The PROS of UR crank pullies and the track
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The PROS of UR crank pullies and the track
When I ran my car before the crank pulley I would always hit 4th right at the end of the track then immediately cross the line. Now wit the crank pulley I hit 4th gear and still have some distance before I cross the line. Here is the CON in this: our cars make all our power under vtec, therefore when running we have to redline each each so that when we hit the next gear we jump back into vtec. The problem I having thats killing my 1/4 time and preventing me from breaking into 13s is that the car is pulling quick and going through the gears quicker hitting vtec from 1st to 3rd but now that the crank pulley is making the car hit 4th sooner than it did wit the stock pulley, its hitting 4th but at a lower RPM which is actually slowing the car down at the end because its not running in Vtec. I know how to drive and run my car so is no issue of human performance . I pull consistant 2.0-2.2 60fts and top MPHs wit this issue is 99MPH. I think to solve this issue I need to get an Apexi Neo and and get a dyno tune on the car so i can move vtec in a little sooner and get the air and fuel settings adjusted for the new mods because the Stock ECU doesnt really feel like its running as strong at times.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
#2
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making your car hit vtec sooner, I dont believe will help make more power, just help you trash your engine faster
I could be way off on that, but from past experience on vtec controllers the only thing noticeable was the vtec sound.
plus a vtec controller is going to void any warranty you may still have on the vehicle.
I could be way off on that, but from past experience on vtec controllers the only thing noticeable was the vtec sound.
plus a vtec controller is going to void any warranty you may still have on the vehicle.
#4
Three Wheelin'
No, it is reving up to higher rpm's FASTER with the pulley because of it's lighter weight. This should give benefits of more power, sooner. Third is used up sooner now because the engine is spinning more freely. Everyone else has noticed this.
#5
Blown is Best
If you're redlining at the same RPM with and without the pulley, you should still be at the same RPM in the next gear on the upshift with or without the pulley. This is more a function of gear ratio. If you hit 4th sooner down the track, I would think your trap speed would be higher but you're saying it's not?
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Originally Posted by Allout
If you're redlining at the same RPM with and without the pulley, you should still be at the same RPM in the next gear on the upshift with or without the pulley. This is more a function of gear ratio. If you hit 4th sooner down the track, I would think your trap speed would be higher but you're saying it's not?
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Originally Posted by Zippee
I don't understand how changing the pully will change the 3-4 shift point.
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#8
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by CLS6SpeedNupe
The mistake I made was installing the intake, header and crank pulley all in one day. Because of that I dont have anything to compare to but the stock time. The way I am looking at it now is that the stock ecu is tuned to run the car strong wit the stock parts, and now that i have added parts that are increasing air flow and making the car quicker on the rpms..the stock computer can no longer run the the car strong enough to compensate and perform at its best wit the new mods. I really wish I waited to slap the crank pulley on after I ran the car wit the intake and header but since i had all the parts I just went ahead and let the shop do it all in one day. Im sure my air fuel ratio is jacked up. Im just gonna get a Neo and fuel pressure regulator and get it dyno tuned.
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Originally Posted by noodle
you need to do something if your times arent getting better
#11
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the only way of going through the gears faster is by putting down more power...i do understand exactly what ur saying...when i went 13.79 at 101 i tried to tell someone that with just 25 more hp i could make 40-50 more in the 1/4 cause now ill be at 6800 rpm and crossing the line instead of 6300...anyway dont lower the vtec point figure out away to raise redline that car will turn 7700 no prob
#12
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Need someone to contact at Acura. Find out if the engine can safely handle a higher redline. Many cars have a redline set not to protect the engine but to protect the accessories. When I installed UDPs in my SHO (prior to removing them and installing the supercharger) it allowed you to raise the redline from 7200RPMs to 8000RPMs (the engine itself can handle 10k RPMs). You could always pull the pulleys off and see what you can do with stock ones. You may find that the issue isn't the stock pulleys at all. I don't think that a new ECU is needed with the few mods you have. The factory unit should be able to adjust to those with little issue.
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Originally Posted by TheWeez
Need someone to contact at Acura. Find out if the engine can safely handle a higher redline. Many cars have a redline set not to protect the engine but to protect the accessories. When I installed UDPs in my SHO (prior to removing them and installing the supercharger) it allowed you to raise the redline from 7200RPMs to 8000RPMs (the engine itself can handle 10k RPMs). You could always pull the pulleys off and see what you can do with stock ones. You may find that the issue isn't the stock pulleys at all. I don't think that a new ECU is needed with the few mods you have. The factory unit should be able to adjust to those with little issue.
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Originally Posted by CLS6SpeedNupe
what was your set up when you went 13.7?
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Originally Posted by typeR
cant remeber exactly but below is the set up for 13.30 ...btw to the other person talking about could the other accessories handle the additional rpms...id say with the UD pulley 7700 is bout the same is 71 on the stock crank
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You can do the UIM P/P on your own pretty easily since its easy to remove.
The Neo is pretty good, just need to find something that will raise your redline or actually your fuel cut off, i've thought about the HKS fule cut defencer but never persued it however.
By the way typeR I like how you use the acronym p$p for port and polsih Would you happen to have your timeslip on hand for me to see? I wanted to compare some stuff.
The Neo is pretty good, just need to find something that will raise your redline or actually your fuel cut off, i've thought about the HKS fule cut defencer but never persued it however.
By the way typeR I like how you use the acronym p$p for port and polsih Would you happen to have your timeslip on hand for me to see? I wanted to compare some stuff.
#18
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Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
You can do the UIM P/P on your own pretty easily since its easy to remove.
The Neo is pretty good, just need to find something that will raise your redline or actually your fuel cut off, i've thought about the HKS fule cut defencer but never persued it however.
By the way typeR I like how you use the acronym p$p for port and polsih Would you happen to have your timeslip on hand for me to see? I wanted to compare some stuff.
The Neo is pretty good, just need to find something that will raise your redline or actually your fuel cut off, i've thought about the HKS fule cut defencer but never persued it however.
By the way typeR I like how you use the acronym p$p for port and polsih Would you happen to have your timeslip on hand for me to see? I wanted to compare some stuff.
http://www.dragtimes.com/2001-Acura-...ures-7259.html
#19
COME AT ME BRO!
I have a uni chip I would be willing to part with.. I got it from Mr.steve when he S/ced his first cl. Its tuned for headers, cai, and crank... shoot me a pm if interested..
#20
TQ > MPG
Like stated already raise the fuel cut rpm, dont move VTEC lower.
You are making more power, thats why its hitting 4th sooner, the UR pulley doesnt have any affect on the rpm point at the end of the track anymore than the headers do. You are accelerating faster the entire way down the track versus stock, therefore at the same distance you will be going faster, thats why you are running out of 3rd earlier.
You could also try to run a slightly taller or shorter tire to compensate for the added power. That way either way it would either get you into 4th faster, or allow you to ride out 3rd longer. The taller tire would launch better, also.
In drag racing you always want to end at the top of whatever gear you can, shifting at the last minute almost always kills alot of ET and mph.
You are making more power, thats why its hitting 4th sooner, the UR pulley doesnt have any affect on the rpm point at the end of the track anymore than the headers do. You are accelerating faster the entire way down the track versus stock, therefore at the same distance you will be going faster, thats why you are running out of 3rd earlier.
You could also try to run a slightly taller or shorter tire to compensate for the added power. That way either way it would either get you into 4th faster, or allow you to ride out 3rd longer. The taller tire would launch better, also.
In drag racing you always want to end at the top of whatever gear you can, shifting at the last minute almost always kills alot of ET and mph.
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No piggy-back system available for our cars will increase the fuel cut off. So you're stuck at 7,200 RPM.
You aren't running lean. The cars runs pretty rich actually. When I tuned the car I had the mixture leaned out considerably to pick up a little bit more power (but not much).
Don't waste your money on a tune or a fuel pressure regulator. I'm not sure why you'd want a regulator. It's not going to do anything at all on your car.
You should still pull pretty hard in 4th gear. When is the next time you are going to the track. I may just come out and run you side by side. What is your ET?
You aren't running lean. The cars runs pretty rich actually. When I tuned the car I had the mixture leaned out considerably to pick up a little bit more power (but not much).
Don't waste your money on a tune or a fuel pressure regulator. I'm not sure why you'd want a regulator. It's not going to do anything at all on your car.
You should still pull pretty hard in 4th gear. When is the next time you are going to the track. I may just come out and run you side by side. What is your ET?
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Also, I don't know about you, but when I shift at redline from 3rd to 4th I start 4th around 5,200 rpm which is the same as 3rd
http://photos.imageevent.com/mrsteve...51009_0002.AVI
http://photos.imageevent.com/mrsteve...51009_0002.AVI
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
No piggy-back system available for our cars will increase the fuel cut off. So you're stuck at 7,200 RPM.
You aren't running lean. The cars runs pretty rich actually. When I tuned the car I had the mixture leaned out considerably to pick up a little bit more power (but not much).
Don't waste your money on a tune or a fuel pressure regulator. I'm not sure why you'd want a regulator. It's not going to do anything at all on your car.
You should still pull pretty hard in 4th gear. When is the next time you are going to the track. I may just come out and run you side by side. What is your ET?
You aren't running lean. The cars runs pretty rich actually. When I tuned the car I had the mixture leaned out considerably to pick up a little bit more power (but not much).
Don't waste your money on a tune or a fuel pressure regulator. I'm not sure why you'd want a regulator. It's not going to do anything at all on your car.
You should still pull pretty hard in 4th gear. When is the next time you are going to the track. I may just come out and run you side by side. What is your ET?
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Originally Posted by CLS6SpeedNupe
What do you suggest I do Mr. Steve? more mods right? My best ETs 14.1 and 14.2. I will just stracth the Apexi Neo and tuning and just go for the new ported and polished manifold then some lighter wheels. I wanted to atleast be able to pull a 13.7 N/A before I play wit the laughing gas. Laughing Gas, I just remembered that name...its what these old guys told me what they call Nitrous. As far as the next time I go to the track I cant say at the moment, I need to have a reason to go meaning a new something that I think might help me run better
A reason to go is practice. I can't tell you how many trips I took down the 1/4 mile in my first CL-S. Probably a hundred. Most of which with the same N/A mods. Then maybe a dozen or so with the blower.
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
14.1 and 14.2 are pretty good times for the car though.
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Originally Posted by CLS6SpeedNupe
Yep same exact thing mines is doing. What RPM does Vtec kick in at again?
Well if that's the exact thing your car is doing I don't know why you are complaining.
A redline shift to 3rd drops the RPMs to 5,200. A redline shift to 4th drops the RPMs to 5,200.
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Well if that's the exact thing your car is doing I don't know why you are complaining.
A redline shift to 3rd drops the RPMs to 5,200. A redline shift to 4th drops the RPMs to 5,200.
A redline shift to 3rd drops the RPMs to 5,200. A redline shift to 4th drops the RPMs to 5,200.
#33
TQ > MPG
Its not that hard to figure out without redlining it in 3rd. Just take the car to 97mph (top of 3rd), put it in 4th and then accelerate to your trap speed.
My very educated guess is that it will be 97mph, thats what ALL of the calculators say.
I still say either go with a 25" or 26" tire for the track, it will help either way.
My very educated guess is that it will be 97mph, thats what ALL of the calculators say.
I still say either go with a 25" or 26" tire for the track, it will help either way.
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Originally Posted by Joe5.0
Its not that hard to figure out without redlining it in 3rd. Just take the car to 97mph (top of 3rd), put it in 4th and then accelerate to your trap speed.
My very educated guess is that it will be 97mph, thats what ALL of the calculators say.
I still say either go with a 25" or 26" tire for the track, it will help either way.
My very educated guess is that it will be 97mph, thats what ALL of the calculators say.
I still say either go with a 25" or 26" tire for the track, it will help either way.
#36
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Originally Posted by CLS6SpeedNupe
im running yokahama AS430s, how do i know what size they are?
#37
Originally Posted by CLS6SpeedNupe
When I ran my car before the crank pulley I would always hit 4th right at the end of the track then immediately cross the line. Now wit the crank pulley I hit 4th gear and still have some distance before I cross the line. Here is the CON in this: our cars make all our power under vtec, therefore when running we have to redline each each so that when we hit the next gear we jump back into vtec. The problem I having thats killing my 1/4 time and preventing me from breaking into 13s is that the car is pulling quick and going through the gears quicker hitting vtec from 1st to 3rd but now that the crank pulley is making the car hit 4th sooner than it did wit the stock pulley, its hitting 4th but at a lower RPM which is actually slowing the car down at the end because its not running in Vtec. I know how to drive and run my car so is no issue of human performance . I pull consistant 2.0-2.2 60fts and top MPHs wit this issue is 99MPH. I think to solve this issue I need to get an Apexi Neo and and get a dyno tune on the car so i can move vtec in a little sooner and get the air and fuel settings adjusted for the new mods because the Stock ECU doesnt really feel like its running as strong at times.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
#38
you know sometimes theres just days that your car pulls better times than others. your not gonna be able predict your times every time at the track. just better luck next track day
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I think I am also going to call and set up a dyno apointment for next saturday. it $60 for 3 pulls and I will find out how much power im putting down wit my mods, then see the air/fuel is running straight and if their any dips in the power band. I think that will help before I go spend 200 something bucks on a Neo