DDT-TypeS

I'm in need of desperate help from anyone who has the same problem as I do. I know some of you will say I'm naggin' about nuthing but I am very close to either selling this car or breaking something if I don't find out what the hell it is.

It's in the back trunk on the driver side. I believe it's the fuel line tapping against the body of the car? Unfortunately even after removing all plastic side/bottom trunk moldings leaving only the bare metal, the rattle is still present. Nothing is in the trunk--no linings, tools, even spare tire is removed. Just bare metal exposed.

It's not the trunk torsion rods either. Dynmatted and toweled the entire bar. The sound is so distinct and it's coming from the drivers side but I cannot access the fuel line because there's a piece of metal siding welded to the side wall of the trunk--the fuel line is inbetween the metal shield and the side wall.

I tried stuffing towels in there to dampen the rattle. It's just annoying and you can hear it totally because it sounds like something is tapping against the wall of the car (metal part)...and it only happens side to side (going over bumps doesn't make it rattle as much as when the car wobbles side to side).

Anyone, please, anyone know what I'm gripin' about? Thanks in advance!

Black_Pride

I had a similar experience with a car I bought 5 yrs ago. I had this constant noise in the roof panel. After 15 trips to the dealer I FINALLY met somebody who had seen this before, though he didnt provide a solution. sometimes the sheetmetal in certain cars is not flat and there are flex points when it is welded to the car. I dont know if i'm describing it correctly but if you have ever seen a peice of sheetmetal flex you know what i mean when it makes that popping noise. Anyways, I was a candidate for making the car a "lemon" under the lemon law of my state. I didnt go thru with it because i went away to school and my dad sold the car. However, i would recommend going to the dealer and geting this on record as a specific noise and letting them fix it. If they cant, just keep going back there or to different dealers and getting it logged. Also keep all your paperwork and file for a lemon. Who knows, you might get a new car out of it!

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Black_Pride
-2001 CL-"S"pankin New
-BLACK-on-BLACK
-NAVI
-SPOILER
-BACK SEAT WHORE
-SMOKE SCREEN
-OIL SLICK
-REAR FIRING MISSILES
-A "HONK IF YOU THINK I'M JESUS" BUMPER STICKER

"If brains were dangerous, you would be safe!"
www.MrCloseout.net

DDT-TypeS

FAUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I found out after weeks of torture what and where the problem is.

I think this may be the last Acura I will ever buy. The quality on this car is not up to $30K+ standards.

The problem was the MUFFLER and the rear rubber hanger. Seems like these mufflers and their welded hanging joints rusts so quick. Well, I shook the muffler by hand left and right and the freakin' rattle/squeaking noise was present. I used a worm screw bracket and I clamped down the rear rubber hanger (forcing the chassis muffler hanging joint to compress closer to the muffler hanging joint).

Went out for the 50th test drive and the rattle/sqeak is GONE! Finally, peace and quiet.

I also took apart the dash/glove compartment and I found out that a bundle of coiled wire came off the mounting block which prevents that bundle from wiggling against the plastics all around. well, it did take care of one rattle coming from the glove box...but near the center of the dash is where the other "harsh rattle" is present when going over big bumps.

Damn, I need to buy a service manual.