amandamarie

So, I have a 03 cl type s, manual 6sp, I bought it less than a year ago, didn't get to drive it until Feb, so it sat for 7 months. I bought it from a dealer in Puyallup, WA. Clearly no one had taken care of this car in a while. Missing a bumper, trashed interior, but she fired right up and could get, so I got her. Right price as well.
Anyways, I paid for the car, went back to the dealer next day to pick it up and it wouldn't start. Best guess was the fuel relay or pump. I had to move it a couple of times in that 7 months so it was always kind of a guess if it was gonna start, and I definitely pumped that gas pedal alot. So, in Feb, first thing I did was the fuel pump, after that, fired right up, no starting problems since. Changed the spark plugs and oil, got an alignment, 2 new front tires, and drove from Seattle to San Diego. I'm not sure how long it had the rough idle, because when I changed the spark plugs it was such an improvement I was more in tune with that improvement than the car.

So about half way down Cali I noticed it wasn't running so hot and then the CEL came on, took it to a shop, misfire code, got #3, changed the coil, and all was well again. I got to San Diego, a week later it is spitting oil, took it to the shop and they said the timing was off and bad oil pump. They did everything for the timing plus the pump, which was not cheap..

Since then I have:
-New air filter
-Added cleaner to the tank twice, then once with SeaFoam
-All new coils
-PCV valve
-Cleaned the intake
-EGR valve

My next idea was O2 sensor, but I couldn't get them off, I just stripped one of them and had to take it to the shop, and then it also struck me that I needed a smog test to register my car down here. There was a pending P0170 code, and he did manage to get it to pass smog. The code was gone when I picked it up (I hadn't seen the CEL since Feb), but he said the code would come back eventually. He said the map sensor was reading 1.3v when it should be reading no higher than 1v., which indicated to him the valves need to be changed, and he said he could tell from the way it starts up as well that it is the valves. I'd say I have intermediate knowledge, but after doing a lot of reading and watching it's pretty clear that code could mean damn near a lot of things. And I have read a few posts where the symptoms were similar to mine, 2 with no conclusion, and 1 was just bad gas. But if anyone can make sense or relation to Fuel Pump>Misfire>Timing and Oil Pump>Rough Idle>Gas Smell and votes valves or has any other ideas of how any of these things are or are not related, please and f-n thank you.

So as it is now, rough idle, smell of gas is pretty strong upon start up, start up is not instant, couple of cranks then she fires right up, and I am getting broke.

amandamarie

Ahhhh, and I forgot to mention they did change both O2 sensors.

BigTurkey

iTrader: (1)

This forum is fairly inactive so it might be awhile until someone can offer some good advice. Have you tried posting this to any of the Facebook groups? There are a couple J series and 2g CL/TL specific ones with many knowledgeable and helpful people that might be able to help you more quickly.

amandamarie

I haven't. Thank you for that.

amandamarie

Any one in particular you would suggest?

Thefireball

It could definitely be a couple things. You said it's spitting oil. Are you saying you have an oil leak? If it got to low, you could be in a similar position that I was in. One of my bearings over heated due to low oil and eventually broke and caused the piston to slam into a valve and spark plugs. I had a random cylinder misfire for about 2 weeks before she died. Figuring that out right now.
It also sounds like an issue I had last year, where my engine was out of time. I'm going to guess the timing is still off and they didn't do it right. I'd say to check it, but trying to look at that rear cam gear is really difficult unless you can get the cover off.

Tl;dr - My guess is a bearing in one of the rods is going out, or the timing is still off.

Thefireball

Oh, and how does your exhaust sound? That's a good way to tell if your timing is still off. My car sounded like a Harley motorcycle.

amandamarie

It's not leaking oil anymore. Not since they did the timing. And even when it was leaking oil I kept a close eye on it to make sure it didn't get to low. I haven't NOTICED my exhaust, but I'll listen next time I start it.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Just to clarify, when the mechanic stated that the valves '...need to be changed', did it sound like he meant that they need to be 'adjusted'?
Or did it sound like he meant that the heads needed to be pulled and the valves changed in the heads?

amandamarie

He said the valves in Hondas get tight and I needed new ones.

Thefireball

Well that just sounds like an assumption to milk more money from you. But I'm not a mechanic, nor a professional. So take my advice with a train of salt.
In fact, I just pulled my valve covers off. Besides the bent valve with a broken stem, all of my rockers/valves feel loose and need to be tightened; the opposite of what your mechanic said.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Interesting.
From personal experience, I had to have the #1 cylinder (rear head) bent valves replaced (CL-S6), under warranty back in 2003-4, due to 'valve float' caused by a defective timing belt tensioner. I've adjusted them twice since then and have had no 'tightness' issues where they needed replacement under normal operating conditions.

BTW, how many miles were on your car when purchased less than a year ago?

Acura TL Builder

Find a new mechanic.

amandamarie

186000 when I bought it, now 190000. CEL is now off and exhaust sounds...like exhaust. Quiet. Fine. But I can still put my hand on the engine and just know that isn't quite right.

How long should you go before using another can of SeaFoam in the tank?

Thefireball

I'd say do a can of seafoam after every oil change, if not the second oil change.
I still think it's an internal engine issue, but I'm personally biased.

Acura2g558

Interested in seeing a video of these symptoms. Fuel trim and age make me think fuel supply issue with a bad injector or FPR

amandamarie

F-ing rats. Clearly not the main problem but a problem nonetheless. *sigh*

Thefireball

I've seen people on here from older threads saying that rats chew through the knock sensor. I don't believe. Why would a rat go into the middle of the engine block and chew on only that wire, and not the rest? It makes no sense. What is it about that one wire that attracts these supposed rats.. maybe I should start doing food reviews again and giving it a taste test..
On another note, I'm going through misfiring issues myself, and discovered I had bent two of my exhaust valves. But that was completely my fault. I'll be making a thread about that soon.
I'm no expert on this matter, but your numbers for the leak down and compression tests are all over the place. I'm sure some one else can speak more on that matter than me, but you might have bad valves.

Acura TL Builder

That knock sensor is the only wire coming out from between the heads. It is a perfect nesting place for rodents. So they chew that one. If ouy look closly at the knock sensor wire, you will see pictures of little mice on the outer plastic.