New Tranny fluid = New car!
03-17-2009, 12:55 PM
#1
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
Thread Starter
New Tranny fluid = New car!
I know this is long so my Cliffnotes are underlined
I just got back from getting my Tranny flushed out and replaced with new fluid. This goes back to when my car was really jerky through the gears, and I thought it was the cold winter weather. I soon checked my Tranny Fluid level dipstick when the tranny started making a clicking noise. My tranny fluid was indeed low.
Also, I checked the owners manual. the ONLY time you should change out your entire Tranny fluid is at 90,000miles as the owners manual says. I just hit 88,500 so I though it was time.
For those that don't know, when you flush the tranny, only 3 quarts of about 7.5 quarts comes out. It is flushed 3x for example: You need to flush it, then drive through the gears to mix new and old oil, flush it again, drive through gears, flush again, and its done...or something of that effect. The garage knew just what to do. They also used the Acura synthetic Fluid, so I was good to go!
IM trying to be as informative as possible since I searched before I went and didn't find much here. I ended up paying $125.00 which i think is a steal compared to going to the Acura Dealer!!
And now, my car is SO smooth, it feels amazing!! I was very surprised, and this was worth every penny as I thought I would need a new tranny soon.
and so I'll leave you guys with this note: Tranny fluid should not be messed with!! Follow the Acura CL owner's manual which states to ONLY change the fluid every 90,000 miles and stay close to that. A moderator here added 3 quarts of tranny fluid every time he changed the engine oil!!! That is WAY too much and the tranny doesn't like that at all proven when he said that particular tranny lasted the least of all his trannies!! Adding fluid very often does NOT do anything and in fact makes things worse...
so anyone having tranny issues like i though i was should get the fluid changed out if they are close to 90,000 miles and you will be riding smooth! Also to check to see if you are low on fluid: Park on level ground [put it in nuetral to see if you are on flat ground], check yellow dipstick [very low and to the right when facing the engine bay], make sure car is ON when doing this, wipe off oil, put back in, take out again and see where your fluid level is. <--im sure we all know how to do that but what the hell. lol
hope this helps anyone w/ tranny problems as that is what I tried to do here.
I just got back from getting my Tranny flushed out and replaced with new fluid. This goes back to when my car was really jerky through the gears, and I thought it was the cold winter weather. I soon checked my Tranny Fluid level dipstick when the tranny started making a clicking noise. My tranny fluid was indeed low.
Also, I checked the owners manual. the ONLY time you should change out your entire Tranny fluid is at 90,000miles as the owners manual says. I just hit 88,500 so I though it was time.
For those that don't know, when you flush the tranny, only 3 quarts of about 7.5 quarts comes out. It is flushed 3x for example: You need to flush it, then drive through the gears to mix new and old oil, flush it again, drive through gears, flush again, and its done...or something of that effect. The garage knew just what to do. They also used the Acura synthetic Fluid, so I was good to go!
IM trying to be as informative as possible since I searched before I went and didn't find much here. I ended up paying $125.00 which i think is a steal compared to going to the Acura Dealer!!
And now, my car is SO smooth, it feels amazing!! I was very surprised, and this was worth every penny as I thought I would need a new tranny soon.
and so I'll leave you guys with this note: Tranny fluid should not be messed with!! Follow the Acura CL owner's manual which states to ONLY change the fluid every 90,000 miles and stay close to that. A moderator here added 3 quarts of tranny fluid every time he changed the engine oil!!! That is WAY too much and the tranny doesn't like that at all proven when he said that particular tranny lasted the least of all his trannies!! Adding fluid very often does NOT do anything and in fact makes things worse...
so anyone having tranny issues like i though i was should get the fluid changed out if they are close to 90,000 miles and you will be riding smooth! Also to check to see if you are low on fluid: Park on level ground [put it in nuetral to see if you are on flat ground], check yellow dipstick [very low and to the right when facing the engine bay], make sure car is ON when doing this, wipe off oil, put back in, take out again and see where your fluid level is. <--im sure we all know how to do that but what the hell. lol
hope this helps anyone w/ tranny problems as that is what I tried to do here.
Last edited by '01White3.2CL; 03-17-2009 at 12:58 PM.
03-17-2009, 02:47 PM
#7
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
Thread Starter
ok so I just assumed that the Acura dealer would be more and IM the one that probably got ripped off! lol o well, but like i said worth every penny.
Not by myself, I went to a mechanic down my street. and Idk, the guy said synthetic fluid, blah, blah...he said he used the best stuff for Hondas...
and gnuts, just look in your owners manual? you do have one right?
and Anthracitebeast just check your fluid level sometime soon. Mine was low and added to the roughness, now its very smooth, i love it.
Not by myself, I went to a mechanic down my street. and Idk, the guy said synthetic fluid, blah, blah...he said he used the best stuff for Hondas...
and gnuts, just look in your owners manual? you do have one right?
and Anthracitebeast just check your fluid level sometime soon. Mine was low and added to the roughness, now its very smooth, i love it.
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03-17-2009, 04:13 PM
#8
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
Thread Starter
Oh and FYI, I am trying to do 1,000 break-in miles of slow, smooth driving to get my new fluid and my tranny to bond and become friends.
I set one Odometer reading to zero...or I could just do 3 fill ups at the gas station x ~333miles each...
I set one Odometer reading to zero...or I could just do 3 fill ups at the gas station x ~333miles each...
03-17-2009, 04:45 PM
#9
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ok so I just assumed that the Acura dealer would be more and IM the one that probably got ripped off! lol o well, but like i said worth every penny.
Not by myself, I went to a mechanic down my street. and Idk, the guy said synthetic fluid, blah, blah...he said he used the best stuff for Hondas...
and gnuts, just look in your owners manual? you do have one right?
and Anthracitebeast just check your fluid level sometime soon. Mine was low and added to the roughness, now its very smooth, i love it.
Not by myself, I went to a mechanic down my street. and Idk, the guy said synthetic fluid, blah, blah...he said he used the best stuff for Hondas...
and gnuts, just look in your owners manual? you do have one right?
and Anthracitebeast just check your fluid level sometime soon. Mine was low and added to the roughness, now its very smooth, i love it.
i dont think the previous owner ever did it
03-17-2009, 05:28 PM
#10
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The Acura DLR charged me $89.00 to flush 3 and add 3 for 2001 CL-s
and the charged me $69.00 to flush 3 and add 3 for my girls 2005 TL.
I dont know why but didnt bother asking cuz i told my girl it was gonna be $90! I would change 3 quarts every 20-30k like I do!
I would also do it myself, I did mine and my girls since that time I let ACURA do and it was easier then a oil change! All it costed was $21 for the fluid and $3 for 2 crush washers!
and the charged me $69.00 to flush 3 and add 3 for my girls 2005 TL.
I dont know why but didnt bother asking cuz i told my girl it was gonna be $90! I would change 3 quarts every 20-30k like I do!
I would also do it myself, I did mine and my girls since that time I let ACURA do and it was easier then a oil change! All it costed was $21 for the fluid and $3 for 2 crush washers!
03-17-2009, 05:58 PM
#11
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
Thread Starter
and im not sure if it is equivalent then, but would changing 3 quarts every 30k be the same as flushing out 3 quarts 3 consecutive times all on one day at 90k?? since by your 3rd flush [each one at every 30k], you would then have close to 90k.
either way w/e works, but dont change it more than that.
Last edited by '01White3.2CL; 03-17-2009 at 06:01 PM.
03-17-2009, 06:05 PM
#12
oh gosh.
we have glass trannies. If you wait 90k to change your fluid, thats too long. I flushed out my system with a 3x3 and im doing a change every 2 years or 30k-ish.
why? cause new fluid is better then old. are you gonna wait another 90k to touch the tranny fluid again?
also, you should have never let the tranny fluid get low. that may have been why it was jerky.
and to the person that mentioned Z1, yes that is true. That is the type of ATF in all honda/acura ATF bottles and the only stuff you should put in there. multi-vehicle ATF can also be used as you can see, it is ok for honda trannies.
if you need to know anymore about the trannies/tranny fluid as me. not to hate on anybody, but you guys havent been on here very long/posted very much.
we have glass trannies. If you wait 90k to change your fluid, thats too long. I flushed out my system with a 3x3 and im doing a change every 2 years or 30k-ish.
why? cause new fluid is better then old. are you gonna wait another 90k to touch the tranny fluid again?
also, you should have never let the tranny fluid get low. that may have been why it was jerky.
and to the person that mentioned Z1, yes that is true. That is the type of ATF in all honda/acura ATF bottles and the only stuff you should put in there. multi-vehicle ATF can also be used as you can see, it is ok for honda trannies.
if you need to know anymore about the trannies/tranny fluid as me. not to hate on anybody, but you guys havent been on here very long/posted very much.
03-17-2009, 06:08 PM
#13
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
Thread Starter
oops, i better go to mechanic school before posting here again.
oh and guys, the Acura owners manual probably goes void as soon as the warranty does.
oops...
anyway changing your tranny fluid constantly is not good at all = fact! and yes, when it goes low, you should definitely change it...like i did.
oh and guys, the Acura owners manual probably goes void as soon as the warranty does.
oops...
anyway changing your tranny fluid constantly is not good at all = fact! and yes, when it goes low, you should definitely change it...like i did.
03-17-2009, 06:14 PM
#14
where did you hear that? changing any fluid at a faster interval has no negative impacts on your car.
and when it goes low, you dont need to change it. it should have never gone low. You should check the levels at least every oil change.
i never went to a technicial school but im guessing, since you said the dealer used synthetic Acura ATF, that you dont know much about ATF, our ATF or our trannies.
and when it goes low, you dont need to change it. it should have never gone low. You should check the levels at least every oil change.
i never went to a technicial school but im guessing, since you said the dealer used synthetic Acura ATF, that you dont know much about ATF, our ATF or our trannies.
03-17-2009, 06:18 PM
#15
Moderator
There's no harm to changing your transmission fluid more often. While it may not be needed, it certainly will not accelerate transmission failure. Contrary to popular belief, changing your fluid will not accelerate transmission failure, even if the fluid was well overdue for a change. I confirmed this with a friend who is a fluid engineer at GM.
In addition, the Honda ATF-Z1 fluid is not synthetic. It is a petroleum based oil with a Honda specific additive package. While they are not Honda approved, there are also multi-vehicle fluids on the market that have been bench and field tested extensively in Honda vehicles by major additive companies (e.g. Lubrizol and Infineum) and have proven to work fine.
Acura recommends the first transmission fluid change at 60k for severe service, then every 30k thereafter. For normal service it's 120k, then every 90k thereafter. For routine maintenance, the service manual recommends draining and refilling the fluid once. If the unit has been contaminated with the wrong fluid, then the owner's manual recommends draining and refilling the unit three times as a "flush" to remove as much of the wrong fluid as possible.
Personally, I service my transmissions at about 60k. I prefer doing a complete fluid change even if it is not required. Draining and refilling three times or performing a line flush (make sure you clean the magnetic plug) doing a good job of changing as much of the fluid as possible.
In addition, the Honda ATF-Z1 fluid is not synthetic. It is a petroleum based oil with a Honda specific additive package. While they are not Honda approved, there are also multi-vehicle fluids on the market that have been bench and field tested extensively in Honda vehicles by major additive companies (e.g. Lubrizol and Infineum) and have proven to work fine.
Acura recommends the first transmission fluid change at 60k for severe service, then every 30k thereafter. For normal service it's 120k, then every 90k thereafter. For routine maintenance, the service manual recommends draining and refilling the fluid once. If the unit has been contaminated with the wrong fluid, then the owner's manual recommends draining and refilling the unit three times as a "flush" to remove as much of the wrong fluid as possible.
Personally, I service my transmissions at about 60k. I prefer doing a complete fluid change even if it is not required. Draining and refilling three times or performing a line flush (make sure you clean the magnetic plug) doing a good job of changing as much of the fluid as possible.
03-17-2009, 06:30 PM
#17
Moderator
03-17-2009, 06:38 PM
#19
just look for multi-vehicle ATF. on the back they should have certifications/recommendations that says what its compatible with. Your looking for Honda ATF-Z1
I know mobil and castrol's import multi-vehicle ATF is good to use.
I know mobil and castrol's import multi-vehicle ATF is good to use.
Last edited by aznboi2424; 03-17-2009 at 06:41 PM.
03-17-2009, 06:45 PM
#20
Moderator
Lubrizol is one of the largest additive producers in the world. The Lubrizol 9680 and 9684 are the two multi-vehicle additives that they sell. They used to have more info about them on the website, but they have since taken the info down, but I still have the files.
Blenders (e.g. Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil, etc) are not going to say who's additive package they are using, so it's impossible to confirm. I do know that Valvoline does work closely with Lubrizol for some of their other products. However, I think it's safe to say that most of these multi-vehicle transmission fluids are probably using an additive package from Lubrizol as Lubrizol is the biggest proponent of this stuff.
These are some multi-vehicle fluids that claim ATF-Z1 compatibility:
Valvoline Maxlife ATF
Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF
Amsoil ATF (confirmed that this one does use a custom additive package from Lubrizol)
Mobil 1 Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF (new formula)
03-17-2009, 06:53 PM
#21
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Awesome thanks for the info Sodaluvr. If I decide to use one of the alternatives. Is it okay for it to mix with honda ATF or should I do a full 3step flush so that it's mostly just the alternative fluid?
03-17-2009, 06:55 PM
#22
Moderator
03-17-2009, 09:24 PM
#24
that new car feel won't last long.......if your trans has problems with shifting, new fluid only hides the problem for a short time.
03-17-2009, 10:34 PM
#25
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
Thread Starter
it never had problems with shifting...it only jerked into second about 1 in 10 times, and made a very slight noise only someone who cares about their car would hear...my Transmission is fine and now, It is smooth as ever!
Thanks for all the info guys, and I do stand corrected. I just wanted to provide a go-to thread on this subject, and thanks to all of the input, I think I succeeded. Thanks again for all info as I am no pro!
Thanks for all the info guys, and I do stand corrected. I just wanted to provide a go-to thread on this subject, and thanks to all of the input, I think I succeeded. Thanks again for all info as I am no pro!
03-18-2009, 12:08 AM
#26
Does anybody's car sound like its taking off throughout every gear? Its the best way I can describe it. also shifting through every gear, does your guys' car dip forward a little then push you back lightly? On my daewoo if you were driving in low rpm's you would not know it was shifting gears, im guessing its because i now have a car with torque? XD
03-18-2009, 01:55 AM
#27
it never had problems with shifting...it only jerked into second about 1 in 10 times, and made a very slight noise only someone who cares about their car would hear...my Transmission is fine and now, It is smooth as ever!
Thanks for all the info guys, and I do stand corrected. I just wanted to provide a go-to thread on this subject, and thanks to all of the input, I think I succeeded. Thanks again for all info as I am no pro!
Thanks for all the info guys, and I do stand corrected. I just wanted to provide a go-to thread on this subject, and thanks to all of the input, I think I succeeded. Thanks again for all info as I am no pro!
s in here and wanted them to get the correct info.
03-18-2009, 09:30 AM
#28
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
Thread Starter
Does anybody's car sound like its taking off throughout every gear? Its the best way I can describe it. also shifting through every gear, does your guys' car dip forward a little then push you back lightly? On my daewoo if you were driving in low rpm's you would not know it was shifting gears, im guessing its because i now have a car with torque? XD
And yes you have more torque than a Daewoo in the lower end, but the CL's J32A1 [CL-P] and J32A2 [CL-S], both w/ VTEC, are set up for Top End. We have "low" amounts of torque under 3000RPM. From there, your Type-S [J32A2 engine] should gain torque as the actuator kicks in @ 3000RPM and then VTEC soon hits at ~4800RPM. W/ the CL-Pers [J32A1 engine], we dont have the actuator but our VTEC comes at 4400RPM, and there is a bit more torque coming at 3000RPM as well. [sorry i forgot the name for that actuator...]
Unfortunately, I don't have the 'torque to RPM' graphs to be more clear, but trust me.
and yes aznboi2424, too many newbs, too little time...lol
03-18-2009, 02:01 PM
#29
if i understand what you are saying correctly, this sounds normal. I've driven a 2001 BMW 325i w/ its tiptronic and, even tho both that car and mine are 2001's, the BMW shifted much faster! W/ that being said, our CL's require a tiny bit more "milliseconds" to shift, and you are probably feeling the car go into nuetral, then engage the gear [which happens very fast, but it can still be felt if paying attention].
And yes you have more torque than a Daewoo in the lower end, but the CL's J32A1 [CL-P] and J32A2 [CL-S], both w/ VTEC, are set up for Top End. We have "low" amounts of torque under 3000RPM. From there, your Type-S [J32A2 engine] should gain torque as the actuator kicks in @ 3000RPM and then VTEC soon hits at ~4800RPM. W/ the CL-Pers [J32A1 engine], we dont have the actuator but our VTEC comes at 4400RPM, and there is a bit more torque coming at 3000RPM as well. [sorry i forgot the name for that actuator...]
Unfortunately, I don't have the 'torque to RPM' graphs to be more clear, but trust me.
and yes aznboi2424, too many newbs, too little time...lol
And yes you have more torque than a Daewoo in the lower end, but the CL's J32A1 [CL-P] and J32A2 [CL-S], both w/ VTEC, are set up for Top End. We have "low" amounts of torque under 3000RPM. From there, your Type-S [J32A2 engine] should gain torque as the actuator kicks in @ 3000RPM and then VTEC soon hits at ~4800RPM. W/ the CL-Pers [J32A1 engine], we dont have the actuator but our VTEC comes at 4400RPM, and there is a bit more torque coming at 3000RPM as well. [sorry i forgot the name for that actuator...]
Unfortunately, I don't have the 'torque to RPM' graphs to be more clear, but trust me.
and yes aznboi2424, too many newbs, too little time...lol
03-18-2009, 03:40 PM
#30
According to Acura, the max torque numbers are as follows:
CL-P (J32A1): 217 lb.-ft. @ 4700 rpm
CL Type S (J32A2): 232 lb.-ft. @ 3500-5500 rpm
Type S guys have a flat torque curve that is helped maintained by the actuator and its engagement point is 3800 RPM not 3000.
also regarding the VTEC engagement points, this was taken from the 2G CL FAQ thread:
Type S (J32A2): 4800 RPM
Type P (J32A1): 5500 RPM
You got it right that the type-s gets VTEC at 4800 RPM but the CL-P gets it at 5500 RPM not 4400 RPM
CL-P (J32A1): 217 lb.-ft. @ 4700 rpm
CL Type S (J32A2): 232 lb.-ft. @ 3500-5500 rpm
Type S guys have a flat torque curve that is helped maintained by the actuator and its engagement point is 3800 RPM not 3000.
also regarding the VTEC engagement points, this was taken from the 2G CL FAQ thread:
Type S (J32A2): 4800 RPM
Type P (J32A1): 5500 RPM
You got it right that the type-s gets VTEC at 4800 RPM but the CL-P gets it at 5500 RPM not 4400 RPM
03-18-2009, 07:19 PM
#31
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
Thread Starter
this has been discussed before, and it IS 4400RPM for J32A1 [I mean i drive my car in tiptronic everyday, I'd know]. No one corrected it before, but it has been verified a couple times in random places...But its really not a big deal, so not worth an argument, so ill just enjoy my 4400RPM VTEC engagment point...
and i got the 3000RPM number for IMRC actuator from a member who was going to tune a S/C'ed 6speed...so either way its in the 3000's. doesn't matter for my Cl-P anyway. again, not worth arguing plus i could be wrong either way.
IMRC is that actuator's name i believe...
and i got the 3000RPM number for IMRC actuator from a member who was going to tune a S/C'ed 6speed...so either way its in the 3000's. doesn't matter for my Cl-P anyway. again, not worth arguing plus i could be wrong either way.
IMRC is that actuator's name i believe...
Last edited by '01White3.2CL; 03-18-2009 at 07:23 PM.
03-20-2009, 01:10 AM
#33
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this has been discussed before, and it IS 4400RPM for J32A1 [I mean i drive my car in tiptronic everyday, I'd know]. No one corrected it before, but it has been verified a couple times in random places...But its really not a big deal, so not worth an argument, so ill just enjoy my 4400RPM VTEC engagment point...
and i got the 3000RPM number for IMRC actuator from a member who was going to tune a S/C'ed 6speed...so either way its in the 3000's. doesn't matter for my Cl-P anyway. again, not worth arguing plus i could be wrong either way.
IMRC is that actuator's name i believe...
and i got the 3000RPM number for IMRC actuator from a member who was going to tune a S/C'ed 6speed...so either way its in the 3000's. doesn't matter for my Cl-P anyway. again, not worth arguing plus i could be wrong either way.
IMRC is that actuator's name i believe...
03-20-2009, 08:56 AM
#34
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Speaking of all this fluid changing, what does everyone think about installing a B&M tranny cooler or comptech tranny cooler? Will cooler ATF help or trannies run longer?
I have 65K on my newest tranny and dont know if its worth putting a cooler in it!
I have 65K on my newest tranny and dont know if its worth putting a cooler in it!
03-24-2009, 10:10 PM
#39
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if you want to treat your tranny right do a flush and buy a tranny cooler. it will love you i did my full flush 7qts with red line high temp atf as recommended by comptech and a comptech tranny cooler and my tranny feels better than i when i first bought it.
03-25-2009, 12:43 AM
#40
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
if i do a change, should i get the transmission kit, like buy the new seal, and filter, but 4 quarts of transmission oil and buy 1 lucas transmission oil?
how much are they? thanks
how much are they? thanks