civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

That would be a bit optimistic for auto tranny...

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I learned this over the weekend. Racing on street vs track is different. It was nerve wracking for me as it was my first time. I felt like a noob saibot who just got fatality'd.

Sonnick

^ Lol. So what did you run man? How was your trap speed?

Sonnick

I got lucky. First time I ran the Accord I pulled a 14.3 @98.9. However, I was at the track prior with my '00 Accord 4 cyl 5spd. Never ran too great in that, 15.8 @89.5 with a best of 2.43 60'. Ugh. Was a low 15 second car. But I drove it to he11 on the street, that's for sure.

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

I got a 13.908@102.65

1foxbody

Just give me some time guys there's no rush lol. I'm going through the process of getting a new job for a very large company so I've been dealing with that the last few weeks. I've also been looking for a new house to rent since my lease will be up July 1st. Once those two things are off my shoulders I'll focus more on my car again. Just give me some time guys. I want my car to be a certain way before I hit the track for the first time with it, since I'm going there to run these e/t's.

Any word on those DSS axles civicdrivr?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

How many passes ? You're 3.6 right? My best run with boltones was about the same but it took me some time get that out of this car. You should be able to run 13.3-13.5. Good luck !

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Per our conversation earlier, the 6G Accord axles are the same, as are 1G CL. Im also trying to find out if they can modify the pass side CV joint on the 7G Accord, since thats the only difference between it and our axles. If they go for it, that will open the doors for this whole thing and hopefully get ~20 people interested.

That was his first pass, full weight, full tank of gas, and slipping clutch. And a 2.3s 60' time.

Sonnick

Foxbody do what you have to do man. Life is more important than our cars (true story).

JCharged, not bad for the first pass. It definitely has low-mid 13s in it. I think you have a bit more in terms of trap speed as well. What are your mods (besides the 3.6)? Sorry Fox, half hijack.

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

I have a thread up on the other forum as well as on the TL side. Don't want to further jack Fox's.

But 3'I/eBayH/2.5'E/P/Spacers

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

BTW, congrats on the new job Fox!

1foxbody

You thread jackers!!!! Haha jk jk it's okay. Thank you guys!

TheWeez

Wait, you've NEVER driven a car at a track? And you expect to hit those times? So you have no idea what it takes to run those kinda times much less in a FWD car? Wow, this just keeps getting better.

1foxbody

When did I ever say I've never driven a car at the track lmao? I can't even count how many times I've been down the track over the years in many different rwd, fwd, and on motorcycles. Shit I've even been down the track on my friends 4 wheeler a few times that's made some cars look stupid lol.

I don't understand why your making it seem like I'm trying to do the impossible by running these et's. Just because you haven't seen in with your own two eyes or proof doesn't mean it can't be done. Sit back and watch me do this .

kingofdust

Congrats on the job Fox, still rooting for you! Nice pulls the other day against the sti.

1foxbody

Thank you I've been trying to get in with this company since January so I'm pretty excited. I'm basically set for life if I decided to stay with them until I retired. Yes those were some good runs lol!

Sonnick

^ Congrats! What do you do?

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

Any updates? Did you figure out anything about the slicks?

1foxbody

I work for mid atlantic coatings a sub contractor for Newport News huntington ingalls industries ship building. I've been going through the very long process of actually working for the shipyard now. They offer better pay and benefits since it's such a large company.

1foxbody

Nothing really as of yet. I decided I'm definitely going to run those weld racing rt-s wheels for my drag setup. As for slicks, now I will have very many options since I'm going to be running a smaller wheel.

The only problem that's going to cause is when I get a rl bbk later down the road. Does anyone know if I can run a 16 inch wheel with the rl bbk? If not I might just stick with my oem brakes for now. Does anyone know if a 15 inch wheel will work with oem brakes? I prefer to use a 15 inch wheel so I can have as much tire as possible which is more forgiving.

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

I have my RL BBK coming in the mail. I will probably install next weekend.

From people that I've seen that have this setup, you have to run at least a 17 inch wheel and a minimum of a 45 offset. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I also have a set of 16x6.5 wheels I can try to test fit over with some spacers.

AnthraciteTypeS

^^JCharged you're correct. I have 3rd gen TL 17's (et 45) and they barely clear the barrel of the wheel let alone the spokes. You need 17's at minimum. And you'll have to cut down the studs that stick out of the adapters. Congrats on the job, MOAR money for car parts!!

1foxbody

I'm not sure what to do as of right now. I don't have a lot of options if I do the rl bbk. I might just stick with the OEM brake setup for now .

03CLSMT

HAHA yeahhh when i see your name is FOXBODY i generally assume you've been down the track a couple times

zeta

iTrader: (1)

You could temporarily opt/upgrade to 2-pot Legend/NSX calipers. They are cheap and readily available. When you have made you drag time goal, then get the RL calipers for a further upgrade. Flip the Legends/NSX caliper on the BM to recoup some of the $$. There are alot more threads relating to Legend/NSX calipers, including the one below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-116/2g-tl-caliper-upgrade-question-815355/

Good Luck.

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

I'm upgrading from the Legend 2 piston calipers. They were great but I couldn't pass up the deal on the RL BBK.

1foxbody

Haha you got that right! Ever since I made up this username it stuck over the years on any forum I've ever joined pretty much.

That's another good option for me too guys. I've read a few threads of people doing that also. Will that solve the continuous warped rotor problem I keep getting?

Also does anyone know if people can run a 15 inch wheel with the OEM and/or legend brake setup? If so that would be great!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I think youll only be able to get 16s over the stock brakes.

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I tried to fit my friends 15x8 +20 over the legend setup yesterday..No go.

He had a 5 lug converted type R setup that's how I was able to try out to see if his 15s would work.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Ever thought about chopping up up your front aspect's and adding 18" slicks.
Thought about cha the other day when I seen some 18" slicks getting sold in my local craigs

1foxbody

I forgot when I put that weld prostar on my car that's a 15 inch wheel it fit over the OEM brakes. The only problem was the back face of the wheel was touching the caliber since the offset was wrong. I guess it all depends on the design of the wheel.

I'm definitely not messing with my a spec wheels I love them too much just the way they are lol. Plus that would defeat the purpose of me trying to have a tire with the most sidewall possible if I ran a 18 inch slick, if they even make them.

Thanks for trying that out Jcharged!

phee

iTrader: (5)

get the legent 2 pots. the rotor warping wont be fixed unless you get some aftermarket rotors. i recommend the EBC power slots. ran them up and down the track dozens of times and mountain runs every month, never had a problem.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Do you want a bigger sidewall to try not to break stuff ?

18's are available
Seam like the perfect size to me.
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/2883324918.html

Sonnick

Don't drag on 18s. If you want to reach your goal, drag with either 15s or 16s. This will shorten the diameter of the tire resulting in shorter gearing. If there's anything we need to help us in the 1/4 mile, it's gearing. Stock our 4th gear ends at ~125. We want to cross the traps where we are making the most power (look at your dyno). Tire size is very important when talking about the 1/4 mile.

Put it this way; I went to the track with CAI/Jpipe and trapped 100.82 on 225/45/17s. I then went back with added PCDs/exhaust/ported intake manifold/pulley and trapped 101.17 on 215/55/17s. The tire diameter increased 1.3in, which hurt my trap speed. I have no doubts on the same 225/45/17 tire I would've trapped in the mid-upper 102s.

Look at the gearing differences in gears 1-4 (only ones we'd use in the 1/4) between the 2 tire sizes I used:

215/55/17

1st - 41
2nd - 65
3rd - 95
4th - 130

225/45/17

1st - 39
2nd - 62
3rd - 90
4th - 123

On my current setup, when I'm between 6400-6500RPM, I'd be at redline (6800) with the shorter 225/45/17 setup. It's not a HUGE difference, but pretty when you're talking a game of tenths and MPH, it's pretty important.

Take the video below for example: I ran an 05 RSX-s and 04 RSX-s. I did the same analysis of gear ratios that I did for my car for theirs and took both tire size and Final Drive into the equation (because they both changed in the 05). The 05 RSX has slightly taller tires, but a higher FD (shorter gears) while the opposite for the 04.

04 RSX:

1st - 44
2nd - 68
3rd - 96
4th - 126

05 RSX:

1st - 42
2nd - 64
3rd - 90
4th - 119

The difference in each gear is almost identical to that of me changing tire sizes. As you will see in the vid, it's a pretty good difference. The Blue one in the vid is an 05 and the camera car the 04. They make almost identical power on the same dyno (228/160 vs 224/160) so the only variables are tire size and final drive since the individual ratios are identical as well. Check the difference.


I hope my long rant made sense and shows the importance of tire size when drag racing. Although not perfect, the video shows that the difference between their tire size and FD is almost identical to that of my tire change, which means you'd be a good deal faster with a shorter tire!!!

Cliffs: Don't drag on 18s. The shorter tire diameter the better (to a degree). You want to cross the line when you are making the most power (check dyno). Don't drag on 18s.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I'm going to the 1/8th track this weekend to get a couple runs.
My wifes boss just got a 70 ls6 chevelle with about 450hp and he wants to run it.
So I'm going to go.
Anyone got any idea's of times I should run with my auto sled ?

1foxbody

What year legend calibers do I need to look for? Are the nsx calibers identical? Yeah I just have some cheapo rotors on there now, they suck. One of the main reasons I never upgraded my rotors is I was afraid even good rotors would still warp.

Yeah the larger sidewall will help on the drivetrain shock and more forgiving traction wise since it can wrinkle. I would like to run at least 16 inch wheels at the largest. I'm just going to hold off on a bbk for now. I'm going to keep my 18 inch tl a spec wheels for daily driving. I gave my OEM wheels to my bro to put on his car.

1foxbody

I guess 13.90's .

fsttyms1

Weight of the wheel AND tire has just to much to do as dia get too small with our relatively short gearing in 1 and 2 with the likely hood of spinning the tires more easily and you will be shifting more often/sooner causing lost time. Having a heavy rim OR tire (not all tires weigh the same) will cause lost time as well.
I ran a 13.4 at 104 with my 255/35/18s last summer with traction being a issue in 1st an the shift to 2nd. I would have never come close to that number with my stock 16s

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

What mods do you have again ?
13.4 in the 1/8 calculates to 8.5

8.5 in the 1/8 is pretty good for a cl.