Lets talk about one big problem that all of us CL-S owners have.
#1
Instructor
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Windsor, ontario
Age: 38
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Lets talk about one big problem that all of us CL-S owners have.
TRACTION
FWD + 260hp + Torque = traction problems.
It is possible to eliminate this problem?
As for myself, i saw a "good" improvement when i changed my 5 engine mounts and when i changed my tires from the stock Yokohama 4 seasons tires to the larger Falken Azenis RT-615 225/45/17.
But still, a FWD will be always a FWD. Is there any more ideas to reduce the problem?
Lets share our ideas to have nicer traction!
larger tires ? 245s? 18x8 mags?
Suspension?
Front sway bar?
Tire choice?
I miss the time when i had my B series EG civic when i was racing from 1st gear to 2nd gear i only hear a VERY slight tire spin.. Now on my CLS6, when i race from 1st gear straight to the 2nd gear at full throttle, my tires spin for like 2-3 seconds! Sometimes i had to modulate the gas pedal to reduce the tire spinning.
But when the pavement is hot, it spins much less...
Any ideas?
FWD + 260hp + Torque = traction problems.
It is possible to eliminate this problem?
As for myself, i saw a "good" improvement when i changed my 5 engine mounts and when i changed my tires from the stock Yokohama 4 seasons tires to the larger Falken Azenis RT-615 225/45/17.
But still, a FWD will be always a FWD. Is there any more ideas to reduce the problem?
Lets share our ideas to have nicer traction!
larger tires ? 245s? 18x8 mags?
Suspension?
Front sway bar?
Tire choice?
I miss the time when i had my B series EG civic when i was racing from 1st gear to 2nd gear i only hear a VERY slight tire spin.. Now on my CLS6, when i race from 1st gear straight to the 2nd gear at full throttle, my tires spin for like 2-3 seconds! Sometimes i had to modulate the gas pedal to reduce the tire spinning.
But when the pavement is hot, it spins much less...
Any ideas?
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#2
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Traction is the name of the game with any vehicle. RWD V8 Cars making real power face the same challenges.
The CL-6 has a helical diff - do you have any idea what a God-send that is for an FF car?
If you're serious about wanting that extra traction, I'd score some 7inch 5 lug steelies from an Accord and throw some drag radials on them. Get them shaved to the appropriate level prior to delivery...Tire Rack can do this for you.
Remember, once you've got traction - now every snick, snap of the clutch is going to send it's shockwave through the drivetrain, and not get as lost - but bite - putting more strain on the clutch, axles, CV-Joints, and the engine.
Adjustable struts in the rear - make em as stiff as you can get em. Don't let the car shift it's weight.
Change your seating position so the gravity isnt throwing you around while driving it. I dropped a tenth of my average times after putting a 5pt harness in the S2000, because I was strapped in as apart of the vehicle and could just shift it and throw it around without trying to compensate for my weight against the vehicle's direction.
The CL-6 has a helical diff - do you have any idea what a God-send that is for an FF car?
If you're serious about wanting that extra traction, I'd score some 7inch 5 lug steelies from an Accord and throw some drag radials on them. Get them shaved to the appropriate level prior to delivery...Tire Rack can do this for you.
Remember, once you've got traction - now every snick, snap of the clutch is going to send it's shockwave through the drivetrain, and not get as lost - but bite - putting more strain on the clutch, axles, CV-Joints, and the engine.
Adjustable struts in the rear - make em as stiff as you can get em. Don't let the car shift it's weight.
Change your seating position so the gravity isnt throwing you around while driving it. I dropped a tenth of my average times after putting a 5pt harness in the S2000, because I was strapped in as apart of the vehicle and could just shift it and throw it around without trying to compensate for my weight against the vehicle's direction.
#3
^ agree with above lower the car using adjustable struts but I don't suggest using Tein springs because they are more loose and designed more for comfortable ride. Front sway bar will reduce body roll in the front...since it is FWD a rear sway won't do much. did you poly fill those motor mounts?
#4
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
In the real world I don't really have any traction problems. I do slip a bit if the road is damp & I gun it. I don't get any wheel hop after my mods & tire/rim upgrades.
Now a track is different. I can't get traction worth a damn. Pulling 2.2 2.3 60 foot's.
I will admit when I had the stiff motor mounts in that helped a great deal. But for a DD car they sucked.
Now a track is different. I can't get traction worth a damn. Pulling 2.2 2.3 60 foot's.
I will admit when I had the stiff motor mounts in that helped a great deal. But for a DD car they sucked.
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#9
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#15
Ttraction bars prevent the wheels driving forward, compressing the strut rod bushings and causing excessive toe in. Anybody thought of replacing the radius/strut rod bushings with harder ones? You could even make a set of traction bars with some tubing and heim joints and fabricating some mounts. http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/adjustable RWD use them to prevent toe changes when braking but same principle.
RWD muscle cars and FWD imports have more in common than people think.
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