legend caliper question
#1
legend caliper question
I was curious if these are the right legend calipers for our car?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...Q24S01006.html
they dont really say whether they are dual piston or not, but they say fit a 95 ls.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...Q24S01006.html
they dont really say whether they are dual piston or not, but they say fit a 95 ls.
#3
Yea they are expensive, i wasnt gonna buy those exact ones. I called and those aren't even the dual piston ones anyway. I called autozone and they can order me the 95 legend gs calipers for 52 each. I'm still not sure if i want to go the legend route or get the front wilwood bbk thats 775$. Money is an issue, and also the wilwood doesn't fit behind stock wheels without a 15mm spacer(I put stock on for winter). I might need new bolts too. That would be pricey. Im gonna price both out and see the cost difference.
#4
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
I was curious if these are the right legend calipers for our car?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...Q24S01006.html
they dont really say whether they are dual piston or not, but they say fit a 95 ls.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...Q24S01006.html
they dont really say whether they are dual piston or not, but they say fit a 95 ls.
#5
Im looking at basically 3 options now.
1. Wilwood 12.6" front bbk($775), rear rotora brake lines($67), ebc red pads(151), and rear rotors(used ebc sport as an example($188)) =$1181
2. Legend Calipers($104), front rotor DBA 4000($237), rear rotor EBC sport($188), EBC red pads($151), goodridge lines($125) =$805
3. Legend Calipers($104), front rotor EBC sport($180), rear rotor EBC sport($188), EBC red pads($151), goodridge lines($125) =$748
Also if i go with the Wilwood i will have to run wheel spacers and maybe get extended studs when I have the stock wheels on for winter. The eibach 15mm spacers are $140 each so thats another $280 there. Will it look stupid with 15mm spacers on front but none on the rear? Also if I get Legend I might pay $50 to get the calipers powdercoated. What do you guys think I should do. I want the wilwood but the extra cost plus dealing with spacers is a turn off. The Legend would probably be enough for my driving style but i don't wanna buy them and regret not getting wilwood in the future.
1. Wilwood 12.6" front bbk($775), rear rotora brake lines($67), ebc red pads(151), and rear rotors(used ebc sport as an example($188)) =$1181
2. Legend Calipers($104), front rotor DBA 4000($237), rear rotor EBC sport($188), EBC red pads($151), goodridge lines($125) =$805
3. Legend Calipers($104), front rotor EBC sport($180), rear rotor EBC sport($188), EBC red pads($151), goodridge lines($125) =$748
Also if i go with the Wilwood i will have to run wheel spacers and maybe get extended studs when I have the stock wheels on for winter. The eibach 15mm spacers are $140 each so thats another $280 there. Will it look stupid with 15mm spacers on front but none on the rear? Also if I get Legend I might pay $50 to get the calipers powdercoated. What do you guys think I should do. I want the wilwood but the extra cost plus dealing with spacers is a turn off. The Legend would probably be enough for my driving style but i don't wanna buy them and regret not getting wilwood in the future.
#6
I originally looked at those legend calipers as well. Those aren't the right ones, and they are def too much! Check your local Nappa, Autozone, or Advanced Auto for referb calipers. Make sure they are the '95 Legend LS because the base model still had the single piston. They will be dual piston and look much diff then the single piston. After my core charge refund they were less than a hundred each (before my discount) at Advanced.
#7
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
'95 Legend LS Calipers - about $75 each
R1 Racing Slotted and drilled rotor/pad package - $300 shipped
Caliper Paint & Clear - $15
Misc supplies for painting (tape, plastic drop cloth) - $20
TOTAL = $485
My biggest reason for the upgrade was all the highway driving i do and warping rotors like it was my job. I've had these on for months and have about 20K on 'em with perfect results! Perfect wear on pads and rotors, no cracking or anything. Stops like a beast, and they are smooth, quiet, and strong in the pedal. Couldn't be happier with the results.
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#9
As long as they are the '95 Legend GS, and he says they are dual, then your good. Its just that year from the Legend that happen to bolt right up to our stock brackets. No modding needed. This is my setup:
'95 Legend LS Calipers - about $75 each
R1 Racing Slotted and drilled rotor/pad package - $300 shipped
Caliper Paint & Clear - $15
Misc supplies for painting (tape, plastic drop cloth) - $20
TOTAL = $485
My biggest reason for the upgrade was all the highway driving i do and warping rotors like it was my job. I've had these on for months and have about 20K on 'em with perfect results! Perfect wear on pads and rotors, no cracking or anything. Stops like a beast, and they are smooth, quiet, and strong in the pedal. Couldn't be happier with the results.
'95 Legend LS Calipers - about $75 each
R1 Racing Slotted and drilled rotor/pad package - $300 shipped
Caliper Paint & Clear - $15
Misc supplies for painting (tape, plastic drop cloth) - $20
TOTAL = $485
My biggest reason for the upgrade was all the highway driving i do and warping rotors like it was my job. I've had these on for months and have about 20K on 'em with perfect results! Perfect wear on pads and rotors, no cracking or anything. Stops like a beast, and they are smooth, quiet, and strong in the pedal. Couldn't be happier with the results.
#11
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (8)
I must be really easy on the brakes cause after 88k miles i've never warped or replaced my rotors. I lik driving aggresively, its just that I usually wait for open roads to go fast where i wont have to brake hard. I still wanna upgrade my brakes for performance and cosmetic reasons tho. I am gonna put new wheels on in spring and all the rust behind the wheel is a turn off. i will drive more agressively once i put all my mods on also. On a side note, after driving a car with a brembo big brake kit 6 piston calipers the cl brakes really seem like garbage.
#12
Whats up with RDX owners?
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I have a set of Racing Brake slotted rotors with about 25k on them. No warpage.
#15
lowrd on tein CS biatch
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HOLY SHIT!! so i CAN change the brakes to dual piston, and leave the pads and rotors!!! woohoooo!
this shall be my next mod! after I find a reasonable price on the calipers FUCKING SWWWEEEET.
HOW much BETTER does the car brake after adding the dual piston calipers?
this shall be my next mod! after I find a reasonable price on the calipers FUCKING SWWWEEEET.
HOW much BETTER does the car brake after adding the dual piston calipers?
#16
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
I must be really easy on the brakes cause after 88k miles i've never warped or replaced my rotors. I lik driving aggresively, its just that I usually wait for open roads to go fast where i wont have to brake hard. I still wanna upgrade my brakes for performance and cosmetic reasons tho. I am gonna put new wheels on in spring and all the rust behind the wheel is a turn off. i will drive more agressively once i put all my mods on also. On a side note, after driving a car with a brembo big brake kit 6 piston calipers the cl brakes really seem like garbage.
HOLY SHIT!! so i CAN change the brakes to dual piston, and leave the pads and rotors!!! woohoooo!
this shall be my next mod! after I find a reasonable price on the calipers FUCKING SWWWEEEET.
Yeah its really strait forward. Swap, bleed, bed pads and rotors, enjoy!
HOW much BETTER does the car brake after adding the dual piston calipers?
this shall be my next mod! after I find a reasonable price on the calipers FUCKING SWWWEEEET.
Yeah its really strait forward. Swap, bleed, bed pads and rotors, enjoy!
HOW much BETTER does the car brake after adding the dual piston calipers?
Brian is correct, you can use the stock sized rotors. Unless you resurface the existing i wouldn't recommend using the same ones with the swap. Start fresh, with new rotors and pads.
#17
Ill probably go with the legend calipers over a bbk for now. I can't really justify over 1k on brakes. What is preferred for this install left caliper on right etc or just bleed it upside down. Anyone have suggestions for other good performance pads besides the ebc reds. I thought I heard carbotechs are good.
#18
lowrd on tein CS biatch
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well i just bought top of the line ads from napa. Adaptive one they are called. Front and back. The pads are virtually new, and rotor the same... wear is absolutely PERFECT, which is why i might hold off. But i'd love to do stainless steel brake lines and these calipers.
I will not switch the rotor and pad however if I do go ahead with this mod soon.
But honestly for the times I stop hard the car stops HARD, abs kicks in so fast... one the pads/rotor have heated up a lil. (when it is near zero, between the DBA rotors and high performance pads, it's had to heat them up.. so u gotta be driving for a lil before everything is good to go.) I want to swap lines and front rotors to eliminate this problem, which i firmly believe it would, using the same rotors and pads.
I spent 450 on the front pads and rotors, which are bedded perfectly and not a even the slightest bit warped. So if I change I will keep that stuff I cannot see what the issue would be? can anyone fill me in?
I will not switch the rotor and pad however if I do go ahead with this mod soon.
But honestly for the times I stop hard the car stops HARD, abs kicks in so fast... one the pads/rotor have heated up a lil. (when it is near zero, between the DBA rotors and high performance pads, it's had to heat them up.. so u gotta be driving for a lil before everything is good to go.) I want to swap lines and front rotors to eliminate this problem, which i firmly believe it would, using the same rotors and pads.
I spent 450 on the front pads and rotors, which are bedded perfectly and not a even the slightest bit warped. So if I change I will keep that stuff I cannot see what the issue would be? can anyone fill me in?
#19
OG 3.x^7 rawr
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I'm rocking racing brake slotted rotors, legend calipers, racing brake 500 pads, goodridge lines, with ATE super blue fluid. Love my brakes, and no spacers needed as I swap to my stock wheels in the winter.
#25
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Plenty of people have gotten away with it, they usually don't even open the box, just don't tell them ahead of time
#27
OG 3.x^7 rawr
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Out of all the reman calipers I have gotten on all my cars. I haven't ran into any problems. Almost all the cores are OEM with Nissen stamped on them and when they tear the caliper down to rebuild, its just the piston and gaskets. There really isn't that many moving parts in a caliper. Piston in, Piston out. Just make sure you lube the slides as its common on imports for them to seize.
#34
I just looked up R1 concepts and the first thing i saw was this article about a cracked rotor after 1k miles. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/susp...-2-months.html
I dunno about that brand after reading this. Do you recommend blanks, slotted, or drilled and slotted?
I dunno about that brand after reading this. Do you recommend blanks, slotted, or drilled and slotted?
#35
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
i have the db 4000xs... when u get them in ur hand u'll see the quality.
http://www.dba.com.au/2006/PDF_CATAL...e_2009%201.pdf
check them out
http://www.dba.com.au/2006/PDF_CATAL...e_2009%201.pdf
check them out
#36
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
I just looked up R1 concepts and the first thing i saw was this article about a cracked rotor after 1k miles. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/susp...-2-months.html
I dunno about that brand after reading this. Do you recommend blanks, slotted, or drilled and slotted?
I dunno about that brand after reading this. Do you recommend blanks, slotted, or drilled and slotted?
#37
i have the db 4000xs... when u get them in ur hand u'll see the quality.
http://www.dba.com.au/2006/PDF_CATAL...e_2009%201.pdf
check them out
http://www.dba.com.au/2006/PDF_CATAL...e_2009%201.pdf
check them out
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-28-2010 at 12:08 PM.
#38
Whats up with RDX owners?
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I just looked up R1 concepts and the first thing i saw was this article about a cracked rotor after 1k miles. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/susp...-2-months.html
I dunno about that brand after reading this. Do you recommend blanks, slotted, or drilled and slotted?
I dunno about that brand after reading this. Do you recommend blanks, slotted, or drilled and slotted?
#39
OG 3.x^7 rawr
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yep, drilled = wait for it to crack.
Drilled rotors just are not need these days with its technology behind the pad compounds. Back in the day, there would be gas build up from braking at the track which would create a slick contact with the rotor. At that time, companies created drilling the rotors to release the gases. IMHO, drilled rotors are just a waste now besides the bling factor. Slotted rotors are going to cut into the pads to provide fresh contact every time. To much? just get some brembo blanks.
Drilled rotors just are not need these days with its technology behind the pad compounds. Back in the day, there would be gas build up from braking at the track which would create a slick contact with the rotor. At that time, companies created drilling the rotors to release the gases. IMHO, drilled rotors are just a waste now besides the bling factor. Slotted rotors are going to cut into the pads to provide fresh contact every time. To much? just get some brembo blanks.
#40
Whats up with RDX owners?
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