Just made a horrible discovery!

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Old 05-31-2006, 12:30 AM
  #41  
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i got you

yea. call this place..
PRO SPEED - (323) 564-8000

if not reasonable.. call Lopez Motorsports - (562) 904-1145
most likely PRO SPEED will have the better price.
Old 05-31-2006, 12:36 AM
  #42  
Honda 3.2
 
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RTizzo.. question. do you know if OBX headers will bolt up to stock exhaust piping? want to keep it kinda quiet and sleeper but still gain power. and also.. do you know where i can find a set of 17x7.5 steel rims?
Old 05-31-2006, 01:03 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by blueglows
Look into Wagner Pads...This is my second set and they are doing pretty good. Also if you do them yourself look for a gell that you can apply to the back of the pads so they dont squeek. It has like a red color and turns into a rubbery compound once it dries. Its pretty good and looks cool too I think...

Oh yea do them yourself...the hardest part is taking off the wheel and putting it back on
Yeah of course i am going to change the pads myself, how much does those wagnar pads go for F/R . i can find them at pepboys right?

Tien2g im sorry i dont have any answers to your questions.
Old 05-31-2006, 01:19 AM
  #44  
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one more last question any ever use Raybestos brake pads?
Old 05-31-2006, 01:20 AM
  #45  
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its cool. since your local.. would you be willing to hit up some spots with me and anoter homie in a TL-s?
Old 05-31-2006, 09:38 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by RTizzo
one more last question any ever use Raybestos brake pads?
I did on my Maxima. Didn't really like them. Get the Wagners. Or EBC Greenstuff. Those are what I had on my CL.
Old 05-31-2006, 12:01 PM
  #47  
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Maybe it's just hte pads?

I take my CLS to the track and last year after 5 laps I went into pits after I noticed fade and my brakes were smoking. I was pretty scared.
I had Racing brake fluid, x drilled rotors and Axxis MM pads.

This year I tried Hawk HP Plus pads and the car definately stops now (enough to lock) so I think pad choice is more important for us because of the wieght and FF layout.

I ended up warping the rotors so I have Powerslots now and I'm going to see if those warp on the next track session.

I would get BBk but that costs $$$ and really the setup I have now gives good stopping power, so I see less value in them.

Then again, this is a small track and I don't even get out of 4th so maybe at higher speeds it's different.

If any of you are worried give HP Plus a try but they really do dust a whole lot though.

I think the CL is a good car, not perfect but I decided I work on it's weaknesses.

Just my

Tony
Old 09-12-2006, 05:53 PM
  #48  
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Warpping problem solved!!!

Originally Posted by xenolite
I take my CLS to the track and last year after 5 laps I went into pits after I noticed fade and my brakes were smoking. I was pretty scared.
I had Racing brake fluid, x drilled rotors and Axxis MM pads.

This year I tried Hawk HP Plus pads and the car definately stops now (enough to lock) so I think pad choice is more important for us because of the wieght and FF layout.

I ended up warping the rotors so I have Powerslots now and I'm going to see if those warp on the next track session.

I would get BBk but that costs $$$ and really the setup I have now gives good stopping power, so I see less value in them.

Then again, this is a small track and I don't even get out of 4th so maybe at higher speeds it's different.

If any of you are worried give HP Plus a try but they really do dust a whole lot though.

I think the CL is a good car, not perfect but I decided I work on it's weaknesses.

Just my

Tony

I had nothing but brake problems ever since I got my 2003 CLS. After many complete brake pads and rotors replacements. Stock warpped within a couple thousand miles. EBC warpped at about the same mileage. Rotoras also warpped. Finally after talking to a lot of people and doing some research, I found this cyro-treated Powerslot rotors. These rotors were only about 160 bucks each. Got them from www.frozenrotors.com. It's a regular slotted Powerslot rotor but frozen at 300 degrees below to make the metal more dense. Since then, no matter what I do, not enough slight warpping. I am using the Axxis Utimate pads and have no problem stopping. But of course, fast driving on a somewhat heavy car like this means pads going out faster than normal. I just bought another set of Axxis Ultimate and some SS brake lines. Gonna change it out this weekend. Never ran with SS lines before, hope it's a good upgrade. I am just concern about bleeding the brakes cause I've never done that before. Any advice? Any one? Please?
Old 09-12-2006, 07:04 PM
  #49  
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whoever said that the car does not handle well is smoking something and I want some.

Rotors are small but that can be fixed but then again I am not constantly stopping from insane speeds...........
Old 09-12-2006, 09:50 PM
  #50  
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You guys speed to much!

So do I!
Old 09-13-2006, 12:45 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs
That sucks. The brakes in the CL are horrible. I would definately look into a BBK. I saw a big difference just swapping the calipers on my CL to the NSX calipers and getting stainless steel brakelines and slotted Rotora rotors. By the way, those NSX calipers are now for sale.... :wink: :wink: :wink:
How much you want for the calipers?
Old 09-13-2006, 02:57 AM
  #52  
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ahahah do you forget what you drive? your not driving a feather weight car exactly.
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