friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i got one of their cats and it does not seem to have the rotten egg smell at all (and no CEL so far; only has been like a month) , be nice if they had included the gaskets with it (front one i used a modifield jeep one, just needed 2 of the holes repunched, the rear is just a universial 3-bolt one) but anyways my biggest grip about it is the fact that they need to move the o2 sensor a little bit foward or rotate it a little cause the wire for it is kinda stretched and snug with connecting to the wiring harness

same thing here with emissions here every 2 years we (colorado) basically have to pass califonia level emissions, and the test they do is the IM240 test on a modifield chassis dyno (bastards won't give you your horsepower), and while they are doing that, the tail pipe has a hose stuffed up it sampling ALL of your exhaust gases
we also have road side testers (you just drive by them accelerating) that if you can get a passing grade from them a couple times you don't have to go to the dyno when your time is due (but you gotta still pay them)

but anyways that is why you keep your stock cat just in case you do fail and have to retest (but hondas run pretty clean anyways and can still pass with a gutted cat [it did on my 94 accord])

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You're bitching about emissions every 2 years?? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

New York requires a yearly inspection. They put the car on a dyno and put a sniffer on the exhaust (pre-OBD cars). For OBD1/2 cars they plug into it and read all the data. If you reset your ecu prior to the test, it will fail because all the values havent been set. It really is a bitch come inspection time.

And why are you complaining about 50 over? Thats 31mph. Thats wreckless driving in VA. IIRC thats 8 points on your license for 5 years. In NY, anything more then 20 over will get you arrested and your car gets impounded.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

and they are actual inspections (like actually checking to make sure you have brakes) in ny not just some sniffing of the tailpipe , and looking to make sure the emissions equipment is their (they just use a mirror too, to look for the cat)

i know in colorado, the moniters (civic's values) don't even have to be all run, cause when i had fixed my seat i had disconnected (everything resets) the battery for the airbag, then reconnected it when i was done, but anyways right after that i went to the dmv to change the title, then the emissions place to get that done , (and it had a fastpass so it did not even have to do the full test) and it passed with flying colors, but the funny thing is i did not even think about the fact i had disconnected the battery before hand and only thought about it after the fact (also i drove maybe 5 miles at the most after reconnecting the battery, and it was in town too, so i know all the moniters had not run yet)

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

easy fix. take the heat shield off the cat and weld it on the test pipe. think outside of the box.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea, I was used to a 30 minute inspection in NY.

I registered the car down here in VA, and I waited over an hour. They had the car on the lift going through everything. I feel more comfortable knowing my car is solid, but its still a bit rediculous.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

And thats exactly what I was going to do

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i would say it would only be like 10-15 minutes at max here if they actually got off their asses and moved, and hired enough people (and got people who actually knew what they were doing, i had to show them were the DLC [OBD-II] connecter was [pretty standard place for every other car being under the dash, since it is a 03]




and yeah about the heatshield you would proably only need the bottom one here at that if it was tucked up high enough

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I have a p2r test pipe that is new in the bm for 75 plus shipping if anyone is interested.

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

Got my P2R test pipe installed and love it! Sound is more aggressive with my mufflers and I think I can feel a slight increase in power. I hope to be able to get a video up soon.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

ur top end will shine

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

noticed that too with my high flow cat, really only helped the top end , but i knew from the start that was where it was really going to shine

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

yea but it would still shine with the high flow cat comparison to the OEM.... no?

I really wanna change my cat... for sound and for top end.

anyone agree it's worth buying it new?

shit I hate the gaskets they use tho... like DAMN

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

Soon as I sell my set of rims I will be picking up a set of headers. I am getting ready to buy a full set of pulleys and a TB spacer. Any of you experts know what kind of power I can be expecting with these add ons plus the ones in my sig?

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

headers are like 20HP minimum! tb spacer isn't physically noticable but it drops intake temps and does make a difference regardless of what u feel (make sure u get the thermal gaskets or else it's not that good) i'd recommend you get the intake manifold gasket also. and do the headers THEN so u can easily access the bolts.
;-). pulleys... GET the option UR pulley... save 200 and use that towards ur headers.

anyone who gets any other pulley(s) is a fool .... NO OFFENCE.

unless u like donating ur money to a friggin name.

HP from pulley, headers and tb spacer intake manifold gasket will be 30ish give or take 5

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

I have the P2R intake gasket sitting on my desk awaiting install. My friend has a full set of UR pulleys that he's selling me for $50. So all I really need is the TB spacer (pending sale) and the gasket for the TB. Yay HP!

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

which headers do u got?

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

I haven't purchased any yet. I'm waiting on the guy to come buy my rims then I will pick up a set. I was thinking of getting a set of Megan race headers with one flex pipe. My friend (the one I'm buying the pulleys from) had them on his TL without a problem. Also, since I am getting a full set of pulleys (3 total) will I need any kind of new belts or will my old ones be fine?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

what kind of crank pulley? underdrive or stock size lightweight pulley?

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

I'm not 100% positive. I know they are lightweight aluminum pulleys, but I'm not sure of the size. I'm going to try and pick them up today, then I'll measure them and post pics.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

it all depends.... if it's a pulley SET. it's been designed for a certain size belt so it should say with their instructions.... or just call the manufacturer and or look it up. I'm sure that's an easy find

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Can anyone explain more on the gaskets needed/ removing heatshield and welding it to the testpipe/high flow cat. Is welding the heatshield all u need to do or is there more to it?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

what heatshied , basically all you have to do is unbolt the factory cat, and bolt on the high flow cat/testpipe (if premade)

and maybe unhook the rear o2's wiring from the body depending on if you need extra length or not



and gaskets you need a new front one and a rear one (each end of the cat)

99CLstag

Welding the heatshield to the high flow cat, now that's a new one I haven't heard before. What kind of gains do you expect to see

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

lol..

wait

are high flow cats illegal in the US?

so are they illegal in canada then too. (ontario more importantly)

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

nope, the manufactures just have to say that it is for off-road/racing purposes, and not to be used on the street

in california, you might have more issues due to it proably not being CARB approved, but basically the other 49 states, all long as the ecu is happy, and they see a cat there, they will be happy (some might not be happy about not seeing a factory cat there, so you just keep your factory cat just in case then)(the inspecters for my state are complete idiots, so you just have to make it stock appering really, they only use a mirror to make sure it is still there)

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

hmm any reason i only see you comment on my posts? Is ur name chris by chance heh. And about the heatshield i just retyped what someone else posted.

99CLstag

My name is Tom and I've been here since 2004 mister Brian. Have we met before?

I responded to your posts because every comment you make on here makes no sense and has little to no value. I was just pointing out the fact that what you said was funny. You were asking for instructions on how to weld a heatshield to a high flow cat.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

, and so true

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

i was just referring to this post and what it meant, but please spend all ur time trying to bash me, that will really help you in life. Some ppl on this forum are really petty guess thats why they are on here cause u cant talk shit in real life.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

in some states they look under to car to see if u have a cat. if they dont see a cat and just a straight pipe. u failed the test.
so u unbolt the heat shield from the cat and then weld it onto the test pipe so it looks like thier is a cat still thier.

u wont get any gains but u will pass inspections.

99clstag- dont bash on ppl when their trying to learn.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

yea making enemies never helped anyone.

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

I got the pulleys last night. I will be starting a thread soon.

Oh, one more question. I got the spark plug de-fouler, but the O2 sensor wouldn't fit properly in it so the shop took it out. I now have a CEL on. Anyone know how to get rid of it?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

like too tall and hitting the body??? , or were the threads different

if too tall, you can get right angles ones so the o2 does not hit the body (twice the $ though as the straight ones)

a far as the CEL, you could solder a resister into the signal, to take the peaks off the signal and lower the signal's voltage signal
but i do not really like the resister method, it does not seem to work as well as the o2 spacer method

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

u need 2 of the defoulers.

the one that goes onto the o2 sensor needs to be drilled so that the o2 sensor doesnt hit it. make sense? the second one that goes on the 1st defouler and screws into the test pipe does not have to be drilled.

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

I have two, and could probably do this myself. Where does the first one need to be drilled?

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

Not really sure. The guy installing it said the O2 sensor was "bottoming out" so it wouldn't fit. Thanks for all of the help on this everyone!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

it needs to be the size of the o2 sensor. just the tip of th sensor. so about 1/2" hole right down the middle.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

so hard trying to get someone who doesn't know EXACTLY what they're doing who is working on ur car... to understand everything so that it goes according to plan.

I hate when people create a problem with my car... lol

so i do everything I can fathom on my own. and honestly it's way better just DIY... or piece of mind, money and for the learning experience

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info. Time to get the drill out!

Tell me about it. I'm glad nothing serious has messed up on my car because there are few places around here that know anything about them. Last week my brother and I did some work on his SHO because no one around here knew how to work on them.

CL-Slick

iTrader: (7)

Also, once I get the de-foulers instlled, don't I need to pull the clock fuse to reset the ECU?