IMRC Actuator
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From: Phoenix, AZ
IMRC Actuator
Hey guys, I swapped in a CL-S6 engine into my TL-P, and noticed my IMRC wasn't working. I followed the troubleshoot and diagnosis procedure from the manual. I was thinking it was a problem with the wiring, but it just turned out that the IMRC actuator had a problem.
I opened the actuator, and found that one of the gear teeth very near the open side of the gear was broken. To fix it, I just set the cable adjustment open enough so that the gear stops right before it hits the missing tooth. Downside is that the cable is always pulled a bit, even at idle.
The problem I noticed was that the IMRC actuator now opens when I hit around 4k, however it doesn't stay open. It just opens and then closes immediately, even if I don't decrease idle. Is this normal? I figured it would open, and stay open until I went below ~4k.
I opened the actuator, and found that one of the gear teeth very near the open side of the gear was broken. To fix it, I just set the cable adjustment open enough so that the gear stops right before it hits the missing tooth. Downside is that the cable is always pulled a bit, even at idle.
The problem I noticed was that the IMRC actuator now opens when I hit around 4k, however it doesn't stay open. It just opens and then closes immediately, even if I don't decrease idle. Is this normal? I figured it would open, and stay open until I went below ~4k.
I could not get my irmc working when I swap in a type s motor either.
I used to differnt msd switches and nothing still.
I just removed the butterflys..
Got a imrc for sale if you want to get another one.
I used to differnt msd switches and nothing still.
I just removed the butterflys..
Got a imrc for sale if you want to get another one.
Hey guys, I swapped in a CL-S6 engine into my TL-P, and noticed my IMRC wasn't working. I followed the troubleshoot and diagnosis procedure from the manual. I was thinking it was a problem with the wiring, but it just turned out that the IMRC actuator had a problem.
I opened the actuator, and found that one of the gear teeth very near the open side of the gear was broken. To fix it, I just set the cable adjustment open enough so that the gear stops right before it hits the missing tooth. Downside is that the cable is always pulled a bit, even at idle.
The problem I noticed was that the IMRC actuator now opens when I hit around 4k, however it doesn't stay open. It just opens and then closes immediately, even if I don't decrease idle. Is this normal? I figured it would open, and stay open until I went below ~4k.
I opened the actuator, and found that one of the gear teeth very near the open side of the gear was broken. To fix it, I just set the cable adjustment open enough so that the gear stops right before it hits the missing tooth. Downside is that the cable is always pulled a bit, even at idle.
The problem I noticed was that the IMRC actuator now opens when I hit around 4k, however it doesn't stay open. It just opens and then closes immediately, even if I don't decrease idle. Is this normal? I figured it would open, and stay open until I went below ~4k.
Thread Starter
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,144
Likes: 564
From: Phoenix, AZ
I'm not to sure how much this helps, but when I did the swap roughly 10 yrs ago we ended up buying a $50 module that controls the actuator from the dealership that fixed the problem. If my memory serves me any good, that module is located inside the car and not in the engine bay, which was why most missed it during swaps. Best of luck.
Thread Starter
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,144
Likes: 564
From: Phoenix, AZ
I'm not to sure how much this helps, but when I did the swap roughly 10 yrs ago we ended up buying a $50 module that controls the actuator from the dealership that fixed the problem. If my memory serves me any good, that module is located inside the car and not in the engine bay, which was why most missed it during swaps. Best of luck.
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