StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

OK installing these calipers was suppose to be the easiest thing, I swaped out calipers no problem but this has turned into HELL.. The tech did not bleed them correctly and then he did and said they were fine.. I took it on a test drive and fine.. On my way home I heard like scratching noise from front passenger side so pulled over and there was ALOT OF HEAT comming from my passenger front tire and my EBC greenstuff pad was PURPLE!!! it was so HOT..
So i got home jacked up the car and took the caliper off, took me some prying w/flatehead screwdriver but it DID come off , IT was SOO hot..
So i pushed both pistons back It really was not very hard (BTW my rotors looked like a rainbow) but got the piston back with ease.. Poped it back on a went on a quick drive and STILL my passenger tire was alot hotter then the driver tire.. I thought the caliper was fine b/cuz it was able to get pushed back with ease but is still screaching and still heating up everything and the smell is nasty also comming from the brakes... Why me???

So is there anyway I can tell if it is deff the caliper or what on earth else can it possibly be?

Thanks guys!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

O.k. If the caliper IS NOT frozen then what else what cause the pad to stay pressed against the rotor? If the caliper Is frozen (not working) is there any way to trouble shoot it?

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

Check your line going into the caliper and make sure its not gunked or clogged, might just be some extra fluid stuck in the caliper.

and yes i have had that actually happen before on my civic, had to clean out the caliper with some brake cleaner, was a pain in the ass.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

i used all NEW fluid and put the caliper on empty and bled all the new fluid into the caliper, it bled easy so i dont think it is the line, the piston also pused back easy..

Darko when u put your caliper on did you use the stock brake lines cuz the seem very tight cuz the screw on the caliper is lower then the CL.

phee

iTrader: (5)

did u make sure to put the left cal on the right side and vice versa'
/?

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Yes they are on the correct side, but even then it would not freeze the caliper! People that use the Legend calipers put them revese all the time with no problems! I took the caliper off and was able to push it back with no problems and checked everything no leaks or kinks in the line and put the caliper on again and drove 15 miles to work with the same problem, still squeeling and the passenger is still hotter then the passenger caliper. SO what do I check out next?

pavan87

From what I read in the other thread by OperationDarkie, I don't think the calipers have to be reversed because the bleeder is already on top. If I'm incorrect, could someone please let me know because I'm thinking about getting NSX calipers as well. Thanks.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I remember reading that the NSX calipers go in the normal orientation (ie- left to left, right to right). Only the Legend calipers get flipped.

You reused your brackets right, not the ones that came with the calipers?

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

The calipers are on correct but on the NSX calipers the hose hooks up lower then the CL caliper so the Hose is streched a little if u use stock brake hoses.
The passanger side looked a little kinked so I replaced to hose just nowand made sure it did not leak and re-bled.. when the car was in the air and i pressed the brakes the hose moved as the fluid went back and forth so the fluid is comming back now the old hose was a little spun and kinked to get it top reach the NSX hole.. The damage is done the caliper is ORANGE red and the rotor is DONE like a rainbow, I just did this today to hopefully fix the problem till me new Caliper comes, the are sending it out monday.. After the hose i still hear screeching from the passanger and the caliper still heats up more on passanger side then drive side so the caliper is the problem I belive!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I reused the same brakets that where on the car!

phee

iTrader: (5)

I know what it is. The pads are installed incorrectly. The outer pad is on the inside and the inside pad is on the outside. Go check that the pads are on correctly

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Would the pads being reversed really do that much damage?
tHe pads look exactly the same and they fit perfectly..

I'll try to swap them 2night!

phee

iTrader: (5)

yup. let me know how it goes

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Do u think swapping the pads oppisite of what they are now will really make a difference.. When I take the caliper off the pads just fall off so i dont think thats the problem but I am at the point where I will TRY anything..
I thought this would help my breaking but it is turning into a nightmare..
Like I said I swapped the Hoses 2day and it got a little better , the rid home the passenger caliper got hotter then the driver and still hear squeeking when I am near a curb it is not as bad but is still there..
When the parts Cool off I will swap out the pads but i dunno if it will make a difference, what do u other guys think about swapping the pads oppisite of what they are sitting now they look exactly the same!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

They shouldnt look exactly the same. One should have the wear indicator on it and the other should not. The one with the indicator goes on the inside, closest to the motor.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

The wear indicator is the metal tad that sticks out.. If so that one was inside and they where on right.. I put on my old pads which had like 70% life and still squeeking and rubbing. It is 100% the caliper I tried EVERYTHING ELSE...!!

The Passenger side is considered the right caliper correct?
I have to order that one on rockauto they all-ready sent me a return sticker/printout but I have to order the part b4 monday 8 am is they will ship it monday.. Its on backorder for 5 days though so i will be w/o it for a week...

Why when I up-grade it allways bites me in the A$$...LOL...

So I eliminated EVERYTHING.. hose..put on new hose...pads..used diff pads..I dunno what else I should try it is 100% the caliper!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Thats what it sounds like. You can always throw your old ones back on so you dont destroy your pads and rotors.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

It does not seem as bad as the first day, it is heating up more then the driver and making noise (rubbing) still but not to the point where it is making the rim heat up. I'm just gonna drive it to work and back and keep checking it. I ordered the caliper just waiting, its 5 day back order..

The pasenger caliper is the RIGHT hand caliper correct?
I ordered the right side one, I hope it is the correct one!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yes. Driver=left, passenger=right

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Thanks civic, I ordered it but its on back order for 5 days , I also ordered some new rabesto rotors (they where cheap and my passenger rotor is way warped allready) and I ordered another brake line (just in case I need it)..
This better fix it, I dont understand what else it can be?

All the heat that was produced will not mess up the bracket that holds the pads in place, will it?

Can I buy just the braket that holds the brakepads in place?

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

OK I hate this tech to death...

So like I said my one caliper froze after he installed it ruined my roter/caliper/pad..Melted my pad..
Idiot kinked the line, next day other mechanic repleced the line re-bled seems fine rubs alittle but caliper got so hot deffinatly comprimised the runner boots.
SO today my caliper came in and I started painting the bracket and caliper. Took of the side that the first tech messed up but other tech fixed first and cames off with ease all screws where tight but good.
Get to the other side that the original idiot tech did that is working fine and ALL THE F&*KIN bolts are like 1000 lbs .. I broke a socket wrench and a rachet (snap on) trying to unscrew them... AND YES I am turning the corrrect way... The idiot tigthend them sooo hard there IMPOSSIBLE to get off..
I know you are suppose to tigten them good but c,mon i did not think the 2 screws that hold the caliper on r suppose to be 1000lbs ..

WOULD OVERTIGHNING THOSE NUTS MAKE THE OTHER SIDE FREEZE UP ??

I am just gonna wait till work and tell the service manager .. I held back cuz I was just gonna fix it myself and cut my losses BUT THIS IS ridiculous!!!

orry for all the mis spelling but im fumming!

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

just do the work yourself man, and quit going to that place because obviously they dont know what they are doing, changing a caliper is as easy as changing brake pads, except you have one more bolt to take off.

and at most i think you only need like 150 lb torque maximum on the bolts, put some antiseize on them next time you take them off, i use anti seize on every bolt on my car even the exhaust. makes taking off something a helluva lot easier.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

It's my work I thought they knew what they where doing! Most of the techs actully do know what they r doing, they did most of the stuff on my car and did it correct! I heard storys about this tech and the only reason they keep him around is becuz he is completly certified in all the GM tests and the dealer makes more spiffs the more certified techs they have working there so try keep him around to change oil and now the lawn! I thought he can do it correct and the only charge me $30 a hour and it cost like $15 just to have rotors turned so I figured I have them do it , I thought any idiot can do brakes I guess I was wrong!!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

$30 an hour? Please tell me you paid no more then $40 for the whole job.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

They charged me 2 hours to ruin my brakes!
How much do dealers charge for work by you.
Normally they charge $90 at GM dealers for work.
Acura charges over $100 a hour.
My old dealer just let me use the lifts and the techs let me used there tools but this new place I work is struck with that the service manager is a Di!k!
To have rotors turned it cost $15 a rotor at the pats places around me and I thought they would be able to do it In one hour any normal tech would have done it In a hour so $30. To turn the rotors do work myself or $30 what I thought it would be to have rotors turned and all work done ..
If I knew it would turn out like this trust me I would have paid $30 to have them turned and I would have done it myself!!!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Usually I charge myself nothing besides a cold glass of water (alcohol + power tools + my car is not a good mix).

Hindsight is 20-20. If you have a trusted mechanic to use, then by all means use him. But if this guy has a reputation with screwing things up because (it sounds like) hes lazy, I wouldnt trust him to do my brakes.

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

wait, you said its your work, but he put the kink in the line and installed the calipers....I dont get it, doesn't really sound like your work to me.

get you a hanes manual or the cl manual and DIY in my honest opinion, because due to the economy places are looking to keep people coming back or they might be out of business.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it is my work, im in sales and i ussally get a diff tech to work on my car but they where all bust so they assigned this one tech that is a idiot.
I thought any retart can do breaks but i was wrong..
I do have the helms manual BUT whn i asked him if he wanted to use he laughed ... I really hate this MOFO lincoln tech retart!

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

so did you install the caliper or did you have a tech install one, because you are not very clear.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

He had a "tech" do the install.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I had the tech install them the first time..

The next day I took the passenger side (side that was locked up) off and saw the like was kinked tight!

Operation Darko: did u use your stock brake lines cuz on the NSX calipers where u hook up the line is lower on the caliper then the stock CL calipers therfore the line is really tight. I had to unscrew the line on the holder (in the middle of the brake line) and swing it out so it was not soo tight.
I think that was the proble the line was kinked and tight when he did it so when i got home I fixed the line on the driverside (the one that was working) and replaced and fixed the line on the passenger side (the one that was stuck and melted my pad warped the rotor)..
Now they work fine but I ordered a new caliper cuz the caliper was red and i figured the rubber boot was comprimised by the heat. Now i need to paint and replace the caliper on passenger side and just paint the driver side and install new rotors (duralast) and pads (Akebano)

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

I drive on mine everyday with no problems.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

In got my caliper and painted it today....
B4 I put it on I realized that Rockauto sent me the wrong side in the RIGHT BOX, and I called to get the correct one sent out to me and FIND out they have NO more to send me!!! They sent me the "L" caliper when i ordered the right side do u belive this?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Jesus. When it rains, it pours huh?

That really sucks. When do they expect to have more in?

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

They have no clue, when other people send in there old ones to get remanufactured... With all the CL people getting them and not sending NSX calipers back they will never get more!!!
I dont belive they put the wrong side in the right box!! WTF !!

I ordered this one cuz the caliper got soo hot that first day when it was locked up I thought that the rubber might have got comprimised!!
I have been driving with it ( the rotor is warped and used old pads i had laying around) and it is not locked up but it does still make a rubbing noise..
I am just gonna put my new raybesto rotors on and akebano pads and hope for the best, If the caliper was dystroyed it would stay locked up? no?

Everytime I try and do a "upgrade" it bites me in the A$$..

I had more problems with this car in the last 6 months then the first 9 years!:w hyme:

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

OK I just put on my raybesto rotors and akebano pads up front.
I checked out the caliper that got really hot and the rubber that holds the cups looks fine we pushed one out to look and pushed out and in perfectly.

The car still shakes when braking from 60+ like the rotors are warped...
Did anyone ever have ther back rotors warp?
It feels like its comming from the back now but who knows..??
Also the fronts still make cis cis cis rubbing noise like somethings rubbing I DUNO!?!?!

Can back rotors be warped enough to shake the car when breaking medium-hard from 60+ speeds?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

That sis sis sis noise from the fronts is either warped rotors making that noise on the pads, bad hub bearings (doubt that), or most likely the shield behind the rotor is slightly tweaked and rubbing on the rotor.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Ok I replaced the rotors and pads with new raybesto rotors and akebano pads yesterday and it is still cis cis cis cis noise.. It all started when i replaced the NSX calipers but i thought it was from the warped rotor from when the caliper was locked up and melted the pad to the rotor but its still making the cis cis cis...

B4 I replaced the rotors in front the car and steering wheel was shaking when braking from high speeds but now i seem to feel the shaking from the seats and NOT the steering wheel anymore so I think the back rotors are warped now....

Has anyone had back rotors warp, I had my back caliper go bad like 3 months ago but bought one off a totaled CL from tweetgt and replaced it..So I think that the warped rotor was comming from the back the whole time just never thought that it would be the back..
Who knows, now i gotta get the backs cut and find out!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Check the shield behind the rotors for the noise you are hearing.

Its possible that the back have been warped. Its not impossible to do.