SG81

iTrader: (1)

i ALWAYS use mobile 1 oil. As for the filter, i usually buy about 5 mobile 1 filters when i'm in the States b/c it's cheaper there, but if i don't have any left in my garage, i just pick up a Fram locally

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

nothing's wrong with the oil. but there must be another choice other then fram. STP, pennsoil, any purolator filter, wix, K&N, bosch are all better then fram.

Amsoil is good stuff. I think they said their interval is 25k and i wouldnt have a problem running it to 25k. I would however check the oil to make sure your not burning too much to go below the min mark.

remember, if your running extended intervals, the filter is just as, if not more, important then the oil. choose a high quality filter.

BlackBettyR1

Amsoil recommends using their filter if using this oil for extended periods. That's what I was planning on doing. I am still a little scared of going that long, regardless.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i can understand in if the fram is the only one available local, but yeah those are real el-cheapo filters, and it needs a alot better one then that

anyways the one i use is carquest's blue line filter #85334

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

get quaker state filters.. I ran those for the first 35000kms on my car and it was running fine.

Now I just bought the 15 mobile 1 off the BM so i will be upgrading my oil filteration, but really..

first thing that's important synthetic oil
2nd thing change frequently 3.5K-5K (i do 5000kms)
3rd least is the oil filter (if u got good oil in the car and the motor has been maintained properly and u change ur oil frequently)

ASK URSELF HOW CRUCIAL is a SUPERIOR oil filter...

probably not much at all in the grand scheme of things.

so if u cannot get anything but the "not so good filters" then don't lose sleep over it cause it don't matter.


On my last car (the ford probe) I used fram ONLY for 100000kms and no issues. so, u know how it is... one person has a problem, is goes to the news, we all hear it for like 6 months and then we deem that product to be faulty.

Remember it takes years to build a reputable name for a company/business/product and only takes ONE MAJOR incident to ruin it.

(kinda funny how the world is... the only thing that is easy is death/destruction... everything else u gotta work ur ass off)

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

it is still better to have a qulity oil filter on it, but every once in a while with a poorer quality filter is not really a problem, just keep a quality filter on it as much as possible, and your 2nd thing not a whole lot of people follow that like us, so most people always need a quality filter on their car

CH46ESeaKnight

I feel that unless your racing or towing (not likely in a CLS)I mean real racing! Then changing your oil every 3000 miles is like changing you light bulbs in your house before they go out. 3000 miles was the original recomendation of the oil companies. And how far has oil come in 80 years? Pretty far if you ask me. Just my thoughts.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

they changed oil alot more often 80 years ago, alot of people proably never even drove 3,000 miles in a year,

yes oil has advanced over the years, but engines have become alot harder on it with alot higher power ouput with smaller displacements (30 years ago 1 hp per 1 cubic inch [or 61 hp per liter) was alot of power; nowadays 100 hp per liter is really commen [1.6 hp per cubic inch]) so they also hotter (the emissions improve too when they run hotter), they also rev higher too

but also engine compartments have become smaller and tighter around the engines so there is less air flow around them, which also makes them run hotter

also the oil sumps on modern engines have become quite a bit smaller, so each oil molecue gets more strain put on it in a shorter period of time, because there are not as many oil molecues to take the strain, so the oil runs hotter

also the filters have become smaller due to space constraints from smaller engine compartments, so they do not take as much to plug up (but modern engines do run cleaner, and are sealed better, so this is kinda offset)

people also drive their cars alot more nowadays in stop and go traffic, and short trips, which is torture to the oil

so i still like to change my oil at 3,000 miles due to the above

Six Shifter

I changed the oil in my CL every 7,500 miles on the dot. My next service would have been the 225,000 service. Not one engine related problem during the time I owned it. No synthetic ever used, just the manufacturer recommended oil/filters.

Rapture

So what, you personally drew out your oil and checked it at the 3k mile mark, to prove your case?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

no, i just change it at that mileage instead

CH46ESeaKnight

What is your source for this info? Is this proven fact? Source? Or is this just your opinion?

I would guess that engines today are easier on oil as they have become more efficient. And the oil has become stronger. This is just my thoughts though, not proven fact.

fsttyms1

Oh please. 7500 is just fine for every one here. My driving is probably some of the most severe here, and with regular oil and 7500-8k changes the oil was still fine. Using syn 10 and 15k is acceptable.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

from the sounds of it... this will never be a resolved topic...

fsttyms1

Sorry color doesnt mean its going bad. It means its doing its job. The ONLY way to know if the oil has life left in it is to have it tested!

fsttyms1

So if you dont change it more often your motor probably wont make it to that mark? Kinda funny how i was on the extreme end of extended mark and my first motor (only reason it got pulled was for the 6 speed/types swap) was at 220k and never burned any, bearings were perfect and compression was near perfect with every cyl and in spec. Unless something freakishly catastrophic were to happen it would have easily made it another 200k.

CH46ESeaKnight

I think It's a waist of money, time , and good oil to change synthetic more often than 5000 miles. And I think that 5000 is way into the safe zone. If I had to go 7500 I would not feel like I was hurting anything at all.

But I would like to know where friesm2000 got that info.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

theres more then one horror story to fram filters. just check BITOG. one reason is cardboard end caps, the drainback valve and the amount/quality of filter media. Im not saying fram will blow your engine up when you use it but theres clearly better filters out there. would you run 8, 10, 15k on a fram? I would do 5k max. Im running 10k on pureone, K&N and mobil 1 and I wouldnt think twice because those filters have proven quality demonstrated by cutting open filters and sending in used oil analysis. again, all the proof/info you need on filters and oil is on BITOG.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

they were/are more genealerzartions (spelling?), but from working on cars for a living...
they changed oil alot more often 80 years ago, alot of people proably never even drove 3,000 miles in a year,
from http://www.project.org/info.php?recordID=146


can't seem to copy and paste picture so go to link (remember 1980 os so was the oil embargo)

yes oil has advanced over the years, but engines have become alot harder on it with alot higher power ouput with smaller displacements (30 years ago 1 hp per 1 cubic inch [or 61 hp per liter) was alot of power; nowadays 100 hp per liter is really commen [1.6 hp per cubic inch]) so they also hotter (the emissions improve too when they run hotter), they also rev higher too
from: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/...erCarFleet.htm (i deleted some things not neccessary, so look at website for full thing) and can't seem to paste tables on here

look at the blue writing especially could only
cars were also heavy back in the day, then lightened up some due to thinner sheet metal and stuff, then started to regain weight due to safty features and other design requirement like creature comforts

MODEL YEAR
CURB WEIGHT, LB
EQUIVALENT TEST WEIGHT, LB
N/V
DYNO HP
DISPLACEMENT, CU.IN.
S.I. DPL, CU.IN.
HP/CURB WEIGHT, HP/LB
CID/ETW
TFC/IW, GAL/MI/LB E-5orts
ENGINE HP

working on the others, what to post first so i don't lose it

also getting kinda late

CH46ESeaKnight

I looked at your links, and don't see any supporting facts of your claims. In fact I see the oposite. Since 1970 Avg miles per year has only risen by 2000 miles.

But I understand you said "more like generalizations".

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

also remember that people bought cars after WW2 and move out to the suburbs more and had to drive further (also it was near the end of the depression 80 years ago)

and the generalizations are that every engine design is different and manufctors have different standards for designs, but in geneal follows what i said with smaller sumps, filters, tighter engine compartments, etc. the newer the MY's
like tighter engine comartments, they got alot more shit to pack under there nowadays, and aerodynamics play a huge role now for keeping the hood low and sloped which takes away any spare room

CH46ESeaKnight

Ok I found a great article. I did not research who wrote the article, so I will not say this is the bible to oil changes.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../interval.html

Anyways, read the entire thing. The last two paragraphs sum it up.

They go on to say that a 3000 mile change "are rubbish and worthless".

It's makes for great reading.

To the OP this should help answer your question. But like I said, I know nothing about the authur.

I'm sure there are many great articles on the subject.
I would usually go looking for evidence to dispute what is in that link, just to read both side of the story, but im tired and agree with the finding. I'll look later for reasons to change every 3000 miles.

CH46ESeaKnight

aerodynamics also take a HUGE load off the enigne.

I don't know of any manufatures that still say to change the oil every 3000 miles. Of course I have not really gone looking at owners manuals.

Shoot, my wifes Pacifica with a 3.5V6 252 hp 250 tq and weighing in at 4600 LBS with 19 inch rims and AWD recomends every 6000 miles under normal driving (in other words no towing), and thats on Dino oil!

CH46ESeaKnight

Well i tried to find good reason to change evey 3000 miles and only found more reasons not to.

http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/articl.../BA1EUUCL9.DTL


Pretty sure I'll never do a 3000 mile change again.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

theory 1: you know what i think

theory 2: also like what it says to the "oil analysis" way, by the time you pay for the testing you might as well have changed it, but i can definetly understand it on a much larger engine which takes ALOT more oil so it is alot more $$$ just to change the oil (like where it takes gallons of oil just to change it)

theory 3: without accurately measuring the oil, the life of it can easily change when you start out with a different oil then stock, but also it is assuming it runs exactly the same on every engine, and proably the same maintence, and stock parts like airfilters (cheap filters do not filter as good and can allow dirt into engine which causes increased wear and more oil contamination

theories 4, 5 ,and 6, you still need extremely accurate numbers and (which are not so easy to get and can quite easily change due to wear and it's maintence history) and some math, so those are kinda out the window

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

also to make sure every understands i am talking about changing convential oil at 3,000 miles (no mention of synthetic in OP's post), and i am fine with synthetic (with a quality filter) at 5,000 miles (the added cost of synthetic basically eats up any money saved by going with it, biggest thing is the longer change intervals, especially if you drive alot)

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

meh... i like the piece of mind of doing an early change. So i am stuck in my stubborn precautious ways. WHO'S WITH ME!?!?!?!?!?

hehehe

ChucksCL-S

My '00 TL now has 272,550 miles on it, still in the family and does not use any oil at all. 8K syn oil changes its entire life. Motor runs perfect.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

one qoute from the second site:

6000 miles under normal driving which most people don't fall under, and
and yes better aerodynamics does reduce the load, but people also drive faster and accelerate harder nowadays, which basically offset the aerodynamics

x2, and i got access to a lift so even easier for be, but even before that i still changed my oil at 3k

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

looks to be some decent reading of oil filters:
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html

i have not read the whole thing yet, i just started but wanted to share first


also maybe: http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...ers/index.html

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

shit just noticed that those two sites might be by the same guy

Six Shifter

Well ... here's a consideration that I think would be a bit nearer and dearer to the wallets of the younger demographic into whose hands these cars seem to have found their way into ...

My last 'service' was conducted at the 217,500 mark. Lets back this up to 210,000 just to make the math easier. Now, changing the oil at the 7,500 mark like I did throughout my ownership of Y2K3CL-S, I performed 28 oil changes. Doing this every 3,000 miles would have been 70 oil changes ... basically 150% more often. Based on the cost of oil, oil filters, etc, ... looks like there might be a bit of money left over for other mods if one were so inclined. And I think theres enough evidence that these engines are designed to last if manufacturer recommendations are followed. However ... if you've got that the money to blow, then don't worry about what anybody else says or does.

Rapture

I think my post kind of went over your head...

clpassenubye

iTrader: (20)

I realize that our engines can go 7500 mile intervals between oil changes but personally I get it done every 3-4k and I can definitely tell the difference in performance when its initially done so I choose not to string it out to the max. I get it done at the dealer and they use a synthetic blend.

clpassenubye

iTrader: (20)

The owners manual is mean't as a guide but if you modify your car and drive it like a race car(like some of us do) then that guide goes out the door and you should be getting changes at smaller intervals.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

se i live in CANADA and we got cold starts all the time and ur motor runs like shit until it all heats up therefore the oil gets dirtier and blah blah...

I'd rather have one less MOD and know my motor is happy as a kid at a candy shop.

but thats just me

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

get a block heater

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

still won't completely warm it up all the way, but yes it will help
i was even thinking about one for mine, just so i can have heat a little sooner (i know, i am a skinny white boy though), and it does not get nearly as cold here as where the mooses are

fsttyms1

Why? Unless you have your oil analyzed and its pointing to changing it sooner there is NO reason to do so. If you plan on running extended intervals have it tested after 7500k and see what type of condition it is in then and adjust your next oil change accordingly

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Exactly.

Theres was someone on the 8th gen Civic forum that has over 400k miles on his 2006 Civic (seriously).

He changes his oil every 20k miles. He runs Amsoil. He sends a sample in for testing every oil change. Theyve told him to run 25k miles per oil change, but he still does it every 20k.

I used to do it around 3k miles, but now Im doing every 5k. Its still a waste as Im most likely not using the entire life of the oil, but I just dont feel comfortable doing it longer due to driving conditions, the weather fluctuations the past week (70* Thursday, 30s and snow Saturday )

EDIT - Found the link http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mecha...strong-41.html

He does 150k a year And he hit his second deer a few days ago.