How do you do a burn out in Auto?
01-09-2003, 10:32 AM
#1
trying to get a lil V-I
Thread Starter
How do you do a burn out in Auto?
I just got my Sumitomos in and will be replacing them tomorrow. The front stock Michelins are pretty much done for, so I might as well have some fun.
This morning, on my commute I was all fired up
cause the dumb ass drivers were driving slower than normal and there was no traffic. So at one of the lights in downtown I turned off VSA and lite up the tires. There were a bunch of suits standing at the corner and all of them turned and looked at me like I was nuts.
Basically I want to know how to do a standing burnout. I remember going to the 1/4 track and pulling the e-brake for a burn-out, but the car still moved forward. I've seen a few videos of burnouts and in most of them the brake lights are on...I'm assuming they had their other foot on the brake. Is this what I need to do?
Don't worry, I probably won't do it again on the street. I'll go find an empty parking lot or something near the tire place. Unless people piss me off again on my commute home....
This morning, on my commute I was all fired up
cause the dumb ass drivers were driving slower than normal and there was no traffic. So at one of the lights in downtown I turned off VSA and lite up the tires. There were a bunch of suits standing at the corner and all of them turned and looked at me like I was nuts. Basically I want to know how to do a standing burnout. I remember going to the 1/4 track and pulling the e-brake for a burn-out, but the car still moved forward. I've seen a few videos of burnouts and in most of them the brake lights are on...I'm assuming they had their other foot on the brake. Is this what I need to do?
Don't worry, I probably won't do it again on the street. I'll go find an empty parking lot or something near the tire place. Unless people piss me off again on my commute home....
01-09-2003, 10:40 AM
#2
teh Senior Instigator
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put your foot on the brake and bring up the revs slowly by pressing the gas peddle. Do it till you can't put anymore pressure on the gas peddle w/o the car moving. Then release the brake and go. Probally won't get a great burnout, you can also do the ricer trick and do the same thing, but pull the ebrake up to lock the rear tires in place.
01-09-2003, 10:49 AM
#5
teh Senior Instigator
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Originally posted by CLS2001_97124
When you power break, isen't that bad for your tranny too?
When you power break, isen't that bad for your tranny too?
01-09-2003, 11:04 AM
#6
Left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas.
Apply both, but more pressure on the gas. You will feel the car moving slightly forward. More gas and a little more brake until you reach the point where the front tires lose traction and start spinning. Practice a few times and you will get it.
As soon as you feel that the front tires lost traction, apply full gas and just enough brake to hold the car in place. If you want to burn out and move forward, just let go of brake.
Apply both, but more pressure on the gas. You will feel the car moving slightly forward. More gas and a little more brake until you reach the point where the front tires lose traction and start spinning. Practice a few times and you will get it.
As soon as you feel that the front tires lost traction, apply full gas and just enough brake to hold the car in place. If you want to burn out and move forward, just let go of brake.
01-09-2003, 11:04 AM
#7
Racer
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Power braking our trannies would be pretty much a no-no! Unless you have a built trans and high stall converter for racing this is a dumb thing to do and will not help your launch at all! Want to burn up your trans, just keep power braking.
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01-09-2003, 11:11 AM
#8
Happy CL-S Pilot
I you do 1-5sec PowerBraking not exceeding 2000rpm pretty safe to do... Just do not do it for like 1 min..... otherwise the ATF fluid would go sky high and the least you would get a Check Engine light.
01-09-2003, 11:23 AM
#9
The Acura Granddaddy
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Rev to around 1500 or 1700 in neutral and then drop it into gear as you start to floor the gas. Your tires are sure to melt away in a cloud of smoke, just don't hold me liable for any tranny damage.
01-09-2003, 11:51 AM
#13
teh Senior Instigator
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Originally posted by blazerbob1
Power braking our trannies would be pretty much a no-no! Unless you have a built trans and high stall converter for racing this is a dumb thing to do and will not help your launch at all! Want to burn up your trans, just keep power braking.
Power braking our trannies would be pretty much a no-no! Unless you have a built trans and high stall converter for racing this is a dumb thing to do and will not help your launch at all! Want to burn up your trans, just keep power braking.
and you say this why? As long as you don't sit on it like nashua said and start boiling the ATF it's fine.
01-09-2003, 01:30 PM
#15
TRELOS
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How the hell can u people do a burnout in a FWD auto CLS??? I've tried to apply the E-brake and all it would do is drag my car. The car has a higher weight bias in the front so thats why the rear tyres drag. The only way that I can think of having the front tyres do a burn out (stock that is, or slight mods) is to really lower the pressure in the rear tyres and raise the pressure in the front tyres. Its either that or get wider rims/tyres in the rear and skinnies in the front.............GETTTTTTTTTTOOOOOOOOO.
Juker008
Juker008
01-09-2003, 04:01 PM
#17
Do it! U Only Live Once!
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Hmmmmmm...in my day, with rear wheel drive, we called this a "static torque." Left foot on brake and right foot down on gas. Car stood still, ass end of car rose up and tires spun (positraction). If no positraction, just one tire would spin.
01-09-2003, 04:06 PM
#18
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ghander: The answer to your question was already in my response! Since there seems to be some confusion about this subject let me restate. Power-braking causes trans temp to build to very high level. Can you get away with occasionally power-braking? Maybe? Do our CL's have trans issues?! You bet they do! I've power-braked at the drags and found no benefit over just nailing it. Racing puts major demands on a race car's engine, trans,driveline, suspension, cooling system. If you wish to race wouldn't you want to upgrade the weak links to enable and achieve the high perf your looking for to prevent premature breakage?! I went out and bought a 73' Camaro to take to the drags and save my CL for what it was intended- Cruise in a fast luxuary Coupe'. For racing I've built a highly modified TH400 trans with high stall converter (5000) that allows me to nail it at 5000rpm with much less wear and tare on trans. I also change oil and trans fluid very often due to rigors and demands of racing. So save your trans and just nail it! Not trying to be smart or anything,just trying to help people understand that power-braking won't help our CL' go any faster and only take more chances of braking! Cheers!
01-09-2003, 06:54 PM
#21
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Originally posted by AkuraCLS
just floor it on a wet road
just floor it on a wet road
Just turn off VSA and mash the gas pedal -- you'll leave a good amount of rubber behind you. I just got Sumi HTR+'s on my 2001 and they make a huge difference over the oem rubber.
01-09-2003, 07:10 PM
#22
GEEZER
N2O
A fiddy shot should do the trick!:flamer:
01-09-2003, 09:30 PM
#23
Drifting
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All I need to do is come to a stop at a right turn, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, turn off VSA, and floor it. With 21,000 hard miles on my stock tires, I burn out like crazy, while still going forward, for a good 150 feet.
This also leaves massive amounts of smoke in the air behind me.
Anyone else do this?
This also leaves massive amounts of smoke in the air behind me.
Anyone else do this?
01-09-2003, 10:10 PM
#24
The hair says it all
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torque braking is bad for the torque converter. learn more about it at www.howstuffworks.com!
01-10-2003, 12:43 AM
#26
Honkey
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I think the video I made of Anthony doing a massive, smoke unglulfing burnout in his rental CL-S proves that we can indeed so pretty impressive squeelies.
-Aaron
-Aaron
01-10-2003, 12:44 AM
#27
Drifting
Originally posted by darrinb
i cant get my tires to spin, these michelins grip so well
lol
i cant get my tires to spin, these michelins grip so well
lol
They stick like GLUE! I am worried about the axles snapping with all the grip.
01-10-2003, 01:01 AM
#28
Suzuka Master
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first you need cold weather
second wet ground
third apply the e-brake
fourth torque brake and floor it
make sure you take your foot off the gas as soon as the car starts going foward or you could mess up your rear tires
pour bleach where you plan on doing the burnout to get a neat effect!
sidemarker
second wet ground
third apply the e-brake
fourth torque brake and floor it
make sure you take your foot off the gas as soon as the car starts going foward or you could mess up your rear tires
pour bleach where you plan on doing the burnout to get a neat effect!
sidemarker
01-10-2003, 01:57 AM
#29
4dr & I like it that way
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1. find a nice empty parking lot
2. back the rear wheels onto a pair of food trays
3. pull the ebrake
4. gas away
in my TL-P the car could not move period with TCS off, the front wheels would just spin and spin. turn TCS(VSA) on and you can have alot of fun doing 6 foot diameter donuts have a buncha trays handy tho as they wear out pretty quick, and get hot enough to melt the asphalt!
ps - probably pretty obvious but only do this if you're getting new tires soon, you wont wanna drive on your tires again
2. back the rear wheels onto a pair of food trays
3. pull the ebrake
4. gas away
in my TL-P the car could not move period with TCS off, the front wheels would just spin and spin. turn TCS(VSA) on and you can have alot of fun doing 6 foot diameter donuts
have a buncha trays handy tho as they wear out pretty quick, and get hot enough to melt the asphalt! ps - probably pretty obvious but only do this if you're getting new tires soon, you wont wanna drive on your tires again
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