CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

ok so i called around and around some more and found that it's gonna be about 800 with tax to get the mufflers I want so.. i said F that now and wanna get a full custom catback.

now i know didley squat about exhaust so can you guys please enlighten me on what mufflers I should get and mid muffler and piping size.. and whether I should go high flow cat or not.

after talking to this custom exhuast shop they said 2.5 inch piping which will split at the Y into 2 inch piping then to the mufflers which he reccomended magnaflow.

i had magnaflow and they were loud and I don't want loud.. I want MAX power 1st and quite car 2nd.

anyone that can shed some light on this aspect?

thanks a bunch fellas

dbramaged

After talking to a local guy that had a boosted CL, he said that he got more power out of 2-3/4" piping with a single tip (with intermediate Vibrant "quiet resonator") prior to boost that keeping the stock duals. He had DC Sports headers w/ custom 2-3/4" catalytic converter (which I have yet to find).

Based off this info, I was going to run 2-3/4" to a HKS Hi-Power muffler with the Vibrant resonator to keep things quiet while boosting HP a little.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

no way i'll import mufflers if i am doing custom. cause it's way too much to get hks mufflers. and frankly i don't care about the brand just the sound.

2 3/4 sounds a little big tho...

would anyone else agree?
and should I go high flow cat?

cause the headers are 2.5 so if i go 2.5 cat and 2.5 piping to the y pipe and then split to 2 inch on both mufflers...

would that do the job?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Magnaflow 14382 seems to be a popular muffler on the CL. There is a thread below on the look:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...naflow+muffler

Only go to 2.5 since you're N/A. 2.5 all the way would be best i think. Magnaflow resonator is good. I would go with at least 18". I think the next length is 24". That will get rid of drone. Mufflers will be for the sound. Cat is up to you, but i think keeping it stock will give you the least amount of headaches.

Edit: also make sure the quality (thickness) of steel is good and use stainless all the way.

dbramaged

I hear what you're saying... He had a magnaflow muffler on his set up and he said it was really quiet, almost stock. Obviously I couldn't hear it as he doesn't have the car anymore, but he said that with an AEM CAI already installed, going from stock, he gained 5.5 HP with a dual muffler 2.5" piping to Y-2" and gained 7 HP with the single 2-3/4". Both setups had the DC Headers (2.5" piping) to a hi-flow cat. He did have a higher RPM gain as well with the larger piping closer to redline as the 2.5" was more around 6200. I wish I could've seen the sheets, but he sounded like a stand up guy and he's close friends with one of my friends, so I'll take his word.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

also forgot to mention the bends. There are different kind of bends shops can do. The CL doesn't have a lot of bends, but the best would be mandrel. This way you keep the 2.5 throughout the bend. There are also crush bends, which can pinch the exhaust during the bend.

dbramaged

Stay away from a ripple bend. Basically the misc exhaust piping you see in most parts stores. The worst type of exhaust piping really.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

5.5 hp and that wasn't even close to modded a lot... so i should be able to see 10whp will my list of mods.. yes!

if i could crack 240 with this custom exhaust i will be SO happy... but tone I want just as much too, since that's what will matter 98% of the time.

beating those 2 mustangs my boys have will be worth every penny.

so what size piping do i use when it splits to a y? 2 inch? or less

and yes it's going to be all stainless steel, mandrel bent piping, and polished magnaflow components ... just deciding on piping size for the y split.

what do i use?

dbramaged

Find out what these guys used as it seems smooth and not raspy:
Custom Acura CL Exhaust

But I want this sound, but with a nice resonator it won't be quite as loud:
03 Accord w/ 3" HKS Carbon-Ti HiPower Muffler

Yes if you're running duals to keep relevant flow from 2.5"

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Use whatever the magnaflow comes in. 2 or 2.5 would work.

Let me at your buddies cars and i'll take them all out myself

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

first video was gc86, he had XS mufflers, quad tips. I sat in his ride before and its quite droney, but I forgot what was the rest of his set up like.

dbramaged

Me?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

nono, i was saying that to Progression (he's local to me)

dbramaged

oh, I was like... "does this guy know me some how?" lol

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

yo gnutz i'd definately love to see u race it up.. and meet u too.

i'll be lowered as well by then (which will definitely help me stick 1st more), it's going to be perfect...

is there a particular resonator i should ask for as well.? and what's the part number for those magnaflow mufflers cause gnutz u said that were one number when it was posted on the link another.. so I duno who made error there

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

So glad I paid less than 500 bucks for my catback before they became hard to find.

Still get people asking me what type of exhaust it is or if it is custom...lol

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

oh i made a typo. it was 14832. it's a universal muffler that lots of CL guys seem to pick because it flows well. The resonator i had was a 2.5 in and out magnaflow. I would go with an 18 or 22". look at part 10436. That looks like it'll fit.

Check out my pic thread in the photo section Progression...you'll like the new car.

CH46ESeaKnight

If it were me I think I would just go with a single 2.5 inch all the way back to a single 18 inch magnaflow. first reason is it would be a lot cheaper then having a shop make you a Y pipe, and the extra cost of a second muffler. A single 2.5 will have plenty of flow for you HP target.

Also your local exhaust shop does "Mandrel" bends? There are not a lot of local shops that have the machinery to do this. If they do I'm sure they are charging a huge premium for it. A 2.5 even with crush bends will flow the amount you need just fine for your NA HP. With a single 2.5 back there are no really sharp bends to deal with on the CLS so the crush bend is not going to hurt that much.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

well my local performance shop jrponline.com said to go there and he'd make me a catback. and it says on there add mandel bends. the guy who i talked to said they do mandrel bends as well, so I doubt they won't be able to do it up nice.

they said 1000 plus tax so 1150 all in. for my final 10 hp and maybe 5 top end tq.. why not.. i've be waiting to do it for soo long.. my previous car i bought with exhaust so. i want to sound different

AARONSredTYPE-S

wtf, 1100 for exhaust, seriously?
i can go to my local right now and get a 3" single exhaust with muffler for less than 400, so what the hell is going on over there?...lol...gl

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

when ur in the US it's a whole different story with prices. vs where i am in canada.

i think ATLP is rolling through with their exhaust system so i may wanna go that way. That way i know i am not getting screwed for paying a lot of money.

Unr3gist3r3d

does the 98-02 exhaust fit on CL? if it doesn't, you can try to bring it to shop and mod it...

Espelir is pretty good
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ESPEL...Q5fAccessories

in the end it will be cheaper than the 1000 quoted...1000 is A LOT of money...
and if you do custom, it's better to do 2.5" all the way rather than 2" after the Y... and if you want performance then you should get rid of your stock cat converter...

dbramaged

I looked into this... It's close, but after looking at the 2 piping sections, the entire pipe from the cat the the mufflers needs to be redone... bend is slightly off and then the Y is located just a hair off as well... Just enough to cause a problem


To keep correct exhaust flow, you don't want to run 2.5" into 2x 2.5" pipes as this will disrupt the flow of the exhaust. Equalized pressure will exist with 2.5" into 2x 2" pipes. Removing the cat incorrectly will cause more problems than adding HP. Using just a test pipe could throw your CEL, cause the 02 sensor to prematurely fail and also cause your AFR to be off, rich or lean & lean = blown motors. Be sure to either use a "fat cat" or a standard hiflow with larger piping to match the collector from the headers.

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

Are u sure of this..... i know insufficenent flow can rob u of HP and mostly Torque but I wasn't aware it was bad enuff to lean out to cause AFR issues, rich or lean & lean = blown motors.... esp on a NA application.

dbramaged

I was referring to using the test pipe. I've built/modified several types of vehicles (boosted & NA) and a few with test pipes running a stock narrow band O2 sensor. There have been times that the test pipe will affect the reading from the down stream O2 sensor, which sends the information to your ECU, which then tried to correct it but may cause either your AFR to be overly rich, or quite lean. This doesn't always throw a CEL. If you run too lean, you can blow your motor.

CH46ESeaKnight

Are you talking about the after cat 02 sensor? I thought the after cat 02 sensor only reads weather or not the cat is working or not, and your pre cat o2 is the one that ecu will use to correct AFR. Am I wrong?

CH46ESeaKnight

Ok now that I checked myself and did a little refresher on O2 sensors I think I was right. Putting in a test pipe should not affect your AFR because it IS the up stream 02 sensor (before the cat) that is responcible for adjusting AFR. (Upstream 02 is not the only thing in the engines electronics the adjust afr, but only one part that is taken into consideration) Not the rear. The ecu looks at the signals between the two to see if the cat is working or not. Any reading for AFR after cat would be scewed because of the chemical change in the gasses from the cat.

From Wikipedia.

The oxygen sensor is the basis of the closed-loop control system on a spark-ignited rich-burn engine; however, it is also used for diagnostics. In vehicles with OBD II, a second oxygen sensor is fitted after the catalytic converter to monitor the O2 levels. The on-board computer makes comparisons between the readings of the two sensors. If both sensors show the same output, the computer recognizes that the catalytic converter is either not functioning or has been removed, and will operate a "check engine" light and retard engine performance

dbramaged

Due to the same output from the sensors, several Honda/Acura ECUs have been known to try to correct the readings by adjusting the AFR without throwing a CEL. This is one of the reasons I have (on previous cars) converted to an ODBI ECU.

I wish I still had the video from using the ODBII then converting to the OBDI showing the AFR change on the A/F gauge. Removal of the catalytic converter can cause inaccurate readings or comparisons due to the change in the exhaust.

Edit: Personal experience, the car I traded in for the CL was a 1997 Civic with a F20B DOHC Vtec engine from Euro Accord. The engine was an OBDII engine. I kept the stock ECU as I could not find a ECU for the correct parameters for the engine when it was installed. I did not have a cat from the exhaust change over and the car ran VERY rich. Between gears, the car would actually shoot flames on a regular basis. I ended switching to a P28 OBDI ECU and the rich AFR went away immediately. The ECU was chipped a week later to adjust further, but that is a prime example. On the negative end of examples, a 1991 Civic was swapped to a D16Y8 Engine (96-99 Civic EX motor SOHC Vtec OBDII). He also removed the catalytic converter and didn't realize how lean he was running on the stock ECU until he had rod knock and the shop checked the AFR showing him why, but he had already caused too much damage. The engine was from my civic and was not running lean when I sold it to him with the exact setup that was put into his car. Neither situation caused a CEL.

dbramaged

Sorry, I had to find the info:

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The secondary O2 sensor does not effect AFR on the CL. My secondary O2 was ripped out by a fucking truck tire on the highway (wires torn, O2 snapped in half). Yes there was a CEL, however my AFRs were right where they should be the entire time (according to my wideband). The secondary O2 is just a sniffer, it makes sure your cat is operating the way it was intended.

If you get a CEL for the secondary O2 sensor after installing a high flow cat or a test pipe, get a defouler for it. I am running a high flow cat and got a CEL for the secondary O2 once. Cleared the code and it never came back.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

why dont u get a true dual....i was thinking of getting it on the 05TL....once i renew my plates for 2 year....true dual it will be....

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

Thats for a TL, this is the CL section, as far as I know there are no true dual setups, besides would probably be a pain to get one to fit.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Thats the whole point of building your own....There is no true dual setup for TL as well....Rv6 has one but its like an arm and leg to get the j-pipe + exhaust....

I will be building my own as well....the reason I suggested true dual is 2.25" piping is good enough....you wont loose any HP/TQ from splitting the pipe and merging them again...

yes you will have to find a decent exhaust shop....but u will be done in $600-800 depending on mufflers and tips....