Help! Fuel pump relay location
#1
Help! Fuel pump relay location
Hey guys I'm having trouble with my fuel pump relay ( I believe). I turn the key to the on position and I dont hear the fuel pump priming the engine like I've read it's supposed to. Anyways I look under the drivers side dash for the relay and I have not much clue to look for. I see the black cruise control box and theres a grey box next to it. Is the relay on the drivers side or the passenger side of the steering column? Please help!
#4
Found it! My vehicle was experiencing the symptoms of a bad relay. I first removed the knee panel underneath the steering column to get better access to the mounting plate that the relay is attached to. From underneath you can barely see it because of the massive wiring harnesses that block it's view. Anyways it has a reddish colored plug going into the back of it and it sits by itself. It is not attached to a board. It is mounted with a bracket that you need a 10mm socket to remove. You must remove the bracket to take out the relay. To get access to the 10mm nut I had to unplug a cylindrical connector that is below the relay. The relay is basically under the drivers side of the steering column.
I needed a quick fix so I opened up the relay, resoldered the two contacts that typically go bad. After putting this resoldered relay back in it works like new and starts up perfectly!
I needed a quick fix so I opened up the relay, resoldered the two contacts that typically go bad. After putting this resoldered relay back in it works like new and starts up perfectly!
#5
Found it! My vehicle was experiencing the symptoms of a bad relay. I first removed the knee panel underneath the steering column to get better access to the mounting plate that the relay is attached to. From underneath you can barely see it because of the massive wiring harnesses that block it's view. Anyways it has a reddish colored plug going into the back of it and it sits by itself. It is not attached to a board. It is mounted with a bracket that you need a 10mm socket to remove. You must remove the bracket to take out the relay. To get access to the 10mm nut I had to unplug a cylindrical connector that is below the relay. The relay is basically under the drivers side of the steering column.
I needed a quick fix so I opened up the relay, resoldered the two contacts that typically go bad. After putting this resoldered relay back in it works like new and starts up perfectly! Below are pics of the two contacts that go bad. Only one of mine went bad and thats the one in the first pic. I have 20/10 vision and I had trouble spotting the broken solder on the connection. I used no extra solder, I just touched the iron to the circular crack and resoldered it letting gravity pull the solder towards the center (I held the relay horizontal as I soldered). Very easy fix (once you find the relay that is) and I hope this post helps anyone trying to figure out why their CL won't start in hot weather.
I needed a quick fix so I opened up the relay, resoldered the two contacts that typically go bad. After putting this resoldered relay back in it works like new and starts up perfectly! Below are pics of the two contacts that go bad. Only one of mine went bad and thats the one in the first pic. I have 20/10 vision and I had trouble spotting the broken solder on the connection. I used no extra solder, I just touched the iron to the circular crack and resoldered it letting gravity pull the solder towards the center (I held the relay horizontal as I soldered). Very easy fix (once you find the relay that is) and I hope this post helps anyone trying to figure out why their CL won't start in hot weather.
#6
Very helpful.
I changed the crankshaft sensor because that's where the symptoms point. I did this trick after and I I regret paying someone to put a crank sensor on it did the same thing. IT REALLY WORKS. Proven to work. It's very minor and people will sell there car because of it! Oh how the world works.. 1 soder crack and the car is unreliable. Crazy.
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