CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

K so as some of you know I got rotors off ebay and had a shit load of problems figuring out why the FAK my wheel KEPT shaking when i braked.

I bought new pads, sanded this, that and everything under the sun. Cleaned the hubs, even cleaned the wheel where it meets the hub. All bolts are tightened evenly and the lug nut were tightened in a star pattern as recommended.

SO. after all said and done, it was the front rotors

SO Quick Stop Pro shipped me a new front set and ceramic pads.

Yesterday i installed them and drove around just babying them and they seemed to be just fine. Then I drove a lil faster and braked and I felt a slight wiggle in the wheel.

And today on the way home in on and off traffic I noticed when the rotors heat up a lil and (only when i threshold braking) the wheel begins to wobble. Not crazy like before but still it happens.

If I brake harder after it's been wobbling it'll stop wobbling.

SO WTF..

I read somewhere U should NOT brake aggressively until 300miles of driving, to allow everything to set and work in harmony.

Also I notice the rotors are machined in a perpendicular fashion SO, wouldn't that mean i must use the rotors until those machining marks are gone to get rid of the wobble? and then the rotors SHOULD work like rotors are supposed to?

I'm dead out of Ideas everyone. I've now done 9 front brake jobs since buying the first set of rotors. 9!!!!!! I kept having to put on my oem rotors after the other ones didn't work cause it was literally unsafe to drive.

Now it's just a lil wobble (in comparison) thats annoying


P.S sorry for typing so damn much, it's no where near as long as the real story, and I'd appreciate ANY ideas anyone may have to save me any more hassles than I've already had.

Something's telling me to just blow these rotors up and buy DBA rotors and say F it.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

the more brake pedal u apply, the more the rear brakes will work. how are ur rear rotors and pads?

CH46ESeaKnight

Brakes are the most important thing on the car. Especially a performance modded car. Don't understand why people go cheap on brakes but spend a small fortune tuning their car. Just go with EBC, or DBA and quality pads and you should be fine. I've ran many EBC's and never once have I had a problem, even with a track car or a heavy SUV towing the track car.

9 times is alot of work my friend. Could not be cheap either. Lesson learned?

FYI I've been reading great reviews on Carbotech brake pads for about two to three years now. I think my next vehicle will get the DBA's and Carbotech pads. (Been itching to try that combo) It will either be a 04-05 LS6 CTS-V, 04 E-55 AMG, 03 Audi RS6, or 04-05Jaguar S Type R. Thoes are what I'm leaning towards.

http://www.ctbrakes.com/ is thier website, just in case your curious. They have get great reviews from a lot of track guys. And they have many compounds for various type of driving apps.


With you trying 9 times, you might not want to rule out other possible problems. Someone more familiar with the CLS front end might ba able to chime in!

Good luck

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

From what I understand...not properly bedding in the brakes will cause them to wobble and prematurely warp.

There is a good bedding in process to follow.

I'll ask my CL friend what he does because he's been able to fix that wobble that way before.

But obviously it has to be an issue solely with the brakes.

Zippee

Threshold braking??????

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I do 6-10 heavy stops from 45 to 10, not hard enough for ABS to kick in but not dragging the brakes either. Then I do one or two stops from 60 to 10 and then let the brakes cool for 15 minutes. Done. I do it every now and then when I feel like my pads are glazed. It wakes them right up.

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

And there we go...that's what my friend would have told but I couldn't remember the intervals.

scholtew

Looking on eBay for some new rotors myself, will cl-s rotors fit my cl-p? I don't figure they can be much different

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

same stuff. 01-03 cl-p/s or 99-03 tl-p/s

camaroracer016

Not to hijack, but thats my next car

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

threshold braking is when you hold the brake at a certain point and do not move it, so you can see if/when the heat will have an effect on the rotors.

So like i said if i apply the brakes, feel the wobble, then press down my foot more it'll go away.

As for bedding the pads and rotors I did it right. in 2 stages the first day, then highway the next day doing light braking. I still have yet to hit the brakes harrd. The surface is still not going with the wear of the pads. It's getting better but still. Nothing spectacular yet. I'm hoping this is the issue. It'd be nice to not have to spend a fortune on preeemo rotors. Although they are spectacular.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

threshold braking is when you hold the brake at a certain point and do not move it, so you can see if/when the heat will have an effect on the rotors.

So like i said if i apply the brakes, feel the wobble, then press down my foot more it'll go away.

As for bedding the pads and rotors I did it right. in 2 stages the first day, then highway the next day doing light braking. I still have yet to hit the brakes super hard. The surface is still not going with the wear of the pads. It's getting better but still. Nothing spectacular yet. I'm hoping this is the issue. It'd be nice to not have to spend a fortune on preeemo rotors. Although they are spectacular.

Can the rear rotors cause steering wheel vibrations btw?

camaroracer016

Negative. Rears will cause a whole vehicle vibration, not in the wheel. front wheels are connected to steering wheel thats why you feel it in the wheel, rears are not. you could however, feel it in the brake pedal if the rears are warped bad enough.

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

is it cross drilled or slotted?

thevikas87

iTrader: (2)

Holy shit. Just pay someone to do them for you, I'm not trying to put you down, but if you're having that much trouble, just get it done professionally. If there is still a problem then, it will be the shop's problem.

After you trying 9 times, I don't believe we can be of much help, there seriously must be something wrong...

Goodluck.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I have EBC slotted and green stuff ready to install, and their bedding procedure is a bit different. They say to baby the brakes (avoid hard braking if possible) for 100 miles. Then do 5 hard stops in a row to heat it all up but avoid keeping the brakes pressed afterwards while they're hot.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

lol I'm not putting them on and doing it wrong every time!!

I kept my oem rotors and whenever I put them on the front everything is FINE. So OBVIOUSLY it's NOT ME.

Only when these friggin rotors are on the front does this shit happen.

You ppl have no faith in me.

Don't forget I did all the rest of my mods myself aside for the pulley cause I didn't have a massive impact gun.

Putting on rotors properly are a sinch. This whole issue I am having should not exist! It's the damn rotors, I'm telling you.

And If i had paid $ to have these rotors installed I'd be ROYALLY pissed cause i'd just have to figure out wtfs up anyways, And I was able to find that out cause i put the fronts on first then went for a drive and that's when problems started.

Every single time I slammed back on my oems everything was back to normal. And I've done that 3 times LOL

So you'll have to point ur fingers at something else

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

drilled and curved slotted rotors.

I think I may just do some heavier braking to make these rotors accept the heat. But sh*t, I hate the wheel moving.

Like it makes the car feel so cheap!

When I get some more $ and my local shop start selling dba rotors I'm getting a full set of them. Fak it.

I'm sick of this. These rotors are prolly made from pop can tabs or something

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I had the car for 10 yearS and it warped rotors on every rotor I put on except one! Try some great rotors that's the only thing I can think of. The only rotors that did not warp where ebc dimpled and slotted and greenstuff pads, from personal experiance I know those did not warp but I bet Dba street or 4000 series will do fine also stay away from eBay rotors they prob use cheap metAls

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

yea bro I kinda am finding out the hard way.

Sucks too cause the rotors look bad ass, but are made by cheeseballs.

I never thought it'd be this hard to find a company that can shape METAL properly when that is their ONLY TASK.

When you only got one roll and you suck even at that, you know you're hopeless.^^^^

Quite sad really..

I am at 140kms right now on the new front rotors and pads and they wobble only when i threshold brake. SO MAYBE JUST MAYBE it'll go away when the rotors are worn with the direction of the pad wear.

All that is left for me is optumism even though I am a realist.

I'll buy the 4000 dba front rotors when JRP carries them and see where that leaves me.

HOPEFULLY I can keep the back on so I don't need to spend a FORTUNE

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

they sell ebc rotors locally but are 278 with taxes for the front, and they got the weird dimples on them, I hate the look personally. I cannot come to spend that much on crappy looking rotors. lol

that's why I want the dba slotted and drilled, look amazing and are engineered even better.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

at this time, i dont think its about looks. u cant get cheap rotors and expect them to be the best.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I got Front and Rear EBC slotted only rotors (no dimples) and green stuff pads locally for 550 out the door. I'll try and remember the place, they're in mississauga too.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

First Force is the company name. Really nice guys working there. They gave me a discount because i bought rotors and pads for the whole car. Good luck.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

ur may be thinking of JRP

Johnson Research Performance by QEW and erinn mills RD

that's the place that will be selling dba rotors ina month or so

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i paid 350 for these rotors btw I went on ebay clicked priced highest and then started looking.

My objective was to have the choice of how i wanted them to look.

I just got screwed, that's about all there is to say really.

I've had worse, much worse. amen to that

SG81

iTrader: (1)

let me know how you like the EBC's. I was thinking of them for my next set

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

IMO, that is your problem there you bought ebay rotors, you would have just been better off buying rotors from a actual company with a warranty, well thats what I would have done.

you cant expect to spend like no money and get a great product.

if that was the case, i'd be one hella rich ass black man right now

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

K so i went for another breakin run and they seem to be getting better believe it or not.

The wheel only wobbles slightly now when breaking kinda hard after breaking a few times shortly before.

Sounds like the machining lines are what's causing it cause they're getting smoother and smoother and so is my braking.

However I do have a slight steering wheel vibration when on the highway, I mean SLIGHT.

You can only feel it, not see it with one eye scoping it out. so it's miniscule.

But if i drive faster than 70mph it's gone.

Prolly the pads touching the rotor machine marks causing uneven sliding on the rotors which is making the slight vibration. Which I think is getting better also.

so I JUST MAY, not be fucked

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Those slight vibes on the highway, are they while braking or all the time?

camaroracer016

i ordered my front ebc slotted and dimpled with ebc greens for 239 shipped.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

No, i was saying the place i got my EBC rotors and pads from is called First Force, off Matheson. Check them out if you'd like, they have a website.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

kk well i drove it some more and now things are seeming to find there proper place. The wheel only moves a hair under heavy braking when the rotors are HOT under threshold braking.

The vibe in the wheel pn the highway when I am not on the brakes is going away more also.

It's gotta be these lines on the rotors from the machining process.


WOOOOHOOOO, I just MAY keep these POS after all. They're turning into actual ROTORS that work.

What an amazing thing. BOOO to Quick Stop Pro that's the brand.

Looking back i should have know... with a chinsey ass name like that no wonder I'm going through all this mayhem.

phee

iTrader: (5)

you bought cheapo depo rotors.

good luck in your journey to warped rotors in 5k miles

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I think placeforbrakes.com has the dba 4000 for around $200 for the fronts and ebc sloted for around $160 if my mind serves me correct!

CH46ESeaKnight

You can get a preemo set for a fraction of the doe you spent on thoes plenums.Does not make sence to me, seems like priorities are wrong. But what ever floats your boat. Under $200 for a set of EBC's and thats shipped. Not sure on the price of the DBA's.

You kinda remind me of that kid that keeps sticking a fork in the wall socket. It should have been a self correcting problem the first time, or in your case 9 times.

Thats is F'ed up if the machine marks are even big enough to cause a problem. Should not be an issue! Might want to make some boat anchors out of them!

PAYMEE

iTrader: (1)

i recently bought ebc slotted dimpled gold zinc rotors on ebay from a private seller...i paid $101 shipped for the front and $65 for the rear...2 seperate auctions...i think i got a great deal...now i'm just searching for pads...looks like i'm gonna go posi-quiet ceramics but undecided...also lookin at ebc green stuff pads...i just don't want alot of brake dust

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Buying brakes because of the way they look?

What has this place evolved in to?

Buy the DBA's (or Rotora's) and be done.



Rotora's after ~80k miles or so







I had them with EBC Red Stuff pads. Loudest pads ever. Didn't last long either.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

my red stuff pads are quiet. lots of wear but also great stopping.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

lol yea well dba from what I've seen and read about is the top of the line.

But as for now my brakes seem to be getting more and more normal... But i still doubt they'll be perfect like I want them to be. So i'm going to just ride these out since I can now BARE with them since the vibrations are not mental. And then when JRP stocks them i shall buy a front set first and then the rears.
No new pads though, I'll just sand down the ones I bought a few weeks ago and save myself the 200!