Glad to see you finally got your stuff in.

What kind of numbers are you expecting when your done adding parts and tuned ?
Are you staying N/A with it ?

 

It is 99.999% done.

The tuner sent me this comparison between the old motor with quiet exhaust and now but it is one of the earlier runs before we got 302 TQ.



He said he is out of the shop until Wednesday and will email me the rest of the charts then.

The @#*! cutout wouldn't open. He thinks there are at least 15 hp & 20 lbs there.

grrrrrrrrrrrrr

I just fixed it. All I did was open the compartment it's wiring is under and look at it and it worked. I checked my wiring and nothing was loose. I re did it anyway.

It is 11.01 so even if I wanted to only low boost SC would be possible. I really want to be done.

 

ok how did you break it in so quickly so you went on the dyno already... sounds great and loud

 

Broke it in on the dyno and then changed the oil. 7 miles on that change.

 

i thought it must be done like civicdrivr did... anyway WOOOOOT gratz man great project...
those numbers are without tune right ?

this car will be unbelievable loud when you open the cutout

 

There are as many break in procedures & opinions as stars in the sky.

I am not a mechanic but the people that put the motor together and the tuner that has built lots of motors agreed it was acceptable to do it on the dyno.

He spent 20 minutes going through all rev ranges not staying at any rpm for long, letting it cool down until he said it was done. Then we changed the oil and he tuned it.

 

There are all sorts of methods to breaking in a motor. The ultimate goal is getting the rings to seal properly. How you go about doing it doesnt matter.

BTW - I like the little loop-da-loop at ~2200rpms

 

It's a happy rev!

 

 

Didn't Santa come yet?

 

Got two new rear tires today.

 

Got Fumoto?

 

Go fumoto yourself, buddy.

 

Lol nice build

 

We need to see real world, WOT runs on video so we can know this build was actually completed. For now, I do not believe you.

 

x2 on what (s)he said

 

I see what you did there. At first, I 'd. But then I 'd.

 

Uh oh, guess Civic's just too smart for me!

Fumoto U!

 

I thought you were going to make more power with your build.
Alot more.
Don't you have all forged pieces stroked,head work,and cams ?

 

Yes. I am missing about 18lb tq which I'll get back with the cutout open. These motors don't make much NA.

It is 60hp and 50lb tq over stock now.

 

No plans to search out more pony's?
you did not go forged for no reason..

 

I went forged to be bulletproof, improve cooling and be positive I would never have to think about the motor again. The issue with these engines is caused by bad rings/pistons.

 

I just installed my modded clutch pedal. What a difference!

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...tch-pedal.html

Well I've had my 07 Z for about a month now and seem to have nothing but issues with the clutch system. I've already pulled the transmission to replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder and adjusted the clutch pedal 4 times.

Basically I can't stand clutch grabbing at the top 1.5" of clutch travel when the pedal has to move 8" to the bottom.

The problem with the OEM design is the clutch pedal (when disconnected from the master cylinder) has a sprung rod that depending on its location in travel can spring the pedal upwards or down to the floor. This downward force makes it impossible to safely adjust the pedal any more then an inch or so downward. If you crank the master cylinder fork-to-pedal connector too far in you end up having the pedal's up position below the "neutral spring zone". This causes the pedal to be holding pressure on the clutch hydraulics, thus slightly removing clutch pressure plate force (AKA burn up your clutch).



The solution I found was to cut off the "linear spring rod" tab from the pedal arm and rotate-weld it a few degrees counter clock wise as seen in the picture. This increases the angular movement of the pedal from top to the neutral zone, thus allowing you to correctly adjust your pedal further down.

 

my buddy had same problem in G35

i still see no videos

 

Post 880.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=880
Stroker installed and broken in on the dyno 2,000.00. 301 WHP/302WTQ

PRICELESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First drive after install

http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=4823730f.mp4
http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=deb85b06.mp4

 

We want real acceleration videos. Not pulling out into traffic.

You are ignore until you address those requests.

 

^this

 

Thanks for making it so easy to get you off my a*s!

 

 

Thought I was on ignore.



Fine, here's your F*cking video.

 

Thats soccer. Title fail.

 

AVI fail.

 

Dont be jealous of my sick moves.


And you definitely dont want me to break out jazz hands.

 

i thought it was ginger kid, wasn't ?

 

I got yer jazz hands right here!

 

 

 

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is from an 07 W/O Brembo With TCS.

TCS/SLIP stayed on so I put a piece of electrical tape under the face.





Just verified SET flashes up when changing maps. I have three. full, valet and no start.

My car is officially fully optioned!!!!!!!!! (to my wish list)

 

a real videos ? how it pulls ? i do not really follow of what you posted today

 

I really have no safe way to take moving videos. Base Zs don't have cruise. Mine now does.

First it had it but no dash lights, Nissan omitted the .2 cent leds on base clusters that go to options the car does not have.