Front End Noise @ Low speeds turning
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Front End Noise @ Low speeds turning
'03 CLS 6 Speed / 125k miles / stock suspension
Hi everyone, I'm completely stumped...
I starting noticing my passenger front tire feeling like it was slipping at very low speeds when the wheel was turned (ie- Starbucks drive through!).. Took it to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong.
Now this it happening with both front wheels and I also get a creaking sound... @ low speeds with wheel turned. I know I had a new driver's axle installed not long ago so its not CV boot related. I am in bad need of new struts, but this seems to be only an issue during turning.
Last note: I fought with a curb last Friday and it won. I wound up buying 4 new rims and tires and went from 17's to 18's. I noticed a faint burning smell (like rubber) coming from Passenger front tire (I hit the right side). After I got the tires I got an alignment and the tech didn't see anything wrong. I also checked and know there isn't a clearance issue.
Hi everyone, I'm completely stumped...
I starting noticing my passenger front tire feeling like it was slipping at very low speeds when the wheel was turned (ie- Starbucks drive through!).. Took it to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong.
Now this it happening with both front wheels and I also get a creaking sound... @ low speeds with wheel turned. I know I had a new driver's axle installed not long ago so its not CV boot related. I am in bad need of new struts, but this seems to be only an issue during turning.
Last note: I fought with a curb last Friday and it won. I wound up buying 4 new rims and tires and went from 17's to 18's. I noticed a faint burning smell (like rubber) coming from Passenger front tire (I hit the right side). After I got the tires I got an alignment and the tech didn't see anything wrong. I also checked and know there isn't a clearance issue.
#2
Senior Airman
iTrader: (1)
Could be a bad lower ball joint. If you don't get it checked out you could end up messing your car up really bad.
Check this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...wer+ball+joint
Check this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...wer+ball+joint
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (07-20-2011)
#3
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
Hopefully they would have noticed a bad ball joint when doing your alignment (shouldn't have done one if it was bad). The noise sounds like it might be a mad strut plate too. The bushings could be worn out. You wont know until you pull the strut out though. One way to check is to have someone turn the wheel lock to lock slowly and watch the springs/strut rotate. If you see it jumping or binding while its turning thats usually a good sign its worn out. Can get the Moog bushing kit for like 15 bucks a side and just have replaced with the struts...
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (07-20-2011)
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Could be a bad lower ball joint. If you don't get it checked out you could end up messing your car up really bad.
Check this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...wer+ball+joint
Check this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...wer+ball+joint
Hopefully they would have noticed a bad ball joint when doing your alignment (shouldn't have done one if it was bad). The noise sounds like it might be a mad strut plate too. The bushings could be worn out. You wont know until you pull the strut out though. One way to check is to have someone turn the wheel lock to lock slowly and watch the springs/strut rotate. If you see it jumping or binding while its turning thats usually a good sign its worn out. Can get the Moog bushing kit for like 15 bucks a side and just have replaced with the struts...
Good to know about the bushings and that they don't come with the new struts. I'm likely going with the tein basics and want to change all the other little wore stuff at the same time to save a headache and to save on labor. Not going to be a cheap month lol... I am definitely going to try to find that Moog kit!
#5
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
my guess would be the shocks since it's when ur turning there is more pressure on them especially the top mounts.
have you considered it may possibly be old end links on the front sway bar.
i had a weird noise coming from the rear when i hit certain bumps, thought it was something expensive.. and my mechanic just laughed and said it's the end links.
so i bought the end links and rear sway bar and problem solved.
what type of noise is it. high pitched, deep? brief or somewhat consistent.
have you considered it may possibly be old end links on the front sway bar.
i had a weird noise coming from the rear when i hit certain bumps, thought it was something expensive.. and my mechanic just laughed and said it's the end links.
so i bought the end links and rear sway bar and problem solved.
what type of noise is it. high pitched, deep? brief or somewhat consistent.
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (07-22-2011)
#6
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
Happy to put in my two cents. Just make sure that when you change over to the Teins, that you keep your old mounts. The strut hats don't come with the new Tein set-up. I learned that the hard way when I sold my stock suspension and got my coils. I had to go buy it all again from Acura. But at least its all new now, lol.
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (07-22-2011)
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
my guess would be the shocks since it's when ur turning there is more pressure on them especially the top mounts.
have you considered it may possibly be old end links on the front sway bar.
i had a weird noise coming from the rear when i hit certain bumps, thought it was something expensive.. and my mechanic just laughed and said it's the end links.
so i bought the end links and rear sway bar and problem solved.
what type of noise is it. high pitched, deep? brief or somewhat consistent.
have you considered it may possibly be old end links on the front sway bar.
i had a weird noise coming from the rear when i hit certain bumps, thought it was something expensive.. and my mechanic just laughed and said it's the end links.
so i bought the end links and rear sway bar and problem solved.
what type of noise is it. high pitched, deep? brief or somewhat consistent.
Happy to put in my two cents. Just make sure that when you change over to the Teins, that you keep your old mounts. The strut hats don't come with the new Tein set-up. I learned that the hard way when I sold my stock suspension and got my coils. I had to go buy it all again from Acura. But at least its all new now, lol.
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Could be a bad lower ball joint. If you don't get it checked out you could end up messing your car up really bad.
Check this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...wer+ball+joint
Check this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...wer+ball+joint
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (07-23-2011)
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Hopefully they would have noticed a bad ball joint when doing your alignment (shouldn't have done one if it was bad). The noise sounds like it might be a mad strut plate too. The bushings could be worn out. You wont know until you pull the strut out though. One way to check is to have someone turn the wheel lock to lock slowly and watch the springs/strut rotate. If you see it jumping or binding while its turning thats usually a good sign its worn out. Can get the Moog bushing kit for like 15 bucks a side and just have replaced with the struts...
Also, how about the Acura part # for the upper mount or bushing that the tein's require you reuse? I just assume buy a new one if I'm paying to have the struts disassembled, reassembled and installed!
Thanks
#12
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
yea when i did my tein comfort sport this spring I bought the front upper control arms (expensive) and rear camber kit from wicked tuning (70$ and great quality) and then found out the top mount were a fraction smaller so I had to hone out all the holes for where the strut mounts so it would fit. WHAT a day.
killed a dremel in the process. and the car now rides like a dream.
tein does sell the top mounts seperately but they are like 250-300. and the ones I had were just a hair smaller and i didn't have the luxury of waiting so I just goter dun... and man I am in heaven. cannot even say i had to sacrafice the ride quality. CS all the way
now i just need to stop people from denting my car!
killed a dremel in the process. and the car now rides like a dream.
tein does sell the top mounts seperately but they are like 250-300. and the ones I had were just a hair smaller and i didn't have the luxury of waiting so I just goter dun... and man I am in heaven. cannot even say i had to sacrafice the ride quality. CS all the way
now i just need to stop people from denting my car!
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 07-26-2011 at 03:51 PM.
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (07-26-2011)
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
yea when i did my tein comfort sport this spring I bought the front upper control arms (expensive) and rear camber kit from wicked tuning (70$ and great quality) and then found out the top mount were a fraction smaller so I had to hone out all the holes for where the strut mounts so it would fit. WHAT a day.
killed a dremel in the process. and the car now rides like a dream.
tein does sell the top mounts seperately but they are like 250-300. and the ones I had were just a hair smaller and i didn't have the luxury of waiting so I just goter dun... and man I am in heaven. cannot even say i had to sacrafice the ride quality. CS all the way
killed a dremel in the process. and the car now rides like a dream.
tein does sell the top mounts seperately but they are like 250-300. and the ones I had were just a hair smaller and i didn't have the luxury of waiting so I just goter dun... and man I am in heaven. cannot even say i had to sacrafice the ride quality. CS all the way
AMEN to that!
Oh these are the rims, the ride height is just not pretty yet LOL (and haven't decided what to do with the center caps yet)
#14
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
dude your front passenger caster is WAYYY OFFF..
that si probably the noise u think u are getting.
check your radius rod bushing, if that wears out the entire wheel moves all over the place... I had one go on my car and the alignment was in and out all over the place.
but definately look at your caster bro it looks like it's at 0 degrees. you should be at +3 or so.
your passenger wheel is too far back in the wheel well.
take a tape measurer to ur car and go from rim to rim on one side. then rim to rim on the other side.
you LIKELY will be off by 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch, judging from that picture. and lemme guess.
when u brake the car veers to one side? and u need to counter steer
that si probably the noise u think u are getting.
check your radius rod bushing, if that wears out the entire wheel moves all over the place... I had one go on my car and the alignment was in and out all over the place.
but definately look at your caster bro it looks like it's at 0 degrees. you should be at +3 or so.
your passenger wheel is too far back in the wheel well.
take a tape measurer to ur car and go from rim to rim on one side. then rim to rim on the other side.
you LIKELY will be off by 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch, judging from that picture. and lemme guess.
when u brake the car veers to one side? and u need to counter steer
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (07-27-2011)
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
dude your front passenger caster is WAYYY OFFF..
that si probably the noise u think u are getting.
check your radius rod bushing, if that wears out the entire wheel moves all over the place... I had one go on my car and the alignment was in and out all over the place.
but definately look at your caster bro it looks like it's at 0 degrees. you should be at +3 or so.
your passenger wheel is too far back in the wheel well.
take a tape measurer to ur car and go from rim to rim on one side. then rim to rim on the other side.
you LIKELY will be off by 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch, judging from that picture. and lemme guess.
that si probably the noise u think u are getting.
check your radius rod bushing, if that wears out the entire wheel moves all over the place... I had one go on my car and the alignment was in and out all over the place.
but definately look at your caster bro it looks like it's at 0 degrees. you should be at +3 or so.
your passenger wheel is too far back in the wheel well.
take a tape measurer to ur car and go from rim to rim on one side. then rim to rim on the other side.
you LIKELY will be off by 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch, judging from that picture. and lemme guess.
**Holding off on my rock auto and auto parts tomorrow orders, I confused and am thinking I need something else <SIGH>**
EDIT: And you are completely right :/ S*)T!
Last edited by CLSspeedx; 07-27-2011 at 07:57 AM.
#16
Pro
iTrader: (3)
Ya I noticed that in the picture. This sucks. The alignment shop said I was dead on and my mechanic didn't notice anything bent.
I can't say I notice problems braking. What I do notice, and felt funny mentioning before, is the car drives pretty straight (super slight pull to right), but when I'm stopped at a light with steering wheel straight, when I start to accelerate my steering wheel turn a bit to the right if I am not holding it... I just straighten it out and then it seems to drive fine.
**Holding off on my rock auto and auto parts tomorrow orders, I confused and am thinking I need something else <SIGH>**
EDIT: And you are completely right :/ S*)T!
I can't say I notice problems braking. What I do notice, and felt funny mentioning before, is the car drives pretty straight (super slight pull to right), but when I'm stopped at a light with steering wheel straight, when I start to accelerate my steering wheel turn a bit to the right if I am not holding it... I just straighten it out and then it seems to drive fine.
**Holding off on my rock auto and auto parts tomorrow orders, I confused and am thinking I need something else <SIGH>**
EDIT: And you are completely right :/ S*)T!
#17
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
i just did mine last week u remove the radius rod and u have to grind back the metal so when u put the metal collar (washer) back on (that pinches the bushing) it is further up thus pulling the wheel forward. I've ground mine almost an inch to rid my caster problem of 1.0 variance. and it's mint now. car drives like a dream, after a major accident on the front end
#20
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The radius rod bushing is rubber, if the lower control arm is bent it absolutely can mess with the caster. The radius rod does have limited movement, but movement nonetheless.
#21
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Neejay is looking for some input in regards to the thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-100/control-arm-alignment-843963/
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