types1967

damm i guess im going to have to spend more money now on the emanage.great job steve and brad!!!!!!!!

ModAddict

No I meant by switching the wires around.

scalbert

Ah, gotcha...

ModAddict

Well I wish I had good news,....not just yet.

I changed the rpm and the 5 & 6 ign wiring, and as soon as I started the car, the eman threw the code. I thought that was strange because last night I was able to start it, and drive it around, with no code, until It was pushed. I tried it again with the same results. I then tried to reset the eman by updating the main unit again, rechecked the wiring, and tried again with the same results. I then put the ignition wires back the way they were last night to see if it would act the same way as last night, but It threw the code right away again. I pulled it out and went for a ride, and the car is running smooth and strong, with no codes from the ECU.

So I'm not sure what to think. Last night when it threw the code, all I had to do is turn it off, and restart the car and it was gone. I will check the wiring again and post up on the eman group for some ideas.

99%StockAV6

Maybe you need to wire it in firing order 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6. Keep up the good work.

ModAddict

Success!

The main unit came with the 1.25 firmware upgrade. I downloaded the latest 1.36, and updated the main unit with that, and away she went!

The last thing I need to do is figure out the boost cut-out, because I still bumped something at the top, but no lights, or codes. In theory I should raise the eman boost cut, because the ems is clamped before the signal goes thru the eman and into the ECU. Last night I set all the values to 2.8 v, so if the EMS was 2.92, the eman boost cut-out could have hit. I will re-set the values back to 5v and see how that works.

scalbert

I see you obviously fixed it with the latest firmware...

ModAddict

You need to put the eman end of the ignition harness together, and that's where I crossed 5 & 6. I wired up the ECU harness correct, but the other end was crossed. Once I set the code in the 1.25 firmware, it wouldnt clear. The 1.36 took care of that.

Im thinking about cutting a small section out of the bottom of the glove box to run the eman main cables thru, and mounting the eman inside the glove box.

allmotor_2000

Guys... all the iteration and trouble-shooting is great work, but please compile a final set of wiring instructions and basic startup settings. That would be very appreciated

ModAddict

ModAddict

Steve, we're close, but there is something going on with the boost cut out. All the eman maps are 0'd out and the Boost Cut is back at the max 5v. I can boost right up to 6.5-7 psi, but it cuts out right above 7. I wonder if rotary setting SW-3, "D" is showing a different scale for our MAP sensor. If the eman is seeing twice the voltage our MAP signal is sending it, it would be just over 5v, but the EMS could still be just under it's clamp.

I might be able to record some values,....MAP signal along side rpm.

scalbert

Hopefull my socket will be in this week and I can wire up the harness. But this sounds like we will need to do some data acquisition to determine the source of the problem.

ModAddict

Well it's not boost related. The EMS must be clamped at 2.73V It's working fine. It apears to be RPM related, and it's hiting at just over 5200 rpm,.... so my guess is Vtec related. I'll recheck the wiring and jumpers. By the way, as you said, the new RPM pinout is tracking the RPM corrrectly.

ModAddict

BTW I was able to record the data, and analyse it, but I could not figure out how to post it here.

ModAddict

Steve, will you study the jumper settings? My wiring is correct, but there is a discreprency in the jumper settings. JP-2 in the install manual says for vtec use 1-2, but we have used 2-3. When I pull up the "Main Unit Setting Information", as shown on page 13 of the support tool manual, the "airflow meter 2", "airflow meter pulse input", and "airflow meter pulse output" are all blank, as compared to the maual, filled with the v-tec info.

ModAddict

or,

even study the way the main unit install manual says to wire the vtec into, and out of, the ECU.

ModAddict

The S2000 uses the 1-2 setting for JP-2.

tool462

I just want to tell you guys that I have been watching this thread since it was about the uni chip and I just want to thank you guys for your work. I plan on buying the E-man pending your success. Do you guys plan on doing any dyno tuning? If so I would like to donate cash to the gunnie pig because I for one understand how it feels to be the "first" and spend endless hours on a dyno working out little bugs and then other people would do the same mod and spend an hour on the dyno because they know all the short cuts. So let me know, I would gladly throw a hundred bucks towards the cause !!!

Thanks again, Andy

MtBikR

I agree with Andy and want to express my gratitude and offer to help w/ the expenses involved in developing a harness so the rest of us can benefit from your hard work and initiative. Thanks again.

types1967

make some noise!!!!!!!!!!!!!

scalbert

JP2 is supposed to only have to do with the ignition signal voltage level, 5VDC or 12VDC. The information in the software reports this is correct showing 12VDC which is what our ignition uses, at least at idle.

I'll check this level again on Thursday and do it at high load with the scope.

scalbert

Got that, I simulated it on the bench with a 12VDC light and a switch for the input. When I brough the revs up the light turned on and when I flipped the switch the input showed that it was on.

scalbert

Not sure why they would use 5VDC for an ignition coil trigger signal but anything is possible. Again, I'll verify this Thursday with the scope in the car and with load on the engine.

scalbert

Yes, I actually expect to be on the rollers nearly all day as I want to capture various stages, with and without the intercooler.

Actually since the e-Manage will be PnP I want to get a baseline run with the Comptech FPR providing the only fuel enrichment. Next add the e-Manage, tune it and see what the gains are. Then add the intercooler, re-tune and see what the gains are. Then maybe, if available, swap pulleys for even more boost and see where we are at.

types1967

hey steve hows the ic project coming along?

scalbert

Slow, I haven't been pressing the shop as I am embroiled with other projects including this e-Manage. I stopped by thhe machine shop yesterday and he wanted to know how urgent it is. I told him not to put anything on the side as I am not ready. I would prefer to have the e-Manage in place and operating so as not to worry about tuning twice.

types1967

your right thats smart so you can tune the car the way you want it before the ic so you can pull timing out with the temp drop with the ic.its really great work you and brad are doing.the only question is whats next after the e-manage and ic lol we need to fix the wheel hop otherwise we cant put the power we need to the ground!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. well i sent my tb out to king to get ported yesterday and im waiting on dean to send me my bpipe i ordered so after all thats installed im getting a dyno done to see what im putting to the pavement.

ModAddict

It's like I've got a rev limit right at 5200 rpm.

So what is the worst that could happen it I turned the ignition on only, not running, with the JP-2 at the lower voltage setting? I'm just curious if the settings in the main unit would show up with with the vtec info in the Airflow meter #2 boxes.

ModAddict

Just a shot in the dark here, but maybe when JP-7 is set for vtec, an assumed 12v value is sent to where JP-2 is looking for it, and enables the vtec settings when JP-2 is set to 1-2, and JP-7 is left open.

allmotor_2000

Actually with the IC, you'd take 'less' timing out due to the cooling effect of the intake charge.

types1967

my mistake brad you are correct

ModAddict

not me

types1967

oh yea all motor lol.well brad it seems your working out the situation little by little thats great!!!!!!!

ModAddict

Didn't make any difference, tried it at the 1-2 setting,...car ran fine, still had the cutout up high,...and nothing different in the main unit settings screen.





Here's a story I was told. The newer honda vtec cars do not change over using RPM as the only trigger. It also takes into account load values along with RPM. The differing changeover points from the ECU, can cause conflicting fuel maps from the emanage at the fixed RPM. Others have let the ecu control the vtec by not sending it thru the eman, but still send the signal to the eman to let it know it's on or off. I don't know if this is fact or not, just a story I was told, by an S2000 owner getting ready to install a turbo set up using the eman.

ModAddict

I sure hope I get this thing working,....


http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...t=7&thecat=500

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=20429

allmotor_2000

I am fairly certain it doesn't use load. It's RPM and oil pressure, I believe. What happens if you don't hook up the VTEC at all? Is it boost-dependant or RPM dependant.. your cutout, that is? Is it possible the ECU is running in cold-start mode?

JaDia4

I don't know if this will help, but a couple weeks ago on a highway I slowly accelerated while in 2nd gear using SS. I paid close attention to see if the VTEC would kick in at 4800-5100 RPM. As far as I could tell it didn't. I don't recall at what RPM's I changed to 3rd. Probably around 5500 RPM, but I never noticed any "VTEC kick-in". So I think you'd have to be doing some more agressive driving to get it to work. Does that help any?

scalbert

Well, I don't know what the heck I read before on the scope but now it is showing a 5VDC coil signal. I thought I previously saw 5V/Div on the scope but this time it was showing 2V/Div. Perhaps the Autorange shifted on me quickly. Butt this time I set the range to manual and confirmed 2V/Div with 2.5 divisions taken up.

So try out having JP2 at 1-2, 5VDC ignition signal. It might be that the rise and fall time to support the 12VDC signal.

ModAddict

scalbert

The easiest way to solve this is to isolate the problem by removing functions one at a time to find the problem. I would start by bypassing the VTEC signals around the e-Manage and see if that makes a difference. If it does then I would try to determine what part of the VTEC signal system is incorrect, etc.

BTW, I got my connectors in and will make my harness today or tomorrow.