DO YOU HAVE TO BLEED BRAKES LINES AFTER doing BRakes?
DO YOU HAVE TO BLEED BRAKES LINES AFTER doing BRakes?
HI guys,
I was just wondering if it was necessary to bleed the brake lines after doing a rear or front brake job.
Different people are telling me different things. Some say you have to and some say you don't have to.
what do you guys think?
I changed the rear brakes on my CL and I was wondering if I should bleed the brake lines.
When mechanisc do your brakes, do they really bleed your lines too?
I was just wondering if it was necessary to bleed the brake lines after doing a rear or front brake job.
Different people are telling me different things. Some say you have to and some say you don't have to.
what do you guys think?
I changed the rear brakes on my CL and I was wondering if I should bleed the brake lines.
When mechanisc do your brakes, do they really bleed your lines too?
Yes but compressing the caliper to install the new pads can cause bubbles in the brake lines. Bleeding the brakes after changing the pads or rotors is always recommended.
Some will claim that air can't be introduced because we have a closed system but I've seen many argue that it doesn't prevent it. Better safe then sorry. Brakes and tires are the 2 things you shouldn't mess around with. Do it right plus it only takes a minute.
Just did mine. I opened the valves a bit as I compressed the pistons. Then closed them. ( I use a big C-clamp from Home Depot) After it was all done I opened the valves a little and let the fluid run a bit. No problems. I drove 1000 miles in two days after that.
One thing you must do is get all the rust off the hub and the inside of the rotor.
Use a wire wheel on a drill or air tool. Don't grind into the hub. Blow it clean. You can also apply a thin coat of non hardening gasket cement to the hub. The copper color stuff, not silicone. Then wipe as much off as you can with a finger. It will compress as you tighten the wheels.
If you don't clean it real well you will get a shimmy when you brake hard. Hondas and Acuras seem to do that a lot.
One thing you must do is get all the rust off the hub and the inside of the rotor.
Use a wire wheel on a drill or air tool. Don't grind into the hub. Blow it clean. You can also apply a thin coat of non hardening gasket cement to the hub. The copper color stuff, not silicone. Then wipe as much off as you can with a finger. It will compress as you tighten the wheels.
If you don't clean it real well you will get a shimmy when you brake hard. Hondas and Acuras seem to do that a lot.
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As long as you don't crack the lines open & get air into the system there's no need. I never did it on any car I only replaced the pads/rotors on.
Now that's not to say that getting the old fluid out & new fluid in isn't important. That's needed, but isn't needed when actually doing the brakes as per above. I've don it after a few hundred miles of doing the brakes.
Now that's not to say that getting the old fluid out & new fluid in isn't important. That's needed, but isn't needed when actually doing the brakes as per above. I've don it after a few hundred miles of doing the brakes.
As long as you don't crack the lines open & get air into the system there's no need. I never did it on any car I only replaced the pads/rotors on.
Now that's not to say that getting the old fluid out & new fluid in isn't important. That's needed, but isn't needed when actually doing the brakes as per above. I've don it after a few hundred miles of doing the brakes.
Now that's not to say that getting the old fluid out & new fluid in isn't important. That's needed, but isn't needed when actually doing the brakes as per above. I've don it after a few hundred miles of doing the brakes.
If you want to make life 10x easier, pick up speed bleeders.
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed/import.shtml
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed/import.shtml
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