DIY: HOW TO Shave Your Fenders w/ Pictures
#1
DIY: HOW TO Shave Your Fenders w/ Pictures
Tools:
-Dewault 4.5" Grinder (Roughly $40) Includes Disc (the one I used)
-Extension Cord
-Good gloves (there will be sparks and heat)
-Eye protection (there will be sparks!)
-Rag/Towel (hopefully free)
-Car Jack from your trunk (free)
-Sandpaper
-I used Krylon Gloss Black Rust Proof Spray Paint
-Small brush
-Tupperware Cup
Estimated time involved: 1.5-2 hours
Warning: This is merely a guide to follow. I nor acurazine directs YOU to do this yourself. Professional knowledge is required.
Directions:
Step 0 - Get Your Supplies
Step 1 - Engage parking brake. Jack your car up as much as possible while still maintaing contact between the ground and your tire.
Step 2 - Place a towel over your tire to protect it. There will be debris and spark.
Step 3 - Please, safety first. Get yourself a good pair of gloves and eye protection. THERE WILL BE SPARKS AND DEBRIS.
Step 4 - Plug in your extension cord and grinder. I suggest this last because you never know what can happen especially if little kids are around.
Step 5 - Begin grinding. I know. I was EXTREMELY cautious at grinding into my fender. But it isn't so bad folks. You can get a little aggressive with it. I found the most natural stroke was from the front of the fender towards the rear. Granted you may not get it perfectly down, but no one is going to see it. Occasionally stop grinding and feel with your hands if you can yank any debris off. I noticed that the plastic liner could easily be torn off the edge while grinding.
Step 6 - Examine. Notice where I did it. Theres really no need to do the entire lip, but you can if you wish. Note, this solved all my rubbing problems.
Step 7 - Time for paint. I sprayed into a little cup, then used a small brush to paint the lip. I had my g/f do this because I don't have a steady hand. But it's not so bad. Be sure to do this step because if you don't, the metal WILL start to rust.
Step 8 - Our finished product. Ah, nice and clean.
-Dewault 4.5" Grinder (Roughly $40) Includes Disc (the one I used)
-Extension Cord
-Good gloves (there will be sparks and heat)
-Eye protection (there will be sparks!)
-Rag/Towel (hopefully free)
-Car Jack from your trunk (free)
-Sandpaper
-I used Krylon Gloss Black Rust Proof Spray Paint
-Small brush
-Tupperware Cup
Estimated time involved: 1.5-2 hours
Warning: This is merely a guide to follow. I nor acurazine directs YOU to do this yourself. Professional knowledge is required.
Directions:
Step 0 - Get Your Supplies
Step 1 - Engage parking brake. Jack your car up as much as possible while still maintaing contact between the ground and your tire.
Step 2 - Place a towel over your tire to protect it. There will be debris and spark.
Step 3 - Please, safety first. Get yourself a good pair of gloves and eye protection. THERE WILL BE SPARKS AND DEBRIS.
Step 4 - Plug in your extension cord and grinder. I suggest this last because you never know what can happen especially if little kids are around.
Step 5 - Begin grinding. I know. I was EXTREMELY cautious at grinding into my fender. But it isn't so bad folks. You can get a little aggressive with it. I found the most natural stroke was from the front of the fender towards the rear. Granted you may not get it perfectly down, but no one is going to see it. Occasionally stop grinding and feel with your hands if you can yank any debris off. I noticed that the plastic liner could easily be torn off the edge while grinding.
Step 6 - Examine. Notice where I did it. Theres really no need to do the entire lip, but you can if you wish. Note, this solved all my rubbing problems.
Step 7 - Time for paint. I sprayed into a little cup, then used a small brush to paint the lip. I had my g/f do this because I don't have a steady hand. But it's not so bad. Be sure to do this step because if you don't, the metal WILL start to rust.
Step 8 - Our finished product. Ah, nice and clean.
#5
I now drive an accord....
Oh, One of two things would happen if I did that
1. I would have a big hole in my fender
2. I would have a flat tire
Rolling fenders is a lot safer method, but props on the DIY
1. I would have a big hole in my fender
2. I would have a flat tire
Rolling fenders is a lot safer method, but props on the DIY
#6
wish i had taken photos before. problem i had was the lip sticks out too far.
i heard too many stories of people bringing their car to a body shop, the shop heating their fenders, then rolling them with a baseball bat, then the paint chipping days later why not just eliminate the problem all together?
i didn't have to remove my wheels or even leave me driveway, sort of. you decide.
i heard too many stories of people bringing their car to a body shop, the shop heating their fenders, then rolling them with a baseball bat, then the paint chipping days later why not just eliminate the problem all together?
i didn't have to remove my wheels or even leave me driveway, sort of. you decide.
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#11
Missing my Acura's
Nice job. The reason alot of people dont do this because the edges can turn out real sharp. Rolling the fenders if done correct, Is the second option. The real best option is buy the right size wheel.
#19
TQ > MPG
You guys are nuts, rolling the fenders causes much more problems. It stresses the paint which can lead to cracking, and even after they are rolled you can still rub. Grinding the part that is rubbing will absolutely solve the gring problem and wont fuck up the paint if you do it right.
I've done this on 3 cars and its worked great. Its how I fit 315/35/17 tires on my mustang.
I've done this on 3 cars and its worked great. Its how I fit 315/35/17 tires on my mustang.
#20
thanks joe. i got the idea from my uncle who builds american muscle cars. he did this to 2 camaros and a nova. he did a lot better job bc he had the wheel off and it was on a lift. but yes, i agree this is the best way to eliminate rubbing and not have to worry about paint/bends...
fronts have nothin to shave.
fronts have nothin to shave.
#24
Moderator Alumnus
Originally Posted by rp_guy
couple questions:
1. why didn't you jack it up and put it on stands?
2. why isn't there anything to do in the front ?
3. how is it now ?
1. why didn't you jack it up and put it on stands?
2. why isn't there anything to do in the front ?
3. how is it now ?
I'm sure he'll answer your question tomorrow.
#25
1. There was no need to remove the wheel, so there was no need to put it on stands. I jacked it up until the wheel came off the ground, then lowered it until touching for support, why make extra work for yourself?
2. Go look at your front fenders, there is no lip, just a liner.
3. Fine. No rust, and the lip didn't grow back. ;]
2. Go look at your front fenders, there is no lip, just a liner.
3. Fine. No rust, and the lip didn't grow back. ;]
#27
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
I don't know man. What about rust? NYC too. You get the wells packed with salt & snow.
Anything I ever cut or grinded has rusted on me. Even with a coat of paint.
Anything I ever cut or grinded has rusted on me. Even with a coat of paint.
#28
I now drive an accord....
Originally Posted by CleanCL
i got a 4x4
#32
Originally Posted by smokendsm
Just wondering what kind of risk there is for the tire if it ever hits that fender? (If that is even possible?)
#33
imho, i would have rolled them. all you need to do is take a wooden baseball bat, wedge it between the tire and wheel, and gently put pressure on and roll the bat. works perfect every time, and anyone can do it. if done the right way, the paint stays intact. no rust issue in the future, and the edges stay factory smooth.
#34
Originally Posted by CleanCL
well mines a 2004... so im not worried about rust. =]
#36
ridin slow'n'low
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
what do you mean, after it's been shaved? i can't see any more of a risk than if it wasn't shaved. i ground it down and then sanded it, it's smooth as hell.
#39
the pictures aren't exactly a great representation... its smooth as hell and there is no rust, there is nothing to 'shred' or 'cut' the tire on. anyone who says this is stupid has not been around cars who run wide wheels. almost everyone grinds the lip away and then pulls the fender. rolling the lip is the shortcut easy method that eventually causes your paint to chip and doesn't look as clean. i did this quickly in about 30 mins, eventually i plan to go back and grind out the entire lip, and then sand it down so it looks perfect. then i will put paint/clearcoat on and it won't rust either. you guys keep thinking this will shred the tire and i will continue to run a 17x8 wheel w/ 235/45 tire and not have any issues.
#40
ridin slow'n'low
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I didn't say it will shred tire, but was simply wondering. I'm gonna do the same when I get some spare time. Is it doable with a dremel and a cutoff wheel or is grinding it away is the only viable way?
Thanks.
Thanks.