dba (Disk Brake Australia) Rotors Installed *Pics*
06-09-2007, 01:56 PM
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dba (Disk Brake Australia) Rotors Installed *Pics*
Well the Rotora Slotted rotors had 60k+ miles on them and it was time for a replacement. They had begun to wear down; actually they were worn down to shit.
I almost bought another set of Rotoras but I decided to try something a little different and something that I hadn't seen posted in here yet.
So I purchased dba 4000's for the front (they don't make rear rotors for our application). They are more expensive than the Rotoras ($120/each) but I figured why the hell not.
I paired them up with EBC RedStuff pads this time around. I was never pleased with the Hawk HPS pads; not to mention they ate up my rotors.
Sorry for the blurry pics. I was in a hurry and didn't realize they came out so shitty.
Temperature indicators:
Destroyed/Warped Rotoras:
I almost bought another set of Rotoras but I decided to try something a little different and something that I hadn't seen posted in here yet.
So I purchased dba 4000's for the front (they don't make rear rotors for our application). They are more expensive than the Rotoras ($120/each) but I figured why the hell not.
I paired them up with EBC RedStuff pads this time around. I was never pleased with the Hawk HPS pads; not to mention they ate up my rotors.
Sorry for the blurry pics. I was in a hurry and didn't realize they came out so shitty.
Temperature indicators:
Destroyed/Warped Rotoras:
06-09-2007, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TCM 01 CL-S
Those look pretty nice, how do those temperature indicators work?
Also, the vanes within the vented disk are not straight cut like on the Rotora brakes. They have a different design that supposedly will dissipate heat better.
06-09-2007, 02:24 PM
#7
yea, i just saw the car talk thread. looks interesting. btw - the EBC redstuff i run on an SC400, pretty happy with them, they give good braking both cold and hot, and the dust isn't anything ridiculous. one thing i noticed after about 15-20K miles they started squeeking a bit, but theres still plenty of life on them at 20K miles with moderate-heavy street use.
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06-09-2007, 02:32 PM
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My Hawk HPS Street pads were toast. The difference between the new EBC pads and the Hawk pads I pulled off today was more than a 1/2"
I never liked them. Won't ever purchase them again.
It's obviously going to take me a few days to determine how I like the EBC pads. The only driving I've done is around the neighborhood to bed the pads.
I never liked them. Won't ever purchase them again.
It's obviously going to take me a few days to determine how I like the EBC pads. The only driving I've done is around the neighborhood to bed the pads.
06-09-2007, 05:35 PM
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Either the Rotora or these dba's make a fine replacement to the stock rotors.
A pair of these dba rotors were $60+ more than a pair of Rotoras. I got free shipping though which probably saved me $20.
I still gotta do the rears in the coming weeks. I'll probably be hitting up Excelerate for some Rotora rear rotors and pads. SS lines too probably since they're only $110.
Might go with OEM rotors if they're significantly cheaper though.
A pair of these dba rotors were $60+ more than a pair of Rotoras. I got free shipping though which probably saved me $20.
I still gotta do the rears in the coming weeks. I'll probably be hitting up Excelerate for some Rotora rear rotors and pads. SS lines too probably since they're only $110.
Might go with OEM rotors if they're significantly cheaper though.
06-09-2007, 05:37 PM
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I was always wondering about those rotors. Interesting design and temperature indicators are pretty damn cool. I never thought you could wear down slotted rotors down to the slots either. Very impressive..
Wish I read your opinion on hawk HPS pads before too. Maybe the reason I didn't like my legend calipers were because these pads sorta suck.
Let us know how you like those rotors! I'll definitely pick up a pair of those next time.
Wish I read your opinion on hawk HPS pads before too. Maybe the reason I didn't like my legend calipers were because these pads sorta suck.
Let us know how you like those rotors! I'll definitely pick up a pair of those next time.
06-09-2007, 05:39 PM
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06-09-2007, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Scratch that. OEM rotors are only $5 cheaper than the Rotoras.
Bout $40 cheaper than rotoras for the set shipped..
06-09-2007, 07:12 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Either the Rotora or these dba's make a fine replacement to the stock rotors.
Originally Posted by smokendsm
Brembo OE rotors are $59 ea from tirerack (plus shipping).
Bout $40 cheaper than rotoras for the set shipped..
Bout $40 cheaper than rotoras for the set shipped..
Ugh.. There are so many brake pads out there and about a thousand threads about different pads here...
I might just cheap out and go with the Brembo OE's and Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads since I don't know how much longer I'm going to keep my CL...
But it's nice to know that you can get 60K out of the Rotoras
06-09-2007, 07:16 PM
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Those look really nice. I am at 52K right now on my TL and have to start thinking about new rotors and pads. The ones that were thrown on the car when I got it in December are crap and now when I break I feel like its wobbling or something.
Has anyone heard of "BrakePerformance" slotted and drilled rotors? They look pretty nice and they have a guarantee not to warp or crack.
http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...icle_type_id=1
Has anyone heard of "BrakePerformance" slotted and drilled rotors? They look pretty nice and they have a guarantee not to warp or crack.
http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...icle_type_id=1
06-09-2007, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by INSPIRE 32V
they look good and u should really do something bout those calipers. sand them down and paint them black or better yeat silver and they will look brand new
Don't really care about how the calipers look honestly. Maybe I'll get around to painting them black but it's low on my list of priorities.
06-10-2007, 09:03 PM
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EBCs typically need a few hundred to break in, then you should bed them in
06-10-2007, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
EBCs typically need a few hundred to break in, then you should bed them in
I already did the "bedding process"
I suppose I'll give it a try again later this week after a few miles are put on 'em.
06-10-2007, 10:25 PM
#30
Originally Posted by mrsteve
Anyone looking for new rotors... skip the drilled ones. It's typically 90% show.
06-10-2007, 11:55 PM
#33
i assume you are talking about OEM size blanks that are cross drilled since this thread is about OEM size rotors, in which case you would be correct because you are effectively reducing the surface area of the already stock size rotor by drilling holes into it. but if you have 13"+ rotors that are cross drilled on all 4 corners with multiple pistons per caliper, i'd like to see you try and crack them.
06-11-2007, 02:46 PM
#37
Originally Posted by nbennettksu
porsche, bmw, etc. quit running cross-drilled because they cracked on their race cars. Now they put them on their cars simply for looks...on our cars no, you're right...you'd never crack them w/ 4 or 6 piston cals.
06-11-2007, 09:40 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by nbennettksu
porsche, bmw, etc. quit running cross-drilled because they cracked on their race cars. Now they put them on their cars simply for looks...on our cars no, you're right...you'd never crack them w/ 4 or 6 piston cals.
06-11-2007, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mclarenf3387
Have you seen a BMW WTCC Car lately? You may want to rethink that statement.
Originally Posted by nbennetksu
porsche, bmw, etc. quit running cross-drilled because they cracked on their race cars. Now they put them on their cars simply for looks...on our cars no, you're right...you'd never crack them w/ 4 or 6 piston cals.
06-11-2007, 10:45 PM
#40
first of all, look at what mrsteve put in post 23, "90% for show." the m5 and m6 have cross-drilled as well (along with the m3 competition package). and yes, it is to look pretty. same as porsche (them and brembo have a deal worked out). do you honestly think that MB c-class sport models need cross-drilled or any other kind of performance brake set up; or any street car for that matter? no, they don't. I'm not talking about for just ordinary, every day driving. of course you're not going to get the rotors hot/cold/hot/cold/hot/cold like you would on racing vehicles. Yes, cross-drilled help transfer the gases from the rotors better than solid rotors help funnel out the gasses even better than drilled, also without sacrificing the strength of the rotor. based on pure performance, slotted is the way to go. what do you think formula1 cars run? cross-drilled? negative.
to prove my point: http://www.dinancars.com/Series.asp?...%20Tuning#2264
and FTW "Extensive testing on the street and at the track has enabled us to develop custom systems that have been tuned for optimum performance] while avoiding the foibles of typical “big brake kits”, such as unbalanced proportioning, poor pedal feel and unacceptable noise levels, just to name a few..."
to prove my point: http://www.dinancars.com/Series.asp?...%20Tuning#2264
and FTW "Extensive testing on the street and at the track has enabled us to develop custom systems that have been tuned for optimum performance] while avoiding the foibles of typical “big brake kits”, such as unbalanced proportioning, poor pedal feel and unacceptable noise levels, just to name a few..."