CT headers HELPPPP?
#2
Blown is Best
I didn't remove the beam when I did mine.
Do you have a set of Comptech installation instructions?
http://www.comptechusa.com/store/med...ons/ins028.pdf
Do you have a set of Comptech installation instructions?
http://www.comptechusa.com/store/med...ons/ins028.pdf
#3
Don't Mess With Texas
Originally Posted by VinceBlkCLS
If anyone can help me or has a link on how to get the center BEAM off also what tool is needed a breaker bar??? or what
#6
Don't Mess With Texas
Originally Posted by VinceBlkCLS
Why a torch heat expands the metal how would it make it come off???
you directly heat the NUT not the BOLT part. get it pretty nice and red hot, and then it should come off easy as can be. headaches are cut down to a minumum. just be careful. its a freakin torch. it can burn you lol./
im sure you could rent one somewhere for cheap.
#7
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Help with your Header install
Yo, man, the comptech headers can be installed w/o removing that brace. I did the job myself. Here is the story of my install.
First off, I have a little craftsman air compressor which is usually enough to break loose all bolts. I was quoted 200-250 to do this job by the dealer. Job looks too easy to justify paying that amount. With that info here is my install. (FYI, I used all the install info I could find here in the fourms and CT instructions.
Jacked up front of car and placed on jack stands, As high as I could. Got under and prepared to remove J-pipe bolts. Little aircompressor couldn't break loose those exhaust nut/bolts. I couldn't break it loose by hand due to laying on back on floor of garage. Decided, F-it, I'm running to Costco and buying that nice full size compressor from Coleman for $260 bucks. Instead of paying for labor, I bought a new tool to add to my Costco Bad Boy Stainless Steel tool Chest. Who knows what I'm talking about people? Unpacked that baby, got under the car and Wah-La, cracked all those bolts off like butter. Be sure to support the rear exhaust portion, DO NOT ALLOW the secondary O2 sensor to support it.
Next, you will need a 12mm wrench. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a wrench that has the "ratching" mechnism in the circular end and that the "neck" can piviot/rotate. With this you will be able to get to the nuts on the headers and break them free while on your back and in a VERY TIGHT SITUATION with your hands up behind the rear manifold for removal and installation.
I found that it was necessary to remove the ONE front fan shoud to make it easier to litterly drop the front header down and on. It's easy. Uncouple a few plugs, unbolt a couple of things and the shroud should just lift up and you shoul be able to place it off to the side of the engine bay. FYI, I invested in new header gaskets. About $20 each at the dealer and FYI, they are made of metal. Better safe then sorry, and believe me, you don't want to every go back and do this job again if you happen to incurr an exhaust leak. My thinking was that the gaskets are like crush washers, to be used only once. But CT says you can reuse.
Install the headers F/R but leave the nuts loose/snug. Once you hook up the J-pipe snug/loose, start tighting the header nuts and then exhaust bolts.
Hook back up primary O2, recheck work & replace fan.
No extra nuts or bolt right? Then, push all tools out of the way, lower car, and before you start it, pray that you don't get a Check Engine Light. Fire it up, and let it warm. Let ECU get warm. Go for a regular drive for a mile or 2, then stomp it. Sounds and feels like a V-8. Wait till you feel the power between 5k-7k.
Hope this helps give you the courage to DIY.
First off, I have a little craftsman air compressor which is usually enough to break loose all bolts. I was quoted 200-250 to do this job by the dealer. Job looks too easy to justify paying that amount. With that info here is my install. (FYI, I used all the install info I could find here in the fourms and CT instructions.
Jacked up front of car and placed on jack stands, As high as I could. Got under and prepared to remove J-pipe bolts. Little aircompressor couldn't break loose those exhaust nut/bolts. I couldn't break it loose by hand due to laying on back on floor of garage. Decided, F-it, I'm running to Costco and buying that nice full size compressor from Coleman for $260 bucks. Instead of paying for labor, I bought a new tool to add to my Costco Bad Boy Stainless Steel tool Chest. Who knows what I'm talking about people? Unpacked that baby, got under the car and Wah-La, cracked all those bolts off like butter. Be sure to support the rear exhaust portion, DO NOT ALLOW the secondary O2 sensor to support it.
Next, you will need a 12mm wrench. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a wrench that has the "ratching" mechnism in the circular end and that the "neck" can piviot/rotate. With this you will be able to get to the nuts on the headers and break them free while on your back and in a VERY TIGHT SITUATION with your hands up behind the rear manifold for removal and installation.
I found that it was necessary to remove the ONE front fan shoud to make it easier to litterly drop the front header down and on. It's easy. Uncouple a few plugs, unbolt a couple of things and the shroud should just lift up and you shoul be able to place it off to the side of the engine bay. FYI, I invested in new header gaskets. About $20 each at the dealer and FYI, they are made of metal. Better safe then sorry, and believe me, you don't want to every go back and do this job again if you happen to incurr an exhaust leak. My thinking was that the gaskets are like crush washers, to be used only once. But CT says you can reuse.
Install the headers F/R but leave the nuts loose/snug. Once you hook up the J-pipe snug/loose, start tighting the header nuts and then exhaust bolts.
Hook back up primary O2, recheck work & replace fan.
No extra nuts or bolt right? Then, push all tools out of the way, lower car, and before you start it, pray that you don't get a Check Engine Light. Fire it up, and let it warm. Let ECU get warm. Go for a regular drive for a mile or 2, then stomp it. Sounds and feels like a V-8. Wait till you feel the power between 5k-7k.
Hope this helps give you the courage to DIY.
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#8
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Thanks a lot but air tools is not a option for me I have none so I got a breaker bar instead. I read and heard if I cant take those three bolts off thats exhaust then take the whole thing off not the mullfers. Useing the breaker bar thats what I am doing tomorrow I am skipping school after my first class so I would have time to do this. College rules thought because they just dont give a crap.
#10
Don't Mess With Texas
Originally Posted by Chuco
I wouldn't attempt it w/o proper tools. But best of luck, I watch this to see how it plays out. I'd pay the 250 to have it installed pal.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Ha, I had 80K on my car and didnt use any air tools even though I have access to them. It was more cumbersome trying to fit the air tools into position to use them.
Get some PB Blaster and spray all the nuts with this and let it sit for about an hour. Come out and try breaking as many bolts as you can. The ones you can't, Respray and let sit for another hour.
Like Chuco said, the key to removing the bots from near the firewall is to use the adjustable head ratchet wrench. They are great because you can angle the head to reach around. You will tear up your arm using this, but it is the easiest way to do it. If you need extra leverage on a wrench, put the box end of another wrench on the end of the wrench you are using and this will give you better force.
Get some PB Blaster and spray all the nuts with this and let it sit for about an hour. Come out and try breaking as many bolts as you can. The ones you can't, Respray and let sit for another hour.
Like Chuco said, the key to removing the bots from near the firewall is to use the adjustable head ratchet wrench. They are great because you can angle the head to reach around. You will tear up your arm using this, but it is the easiest way to do it. If you need extra leverage on a wrench, put the box end of another wrench on the end of the wrench you are using and this will give you better force.
#12
Racer
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Hardest work I ever had to do in my entire life. I did it with a friend only hand tools, torque wrench and a breaker bar. OMG took me from 12 30 to 5 30 I was late for work and everything. The hardest part is the connection the exhaust I nearly strip almost all the nuts but I got the crap off. Then I had to manuever under there and take the manifold off the downpipe nearly strip one of those bolts also. The I had to take the back manifold off with it still attach to d pipe for an hour then figured to take bolt off. This was so hard because of the rusted nuts and bolts I have 72k miles my next step is a TEST PIPE so all I need is some mufflers anyone have any or knows a place???? But in all I am sorry I feel the power and everything I kind of expected more and I Jet Hot them also sterling silver. It is not over yet I want that blower that will satisfy my hunger power. P.S. the most important thing is to have a friend in this situation.
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