mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Threw a CEL today. Code P0172. It happened when I started the car a few minutes following filling up with fuel. The car is also idling low (like 500 rpms) and still has the "stutter" I described before at 2k rpms.

MAF sensor?
Injectors?
Pump?
FPR?

The car is going in tomorrow afternoon. Anyone have opinions?

phipark

I have that "stutter" too, but I'm not supercharged.

Smitty

Air intake control valve... told you like 5 times.. have it checked out or cleaned with some injector cleaner.

mrsteve

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It's been checked and it was told it was set properly.


I'll be sure it is re-checked and cleaned when I drop it off.

allmotor_2000

That code is set when the ECU is correcting > 18% for fuel... what is your fuel pressure?

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

40psi at idle about 80psi at WOT. Too low at WOT compared to everyone else so I haven't boosted it in about 10 days.

allmotor_2000

Well the code is thrown while you are at idle... and since the fuel pressure looks okay, you could have a stuck-open injector (unlikely) or bad O2 sensor.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I drove about 70 miles today, if the injector was stuck open I'm sure my engine would have hydro-locked by now from fuel sitting in it at idle. My primary O2 was replaced this summer.

I'll know more Thursday when they get a look at it.

Thanks for the help.


I'm also assuming that the "Bank 1" part of the code is irrelevant given that the O2 sensor is about 30 inches down the "J" pipe. I don't see how the sensor could distinguish between the two cylinder banks.

power3dfx

that is odd, mine hits over 100 psi at wot and it does it any time you punch it! i have almost 40 psi at idle so that seems fine.
the code you are throwing, as allmotor pointed out, is at idle, i had a similar code but mine was "too lean" instead of too rich.
if you have trouble getting this resolved, maybe the FP should be lowered a bit, it could help and if it doesnt, its pretty easy to take it back up.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I just had the FP increased because it was too low (20psi) and the car was stalling. I set the fuel pressure to about 65 psi w/o vaccum which is where it should be. I'm thinking its the fuel pump or possibly a vaccum issue, i'll find out tomorrow.

sgmotoring

In PARK when you tap on your gas to about 3500rpm, does your tech drop below your normal rpm at idle and rise back up? If so just replace the IAC valve. I think you need to fixed your idle problem before checking other things.

Smitty

exactly.... Steve has multi problems and high mileage on that IAC vavle.. 73K + (I think).

tell them to install a new one....

but Like I expressed to you Steve, I think that pump line is blocking the bleed valve on the pump and is causing the pump to not operate correctly.. it happened to me and as soon as I pulled the pump I knew that it could be a contirbuting factor... thank goodness I swapped the pump and have not had an issue yet... just make sure you express to them that the line coming out of the top of the Fuel pump is NOT to cover the bleeder or else the pump might fail again.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I wrote a letter directly to the tech when I dropped the car off stating check the following:

IAC and clean throttle body
Check fuel line on pump to be sure bleed valve isn't covered
check all vaccum lines
check FPR

I dropped it off last night and haven't heard anything yet.

dets

Hey steve, this might sound wierd but..........


Fuel filter??? i'll just shoot that out there.



Sometimes the simple approach is the best. Pullies, chargers, icv valves, bleed screws, got i have a headache already. We have better technology on my rally car and still i don't jump to the worst conclusion first.

It sounds like the fuel filter. or definately a fuel problem, 100%. Of course, i could be wrong.


Good luck.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I actually think it is exactly what Smitty said given his experience with similar problems. They didn't call me today so we'll see if I hear back tomorrow.

Fuel pressure is goes to 92-95psi at WOT in like 4th or 5th. But in lower gears as soon as boost comes on fuel pressure drops. Leads me to believe what Smitty described... fuel pump is trying to bleed but is being blocked.

dets

92-95 psi???


Hey steve, smitty, you see these psi numbers in your car???? damn, thats high as hell.

I'm adjusted for 42 psi on my rally car. Somewhere around the same for the M3.


Pumping 42 Psi on my rally car with a Walbro is plenty, but i have never seen those types of numbers on a street car that isn't dragging.


but hey, i've never worked on acura's before, so i'm just here to listen up anyway.

Smitty

CL-S does not have a fuel filter... it has a fuel suction filter below the fuel pump, but I highly doubt that is jammed up.

He should be pegging 100 psi when he applies full throttle, the pressure should then drop to 95 psi...

yes this set-up is hard on the CL-S fuel system... but once he has the Intercooler in place he will be able to lower his fuel pressure some...and the intercooler will help preserve the top half of his forced induction beast.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

If I blow it up i'll just throw 10.0:1 pistons in it, run the 10psi pulley, and shoot a 50 shot directly into the intercooler. hehe

Smitty

ur nutz

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Update:

Dealership called this morning and said they hooked up another fuel pressure gauge to my car and said my fuel pressure was set WAY too high. They doubled checked the other gauge on another car and it was fine. So it looks like my gauge got f'ed up so I thought fuel pressure was low, so... I had them increase fuel pressure (based on my gauge) and then I was too rich which could definitely cause the symptoms I'm experiencing.

Do the gauges have any type of warranty? I don't have the box anymore, but I do have the reciept.

I should have known I was a little rich when the last 4-5 tanks of gas have only got me 200 miles with just regular driving.

mattg

better throw some new plugs in that biatch

JaredGMS

, a smack the shit out of the CO that sold you that meter....

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I forgot about that

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Plugs still looked okay.

The gauge reads 15psi too low. I'll be calling Autometer in the morning.

Smitty

1 year I do believe... you have to mail it back to them, they will repair or replace it.

Allout

Since it's electrical, it could be the sender or the guage itself. One other thing to try is to ground the sender with a jumper wire and see if the pressure seems more normal. I've seen bad grounds cause a problem with readings before.