Clutch Damper Bypass-CLS-6
07-30-2007, 07:58 AM
#41
Originally Posted by Silvaccordex01
Finished mine up a little while ago. It fit perfectly, i didnt do the bypass, just the SS line and fluid flush with ate super blue.
07-30-2007, 12:04 PM
#43
Originally Posted by Allout
You have to bleed it at the slave cylinder using the bleed screw (see #1 on the illustration). Clutch pipe B connects to the slave cylinder.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
also, bleeding the clutch "wastes" a lot of clutch fluid correct? i would have to fill it up a lot for bleeding it.
07-30-2007, 03:13 PM
#46
Blown is Best
Attach one end of the hose to the end of the bleed screw and place the other end of the hose in a jar to collect the fluid. If you don't use a hose, you'll just spray fluid all over the place.
07-30-2007, 03:15 PM
#47
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by SkillOBskilled
What do you guys think of getting a replacement B pipe and bending it to make a direct connection between the slave and the clutch? Is it long enough?
07-30-2007, 03:46 PM
#48
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
The point of this mod is to loose the dampener. You should at least try it. Why do the work?
07-30-2007, 04:12 PM
#49
'03 ABP YA4-S 6MT
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the damper is there for warranty issues, mainly.
as is it said before, there are also negative effects to having it, such as slower takeup on the clutch = higher wear, *indirect* feeling on the friction point, etc..
http://www.zeckhausen.com/CDV.htm
as is it said before, there are also negative effects to having it, such as slower takeup on the clutch = higher wear, *indirect* feeling on the friction point, etc..
http://www.zeckhausen.com/CDV.htm
07-30-2007, 06:34 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
Not to mention every time I I shift fast at red line from 1-2 & 2-3 I get clutch grinding.
Both 6 speeds I had did it.
Both 6 speeds I had did it.
07-30-2007, 08:01 PM
#53
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
Not to mention every time I I shift fast at red line from 1-2 & 2-3 I get clutch grinding.
Both 6 speeds I had did it.
Both 6 speeds I had did it.
07-30-2007, 08:21 PM
#54
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
Not to mention every time I I shift fast at red line from 1-2 & 2-3 I get clutch grinding.
Both 6 speeds I had did it.
Both 6 speeds I had did it.
08-02-2007, 09:15 PM
#62
'03 ABP YA4-S 6MT
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alright. i suggest you put some pb blaster or liquid wrench on it before you start. i stripped the bolt to the b pipe and now i have to buy a new line (~$10)
08-02-2007, 09:51 PM
#63
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by rp_guy
alright. i suggest you put some pb blaster or liquid wrench on it before you start. i stripped the bolt to the b pipe and now i have to buy a new line (~$10)
08-03-2007, 04:37 PM
#64
This may be a dumb question......
How do you get this out? The service manual is vague at best. I have the car on car ramps. I don't have access to a lift anymore.
I see it, but I don't seem to have any room under the car to get to it. Can it be done from the top?
I can't get the car any higher currently.
How do you get this out? The service manual is vague at best. I have the car on car ramps. I don't have access to a lift anymore.
I see it, but I don't seem to have any room under the car to get to it. Can it be done from the top?
I can't get the car any higher currently.
08-03-2007, 05:05 PM
#66
'03 ABP YA4-S 6MT
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there is WAYYYY more access from the top. i don't even think you can do it from the bottom.
but yes, a flare nut wrench is probably a very good idea. i did not know this and the new line is actually $20 ! argh !
but yes, a flare nut wrench is probably a very good idea. i did not know this and the new line is actually $20 ! argh !
08-03-2007, 06:21 PM
#67
Ok top it is. I got the car off the ramps, I took the intake tube off & I loosened the nuts with the 10mm flare nut wrench. I have not pulled anything apart yet.
So I need more help. The little clips, are they supposed to come off before you unscrew the hard line? Or after?
So I'm putting 1 hard line into the new SS line from the slave & the other hard line into the other end from the master cylinder? Then routing the new line out of the way? Is that right?
The left over parts should be a little u shaped hard line & the dampener?
So I need more help. The little clips, are they supposed to come off before you unscrew the hard line? Or after?
So I'm putting 1 hard line into the new SS line from the slave & the other hard line into the other end from the master cylinder? Then routing the new line out of the way? Is that right?
The left over parts should be a little u shaped hard line & the dampener?
08-03-2007, 09:18 PM
#71
oh yeah forgot to report my install:
i jacked up the car thinking the damper would be under the car on the front driver side since that's where it was for my buddy's e46. i searched for about 10 minutes. damn i felt dumb. went back to this thread and studied the diagram for a bit then finally figured it out. i couldn't secure the new SS line where the original one was but i don't think it's a big deal.
anyways after i properly wasted my bottle of clutch fluid (i also figured out that clutch fluid is the same as brake fluid dot 3 or 4) and bleed my clutch it was firmer which was what i was aiming for. for some reason my clutch turned soft (before CDD bypass).
i jacked up the car thinking the damper would be under the car on the front driver side since that's where it was for my buddy's e46. i searched for about 10 minutes. damn i felt dumb. went back to this thread and studied the diagram for a bit then finally figured it out. i couldn't secure the new SS line where the original one was but i don't think it's a big deal.
anyways after i properly wasted my bottle of clutch fluid (i also figured out that clutch fluid is the same as brake fluid dot 3 or 4) and bleed my clutch it was firmer which was what i was aiming for. for some reason my clutch turned soft (before CDD bypass).
08-04-2007, 01:07 PM
#75
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by LIPPSTUH
i tried using a socket, there is not enough room to clear it.
i suggest having a second person help refill it since it leaks FAST.
i suggest having a second person help refill it since it leaks FAST.
08-04-2007, 03:12 PM
#77
'03 ABP YA4-S 6MT
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successfully bypassed the CDD !!!
if anyone wants to remove the CDD without buying a new line, you can easily reuse the stock rubber line.. you don't need to cut any brackets or anything like that. i probably only used about 200mL of brake fluid to flush the line.
my shifts are 100% smoother now =D
if anyone wants to remove the CDD without buying a new line, you can easily reuse the stock rubber line.. you don't need to cut any brackets or anything like that. i probably only used about 200mL of brake fluid to flush the line.
my shifts are 100% smoother now =D
08-04-2007, 05:07 PM
#78
I'm done too.
Besides the pedal feeling a tad different, I see no difference. Feels like any other clutch pedal to me.
I still get some grinding going into 2nd at redline on a fast shift. I'll drive it for a week & see.
BTW the TL clutch line HNC-009 fits fine. Actually any SS line with the right fittings will work. It only needs to be about 4".
Besides the pedal feeling a tad different, I see no difference. Feels like any other clutch pedal to me.
I still get some grinding going into 2nd at redline on a fast shift. I'll drive it for a week & see.BTW the TL clutch line HNC-009 fits fine. Actually any SS line with the right fittings will work. It only needs to be about 4".
08-04-2007, 06:11 PM
#79
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
I'm done too.
Besides the pedal feeling a tad different, I see no difference. Feels like any other clutch pedal to me. I still get some grinding going into 2nd at redline on a fast shift. I'll drive it for a week & see.
BTW the TL clutch line HNC-009 fits fine. Actually any SS line with the right fittings will work. It only needs to be about 4".
Besides the pedal feeling a tad different, I see no difference. Feels like any other clutch pedal to me.
I still get some grinding going into 2nd at redline on a fast shift. I'll drive it for a week & see.BTW the TL clutch line HNC-009 fits fine. Actually any SS line with the right fittings will work. It only needs to be about 4".
08-04-2007, 07:44 PM
#80
MP90 uninstalled
I have a new tranny and removed the clutchdamper also. I have noticed that it hooks up a little better when abused. I have got the second gear grind once since doing the change