Is it wise to buy this car now that it's 15 years old? Can someone chime in on their longevity/reliability? I'm looking into one that has 114K miles, we agreed on $4800 (started at $5900). It is in excellent condition, no rust, no rips, no modifications, bone stock, 2nd owner who's had it since 55K miles and 2013. Timing belt is due which is a factor in the price reduction that I insisted on from $5900 down to $4800. I really like these cars, I had one briefly back in 2015 and it was awesome. But I didn't own it long enough to know how well they have held up. What are you thoughts? It's a dark grey with black interior and no navigation. Thank you

 

Honestly, you can't go wrong. Wear and tear are inevitable but for the most part, clutch & timing belt are 2 of the bigger things to worry about.

 

I know, and they are both original. Makes me wonder how that timing belt didn't snap when it's 5 years/15k miles over the limit. I'm also worried about the clutch given that those are dual mass flywheel and cost a fortune. The car is about 5 hours away so if I go to see it, I'm pretty much buying it since I'll rent a trailer to bring with me. There's also one not even half hour from me that only has 73K miles but the seller wants a whooping $8000. I understand they're rare and low mileage but $8K is excessive. It is immaculate, garaged, perfect but still, $8K...Maybe if he dropped it $1000-1500, I would consider it since it's local and 40K miles less on the odometer. They're strangely identical, same color inside and out, no navigation, no spoiler.

 

Dude, a LUK OEM equivalent clutch kit and flywheel will cost you $167.99 & $190.79 before shipping on Rockauto.com.

 

I'm not worried about parts, I know those are cheap; it's the labor. I am nowhere near mechanically inclined to replace a clutch and flywheel. I'm not proud of it but it's the truth.

 

I did the 6puck disk from P2R, LUK pressure plate & AASCO LW flywheel. $850 for parts ($500 for flywheel alone). The car is worth it. I have 2 2003 CLS, one is automatic with 180k, other is 6MT with 110k. Paid $7k for the auto in 2010 w/90k miles & $7k for the 6MT in 2012 w/90k miles. By far the best car purchases I've made.

 

Where I'm from the power steering pump and crankshaft pulley are an issue for the J32A2 (I've had them go a few times on a few engines, plus the old motor mounts were a problem, but they fixed that for the later model years), otherwise it's pretty bulletproof, aside from a few minor hiccups and gremlins here and there (mostly related to oxygen sensors and idle-control). The dual-mass flywheel has caused me problems on several ocasions, otherwise the suspension is reliable, and the gearbox has caused me trouble due to my own stupidity. In short, these cars are reliable. I don't own a CL myself, but my Inspire is basically the same thing mechanically, so I think this information should be valid.

 

A local Acura/Honda specialty shop would probably cost you between $600-800.

If you are looking to 'flip' these cars, then it would be prudent to line-up a good local 'go-to-guy' anyway. That way you have a good idea on 'what is what', labor wise, when a specific repair presents itself, no?

 

I am definitely not looking to flip the car, as "rare" as they are, they'll never be a collectible. I really like them and want one for myself. I think it would complement my 15 TLX SH-AWD very nicely. My 95 Accord is aging and I need a worthy reliable fun replacement.

 

Nice, then if you get one of the two you mentioned above for your 'stable', a timing belt replacement / potential clutch/flywheel labor replacement, at the same shop, should not be more than +/- $1200 perhaps?

 

Given the reputation of Gen 6 and Gen 7 J-Series V6 Accords, 2G CL and TL models, and the 3G TL, longevity (except for the automatic transmissions) isn't even remotely an issue with these cars. Last May I bought an 11 year old 3G TL, also with 114,000 miles on the clock to be my daily driver. I wouldn't even remotely have any concerns about the car you're looking at.

 

I'm leaning more towards the one with 72K miles just because it's half hour away vs 3 states away and they're the exact same setup, even the color. If I can get it down to $7000 or less, it might be worth it. The one that's in Michigan has an accident on record, says minor but it's still an accident. The front left panel is clearly not the same shade of gray since it was replaced/repainted. The one near me has a perfect carfax.

 

i've had two... current one i've had for 7 years now... if a white with black guts or red with black guts pops up i'm snatching that up too...

its the most reliable car i've ever owned.. my m3 is down more than it is on the road lol..

 

I've had my CL-S for nearly 3 years and I love it more and more each time I drive it. I plan on keeping it til the wheels fall off... Then I'll replace them with the same wheels lol.

 

I recently bought me 1st CLS6 about a month ago w/ 210K miles (owned 2 CLS before, autos tho) The 2nd owner already installed coils/camber kit and intake/exhaust, 18 in. rims/rotors/pads/ stainless steel brake lines/ stock spoiler and Cusco front strut bar...At my local Pick N Pull there was a totaled 03 CLS6 w/ both front/rear Eibach Sway bars, came up on those for $40 lol...gotta look them deals! Body is what you'd expect from a almost 20 yr old car lol but body is straight, paint needs a refreshing. Interior is tan, no navi BUT no tears or damage inside, gauges swapped for blue lights.. Sure I need to address the truck weather liner (leaks) and the sun roof weather liner also is looking swollen/whopped (no leak)... Heck for $2400 cash I didn't think twice lol...

 

How is the 6 puck with the Luk PP? I was considering getting this setup but wanted a good OEM feel... I have a civic with a stage 2 six puck and it engages hard and isn't exactly "comfortable". :p

 

It's a stock feel to the pedal pressure, 6 puck does chatter a lil bit. I drove it to and from Holden Beach, NC and Cleveland, OH, about 1400 miles and can't really complain. It does have a very short grab point.

 

Ah okay, thanks for the info. Yeah my civic was a DD for about 2 years (and was my first car)... Not luxurious by any means, I intend on keeping my CL as nice and "stock" feeling as I can

 

I also just bought a CLS a few days ago, my second car. It has about 219k on the body and around 100k on the engine, I felt like it was a steal for a thousand bucks. Any tips on what I should look out for?

 

I mean, I could easily use it as a Daily with that clutch setup, but it's my nice weather car. My 03 CL-S 5AT with 180k is my daily, snow tires and all.

 

Okay, I might try it. I don't know how necessary it'll be because i'm planning on either keeping the j32 and modifying it or dropping in a j35, either way I really am wanting 300 whp

 

What wheels are you on? Looks nice

 

I brought my CLS6 in for a recall a few months ago and they ended up doing the timing belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner for free. Definitely see what the deslership can hook you up with. I saved $1200 because of recalls.

 

Explain in more detail please.. The recall, at least that I am aware of, is in regards to the drivers side airbag however, if there is one for a timing belt and water pump count me in!

 

I had a 99 tl for 3 years, and I've had my CL-s 6 speed w/nav for a year now, bought it for $4k with 112k miles on it. All it needed was a timing belt and new axles, but it's definitely worth every penny I put into it.
The biggest problem I've faced is the sub-frame rotting on the passengers side. It's believed to be caused by the AC condenser drain dripping right onto the sub-frame. I have a hole in the top of mine and if it can't be fixed, the part alone new is $800 and the labor will put the cost to replace in the $2k range (and might as well do all the motor mounts while it's out).

Never had a problem with the J32 in my TL (220k miles), or my CL. I plan to keep mine until I get bored of it, which won't be any time soon.

 

Dude, there is a wrecked 6-speed at:
Sid's Autoparts 243 Forsyth Road, Salem CT; 06420 P#800.962.0712

https://cpprohomeoh.car-part.com/ima...ck%23%20170267

Don't wait to buy new when you can get a used one. They don't last long.
Good Luck.

 

Old timer here, I got my CLS 6MT when it was a year old. Now has 140k miles. The last year I have spent about 75% of total repairs ever on this car- new steering rack, radiator. This month I did a motor mount, CV joints, oil leak, oxy sensor. Before this I've spent very little repairing this car..and it is still fun to drive.
Orig clutch, no major drivetrain or engine work, AC still works. CD player went out tho. Paint clearcoat has faded to crap on the tops, and brakes are weak link. I flew out of state to get this car, anthracite Navi 6MTs are rare. I had a white tan CLS 6MT for a year before this.. liked that car so much I went for a better color with Navi.
Looking around there are few cars out there that I would really want or afford. Never had a sedan or a SUV. and I'm hearing Honda is dropping the Accord coupe, how can that be true?? I had Prelude and Legend coupes before the CLs..
Anyway, I love my CLS. I've had plenty of people and notes on my car asking if I want to sell it. THe last guy had a black S2000, not sure if he was replacing it or just adding a cousin car. Things have worn out on it, but it's still a blast to drive. Good luck on your purchase.

 

Just had 5500 put into clutch brakes fluids radiator alllhoses timing belt condenser and key fobs


I can't believe that I have gotten my ex girlfriends mom's weekend car that she kept at her summer house for 2k$!! Looking to enjoy it only thing at all is the smallest grind going into 3rd, there is a few ways to avoid it and not make it grind but it's not really easy to do continuously... Actually have no issue just skipping the gear all together without having any issues with normal driving ... Any ideas

 

^
Try some ACDelco 10-4014 Friction Modified Synchromesh Manual Transmission fluid to see if that will remedy the third gear grind. You will need 2.3 quarts.


If that does not help, see the TSB attachment for the third gear grind.