TheWeez

Wondering what kinda mileage people are seeing with both cheap and expensive rotors.

I've been going through cheap rotors at about 30k miles a pair on the front (rear lasted 60k). The big question is do you really get that much more mileage outta the more expensive rotors to justify the higher price or is it more cost effective to just buy cheap ones and replace them slightly more often. I know the resellers on here will go on and on about how much better the high priced replacements are but the question is, do you really get 60k miles out of a $200 pair vs the 30k miles out of a $100 pair?

Please post about how much you paid for them, brand if you know it, and how many miles you got outta them.

YeuEmMaiMai

my original stock front and rear rotors have 94K on them and they can according to the acura deler be turned if needed.......my front brakes were changed for the first time at 81k miles and my rears were done for the first time at 55K. Learning to how to properly brake goes a LONG LONG way towards making them last.

TheWeez

That's not normal on a car with 11.8in rotors that weighs 3500lbs.

russianDude

wow, I only get 20-30K before I need to resurface or get new rotors, and I am not hard on brakes at all

proimport

go for brembo pay the extra money dont be a cheap a$$

russianDude

thats my last setup, lasted 20K miles before I started feeling vibrations. Its equivalent to OEM rotors. This time I got Centric rotos, they are $20 cheaper per rotor than brembo blanks. I expect the same life. my car is 10 years old, I am not going to buy fancy rotors

TheWeez

Thanks for providing solid data to backup the claim that spending 2x as much for Brembos is really worth the extra money.

I have no problem spending the money, I just want to make sure it's justified and not just herd mentality that more is better.

russianDude

Brembo blanks are not expensive. They are $70 per rotor, less expensive rotors will cost you $50. I am not really sure that $20 makes a difference either way. Slotted might make a difference, but they cost a lot more.

RUF87

After having the factory originals replaced at 11k for warping the replacements have lasted 76k. That includes a lot of city and frequent hard high speed braking. The pads are just now at the wear indicator and I'm going with SP Performance diamond slotted rotors . . . hope they are good as the extra stopping power will be welcomed.

http://www.sp-performance.com/diamond_slot.htm

Got them from RaceShopper for a good price.
http://www.sp-performance.com/diamond_slot.htm

Ruf

CH46ESeaKnight

What kind of pads are you going to get to go with your rotors?

Have you seen these? http://www.ctbrakes.com/

I have read literally 100's of great reviews from daily drivers to cop cars to weekend and deticated racers.

As far as rotors lasting for me, well I have ussually got EBC and they have always out lasted the car or truck. Ussually I would put the EBC on as soon as the factory stuff went south, so like at 30k. I've had the EBCs last me 80K on some vehicles before I got rid of the vehicle.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I ran Racing Brake rotors up front (stock rear) for 40k with absolutely no warpage. The only reason I ditched them was because I went to the RL calipers.

If you want to go with the cheaper rotors, get rotors from Advance Auto/Auto Zone/Napa because they usually have a lifetime warranty. Just bring them in, tell them theyre warped and you get new ones. The question is how often you have to do that though.

BTW, lately Brembo has been making rotors in China and they are inferior to the Italian made rotors. Your box should say where they originate.

YeuEmMaiMai

obviously it can be done...........learning how to properly brake = long long brake life. This is actually the first honda car that I have had where I had to do my front brakes before 100K


1994 accord = front brakes first time at 128K
1998 accord = front brakes would have lasted to about 115K (sold the car at 100K)
2002 CL type S = 81K and 55K rear and I am getting ready to do the rears again here at 94K.

even my old mercury sable (3400lbs) was still on it's first set of pads @ 143K and it has rotors that are barely 11"

CH46ESeaKnight

This is true. Most of thier oem blanks are made in China and China has a problem with soft, inconsitant metals.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

my buddy got brembo blanks and they warped in 2-3 months

now he's got ebc's on the front and has been loving them ever since.

drove both sets the same way... so there's no bias.

oh and he re-used his pads going from the brembo's to the ebc's and yea.. went perfectly

CH46ESeaKnight

How are your DBA's holding up? I think I will go that route on my next sports car.

DBA'a and Carbotech pads.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i beat my rotors for fun to be honest... cause I don't drive like a maniac so every now and then i'll make FULL use of what the brakes can do.

it took about a month for them to wear in tho... u'll know what i mean when they are worn in.


i've done a few torture tests with them and everything is holding up just great. I got adaptive one pads just fyi in case u were wondering, i got them at napa....