best rotor/pad combo for my needs?

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Old 10-28-2011, 05:11 PM
  #41  
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CL-S Progression 01,

We've got an Audi A4 and I have to tell you, I'll never buy another Audi. They are a grotesquely over rated car; rattles, squeaks, oil leaks, constantly failing coil packs, a cooling system problem in which the replacement of a $23 part that was visible with the hood open cost me over $700 to have replaced. I'd buy a Kia before I'd buy another one.
Old 10-28-2011, 05:27 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
lol our cars and brakes.. geeze.

i cannot wait for the day when acura and honda actually put on a braking system that outperforms the car.

lol even their nsx caliper are OK but not even special.

100000$ car and u get the calipers that should have been on the CL.

even the new accords have garbage brakes. i know 3 ppl with that car and they all think the skimped on a FEW areas.. accept one of them who switch from a chevy to a honda... lol chevy

like u'd think the new acura csx would have WAY better brakes than the civic, for all that extra $$$$, but no still get chinsed.

next car is gonna be a BMW or AUDI, two companies that don't chinse u out
Acura's are entry level luxury cars, not sport cars. If you ask customers would you want to pay more for better brakes most would say no. They will complain when rotors warp tho. It comes down to people don't think brakes are as important as horspower numbers, mpg, looks etc. Same reason why when people mod cars they usually leave brakes for last(buy cheapest they can) and want to just do power adders. If you want better brakes just go with aftermarket.

I don't see how it would be smart for Acura. It would just cost them alot more money and probably decrease sales because then the sticker price goes up. When selling cars you have to remember most people are stupid and sticker price is what they look at(not how many pistons the calipers have). Acura needs to be cheaper than bmw audi etc to succeed imo.

Last edited by brian6speed; 10-28-2011 at 05:31 PM.
Old 10-28-2011, 08:29 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by zeta
I agree. However, the hardest thing I've found is determining the manufacturers origin. Especially, when your sitting at the computer looking at a webpage that gives only rotor specs and noise about how wonderful they will be for said car, but no data on country of manufacture.
Thats is the hardest part. I went round and round with Rotora for about 2 weeks on that subject. Finnally a guy there (I forgot his name now) admitted they use Chinese blanks. Like most other manufatures do. Then one of the vendors here (don't remember which one it was that was pushing Rotora) tried to assure me they were not made with Chinese blanks. But could not tell me where they were made.

So far DBA, and EBC are the only ones I have found that are not Chinese steel. I did notice that when I got my EBC rotors for the CLS that they were made in Japan. I caled EBC in England (Becasue I thought they could be fake) and they said they are now casting them in Japan and England. They said IIRC that the lower volume rotors (CLS) where being done there. I abused the shit out of the EBC's 3gd's on the CLS and they never gave me a problem. I used the Yellow Stuff pads.
Old 10-28-2011, 08:33 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
You are correct. I gotta learn to go to sleep instead of sitting on the computer late at night



My Powerslots have a painted hub and the vent area is painted as well. I believe the slots are painted too. No rust in those areas. The surface of the rotor rusts if they get wet and sit for a while, but a quick drive and that rust is gone.



True. Hell, IIRC Brembo switched their manufacturing to China for some of the rotors

ThomWV is right about slots/drills vs blanks. Ive posted that in the past and gotten into an argument with a few people regarding it. Drilled rotors are not good. Slotted is ok. Blanks are best.

My Red Stuff pads would squeal like crazy for the first 2-300 miles. It was like a metal on metal sound. Really high pitched, really loud, and really annoying. Then one day the noise was gone and theyve been great since. Every once in a while, when it is really cold in the morning and Im back out of my driveway, they will squeal. But only that once and then its back to silence.
The RedStuff ceramics made a huge immpression on me when I used them with teh EBC rotors on my Jetta. Best pads to date for that car. It weighed 3200 lbs so I dont know how they would be on heavier cars. The Yellows do well on the CLS.
Old 10-28-2011, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight
Thats is the hardest part. I went round and round with Rotora for about 2 weeks on that subject. Finnally a guy there (I forgot his name now) admitted they use Chinese blanks. Like most other manufatures do. Then one of the vendors here (don't remember which one it was that was pushing Rotora) tried to assure me they were not made with Chinese blanks. But could not tell me where they were made.
Thanks for the validation, lol. The Brembo blanks I have currently were purchased some three plus years ago, the boxes had 'Made in Italy' stamped on them. They started to warp after a few thousand miles with the OEM single pot calipers. When I noticed, I had them cut and purchased the Legend calipers (Hawk HPS) and have had no sign of warpage thus far. No sh!t.

Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight
So far DBA, and EBC are the only ones I have found that are not Chinese steel. I did notice that when I got my EBC rotors for the CLS that they were made in Japan. I caled EBC in England (Becasue I thought they could be fake) and they said they are now casting them in Japan and England. They said IIRC that the lower volume rotors (CLS) where being done there. I abused the shit out of the EBC's 3gd's on the CLS and they never gave me a problem. I used the Yellow Stuff pads.
Great info there, thanks. I will most likely get the EBC UPR 7087's when the brembos crap themselves.
Old 10-29-2011, 01:33 AM
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If you google pics of Indy car or NASCAR brakes, they mostly run blanks. Some are slotted but thats only to keep a clean pad surface. It looks cool but will probably serve no noticable purpose on the street and will decrease pad life.
Old 11-08-2011, 10:52 AM
  #47  
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decided im going to do another set of EBC rotors/pads. thanks everyone for the input and healthy debate. im going to hit up excelerate.

Last edited by p.diddy; 11-08-2011 at 10:55 AM.
Old 11-08-2011, 05:14 PM
  #48  
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P. Diddy,

That's just about the conclusion I came to as well - before I found out I probably don't need brakes. On that question about the grading number, the one you want is 3000, and that coincides with what is used by both Brembo and EBC and probably lots of others too. I don't care much where the blanks are cast but I do care where they are machined and on further reading I came to the revised conclusion that while drilling and dimpling don't do any good at all there may be some merit to slotted rotors. With that in mind and after reading review after review and more false leads from Google than you can imagine this is the combination I think will work best; slotted EBC rotors* and their Redstuff 3000 pads. I just couldn't find anything bad being said about them and even thought it was clear that many reviewers were - how shall I say this? - enjoying the exuberance of youth in their descriptions of perceived improvement with their use it still got through to me that even the most conservative of reviews noted significant seat-of-the-pants improvement.


*EBC USR Ultimax BlackDash Slotted Rotors (Front Part Number: USR7087)

Last edited by ThomWV; 11-08-2011 at 05:20 PM.
Old 11-08-2011, 06:53 PM
  #49  
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i have autozone rotors and they are megahellastatic warped and im fine with it because i cant even push my car because of issues i have now

j/k

they are warped and need to find something real soon dont know if im gonna do RL swap or wilwood or im just gonna replace rotors and pads with some quality more agressive pads
Old 11-08-2011, 08:07 PM
  #50  
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if your going to put the blower back on i would do bbk.
Old 11-09-2011, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by StreetKA
i have autozone rotors and they are megahellastatic warped and im fine with it because i cant even push my car because of issues i have now

j/k

they are warped and need to find something real soon dont know if im gonna do RL swap or wilwood or im just gonna replace rotors and pads with some quality more agressive pads
You shouldve told me. I wouldve brought my OEM-size Racing Brake rotors up to NY when I was there this past weekend and given you a deal on them. Shipping would be stupid on them though.
Old 11-09-2011, 09:17 AM
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You should told me that you are coming over
Old 11-09-2011, 09:43 AM
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Sorry
Old 11-09-2011, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
You shouldve told me. I wouldve brought my OEM-size Racing Brake rotors up to NY when I was there this past weekend and given you a deal on them. Shipping would be stupid on them though.
Priority flat rate box FTW. I shipped a set of accord rotors for $10.80. Guy at the post office said I was putting them out of business They did weigh like 30 pounds though.
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:59 AM
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I forgot about those flat rate boxes. IIRC they can be up to 70lbs. Nice
Old 11-10-2011, 09:10 AM
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So what are the best choices for rear rotors? For the fronts I am going with the open slot 2 piece racingbrake rotors so I would like to try to somewhat match that.

I don't really want to go with ebc again this time. There are slotted stoptech and slotted Power Slot Cryo rotors. Are there any better choices and which would you prefer?

Also for the front I was going to use racingbrakes pads to match brands for compatability. Does this mean I should also use the same pads on the rear rotors even if they aren't racingbrake brand? Can you mismatch front and rear pads? I could always go with ebc red or yellow on all 4 I guess.
Old 11-10-2011, 10:12 AM
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I just got Powerslot slotted for the rear and green stuff pads all around. Going to put them on this weekend.
Old 11-10-2011, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr


I forgot about those flat rate boxes. IIRC they can be up to 70lbs. Nice
Send me a "thanks"
Old 11-10-2011, 06:05 PM
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I just got Powerslot slotted for the rear and green stuff pads all around. Going to put them on this weekend.
I've been running this set up for about a year. Only difference is pads. Mine is red stuff. I think they are pretty good.
Old 11-11-2011, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by aznboi2424
Send me a "thanks"
I thanked you, you whore
Old 11-11-2011, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by brian6speed
So what are the best choices for rear rotors? For the fronts I am going with the open slot 2 piece racingbrake rotors so I would like to try to somewhat match that.

I don't really want to go with ebc again this time. There are slotted stoptech and slotted Power Slot Cryo rotors. Are there any better choices and which would you prefer?

Also for the front I was going to use racingbrakes pads to match brands for compatability. Does this mean I should also use the same pads on the rear rotors even if they aren't racingbrake brand? Can you mismatch front and rear pads? I could always go with ebc red or yellow on all 4 I guess.
We offer brake packages with STOPTECH/Powerslot slotted and drilled and slotted rotors and STOPTECH performance pads. They are some of the best brake components on the market, short of the 2 piece front disc by Racingbrake. There really is no need to get a cryo-treated rear rotor; it's overkill unless you plan on heavy track use. I would recommend just a rear slotted Powerslot rotor.
Old 11-18-2011, 06:19 PM
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I've been running the one piece Racing Brake rotors and OEM pads... no complaints with my brakes... my $0.02.
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