krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

I know it's been awhile since I posted, but ever since the s/c was put in I've still been having problems w/ the CEL. I talked to fsttyms1 and it has to be one of the sensors that the shop didn't swap over since I'm using an auto tranny. I haven't had to the time to let the shop go over the issue yet, but hopefully it will be resolved soon. I still need to take it back to sac to have it retuned by Shad b/c I get detonation every so often, but other than that the car seems to be running fine. I have to dyno sheets but I still have to give the papers to Gary to put up for me. The numbers were somewhere around 267hp and 262tq. We compared it to jeff's (allout) dyno which was putting down numbers way higher than mine (about 319hp, 290tq), so what I'm confused about is from just the CEL going off I'm losing 40+hp and almost 30tq? I know for sure we replaced the speed sensor which cost $500, so the main crankshaft position sensor, the crank gear for the timing belt, the 2 TDC sensors and the front camshaft gear are all the sensors that have to be changed. I dunno, but I just don't want to shell out more money, especially if I have no gaurantee that I will gain any more power.

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

fyi, the codes being thrown were all 6 cylinder misfires and crankshaft sensor

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

i also have to check if my engine mounts may be shot, what are some signs?

victypes

i just got mine mounts replaced today from the stealership, well trying too jack up the engine was lil too much for me, i neither had the time or tools. they charged me almost 400 for front and side....but al least there's warranty for one year.
well some signs are feeling lil vibrations and jerks when moving the car from stop
1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd gear also when you let the gas go you feel a jerk when car switches from higher to lower gear as it slows down, and ofcourse its for manumatic models only. i dont know about manual. i could tell the difference right away when i drove back home. accelerations i also affected if they are broken,
just visual inspections can tell how bad they are also.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

I think the CEL maybe making run in limp-mode, not activating VTEC, or if it is indeed misfiring then yes, they make cause this loss in power.

BTW, your in sac? im in sac!

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

I got the car tuned in sac, but i'm from san francisco

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

I started the car to move it across the street b/c of street cleaning and it sounded like shit! I'm not sure what happened b/c it was running fine earlier. As soon as I started the car there were vibrations coming from the engine and when I tried to pull out of first it felt like the engine was going to explode. It sounded like something was loose and the blower has moving around a bit in the engine bay. The temp gauge was fine, but the psi was at 50 on the guage and I felt vibrations in the seat. MORE PROBLEMS that I don't need right now!!

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

So, I went to the shop to get my car today and the guy told me the car is running fine w/out the belt hooked up to the blower, but when it is, he said the car is definetly running to rich b/c the exhaust pipes are completely black and you can smell the fuel. I took it back to "The Shop" in San Bruno where Matt helped put in the blower and we tried for about 3 hrs to figure out the problem. The sparkplugs in the back were flooded b/c the engine was running to rich, so i had to call Shad down at Driving Ambition in Sac where I got it tunned to find out what the Psi should be at b/c it was running in the 50 range. Turns out it should be at 38, but I knew by adjusting the fuel pressor regulator it wouldn't solve all my problems b/c i still have that CEL light one. They ran the codes and it came up as a random misfire, so I dunno, it could be the sparkplugs and a cylinder problem maybe, but I'm going to have to bring it back to them next wk b/c hes swamped. The car really feels like shit and I know I need to change those sensors that weren't swapped w/ the tranny. The thing is that there was never any problem w/ the car or blower before and nothing happened gradually, just rather all of a sudden after I turned the car back on, so hopefully things turn around b/c I'm just about fed up

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

I took my car to another shop in South San Francisco and they claim to have figured out the mystery to why my car has been acting up. I didn't have much time to talk today, but in short they said my timing is way off, so I'll be going in tomm. to get some more details. Also, on the driver side bumper it is caved in and I was looking somewhere cheap to get it sucked back out. The shop where the car also does paint jobs and offered to fix and paint the side of the bumper for $450, or $100 to pop the bumper back out. Good prices?

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

would it be worth putting on the UR pulley w/ the sc?

AMGala

iTrader: (4)

I don't think you can use the underdrive pulley with a S/C. As far as your bumper dent, can you just take the bumper off and push it out? I did that with my back bumper after getting rear ended.

jproy

You have to use the SC UR crank pulley to spin the blower at the right speed. If you use the regular UR crank under drive pulley it will spin the blower way to slow. I am running the UR sc crank pulley with my blower and like it. The SC pulley is the same size as the OEM pulley but without all the weight.

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

I got my car back today and everything seemed fine, the car seemed normal until I decided to punch it a little bit. The CEL went off AGAIN!! I took it back to the shop and they said my timing was all off again. The used a different type of device to read the engine, and it showed my speed when the CEL went on. I was at 55mph @ 6000 rpm. I asked why the CEL would go off like that and he said because I was driving too hard. I just wanted to test the car out to make sure the CEL wouldn't come on again. Nontheless, the car seemed fine but I don't want to drive it. I'm scared since my timing is off that the same thing is going to happen again. What should I do? I no choice but to drive it to work today and it seemed fine, but I dunno for how long it will stay running fine?

TheWeez

Take it to a different shop would be my recommendation. Have someone correct the timing and tune it.

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

I've tried so many shops, but no one seems to know the problem? Here's the wierd thing, after my CEL went off, it hasn't been on since. I've pushed my car hard a couple times since then, but no CEL? Can't be right, but it hasn't been coming on and my car feels fine. The only place left that I'm pretty sure will know how to solve the problem is Shad in Sacramento @ Driving Ambition, b/c he used to work at Comptech and he was the one who tuned my car. Only problem is sac is 2 hrs away from where I live

swiftt5389

i found a video for your thread

http://youtube.com/watch?v=b9n_1zNPnJA

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

anyone know of any shops in sf that are knowledgable on engine swaps?

scuc

Sup Kris, did you consider going to Shad's shop and have them look at it?

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

thought about it, but I just have no other car to drive in the mean time. I might bring to have it retuned soon. There's no CEL, but I know the problem is still there

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

wat u been up to anyway

scuc

My car's at the dealership cause the front left axle broke. I heard a tick in the front left tire area while I was driving and thought it coulda been the new coilovers I put in, so I took it to Mach III (where I got the coilovers installed) and they took a quick look but couldn't figure out what was wrong and sent me on my way cause they said the car was safe to drive...
The next day I'm moving my car to find a parking spot and I get stuck in the midddle of the street not being able to move the car at all, I just hear the axle spinning and see the revs go up, but the car wasn't moving. I'm glad it happened to me on this not-so-busy street than while driving down the highway. Anyway, they told me it would be covered they just need to get the approval from Acura Care (I think). I'll probably get my car back Weds.

Alright, enough thread jacking. We should meet up again. I got the new wheels on too, just need to get camber kits for the front and the back so I can lower it some more. Hope you get your car issues straightened out.

Renegade

How much have you spent on just shops trying to fix this problem? I feel bad man

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

well, lets just say I could have bought another car by now

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

Damn man, guess our luck w/ cars isn't the best, but we should be meet up b4 my car goes back to the shop (knock on wood). My camber is off a little I think, but I dunno how much. Know any places to get aligned? Hope I don't have to get a camber kit

DFoster0

just curious what your using to tune this car?

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

emanage blue, don't really think the ultimate is necessary

jproy

Have you pulled the timing belt covers and checked that when the front cam is exactly at TDC that the rear cam is at exactly TDC. While they are precisely at TDC you can also look at the indicator mark on the crank pulley and the crank pulley part of the lower timing belt cover and make sure they are perfectly lined up. When I did my timing belt I could see how someone in a hurry, lazy, or just no paying attention could eaisly end up with a cam retarded or advanced one cog. All three indicators of TDC should line up perfectly

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

I haven't checked that yet, but I should b/c it seems like the shops I have been going to have been pulling my leg and don't really know what they're doing. I'm also thinking it might be the "teeth" b/c the auto and manual are diff. and couldn't this cause the belt to skip a tooth?

jproy

I really dont know if that would cause your symptoms but I can tell you that I had to stare at and play with the timing belt for about an hour before I finally got it right. It would be easy to have it look right, engage the tbelt tensioner, and then it be off by a cog. I was able to mess it up myself. I think all would be well if it was messed up but it would wreak havoc with the ECU. To see if they are lined up correctly you must engage the tensioner and then roll the crank over a few times. It seems likely this is what has happend to you. All you have to do is remove the cam shaft gear timing belt covers. you can see the pulley indicator without removing anything. I really dont think it would be possible for the belt to skip a tooth. If it had or could, I think other catostrophic damage would have caused it to or would have occured because of the ability for it to happen. Jim

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

wish you lived closer b/c I'm not the best at messing w/ the internals of the engine but your assumption seems to fit in right. I forgot to post this but the codes the CEL was throwing was P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P305, P0306, P1399. The shop diagnostics found ignition timing was all wrong. Also, they told me to consider replacing the pulley and tensioner, plus they found some P/S leak.

jproy

I am going to take my motor apart again in a week or so. I will take pics of specificly what you need to look at lined up like it needs to be and I will draw on the pics what you are looking for. You can do it yourself and it is quite simple. I have to remove the timing belt and the top half of the motor again for some top secret work.

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

good luck and thanks for the help!

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

so i've decided to take my car to Driving Ambition in Sac where I got tuned and just let them handle it b/c the CEL is back on again and those are the only ppl I am confident will know how to fix the car.

adlx21

how much they charging u for a tuneup. i think i should get one..

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

if you want i can give you the number, their labor rate is a little high, but i guess thats the price you have to pay to have it done right

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

oh, forgot, $150hr for tune

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

Good news for now, the shop called today and said the car is ready to go. The car was pulling codes for the crank sensors and cam sensor. They swapped in 2 new crank sensors(1 for the transmission and 1 for the timing belt) and cam sensor. According to the shop the car runs hard all the way up to redline w/ no CEL. I think the last shop I went to fucked me over which really pisses me off b/c I blew $800 for nothing. Anways, I'll have an update by tomm. on if my problem is FINALLY gone... knock on wood. Oh, and Jim, hows the motor work? Thinking about getting a UR SC Crank again. I had one, but I got rid of it for some reason. If all goes good tomm. should I invest in one again?

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

Just GREAT; got a call from the shop telling me they dynoed the car and the same numbers were coming up as before when the CEL was on. WTF!!! Maybe it's the cat?! I'm bringing my stock one tomm. and hopefully that solves the issue.

Allout

At least the CEL's are gone. I'm sure they reset the ECU but it may be worth checking.

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

Wow, the cat cost me almost 30hp!!! The bill was gross, but I guess well worth it. Should've taken it to Shad's in the first place. Only problem was that my numbers are still low and he wants to dig deeper into it so I might go back in a month or so. Also, he recomended changing the tensioner and pulley sooner than later. That isn't that hard right? The thing pulls but too bad its not at its fullest potential