fbazakos

ok first of newbies take notes, i did a search first, and also checked Chod's FAQ before asking...

I'm about to install those goodridge brakelines. How much brake fluid do I need, I'm assuming by changing all 4 brake lines i'll loose most if not all? Which brand should we use? Anybody have good instructions or advice? I've heard there is a tool that helps you bleed the lines? If we get some good responses, it will be good to put to the FAQ. Oh, and I'm doing this in MN, in mid-November, and it is 68 degrees today !!! No work for me today baby!!! Oh, and I can't even find a shop to pay to put these on, so I'm stuck doing it. thanks...

moomaster_99

Okay...you're going to have to bleed all the brake lines...one at a time. No air in the brake lines at all. I think a small one should be enough, but if it doesn't hurt to buy a big container..16oz...of brake fluid...it should be at least DOT 4. I used Valvoline...doesn't matter, just make sure it's DOT 4.The tool that helps bleed the lines is a vacuum sucker thing...you probably won't have it unless you are doing it at a shop. It's really simple...don't worry about it....just make sure you pump out all the fluid...pump 4 times..and then 1 hard pump and hold....., do that like 2-3 time for each line.

soopa

a brake bleeder is used mainly for cleanliness...

BUT... its also said that its safer to PULL fluid out of the brake system the to push it out (which you do by pumping brakes).

You can buy lil hand pump bleeders... check out www.griotsgarage.com or something. Everyone sells them.

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

Well, you did a search, and checked the FAQ... did you read the manual??

Other then that I agree with everything Moo said.....

fbazakos

when you say pump, you mean the brake pedal inside the car? so I just keep filling the reservoir in the engine bay? hey moo do you have AIM?

soopa

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=85700

blxmjx

Fotis, it would help if you had someone to assist you while doing the lines. That way he/she could pump the pedal while you are doing the brake bleed.

blxmjx

Bleeding Process

Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.)

Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don’t lose it!


Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement. (If you do not have an offset wrench, avoid pushing the wrench head to the bottom of the bleeder screw – since the wrench may interfere with other parts during movement. Allow a standard wrench to sit near the top of the bleeder screw contact point.)


Place one end of the plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.


Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.


Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum unit. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.


Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.


Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)


Close the bleeder screw by tightening it.


Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!


The assistant should respond with "released."


Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.


Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level above the seam line. (Typically we repeat this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard’ bleed.)


Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!


When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.


Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)


Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.


Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir! Dispose of the fluid as you would motor oil.

ChodTheWacko

Allo

Okay, I don't know a damn thing about changing brake lines,
so I have the following questions:

1) what is DOT 4? Some kind of rating I assume, but for what?
2) If I understand this right, the act of bleeding is to remove
the rest of the brake line fluid to replace it with new fluid?
3) At what stage in the game do you bleed the lines?
Do you replace the brake lines, and then bleed?

Thanks! This will certainly get FAQed once I figure out what
y'all are talking about!

CLpower

isn't griots awesome

CLpower

the numbers after DOT refer to the boiling point of the brake fluid. DOT 5 is used on most race cars, DOT 4 on most performance cars.


you should bleed the brakes about every 50K or whenever it's time to change your brake fluid.


i'm not sure if you need to replace them when you bleed them

soopa

yea, you must bleed them after you complete your install.

soopa

ultimate bathroom reading material!

... if i had a million dollars.......

astro

bleeding the brakes is not removing the old fluid necessarily, it's more to get the air out of the lines...Air expands when it gets warm and it also compresses more than Brake Fluid...that could cause failure while driving, that's why it's so important to bleed them properly...

CLpower

ya, i use so much of their shit, spent a whole weeks pay check on like 400$ worth of shit one day

i even have that red nozzle that's 100$

it's fuckin awesome, it's currently taken apart though cause i'm polishing it

SinnedTL

Okay so you change the brake lines first and then bleed the brakes, but if your changing the lines, how do you keep from the brake oil getting all over the place during the install??? Do you drain alllll the brake fluid first, how do you change the brake lines??? BTW how do you go about loosening the brake lines and when you tighten them back on, how many lbs. of torque should you used to put them back in place???

I wanna do mine eventually...

EricL

Word of note -- I don't know if this is worth $hit...

I noticed in the VSA section, that it (ABS/VSA “pump”) has a reservoir that is filled with brake fluid (the same DOT-3 that comes with the car). If someone "bleeds" the system and doesn't change the fluid in the VSA/ABS control unit (sorry, no Helms right now), they would be mixing the stock and replacement fluids.

Perhaps Jens, acura_service, and/or others would like to comment on this issue...

mackdaddy

Agree with EricL, no need to mix in DOT4 fluid. DOT3 fluid will work just fine, as that's what the car uses now anyway.

.02

EricL

Well, I just was referring to the less than obvious location of additional DOT-3 fluid "lurking outside" of the normal "flush" loop/service areas/reservoirs/lines/etc. as has been described around here...

In other words, be sure to look or get someone to look at the Helms (in the section around the VSA)...

(As a note, my Bimmer lived on high boiling point brake [please don't break] fluid!)

moomaster_99

When you are upgrading your brake lines or rotors...you would be well-advised to use at least a DOT 4...because you are now suing high performance parts that can stress the stock components (ie. the DOT 3 fluid) more than what would normally occur.

gmilian

this is what i heard to. my bro has one for his motorcycle, it's a cheap little thing.

gmilian

oh yeah, has anyone used comptech brake lines and/or brake pads. my friend is gonna try to hook it up for me and wanted to know if it's worth it. even without a hook up it doesn't seem to expensive for both. i think it was $120 or so for the lines, and $80 for the pads.

moomaster_99

If you want the Metal Masters...I'll get you the front pads for $60

gmilian

sounds good. i'll have to see how much my friend can get 'em first. so any word on comptech brake lines???

blxmjx

I still have some lines leftover from before. They are made by goodridge and are carbo lined stainless steel. Comptech probably has their lines outsourced to goodridge too. Goodridge makes a lot of the aftermarket s/s brake line kits such as stillen and trd. The lines are $100.00 shipped.