NighthawkBlue

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=Loctite
Was a thread speaking of how using anti seize on the hub and lug nuts makes the torque pounds requirement less. "Most torque specs are for a clean, dry thread. If you lube it you will then put more torque on the fastener than intended." (see chart 1/2 way down and posts including Siggy & EricLs). While not dissing air torqueing, it raised q of would shop make adjustment. Or would it be better to simply insist on hand torqueing and even then at a lesser poundage when using anti seize?

I'm hoping we have some mechanics weigh in. Because I am finding:

Some shops like Discount Tire are claiming they have some gizmo that acts as a go-between from tourque gun to lug nuts that will not allow the gun to torque over 75 lbs.

1. Is that true? Even if true, when using anti seize, the poundage requirement is lowered as much as 20% which would be about 55 lbs requirement. So with this gizmo, 75 lbs is still way over. What are we to do. Hover over them and make sure they set it at 55?

2. As EricL posted, some shops simply blow off suggestions to use anti seize and to hand torque. Aside from telling them to %^&* off and die and refuse to use their services, what can we do? Me i personally will either watch (they can jam that "insurance requires no one watch" sign and line up their ass). But i really do not want hostile confrontations. Any ideas? Mechanics?

GreenMonster

Those are called torque sticks and are supposed to be reliable... Might not be accurate, but they'll torque all the lugs evenly...

Type S Zero

unless you have open top lug nuts and take them off once every 2 years, i don't see why you should put grease on the lugs.

i'm a mechanic at acura and we never have any problem taking the nuts off. grease on threads are for 1985 old cars with open top rusty nuts : water and dirt gets in there, nut threads and lug threads rust and makes it problematic to take off. acura nuts and most newer nuts barely rust, and with closed head nuts, it keeps the threads clean.

the sitcks they put on the gun is accu-torq. the blue ones for honda are calibrated for 80 lbs.

i've been using mine everyday for the past three years (here in canada with winter tires or wheels + brakes maintenance required more often because of the conditions and salty roads, we undo the wheels quite often in a day). the other day we checked it for fun : torque the 5 wheel nuts with my air gun (ingersoll titanium, one of the most powerful ˝drive) using my accu-torq. marked every nut's position with a marker on the nut + on the wheel. one by one i unbolted them and retorqued them with a recently calibrated snap-on ˝ torque wrench set at 80 lbs..... all 5 were aligned at the exact same position.

Dan

Must just be a old fart, they don't torque by hand, they don't get my business.

NighthawkBlue

That is good to know. Now if we knew the correct accu-torq was being used.

Reason for anti-seizing lug nutts was in part "I speak from experience; I had the car shaking from a slight radial eccentricity in the front wheels due, in part, from a lack of grease and careful hand torquing."

Also chart show using anti seize change the torque pound requirement. Yes/No?

2. Hub. This is an absolute for using anti seize? Such as on a new rotor or when reinstalling a turned rotor?