Another Rotora Ques??
04-06-2006, 09:02 PM
#1
proffesion...axle breaker
Thread Starter
Another Rotora Ques??
just got my slotted Rotoras in and planning on getting them installed next week.
With all the prior warping issues before....im now going to ask if there are any secrets or tricks that you guys have learned from past experiences/installs that you wish you would have done differently to prevent warping? just for a lil heads up.
And your break in methods?
With all the prior warping issues before....im now going to ask if there are any secrets or tricks that you guys have learned from past experiences/installs that you wish you would have done differently to prevent warping? just for a lil heads up.
And your break in methods?
04-06-2006, 09:09 PM
#2
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1 - Do not overtorque your lug nuts
2 - Go easy on your brakes for the first few hundred miles
3 - Bed the pads using the following instructions
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
2 - Go easy on your brakes for the first few hundred miles
3 - Bed the pads using the following instructions
Taken from Stoptech's website
PREVENTION
There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing - following proper break in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions. All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.
In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 0.9 G’s and above, depending on the vehicle. What you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.7 to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded.
For a race pad, typically four 80mph to 5 and two 100mph to 5, depending on the pad, will also be necessary to raise the system temperatures during break-in to the range that the pad material was designed to operate at. Hence, the higher temperature material can establish its layer completely and uniformly on the disc surface.
Fortunately the procedure is also good for the discs and will relieve any residual thermal stresses left over from the casting process (all discs should be thermally stress relieved as one of the last manufacturing processes) and will transfer the smooth layer of pad material onto the disc. If possible, new discs should be bedded with used pads of the same compound that will be used going forward. Again, heat should be put into the system gradually - increasingly hard stops with cool off time in between. Part of the idea is to avoid prolonged contact between pad and disc. With abrasive pads (which should not be used on high performance cars) the disc can be considered bedded when the friction surfaces have attained an even blue color. With the carbon metallic type pads, bedding is complete when the friction surfaces of the disc are a consistent gray or black. In any case, the discoloration of a completely broken in disc will be complete and uniform.
PREVENTION
There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing - following proper break in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions. All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.
In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 0.9 G’s and above, depending on the vehicle. What you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.7 to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded.
For a race pad, typically four 80mph to 5 and two 100mph to 5, depending on the pad, will also be necessary to raise the system temperatures during break-in to the range that the pad material was designed to operate at. Hence, the higher temperature material can establish its layer completely and uniformly on the disc surface.
Fortunately the procedure is also good for the discs and will relieve any residual thermal stresses left over from the casting process (all discs should be thermally stress relieved as one of the last manufacturing processes) and will transfer the smooth layer of pad material onto the disc. If possible, new discs should be bedded with used pads of the same compound that will be used going forward. Again, heat should be put into the system gradually - increasingly hard stops with cool off time in between. Part of the idea is to avoid prolonged contact between pad and disc. With abrasive pads (which should not be used on high performance cars) the disc can be considered bedded when the friction surfaces have attained an even blue color. With the carbon metallic type pads, bedding is complete when the friction surfaces of the disc are a consistent gray or black. In any case, the discoloration of a completely broken in disc will be complete and uniform.
04-06-2006, 09:22 PM
#4
proffesion...axle breaker
Thread Starter
Quote: (In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 0.9 G’s and above, depending on the vehicle. What you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.7 to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded.)
So thats sayin to get about 5 to 7 runs of Hard breaks in...but just to the point before ABS Locks. Isnt that considered Not taking it easy though? which is the opposite of what you said in #2....im not trying to dig you..im just asking
So thats sayin to get about 5 to 7 runs of Hard breaks in...but just to the point before ABS Locks. Isnt that considered Not taking it easy though? which is the opposite of what you said in #2....im not trying to dig you..im just asking
04-07-2006, 08:25 AM
#6
Follow the instrustions that come with the rotors. You'll be fine.
Don't be hard on the brakes for 100 miles.
Don't heat them up & go through water.
TQ lug nuts
Also see if the shop can check the runout of the rotors with a guage before you button it up. Just to make sure the rotors are not warped out of the box.
Don't be hard on the brakes for 100 miles.
Don't heat them up & go through water.
TQ lug nuts
Also see if the shop can check the runout of the rotors with a guage before you button it up. Just to make sure the rotors are not warped out of the box.
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04-08-2006, 12:20 PM
#8
proffesion...axle breaker
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
Don't heat them up & go through water.
Also see if the shop can check the runout of the rotors with a guage before you button it up. Just to make sure the rotors are not warped out of the box.
Also see if the shop can check the runout of the rotors with a guage before you button it up. Just to make sure the rotors are not warped out of the box.
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