scalbert

Just thought I'd drop a quick post about the Amp install I did a few weeks ago. This may help some if deciding to go the amp route.

This is in with the stock head unit and stock speakers. IMO, the system sounds about 250% better. It even helped the low end, sharpening the response. But my primary objective was for more volume which I have definitely acheived. I have the gain at only about 30% and at full volume the speakers are about to blow. But I don't turn it up there often.

What I am really surprised about is how well it sounds. There is no hissing as I would of expected at least a little. But just clear sound that is crisper and attains higher volumes than before.

This is hooked up after the factory amp using the speaker level inputs on the Pioneer Amp. I will eventually replace the factory speakers but wanted an incremental step to determine how quickly I should make the purchase.

WebToker

So give us the good info. Like how did you wired the speakers and stuff.

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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
San Marino Red/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Nose Mask/Mud Guards/Wheel locks/
Comptech Springs & Filter/PIAA 1969/20% Tint/Acura lettering removed/
12in Sub with AMP/Dynomated Trunk/Sub control under dash/
Clifford G4 Solaris Alarm

[This message has been edited by WebToker (edited 01-12-2001).]

scalbert

Really just basic. I ran the power from the battery and found a good ground lug. I used the factory amp remote turn on and just tapped it.

As for the speakers leads, I just cut them and spliced in. Taking each channel output from the factory amp into the speaker level input of the Pioneer. The the output of the Pioneer back to the other side of the cut wire that fed the speaker.

I located the amp there to keep it out of the way and because the factory amp is almost right behind the Pioneer. So just about two feet of speaker wire was needed per channel, one foot into the Pioneer and one foot back.

Took me about an hour total and the Amp cost about $230 on-line.

WebToker

So did you run the speaker wire to the speakers? What I need to find out is if anyone knows what wires are coming out from the stock amp to the speakers. I have an amp for my subs already and I got a Pheonix Gold amp for my mids but I havn't installed the amp for the mids becuase of it.



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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
San Marino Red/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Nose Mask/Mud Guards/Wheel locks/
Comptech Springs & Filter/PIAA 1969/20% Tint/Acura lettering removed/
12in Sub with AMP/Dynomated Trunk/Sub control under dash/
Clifford G4 Solaris Alarm

CO-CL-S

I'm surprised you didn't bypass the factory amp completely?

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Eat Safe, Use Condiments
red CL-S, non-Nav

CO-CL-S

I'm surprised you didn't bypass the factory amp completely?

------------------
Eat Safe, Use Condiments
red CL-S, non-Nav

WebToker

Thats what I was thinking. Anyone know how to do that, as in what the wire codes are?



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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
San Marino Red/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Nose Mask/Mud Guards/Wheel locks/
Comptech Springs & Filter/PIAA 1969/20% Tint/Acura lettering removed/
12in Sub with AMP/Dynomated Trunk/Sub control under dash/
Clifford G4 Solaris Alarm

NOVAwhiteTypeS

hey wat color wire is the remote on/off for the amp? when i turn my amp off it don't turn off right.

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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers soon now that I have a JOB again. hehe

gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load.

mr tl

can the tl owner bud in here? thanks...

scalbert, thats wild. i didnt think your be able to power 2 ohm speakers with an aftermarket amp. thats great. how would you describe the improvement?
where is the amp for the sub located? behind that panel?



WebToker, i ran new wires to all my door speakers. its irritating to do. i wont bother giving you the wire colors since they MIGHT be different from the cls

you cant bypass the factory amp, its in the hu. the one in your trunk is for the sub. or correct me if im wrong with the cls

remote wire should be blue, no?

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99 TL

WebToker

Ok, Mr. TL, I have told you over and over the CL and the TL don't have the same system. ;P Now, can anyone tell me the wire codes for the factory amp?


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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
San Marino Red/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Nose Mask/Mud Guards/Wheel locks/
Comptech Springs & Filter/PIAA 1969/20% Tint/Acura lettering removed/
12in Sub with AMP/Dynomated Trunk/Sub control under dash/
Clifford G4 Solaris Alarm

Shawn S

I posted the Audio Schematics here:Schematics

Shawn S

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>>> 400+ posts on h/a.net <<< >>> 550+ posts “freak” on the “old” acura-cl.com <<<

2001 CL Type S - NAV - San Marino RED / Parchment - Spoiler - 35% Tint - Roof Visor - PIAA Lamps
GOLD Emblems & Grill - V1 w/remote - KICKER ZR-360 w/(2) 10" Alumapro Subs - Shine by ZAINO
For Pictures see: PAGE 1 PAGE 2 PAGE 3 PAGE 4 V1 & SUBS

Jayru

the standard color is BLUE!



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WebToker

Thanks Shawn, you rock. This is exactly what I needed. Any chance I could get you to post the wire info for the head lamps and floods?



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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
San Marino Red/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Nose Mask/Mud Guards/Wheel locks/
Comptech Springs & Filter/PIAA 1969/20% Tint/Acura lettering removed/
12in Sub with AMP/Dynomated Trunk/Sub control under dash/
Clifford G4 Solaris Alarm

WebToker

Correct me if I am wrong Shawn, from the looks of page 22-148, I can just bypass the amp right? I wonder if that will affect the navi.

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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
San Marino Red/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Nose Mask/Mud Guards/Wheel locks/
Comptech Springs & Filter/PIAA 1969/20% Tint/Acura lettering removed/
12in Sub with AMP/Dynomated Trunk/Sub control under dash/
Clifford G4 Solaris Alarm

NOVAwhiteTypeS

Damn, Shawn u got all da hookupz. thnx for da post.

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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers soon now that I have a JOB again. hehe

gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load.

ackinup

I did the same that scalbert did, and I totally agree the sound is amazing over stock. The amp to the left is what is powering the factory speakers:

CO-CL-S

My CL "Electrical Troubleshooting 2001" P/N 61S3M00EL PL 1100.2000.06.1 book has the stereo in section 150? It shows the Control switch B+ as being YEL/WHT to the rear amp.

------------------
Eat Safe, Use Condiments
red CL-S, non-Nav

scalbert

No, I didn't run new speaker wires as a whole. Just spliced into the factory wires and used my own to run to the amp and then back to the factory wires. Just a couple of feet of my speaker wire. The factory is still retained.

I can bring my manual back in Monday, scan the page with the wiring codes and post it for ya. Give me until noon on Monday and I'll post it to my companies site for access.

scalbert

I had considered that. But I wanted to retain the Nav voice system which without the factory amp would be lost. Other than that I would of bypassed it.

Actually, now looking at the diagram the above statement is incorrect. Hrmm, I'm going to test the inputs to the amp and see what the level is. A change might be in order

[This message has been edited by scalbert (edited 01-13-2001).]

scalbert

No. 5 Terminal: Yellow w/ White stripe

scalbert

The TL and CL are different. The CL has no dedicated sub, just the 6x9's in the rear deck which are run off of the same amp as the rest of the speakers.

The Amp I put in is for 2 - 8 Ohm speakers, so it wasn't an issue.

As for the improvement, significant and certainly more defined. What appears to be the most significant, besides the definite volume level increase, is the low end. It seems that the Pioneer is able to drive the 6x9's much more efficiently. The response from them is soo much sharper, I was truly surprised.

And as a result (many of you will understand this) my wife even made a comment on how much better it sounded. This should not be taken lightly...

fender4

thanks for the picture of the cargo net in the trunk, Mine was delivered in a ball: now I know where it goes.

CLS ACT

That's AWESOME Shawn, this link should go straight into the FAQ's/Links Section



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<A HREF="http://rrw.d2g.com" TARGET=_blank>The Red Rocket
</A>

Shawn S

Ask and you shall receive........

Light Schematics



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&gt;&gt;&gt; 400+ posts on h/a.net &lt;&lt;&lt; &gt;&gt;&gt; 550+ posts “freak” on the “old” acura-cl.com &lt;&lt;&lt;

2001 CL Type S - NAV - San Marino RED / Parchment - Spoiler - 35% Tint - Roof Visor - PIAA Lamps
GOLD Emblems & Grill - V1 w/remote - KICKER ZR-360 w/(2) 10" Alumapro Subs - Shine by ZAINO
For Pictures see: PAGE 1 PAGE 2 PAGE 3 PAGE 4 V1 & SUBS

astro

amen to that my brother


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Astroboy out...
2001 Acura Cl Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks

icy CL

do the tweeters have their own wires coming out of thestock amp. the reason i'm asking is because i plan to change the door speakers and tweeters this weekend and was just wondering where the crossover for the stock tweeters are now. are they built in into the stock speakers or tweeters, are they somewhere in the trunk by the amp, cuz obviously, when i buy component speakers, i will be using the crossovers that come with the speakers i buy. thanks!

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CL-P....icy white!
moon roof visor
mud guards
genuine acura nose mask
genuine acura burlwood shift knob
polarg m-12 on blinkers
m-4s on internal lamps
m-4 on rear plate lamp
piaa bulbs on road lamps
K&N drop in filter
Catz XLO Driving lights
zaino polish
"i drive it like my grandma....j/k"