Allright, Allright. Bought V-1
#1
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Allright, Allright. Bought V-1
So I asked if there were any other radars that you would suggest over V-1. Some were very crazy over V-1 and basically took it a little to personal. But after reading everyone's responses and how good V-1 really seems to be from them. I went ahead and bought it today. Now just waiting to get it and then set it up. Thanks, now I can test out my top speed and not worry, well maybe.
#3
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The "best" radar detector is your common sense, i.e.-look up on bridges for the boys in blue; on ramps; behind trees; in your mirror every 3-5 seconds, etc. Other than that, Congrats and all dat! See Shawn S'how to hardwire install in the garage section. I followed his lead and did it in about 10 minutes-definitely worth the effort.
#7
Are you placing it behind the tint in the top of the windshield, or on one side of the mirror?
Anyone test out if our tint is metalic or not? It would cut down laser detection (which is useless anyway), but what about xkka?
(almost got the V1, but went with the 8500)
Anyone test out if our tint is metalic or not? It would cut down laser detection (which is useless anyway), but what about xkka?
(almost got the V1, but went with the 8500)
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#8
I have my V1 mounted high on the windshield. Shot the car with a laser rangefinder from about 1/4 mile away, both from the front and the back, the V1 performed flawlessly.
#10
Originally posted by fast_daddy_car:
<STRONG>So you have your V1 completely in the tint band on our windshield, or is the front part of the detector just below the tint line?</STRONG>
<STRONG>So you have your V1 completely in the tint band on our windshield, or is the front part of the detector just below the tint line?</STRONG>
#13
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Originally posted by Iridium130:
<STRONG>What's a V1? Isn't that a missle of some sort?![Confused](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
:p</STRONG>
<STRONG>What's a V1? Isn't that a missle of some sort?
![Confused](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
:p</STRONG>
![Confused](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
edit: testing sig. can someone verify that the link works?
[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: vince ]
#14
Originally posted by amirsafdari:
<STRONG>how much are V1's???</STRONG>
<STRONG>how much are V1's???</STRONG>
I found someone at work who has the V1 (Valentine-1 radar detector). It is much nicer and polished looking over the pictures on the web site.
It was $399, another $40 for the remote display (optional), plus shipping. Its not cheap and I still think it is overpriced.
They are resonable on the shipping charges. From my price for next day air, I would say they are charging actual cost. It was much cheaper to send this next day than other web places for ground UPS.
[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: fast_daddy_car ]
#15
Subie Dubie
I just had my V1 hardwired this week, and i agree that it looks more compact in person. Ads make it look bulkier than it is imho.
I am currently using the visor location on the passenger side, anyone have an opinion if this is less effective than suction cupping to the windshield ? I like the stability, but don't want to lose performance.
I am currently using the visor location on the passenger side, anyone have an opinion if this is less effective than suction cupping to the windshield ? I like the stability, but don't want to lose performance.
#16
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Originally posted by Red Rider:
<STRONG>I am currently using the visor location on the passenger side, anyone have an opinion if this is less effective than suction cupping to the windshield ? </STRONG>
<STRONG>I am currently using the visor location on the passenger side, anyone have an opinion if this is less effective than suction cupping to the windshield ? </STRONG>
Placing it on the drivers side allows for it to “look” directly through the center of the car and out the back window.
If you put it on the passenger side, the “eye’s” are too far to the side of the car’s interior.
Shawn S
#17
What mode do most people use, Logic or Advanced Logic?
For hardwiring, did you pop off the a-pilar plastic or try to snake it through? If you popped it off, did it go back on right, and where did you pull from?
For a power source, we actually have a fuse box on both sides of the dash to tap into! I also prefer fanning the wires and using an existing fuse rather than cutting a wire.
Has anyone played with programming feature #8 (muted volume set to zero)? What would be really neat is to have the button activate a full mute, and still have the feature of full sound then low-level after 10 seconds (current default). Would setting #8 give this functionality, or does it just deactivate the second volume control?
[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: fast_daddy_car ]
For hardwiring, did you pop off the a-pilar plastic or try to snake it through? If you popped it off, did it go back on right, and where did you pull from?
For a power source, we actually have a fuse box on both sides of the dash to tap into! I also prefer fanning the wires and using an existing fuse rather than cutting a wire.
Has anyone played with programming feature #8 (muted volume set to zero)? What would be really neat is to have the button activate a full mute, and still have the feature of full sound then low-level after 10 seconds (current default). Would setting #8 give this functionality, or does it just deactivate the second volume control?
[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: fast_daddy_car ]
#18
Originally posted by Shawn S:
<STRONG>
The “Eye’s” on the V1 for the rear RADAR/LASER detection are on the right side of the unit.
</STRONG>
<STRONG>
The “Eye’s” on the V1 for the rear RADAR/LASER detection are on the right side of the unit.
</STRONG>
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.valentine1.com/demo/demo1.asp
#19
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Originally posted by fast_daddy_car:
<STRONG>
Actually, the laser detection is on the left side </STRONG>
<STRONG>
Actually, the laser detection is on the left side </STRONG>
I would show you a photo, but PhotoPoint is down for some reason.
Shawn S
#20
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Originally posted by fast_daddy_car:
<STRONG>What mode do most people use, Logic or Advanced Logic?
For hardwiring, did you pop off the a-pilar plastic or try to snake it through? If you popped it off, did it go back on right, and where did you pull from?
For a power source, we actually have a fuse box on both sides of the dash to tap into! I also prefer fanning the wires and using an existing fuse rather than cutting a wire.
Has anyone played with programming feature #8 (muted volume set to zero)? What would be really neat is to have the button activate a full mute, and still have the feature of full sound then low-level after 10 seconds (current default). Would setting #8 give this functionality, or does it just deactivate the second volume control?
[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: fast_daddy_car ]</STRONG>
<STRONG>What mode do most people use, Logic or Advanced Logic?
For hardwiring, did you pop off the a-pilar plastic or try to snake it through? If you popped it off, did it go back on right, and where did you pull from?
For a power source, we actually have a fuse box on both sides of the dash to tap into! I also prefer fanning the wires and using an existing fuse rather than cutting a wire.
Has anyone played with programming feature #8 (muted volume set to zero)? What would be really neat is to have the button activate a full mute, and still have the feature of full sound then low-level after 10 seconds (current default). Would setting #8 give this functionality, or does it just deactivate the second volume control?
[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: fast_daddy_car ]</STRONG>
I have my mute button [programmed] set to full mute so that when I tap the button, you cannot hear any sound whatsoever. I think the default is to mute to the lever setting which I didn't like because the lowest lever setting was not full mute.
#21
pgatour1..........."admit it, you like it". Quick pointer. Make sure your V-1 isn't too high on the front windshield---it needs to "see" out the back to catch bogeys from behind. Do a level line of sight from the front of the unit to the back window and make sure it's below he very top of the rear window.
#22
Originally posted by kensteele:
<STRONG>
I have my mute button [programmed] set to full mute so that when I tap the button, you cannot hear any sound whatsoever. I think the default is to mute to the lever setting which I didn't like because the lowest lever setting was not full mute.</STRONG>
<STRONG>
I have my mute button [programmed] set to full mute so that when I tap the button, you cannot hear any sound whatsoever. I think the default is to mute to the lever setting which I didn't like because the lowest lever setting was not full mute.</STRONG>
Ok, I played with the #8 setting, doesn't exactly do what I was hoping for.
For the sound, I like the 8500 better in theory. When you get a hit, its at the setted volume. Then in a few seconds it drops down in volume (but you can't set that lower volume, its preset). Then you can totally mute it by pushing the button on the remote display.
For the V1, it stays loud unless you push the button, in which case its either sound adjustable or off. I liked the 3-position setting of the 8500.
According to the programming manual, the V1 will auto-mute on K-band after 10 seconds, but I could not get this to happen, or maybe I didn't notice it?
#23
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Originally posted by fast_daddy_car:
<STRONG>
Ok, I played with the #8 setting, doesn't exactly do what I was hoping for.
For the sound, I like the 8500 better in theory. When you get a hit, its at the setted volume. Then in a few seconds it drops down in volume (but you can't set that lower volume, its preset). Then you can totally mute it by pushing the button on the remote display.
For the V1, it stays loud unless you push the button, in which case its either sound adjustable or off. I liked the 3-position setting of the 8500.
According to the programming manual, the V1 will auto-mute on K-band after 10 seconds, but I could not get this to happen, or maybe I didn't notice it?</STRONG>
<STRONG>
Ok, I played with the #8 setting, doesn't exactly do what I was hoping for.
For the sound, I like the 8500 better in theory. When you get a hit, its at the setted volume. Then in a few seconds it drops down in volume (but you can't set that lower volume, its preset). Then you can totally mute it by pushing the button on the remote display.
For the V1, it stays loud unless you push the button, in which case its either sound adjustable or off. I liked the 3-position setting of the 8500.
According to the programming manual, the V1 will auto-mute on K-band after 10 seconds, but I could not get this to happen, or maybe I didn't notice it?</STRONG>
I personally would like a display that you can control via eye contact. If you look at the mute sensor, the display mutes to a level one setting, look at it again, it mutes completely. For a lesser cost, voice activation.
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#24
mini review of v1 (software 3.619) vs 8500
Had the v1 for a day (I know, not much). drove around town tonight to try it.
1) I have the remote display on the lighter plug. I think it is better mounted on the wheel like Shawn suggested, so you can see the arrows and what is going on without taking eyes off the road.
8500 remote display sucks and is worthless. It only has a mute button and a red led.
2) A better display would be nice, in that I wish the label next to the led for the radar band would also light up at night. Detector goes off, I look at display, I see dots but at night I can't tell if its x,k,ka. In the day I can see the labels.
8500 wins here, very nice easy to read quickly display.
3) Direction arrows. Its very nice knowing if you pass a hit or false.
4) I think I know why the V1 gets a higher bogey count in a mall over the 8500. I think the 8500 counts specific frequencies. This would reduce bouncing effect, as the real signal and a bounce from an automatic door would still be the same freq and only give a 1 count.
I think the V1 counts frequency and signal strength from both antennas. So a single auto door could register as 4 or more.
At least this is what I have observed.
5) the V1 is much more sensitive. I have it mounted about an inch from the top of the windshield, completely in the shaded band. Both the front and rear antenna pick up my false signals at a much greater range over the 8500. (both units tested at a max setting)
6) I think the 8500 does a better job at reducing falses. I think this is because the 8500 will reduce its sensitivity, where the V1 (as stated in the manual) is always at full antenna pickup but adjusts the alerts based on its software (full logic mode).
Here is where the arrows can get you into into trouble. You are driving and get a K hit, bogey=2, in front. As you pass the mall, the bogey goes to 1, and the arrows show you pass it. Quarter mile later you are hit with K instant on and nailed. You may say since the bogey went from 2 to 1 something is up, but since the V1 double and triple counts automatic doors you would just assume it was the K band auto door causing interference.
With the 8500 in this scenario, I would remain slow as it usually does not double-up on auto doors.
(did I mention I really really hate all these new k band auto doors!!!)
7) The rear antenna is nice on the V1, especially on the highway, but I would like to turn down just the rear sensitivity when in local traffic. In full logic mode, I have had the front antenna not report an auto-door (very nice), but then the rear antenna would report it! (in little-L mode, both antenna report the hit) And this is with the V1 mounted on the right side of the car, with the visor partially blocking it! So I don't think it really matters where you mount the V1, nothing escapes it!
I will have to play with the V1 some more to see which one I will keep (V1 or 8500). I would really like a hybrid unit! I think the V1 maybe needs another mode (super special dumbed down logic mode?)
Maybe I will play with settings BCD, which control auto-mute time delay for K band. May be good for my local mode driving.
Had the v1 for a day (I know, not much). drove around town tonight to try it.
1) I have the remote display on the lighter plug. I think it is better mounted on the wheel like Shawn suggested, so you can see the arrows and what is going on without taking eyes off the road.
8500 remote display sucks and is worthless. It only has a mute button and a red led.
2) A better display would be nice, in that I wish the label next to the led for the radar band would also light up at night. Detector goes off, I look at display, I see dots but at night I can't tell if its x,k,ka. In the day I can see the labels.
8500 wins here, very nice easy to read quickly display.
3) Direction arrows. Its very nice knowing if you pass a hit or false.
4) I think I know why the V1 gets a higher bogey count in a mall over the 8500. I think the 8500 counts specific frequencies. This would reduce bouncing effect, as the real signal and a bounce from an automatic door would still be the same freq and only give a 1 count.
I think the V1 counts frequency and signal strength from both antennas. So a single auto door could register as 4 or more.
At least this is what I have observed.
5) the V1 is much more sensitive. I have it mounted about an inch from the top of the windshield, completely in the shaded band. Both the front and rear antenna pick up my false signals at a much greater range over the 8500. (both units tested at a max setting)
6) I think the 8500 does a better job at reducing falses. I think this is because the 8500 will reduce its sensitivity, where the V1 (as stated in the manual) is always at full antenna pickup but adjusts the alerts based on its software (full logic mode).
Here is where the arrows can get you into into trouble. You are driving and get a K hit, bogey=2, in front. As you pass the mall, the bogey goes to 1, and the arrows show you pass it. Quarter mile later you are hit with K instant on and nailed. You may say since the bogey went from 2 to 1 something is up, but since the V1 double and triple counts automatic doors you would just assume it was the K band auto door causing interference.
With the 8500 in this scenario, I would remain slow as it usually does not double-up on auto doors.
(did I mention I really really hate all these new k band auto doors!!!)
7) The rear antenna is nice on the V1, especially on the highway, but I would like to turn down just the rear sensitivity when in local traffic. In full logic mode, I have had the front antenna not report an auto-door (very nice), but then the rear antenna would report it! (in little-L mode, both antenna report the hit) And this is with the V1 mounted on the right side of the car, with the visor partially blocking it! So I don't think it really matters where you mount the V1, nothing escapes it!
I will have to play with the V1 some more to see which one I will keep (V1 or 8500). I would really like a hybrid unit! I think the V1 maybe needs another mode (super special dumbed down logic mode?)
Maybe I will play with settings BCD, which control auto-mute time delay for K band. May be good for my local mode driving.
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