2001 Acura CL Engine Rebuild
10-31-2023, 06:41 PM
#1
2001 Acura CL Engine Rebuild
I have a 01 CL Premium with 260k miles and I知 considering doing an engine rebuild to prevent it from blowing up in the near future and I also just want to learn a little bit about engines along the way. If I知 understanding the service manual correctly, the 2G CLs prior to 2002 all came with the J32A1 regardless of the trim level, but the 02/03 Type-S models came with the J32A2 engine. Based on what I致e read on this forum, these engines have the exact same block but different heads as well as some other subtle differences. However, looking at the head (part #12100-P8E-306) on various OEM Acura parts sites, the same head is used on, or at least compatible across 01-03 Base/Premium and Type-S trims. Same goes for the connecting rods (part #1320-PGE-A00) and the crankshaft (part #13310-PGE-A00). The valves, rocker arms, pistons, and camshafts, however, are all incompatible.
So here are some questions I have:
- Whats the difference between the 2001 CL Premium and Type-S if they both use the J32A1?
- Are the J32A1 and the J32A2 heads actually backwards compatible?
- Is there a detailed list of the differences between the J32A1 and the J32A2?
- Would pistons, valves, rocker arms, and camshafts for the J32A2 engine bolt up to the J32A1?
- What gasket set should be used for a rebuild and are OEM kits available?
- What crankshaft, pistons, valves, camshafts, etc. should I use if I do end up replacing them?
I know this is a lot of questions but I知 struggling to find info and I want to determine if this is even viable.
So here are some questions I have:
- Whats the difference between the 2001 CL Premium and Type-S if they both use the J32A1?
- Are the J32A1 and the J32A2 heads actually backwards compatible?
- Is there a detailed list of the differences between the J32A1 and the J32A2?
- Would pistons, valves, rocker arms, and camshafts for the J32A2 engine bolt up to the J32A1?
- What gasket set should be used for a rebuild and are OEM kits available?
- What crankshaft, pistons, valves, camshafts, etc. should I use if I do end up replacing them?
I know this is a lot of questions but I知 struggling to find info and I want to determine if this is even viable.
10-31-2023, 08:45 PM
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
IIRC'ly, I don't think I've ever seen anyone document / modify a J32A1 build because the J32A2 & J35A3 where more desirable for HP gains.
With that said, in short, the J32A1 engine was factory installed in the Base / Premium CL / TL's.
Honda J engine - Wikipedia
The J32A2 engine was factory installed in the Type-S CL / TL & is the more 'sought-after' in terms of performance than the J32A1.
The part numbers are different for both blocks, Base - 11000-P8F-A00 versus Type-S - 11000-PGE-A00
Generally, the J32A2 heads are said to have a higher performing cam; thus, they are factory installed on the higher performing Type-S models versus the Base / Premiums.
When 2G Type-S folks desire more torque & power they can 'build' (J32) an engine, like yourself, or 'swap', the J35A3 (01-02 MDX) into their CL-S or TL-S'.
Some opt to swap the J32A2 heads (in mass) onto the J35 block or just swap out the J32A2 cams into the J35A3 heads for the performance gains.
The Type-S models ECU can handle the 'bump' in displacement, many have done this swap with no issues.
I understand you are specifically looking for info regarding the J32A1; however, it is just not that readily available because, as mentioned above, the J32A2 & J35A3 were more desirable.
The guy below outlines the differences between the J32A2 & J35A3:
IIRC'ly, I don't think I've ever seen anyone document / modify a J32A1 build because the J32A2 & J35A3 where more desirable for HP gains.
With that said, in short, the J32A1 engine was factory installed in the Base / Premium CL / TL's.
Honda J engine - Wikipedia
The J32A2 engine was factory installed in the Type-S CL / TL & is the more 'sought-after' in terms of performance than the J32A1.
The part numbers are different for both blocks, Base - 11000-P8F-A00 versus Type-S - 11000-PGE-A00
Generally, the J32A2 heads are said to have a higher performing cam; thus, they are factory installed on the higher performing Type-S models versus the Base / Premiums.
When 2G Type-S folks desire more torque & power they can 'build' (J32) an engine, like yourself, or 'swap', the J35A3 (01-02 MDX) into their CL-S or TL-S'.
Some opt to swap the J32A2 heads (in mass) onto the J35 block or just swap out the J32A2 cams into the J35A3 heads for the performance gains.
The Type-S models ECU can handle the 'bump' in displacement, many have done this swap with no issues.
I understand you are specifically looking for info regarding the J32A1; however, it is just not that readily available because, as mentioned above, the J32A2 & J35A3 were more desirable.
The guy below outlines the differences between the J32A2 & J35A3:
Both blocks are the same. The only difference in the oil pumps is the pressure valve and spring, the J32A2 parts can be purchased for around $20. The coolant crossover manifold is different but can be made to work. The EGR valves are different and must correspond to the appropriate ECU. Of course the crank, rods and pistons are different. J35A3 has forged crank and rods but they are not comparable to after market forged rods but still better than cast (J32A2 has forged crank only). The heads are the same castings and use the same valve seats even thought the J32 uses a 1mm larger intake vale (with a valve job the smaller valve will flow more, due to less shrouding). Lost motion assemblies were updated for the 03 J32. The cams and springs are different (J32 springs are considerably stronger). The intake of the J35 utilizes are 1" spacer between the upper and lower runners and the upper intake is the same between the two with the exception of the longer trumpets used on the J35 (produces more torque below peak). The TBs are the same with the exception of the MAP sensors and the corresponding MAP sensor must be used with the correct TB (both use the same plug).
If forced induction is in your future use the J35A3. Clean up the casting marks in the intake tract but do not increase the size and enjoy the lower static compression and cams with less over lap. (upgrade the oil pressure spring and valve for good measure)
For some NA fun on the cheap start with J35A3 use J32A2 cams and springs, port from the J35A3 IM to the valves, valve job and mill the head. (.010" is approximately equal to 0.25:1 static compression with J35 rotating assembly). I milled mine to 0.030" with no valve clearance issues and an estimated 10.75:1 static compression (no issues achieving correct mechanical timing with 0.030" milled). I also upgraded the oil pressure spring and valve in the bottom of the oil pump.
Assuming that even if you don't separate the heads and run the long block as is replacing all exterior seals and gaskets only makes good since. Since you have to pull the pan to replace the the gaskets behind the oil pump and pickup, removing one allen plug and dropping the J32A2 oil pressure spring and valve in place is some really cheap insurance.
If forced induction is in your future use the J35A3. Clean up the casting marks in the intake tract but do not increase the size and enjoy the lower static compression and cams with less over lap. (upgrade the oil pressure spring and valve for good measure)
For some NA fun on the cheap start with J35A3 use J32A2 cams and springs, port from the J35A3 IM to the valves, valve job and mill the head. (.010" is approximately equal to 0.25:1 static compression with J35 rotating assembly). I milled mine to 0.030" with no valve clearance issues and an estimated 10.75:1 static compression (no issues achieving correct mechanical timing with 0.030" milled). I also upgraded the oil pressure spring and valve in the bottom of the oil pump.
Assuming that even if you don't separate the heads and run the long block as is replacing all exterior seals and gaskets only makes good since. Since you have to pull the pan to replace the the gaskets behind the oil pump and pickup, removing one allen plug and dropping the J32A2 oil pressure spring and valve in place is some really cheap insurance.
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