03CLS6 Autocross/Track/Street Build Thread
#241
Think it was something like 1/2 inch shorter but I can measure it again. Would use the thinner P2R Spacer and would definitely have hood clearance. The only thing to think about is Strut Bar clearance. The spacer would not fit with CT strut bar and stock IM with P2R Plenums(barely fits without spacer). Think it will fit fine with smaller 3.7 TL IM.
Not sure the spacer is worth it. There is the extra money and also the spacer will just move the weight of the IM, TB, etc. further up and have a higher center of gravity. Then I would want a before and after dyno to see if it is worth it.
#242
Hope these are measurements you wanted.
For the 3.7 IM the bottom of the TB Flange is the same length as where the IM connects to lower runners. It all touches ground at the same time. If you measure from the ground to the bottom of the TB opening it would only be about 1/4 inch.
For the 3.2 IM, the TB Flange hangs much lower then the rest of the IM.
If you hang the flange over the edge of the box then the TB opening is basically at ground lever or slightly higher. Hard to tell.
The difference seems like 1/4 inch or less.
For the 3.7 IM the bottom of the TB Flange is the same length as where the IM connects to lower runners. It all touches ground at the same time. If you measure from the ground to the bottom of the TB opening it would only be about 1/4 inch.
For the 3.2 IM, the TB Flange hangs much lower then the rest of the IM.
If you hang the flange over the edge of the box then the TB opening is basically at ground lever or slightly higher. Hard to tell.
The difference seems like 1/4 inch or less.
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gnuts (01-02-2015)
#243
Ordered Prank Parts IM Thermal Gasket. Gonna use that and runners as reference to open up lower IM ports. Are there any special precautions I should take when grinding/sanding since it is magnesium? Don't want to set myself or garage on fire.
Thinking I'll powdercoat IM wrinkle red or blue.
Thinking I'll powdercoat IM wrinkle red or blue.
#244
Burning Brakes
The Road America Course looks fun. Much better then the tight courses I run full of cones. Maybe I can go to some next year but it is a far drive. Will look into it.
I know about MVP. Some guys I know run with them. I will be going to their autobahn event most likely, maybe more.
Want to run more events next year. Never done a full year yet because of down time working on car and other priorities.
I know about MVP. Some guys I know run with them. I will be going to their autobahn event most likely, maybe more.
Want to run more events next year. Never done a full year yet because of down time working on car and other priorities.
#246
Titanium Weight Comparison
Here are some weights of titanium hardware vs steel and stainless counterparts. Titanium is lighter, stronger, and looks better. Only negative is cost. Keep in mind that the weight savings is less with smaller items and smaller items cost more for the weight you save. I would say it is probably not worth it unless the car competes competitively. I would also just use titanium for parts that require extra strength. Ones that don't require extra strength just go with stainless steel.
Seat Hardware
Steel Hardware. 4 Bolts & 4 Washers.
Titanium Hardware. 4 Bolts & 4 Washers.
Steel Seat Hardware for Both Seats. 8 Bolts & 8 Washers = 160G or .35 lbs.
Titanium Hardware. 8 Bolts & 8 Washers = 82G or .18 lbs.
A savings of 78G or .17 lbs.
3.7 Magnesium IM Hardware
For this you would be better off just going with stainless steel.
24 Stainless Steel Bolts.
24 Titanium Bolts.
A savings of 66G or .15 lbs.
Rear Strut Tower Nuts
Steel.
Titanium.
A savings of 11G or .024 lbs.
Here are some weights of titanium hardware vs steel and stainless counterparts. Titanium is lighter, stronger, and looks better. Only negative is cost. Keep in mind that the weight savings is less with smaller items and smaller items cost more for the weight you save. I would say it is probably not worth it unless the car competes competitively. I would also just use titanium for parts that require extra strength. Ones that don't require extra strength just go with stainless steel.
Seat Hardware
Steel Hardware. 4 Bolts & 4 Washers.
Titanium Hardware. 4 Bolts & 4 Washers.
Steel Seat Hardware for Both Seats. 8 Bolts & 8 Washers = 160G or .35 lbs.
Titanium Hardware. 8 Bolts & 8 Washers = 82G or .18 lbs.
A savings of 78G or .17 lbs.
3.7 Magnesium IM Hardware
For this you would be better off just going with stainless steel.
24 Stainless Steel Bolts.
24 Titanium Bolts.
A savings of 66G or .15 lbs.
Rear Strut Tower Nuts
Steel.
Titanium.
A savings of 11G or .024 lbs.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-03-2015 at 03:07 PM.
#247
2nd Exhaust Hanger Bracket Removal
Thought I'd post a more in depth DIY on removing a bracket that is spot welded on.
Here is what was used:
Gloves
Safety Goggles
Ventilator
Tape
Screwdriver
Work Light
JB Weld
Sandpaper
Primer
Rubberized Undercoating
Dremel with Flex Shaft Attachment
Metal Cut-Off Wheel & Sanding Drum
Taped off the Exhaust Hanger.
Cut off Exhaust Hanger Rod to have more room.
Grind down the 4 spot welds. It is better to use a worn down metal cut-off wheel so there is more clearance to get in tight areas.
Once you get down close to the bottom of the weld a line will form around it. I circled it in red in the picture below. This tells you when to stop grinding.
Once it is ground down enough use a screwdriver to pry it off.
Exhaust Hanger removed. Weighs 130G or .29 lbs.
Taped it up again for sanding. Used Dremel with sanding drum and sandpaper.
Sanded down.
Filled in a few small grooves left from grinding with JB Weld just to smooth it out. Not necessary.
Masked and sprayed primer.
Rubberized Undercoating applied.
Thought I'd post a more in depth DIY on removing a bracket that is spot welded on.
Here is what was used:
Gloves
Safety Goggles
Ventilator
Tape
Screwdriver
Work Light
JB Weld
Sandpaper
Primer
Rubberized Undercoating
Dremel with Flex Shaft Attachment
Metal Cut-Off Wheel & Sanding Drum
Taped off the Exhaust Hanger.
Cut off Exhaust Hanger Rod to have more room.
Grind down the 4 spot welds. It is better to use a worn down metal cut-off wheel so there is more clearance to get in tight areas.
Once you get down close to the bottom of the weld a line will form around it. I circled it in red in the picture below. This tells you when to stop grinding.
Once it is ground down enough use a screwdriver to pry it off.
Exhaust Hanger removed. Weighs 130G or .29 lbs.
Taped it up again for sanding. Used Dremel with sanding drum and sandpaper.
Sanded down.
Filled in a few small grooves left from grinding with JB Weld just to smooth it out. Not necessary.
Masked and sprayed primer.
Rubberized Undercoating applied.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-04-2015 at 07:06 PM.
#248
Senior Moderator
here is a little tip for you. There is a spot weld drill bit. It can be found at places like Napa, harbor freight and other shops. It makes quick work of spot welds and doesnt drill thru the back sideb easily like normal drill bits. Takes seconds to drill thru.
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brian6speed (01-06-2015)
#249
I already know about those drill bits, the problem would be that there was no space to use my drill. The dremel extension barely had room.
Never used those drill bits before. Will try them out on the rear seat brackets. Can buy some from local Harbor Freight.
I might not use the best or fastest techniques with my limited tools, but I find a way to get job done with what I have.
#250
In case any one else wants to get spot weld drill bits, don't waste your time calling or driving to local stores, they do not carry them. Order online instead. I called Napa, Harbor Freight, and Home Depot. None carry them.
Prank Parts IM Gasket should arrive today. Then I can get to work opening up the lower IM ports. Then it is off to the powdercoater.
Prank Parts IM Gasket should arrive today. Then I can get to work opening up the lower IM ports. Then it is off to the powdercoater.
#251
3.7 TL IM Porting.
Received Prank Parts Thermal IM Gasket, so time for porting to begin.
Supplies.
Nice thing about buying a used IM, besides price, is that there are gasket marks left that you can use as guides to porting. Pic below shows this.
Prank Parts Thermal Gasket placed on ports. Fitment isn't perfect, but it should work.
The one part I am concerned about is the EGR Port. The Gasket only covers around 1 MM past the hole. Could this cause a leak issue? Wonder if I would be better off using P2R 3.7 TL Gasket or P2R CL Gasket?
Took a pic with gasket lifted up to show how close fitment is.
Here is the size of the previous OEM TL Gasket from marks.
Prank Parts Gasket Opening Size.
TB Opening Slightly Ported and Smoothed Out.
One port opened up. Could use a little more porting/sanding.
What grit sandpaper should I finish with? 180, 400, 600?
Received Prank Parts Thermal IM Gasket, so time for porting to begin.
Supplies.
Nice thing about buying a used IM, besides price, is that there are gasket marks left that you can use as guides to porting. Pic below shows this.
Prank Parts Thermal Gasket placed on ports. Fitment isn't perfect, but it should work.
The one part I am concerned about is the EGR Port. The Gasket only covers around 1 MM past the hole. Could this cause a leak issue? Wonder if I would be better off using P2R 3.7 TL Gasket or P2R CL Gasket?
Took a pic with gasket lifted up to show how close fitment is.
Here is the size of the previous OEM TL Gasket from marks.
Prank Parts Gasket Opening Size.
TB Opening Slightly Ported and Smoothed Out.
One port opened up. Could use a little more porting/sanding.
What grit sandpaper should I finish with? 180, 400, 600?
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brian6speed (01-09-2015)
#253
I appreciate the refund offer without even asking for one. That is a first for me, and amazing customer service. Will let you know. Will be buying your TB Adapter soon.
I am not sure if you can tell clearly in the pics, but the gasket does cover the entire opening and overlaps about 1-2 MM. That dark gasket spot might be deceiving. Should I still worry about leaking?
I don't blame you or the gasket. I am sure it fits CL IM perfect. The P2R CL gasket would be same way.
Thinking P2R 09+ TL Gasket might be better.
Noone ever mentions which gasket they used.
I am not sure if you can tell clearly in the pics, but the gasket does cover the entire opening and overlaps about 1-2 MM. That dark gasket spot might be deceiving. Should I still worry about leaking?
I don't blame you or the gasket. I am sure it fits CL IM perfect. The P2R CL gasket would be same way.
Thinking P2R 09+ TL Gasket might be better.
Noone ever mentions which gasket they used.
#254
Emailed P2R about which gasket to use. They said either one should work and not leak, but they typically use 09 TL Gasket on their installs.
Guess I will order that gasket and decide which to use.
Still need to decide if I want to run P2R IM Spacer or hook up IMRC. I think the IMRC might be good for pulling out of tight corners in autocross where the revs drop in 2nd gear, but shifting to 1st isn't a better option.
Guess I will order that gasket and decide which to use.
Still need to decide if I want to run P2R IM Spacer or hook up IMRC. I think the IMRC might be good for pulling out of tight corners in autocross where the revs drop in 2nd gear, but shifting to 1st isn't a better option.
#255
P2R convinced me to try out their IM Spacer. Purchased it along with 2 TL Thermal Gaskets. Thinking I will get TL Top Plate with IMRC.
This thread shows a dyno with IM Spacer on P2R's 3.5 Accord. They show a gain on 2 whp and more torque down low.
::P2R / Throwdown Release 03-12 Accord V6 Intake Manifold Spacer!!! - Drive Accord Honda Forums
DynoGraph_zps2a49327d.jpg Photo by Power2r | Photobucket
This IM swap is going to end up costing a nice chunk of change.
Red = Still need to buy
3.7 TL IM $180
76 MM Blox TB $227
TB Adapter & Gaskets $140
TL IM Cover $192
Titanium Bolts $80
P2R IM Spacer & 2 TL Gaskets $154
P2R B Series TB on J32a2 Kit $76
Powdercoating $100
Dyno $90
Would like to get a dyno just showing IM Spacer gains but don't think that will happen.
Could end up getting back around $700 if I sell my current setup.
This thread shows a dyno with IM Spacer on P2R's 3.5 Accord. They show a gain on 2 whp and more torque down low.
::P2R / Throwdown Release 03-12 Accord V6 Intake Manifold Spacer!!! - Drive Accord Honda Forums
DynoGraph_zps2a49327d.jpg Photo by Power2r | Photobucket
This IM swap is going to end up costing a nice chunk of change.
Red = Still need to buy
3.7 TL IM $180
76 MM Blox TB $227
TB Adapter & Gaskets $140
TL IM Cover $192
Titanium Bolts $80
P2R IM Spacer & 2 TL Gaskets $154
P2R B Series TB on J32a2 Kit $76
Powdercoating $100
Dyno $90
Would like to get a dyno just showing IM Spacer gains but don't think that will happen.
Could end up getting back around $700 if I sell my current setup.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-07-2015 at 02:30 PM.
#258
Stoptech Trophy Sport BBK
BBK from XLR8 arrived. Great customer service and price, like always.
Must say these pieces are so beautiful. Best looking BBK I've ever seen. The Calipers are pretty massive and bigger than I expected for some reason. Fitment will be really close. Won't know till I try.
Kit Contents plus Titanium Shims.
The Titanium Shims won't fit until the pads wear down some. They will help with heat and protect the dust boots.
Trophy Sport Caliper.
These are anodized instead of painted like the standard ST40. Color should not fade from heat but have to be careful what cleaner you use. They machined out more material to make them 20% lighter than ST40 Calipers. They also have extra bolts on the inside.
Stoptech 328x28 AeroRotors.
These are such quality and great design. There is a lot of vanes and cooling. Tried capturing it in the pics. The hats on these are also anodized instead of painted.
Weights.
These are actually very light for their size. Will compare to other parts when removed.
BBK from XLR8 arrived. Great customer service and price, like always.
Must say these pieces are so beautiful. Best looking BBK I've ever seen. The Calipers are pretty massive and bigger than I expected for some reason. Fitment will be really close. Won't know till I try.
Kit Contents plus Titanium Shims.
The Titanium Shims won't fit until the pads wear down some. They will help with heat and protect the dust boots.
Trophy Sport Caliper.
These are anodized instead of painted like the standard ST40. Color should not fade from heat but have to be careful what cleaner you use. They machined out more material to make them 20% lighter than ST40 Calipers. They also have extra bolts on the inside.
Stoptech 328x28 AeroRotors.
These are such quality and great design. There is a lot of vanes and cooling. Tried capturing it in the pics. The hats on these are also anodized instead of painted.
Weights.
These are actually very light for their size. Will compare to other parts when removed.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-09-2015 at 08:38 PM.
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zeta (01-10-2015)
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brian6speed (01-10-2015)
#260
Any recommendations on pads? Thinking Carbotech XP8 or XP10. Wonder how noisy they would be on the street. Tried emailing Carbotech about what pads to run but they never replied.
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brian6speed (01-12-2015)
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brian6speed (01-12-2015)
#264
Hmmm. After emailing P2R about IM setups, I am not sure if 3.7 Magnesium IM is the way to go.
Noticed P2R is still running the 3.2 IM Ported with Plenums and MDX Horns. Asked why and was told "3.2 IM allows us to port it to exact size ports we want. The Magnesium IM does not really allow for that". They are pushing 308whp and like 280 wtq so that tells me 3.2 IM is not restrictive besides TB neck area, especially for my setup.
They welded more material around the neck to be able to port 3.2 TB Opening to 76 MM and run a 76 MM TB.
There is a claim on forums that 3.7 IM with 76 MM TB makes 3 HP more than the 3.2 IM ported with Plenums and Bored OEM TB which is basically 70 MM TB. Have no idea how that would compare to P2R's current setup.
I was able to open up 3.7 Magnesium IM some, but not a full job.
Wonder if it would help if I Port 3.2 IM TB Opening to 72 MM. Then open up the P2R TB Spacer to 72 MM on IM side and taper to 74 or 76 MM on TB side. Then run a 74 or 76 MM TB.
Could just weld and port 3.2 IM like P2R to run 76 MM TB.
Then there is the 10 lbs less weight from Magnesium IM to consider.
Would love to get dynos to compare them all but rather unlikely.
For my car I might not need as much porting as P2R with their freer flowing exhaust and other mods, so maybe 3.7 IM is enough. Hard to say.
Noticed P2R is still running the 3.2 IM Ported with Plenums and MDX Horns. Asked why and was told "3.2 IM allows us to port it to exact size ports we want. The Magnesium IM does not really allow for that". They are pushing 308whp and like 280 wtq so that tells me 3.2 IM is not restrictive besides TB neck area, especially for my setup.
They welded more material around the neck to be able to port 3.2 TB Opening to 76 MM and run a 76 MM TB.
There is a claim on forums that 3.7 IM with 76 MM TB makes 3 HP more than the 3.2 IM ported with Plenums and Bored OEM TB which is basically 70 MM TB. Have no idea how that would compare to P2R's current setup.
I was able to open up 3.7 Magnesium IM some, but not a full job.
Wonder if it would help if I Port 3.2 IM TB Opening to 72 MM. Then open up the P2R TB Spacer to 72 MM on IM side and taper to 74 or 76 MM on TB side. Then run a 74 or 76 MM TB.
Could just weld and port 3.2 IM like P2R to run 76 MM TB.
Then there is the 10 lbs less weight from Magnesium IM to consider.
Would love to get dynos to compare them all but rather unlikely.
For my car I might not need as much porting as P2R with their freer flowing exhaust and other mods, so maybe 3.7 IM is enough. Hard to say.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-13-2015 at 11:50 AM.
#265
Was hoping someone would chime in. P2R didn't want to give me any advice on my setup and what to run(I can understand why). They just told me what they run. I appreciate them taking time to reply and their insight.
Seems to me 3.2 IM with neck welded and bigger TB is the way to go for max power gains.
Btw when the 3.7 IM posted 3 hp over 3.2 IM(ported with plenums, mdx horns, and oem bored tb), that was just with a basic port job. P2R has done more extreme porting on theirs and said it has been ported multiple times.
The 3.7 IM would make a few hp more than my setup (76 MM TB is what makes power, not IM). Only a 3 hp gain tells me the actual IM probably flows worse after the neck area. Then there is the 10 lbs of less weight. I would prefer 2-3 hp or torque over the 10 lb loss.
Back to being indecisive.
Seems to me 3.2 IM with neck welded and bigger TB is the way to go for max power gains.
Btw when the 3.7 IM posted 3 hp over 3.2 IM(ported with plenums, mdx horns, and oem bored tb), that was just with a basic port job. P2R has done more extreme porting on theirs and said it has been ported multiple times.
The 3.7 IM would make a few hp more than my setup (76 MM TB is what makes power, not IM). Only a 3 hp gain tells me the actual IM probably flows worse after the neck area. Then there is the 10 lbs of less weight. I would prefer 2-3 hp or torque over the 10 lb loss.
Back to being indecisive.
#266
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
i think stick with the 3.7 plan. You already have everything and it'll be close in power and less weight. If you do go with the oem then you would need an aggressive port on the manifold and more material to the neck to fit the bigger TB....too much work for not enough gain I think.
#267
i think stick with the 3.7 plan. You already have everything and it'll be close in power and less weight. If you do go with the oem then you would need an aggressive port on the manifold and more material to the neck to fit the bigger TB....too much work for not enough gain I think.
Could port the 3.2 IM more myself. Already has a good port since came off P2R car that was making great numbers. Taking it off and bringing it to someone to weld more material on neck would be annoying part. Then I would want to powdercoat it or send it off to Swaintech to ceramic coat it.
Could just install the 3.7 IM and see what gains it makes. Then get to work on the 3.2 IM after it is removed. Then maybe re-install it with bigger TB and dyno again. Otherwise it is all just guessing.
Think if I just port my 3.2 IM neck to 72 MM and run a 72 MM TB, or port 3.2 IM to 72 MM then the TB Spacer from 72 to 74 MM and run 74 MM TB that will post just as good or better numbers than 3.7 IM and 76 MM TB.
Can't use the P2R IM Spacer with 3.2 IM due to strut bar clearance but should be fine with 3.7 IM.
Either way I go is a lot of work and money for not much gain. Don't want to sell my current setup now, so won't get any money back. Would have been better off spending money on wheels, tires, or aero mods.
Just wanted to see what numbers it could make and get some definitive info for forums. You would think there would be more after 12 years.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-14-2015 at 02:18 PM.
#269
In the end it would weigh around 7-8 lbs less probably.
Heat isn't as much of a concern since my IM is ceramic coated already and has thermal gaskets. I have driven for 2 hours with aggressive driving in summer. Stop and open the hood. I can leave my hand on the IM Top Plate as long as I want. It never gets hot enough to make me pull my hand away.
The issue would be that you can't reach inside the 3.7 IM to really port it properly. Spending a grand to gain 3 hp and lose 7-8 lbs seems rather disappointing.
It is a nice mod tho, especially for ppl without ported IM, bored TB, Plenums or Plenum Spacers, etc. already. Just doesn't have as much potential as modding the 3.2 Aluminum IM. Exhaust Manifolds might be my limiting factor anyway, in which case the 3.7 might be better choice solely from weight alone.
From a looks perspective I still prefer 3.2 IM with the Plenums.
Heat isn't as much of a concern since my IM is ceramic coated already and has thermal gaskets. I have driven for 2 hours with aggressive driving in summer. Stop and open the hood. I can leave my hand on the IM Top Plate as long as I want. It never gets hot enough to make me pull my hand away.
The issue would be that you can't reach inside the 3.7 IM to really port it properly. Spending a grand to gain 3 hp and lose 7-8 lbs seems rather disappointing.
It is a nice mod tho, especially for ppl without ported IM, bored TB, Plenums or Plenum Spacers, etc. already. Just doesn't have as much potential as modding the 3.2 Aluminum IM. Exhaust Manifolds might be my limiting factor anyway, in which case the 3.7 might be better choice solely from weight alone.
From a looks perspective I still prefer 3.2 IM with the Plenums.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-14-2015 at 05:27 PM.
#270
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Surely, you could find a competent metal shop locally that would be able to do this. It would be just a matter of understanding what is involved in the process. Maybe P2r could fill in the gaps so that you could convey what you need if said metal shop is located to meet your need?
Last edited by zeta; 01-14-2015 at 05:36 PM.
#271
Here is a price comparison from my experience:
3.2 IM Setup
Bored TB $150
Ported IM $200 cheaper if do it yourself
P2R Plenums $400 if you can find them, cheaper if you go spacer route.
MDX Horns $40
P2R TB Gasket $18
Total $868
3.7 IM Setup
3.7 IM $180
76 MM Blox TB $227
TB Adapter & Gaskets $140
TL IM Cover $192 cheaper if you get Accord Top Plate and don't run IMRC.
P2R B Series TB on J32a2 Kit $76
Total $815
3.2 IM Setup
Bored TB $150
Ported IM $200 cheaper if do it yourself
P2R Plenums $400 if you can find them, cheaper if you go spacer route.
MDX Horns $40
P2R TB Gasket $18
Total $868
3.7 IM Setup
3.7 IM $180
76 MM Blox TB $227
TB Adapter & Gaskets $140
TL IM Cover $192 cheaper if you get Accord Top Plate and don't run IMRC.
P2R B Series TB on J32a2 Kit $76
Total $815
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-14-2015 at 05:46 PM.
#272
What exactly would be involved in adding more material on the neck? I thought I observed an extra IM in one of your 'for sale' threads?
Surely, you could find a competent metal shop locally that would be able to do this. It would be just a matter of understanding what is involved in the process. Maybe P2r could fill in the gaps so that you could convey what you need if said metal shop is located to meet your need?
Surely, you could find a competent metal shop locally that would be able to do this. It would be just a matter of understanding what is involved in the process. Maybe P2r could fill in the gaps so that you could convey what you need if said metal shop is located to meet your need?
I do have my original IM still. Dunno if I want to start porting all over again when one on car already has good port job by P2R.
Reese is running 74 MM TB on 3.2 IM without welding extra material to neck. Not sure of gains though.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-14-2015 at 05:51 PM.
#273
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Maybe those contacts over at King you made could give you some recommendations, as well. Hell, just chew their ear for giggles, you never know.
yeah, I would not want to have to recreate all that effort. See above.
Last edited by zeta; 01-14-2015 at 06:02 PM.
#274
Understood. Therefore, it would be just a matter of finding a good aluminum welder that can follow your direction. You could bring along your original IM, if you found a shop(s), and use that as an example to see if they can work the magic that you need, then if you are feeling lucky, remove your current IM and go all in.
Maybe those contacts over at King you made could give you some recommendations, as well. Hell, just chew their ear for giggles, you never know.
yeah, I would not want to have to recreate all that effort. See above.
Maybe those contacts over at King you made could give you some recommendations, as well. Hell, just chew their ear for giggles, you never know.
yeah, I would not want to have to recreate all that effort. See above.
For the cost might as well go all out and get a sexy custom IM like Gerzand.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-14-2015 at 06:06 PM.
#275
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
There you go then. It would be just a matter of getting the cost to around the range that you mentioned above, if possible. Float it by them, after all the excellent work they did for your last year, they may be able to work it to your liking.
#277
Compared the OEM Down Pipe to the Comptech Down Pipe just for sh*ts and giggles.
Weights
OEM
Comptech
Dimensions
OEM
OEM Pipe Outside Diameter after bulge. One Pipe Lower Section.
OEM Pipe Outside Diameter. Two Pipe Upper Section.
OEM Pipe Port Opening Diameter. Section that bolts to cat.
OEM Pipe Port Opening Diameter. Section that bolts to Header Manifolds.
Here you can see the OEM Pipe gets even smaller inside.
Comptech
Comptech Pipe Outside Diameter. One Pipe Lower Section.
Comptech Pipe Outside Diameter. Two Pipe Upper Section.
Comptech Pipe Port Opening Diameter. Section that bolts to cat. This is after I ground down that lip that holds crush gasket.
Comptech Pipe Port Opening Diameter. Section that bolts to Header Manifolds.
Weights
OEM
Comptech
Dimensions
OEM
OEM Pipe Outside Diameter after bulge. One Pipe Lower Section.
OEM Pipe Outside Diameter. Two Pipe Upper Section.
OEM Pipe Port Opening Diameter. Section that bolts to cat.
OEM Pipe Port Opening Diameter. Section that bolts to Header Manifolds.
Here you can see the OEM Pipe gets even smaller inside.
Comptech
Comptech Pipe Outside Diameter. One Pipe Lower Section.
Comptech Pipe Outside Diameter. Two Pipe Upper Section.
Comptech Pipe Port Opening Diameter. Section that bolts to cat. This is after I ground down that lip that holds crush gasket.
Comptech Pipe Port Opening Diameter. Section that bolts to Header Manifolds.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-17-2015 at 10:19 AM.
#278
3.7 TL IM Porting Continued...
Pretty close to being finished. Spent some hours porting and sanding.
The lower port openings originally were 42-43 MM. Opened them all up to 44.5 MM. Didn't want to go overly aggressive on port opening in case gasket doesn't line up perfect. Did not want to create a lip that would cause turbulence.
Ended up using a pencil and this sand paper with rubberized backing to reach further than my fingers could.
Want to see if I can find something curved or flexible to reach further on the other side( top curved section) of runner.
Openings ported to 44.5 MM and smoothed by hand with 220 grit sandpaper.
Opened TB Neck Area to just under 76 MM. Sanded/smoothed the back of the neck area that transitions to manifold. It was rather rough.
Thinking of cutting off these posts that look ugly and aren't needed. Started thinking I could use them to mount my catch can so not sure yet.
Pretty close to being finished. Spent some hours porting and sanding.
The lower port openings originally were 42-43 MM. Opened them all up to 44.5 MM. Didn't want to go overly aggressive on port opening in case gasket doesn't line up perfect. Did not want to create a lip that would cause turbulence.
Ended up using a pencil and this sand paper with rubberized backing to reach further than my fingers could.
Want to see if I can find something curved or flexible to reach further on the other side( top curved section) of runner.
Openings ported to 44.5 MM and smoothed by hand with 220 grit sandpaper.
Opened TB Neck Area to just under 76 MM. Sanded/smoothed the back of the neck area that transitions to manifold. It was rather rough.
Thinking of cutting off these posts that look ugly and aren't needed. Started thinking I could use them to mount my catch can so not sure yet.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-17-2015 at 11:22 AM.
#280
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Foerster-Ballenger Curved Sponge Forceps (MDS1617125)- HEALTH PRODUCTS EXPRESS
The clamping functionality of the forceps would enable you to grab, securely, the soft rubberized backing side of the sand paper, and the curved length of the instrument would facilitate getting to the deeper areas a little better. It would only be a matter of figuring out what overall length of instrument you would need the forceps to be. The page states that they offer various sizes. Another would be a 'right angle' clamp, as well,