Never buy anything from a Lamborghini owner, they are so egotistical and stupid. This guy is trying to tell me that a Sparco universal steering wheel won't fit my car because my car is not an exotic supercar. Just shows that more money you have, dumber you are.

Should post his messages on here for a good laugh.

If a ebay seller has item listed as No return is there anything else I can do besides to open a return request on Ebay claiming defective product? Seller said he will not accept a return no matter what.

 

I would go to ebay. if you paid using paypal appeal there and if you used your credit card appeal with your credit card company too. paypal or your cc can probably cancel the payment.

 

defective product, does not match description. he would still have to respond to it in resolution, and open one up with paypal/cc

 

eBay is VERY buyer friendly. To the point where I've been boldly taken advantage of as a seller. Don't give up. eBay will help.

 

Call the credit card company and ask for a chargeback. You’ll keep the steering wheel and get your money back. I was recently scammed in this manner and the buyer’s CC played a negative $1,000 balance on my Paypal Account and no one cares if I get my item back. In your case its a legitimate reason.

 

sounds like a defective steering wheel, but how could it have fit on his hub?..if it ever did. Id measure one hole to the next to verify a machining error.

honestly if it were me and it was a bad ass steering wheel, id keep it, redrill the hole, fill in the gap, and paint the correction.

 

Thanks for replies. After opening an ebay return ticket with pictures and description, the seller changed his tune and is accepting a return.

I also contacted Sparco about my wheel being defective. They emailed me next day saying a defective bolt pattern is very unlikely and they have never had a defective steering wheel ever. Every company uses that last BS line. Funny thing is they asked for pictures, so I sent them another email describing it with pictures. They never replied back after that. So now I know to avoid buying from Sparco and stick to Momo.

 

I don't really want to screw seller over, just return item.

Not sure if it fit his hub or not. Maybe that is reason he is selling a steering wheel with only 1000 miles or less on it for cheap? After looking at the ebay auction again he typed in fine print at the very bottom "modifying might be necessary" which seems odd considering steering wheel is universal and should never need to be modified.

Since the whole wheel is Carbon Fiber wouldn't it technically be an issue with the mould and not machining issue?

Could try and open up the holes some, but the problem is the recessed circle around the hole for the bolt head to seat. If the bolt isn't in the middle it will not seat correctly and look horrible. Could grind some of the Carbon Fiber away to get it to seat, but then you have an awful looking misshaped hole around bolt.

Here you can see the bottom hole doesn't line up properly. No matter how you turn the hub or the quick release it is the bottom of wheel that is issue. Tried mounting to quick release and hub, same issue for both. Could drill it open, but bolt still wouldn't seat well and would be hard to return or re-sell after grinding that much material away.



Here is the other bolt hole that is an issue. All the other holes lined up perfect, it was just 2 that were off. This one isn't as bad as the bottom hole. You can see in pics below this is as far as bolt would seat and how recessed circle is off.





Another small gripe is that wheel was listed as "like new" condition with nothing wrong with it. Here is a pic of what seems to be a cigarette burn or a defect in the suede application. I am picky, I know.




Just glad I can return it, stupid purchase. Starting to wonder if aero is right choice. Maybe should save up for AEM EMS2 instead of rear wing. Power is a sure thing, aero is a guessing game.

 

you already have the harness and conversion parts. AEM would def. open it up.

 

So with my harness and conversion parts, do I buy aem 30-6050 or 30-6051? Anything else needed? Hopefully King Motorsports is willing to work with me, need to discuss more with them first. Would AD cam gears free up more power and would I get auto or manual set?

 

30-6051. Auto gears because you are converting it to auto motor. Trigger is already setup for it.

 

K thanks, that's what I was thinking. Know it was a stupid question, but worth asking just to make sure.

Read somewhere someone passed emissions with EMS2. Hope that is true so I don't have to swap back and forth.

If someone has a used EMS2 or knows someone selling one for cheap let me know. Best price I see is 1200 new from Amazon.

 

I would personally try SearchTempest.

 

You don't need to convert your motor to the auto sensors to run AEM. All you need to do is open the box and switch the jumper switches from "mag" to "hall" and get a jumper harness made for your factory 6 speed harness through Boomslang, King (uses dezod), etc.

 

true, but he has the auto parts already along with a milspec tucked engine harness. and use a start up cal or another cal if he has one. (i have a few myself from others).

 

as for the v2 ecu, i seen some for around 1k. some bnib and some used for a little bit and placed back. text me if you still have my number. ill try and find them again since you dont do FB.

 

Depending on emission laws in Brian's state, he would have to swap back to the manual sensors/harness each time it's required. Real pain.. but it's pick your poison with these cars I suppose

 

Ouu emission. No good.

 

This is why I'm still on stock ecu. It will really come down to whether shop is willing to deal with it or not. If they don't want to, not sure what else to do.

Gets frustrating when you have no one to help besides reading Internet, a shop 2 hours away, or doing it by myself without any assistance.

Still not sure about emissions and if swapping ecu's and sensors will be necessary(in IL they plug in to port, don't use sniffer). Still not sure if all functions on Gauge cluster will work. Will jumper harness be needed? Should I use harness I have or buy dezod?

Have probably read through every thread about this on Internet and still feel all my questions are left unanswered. I need to explain exactly what needs to be done to shop, and right now I can't do that.

Well at least when I am at events I will still be able to say my car isn't tuned and on stock ecu. People are always surprised by that answer.

Screw this car crap, bought an Xbox one elite console to play with instead of car parts.

 

What does ouu emission mean?

At this point cutting out another 100 pounds of metal seems easier.

 

When they plug it in, the obd2 system wont be read meaning you wont pass. Unless AEM changed something in the last few years then it wouldnt be worth the hassle.

Best bet would be jumper harness + aem 30-6051 with jumpers switched to run the manual sensors. That way you can just swap ecu and drive til it ready to be tested or Dezod ecu setup. Its essential the same thing, but its already setup for the manual sensors but is a bit more but roughly the same if you factor in a jumper harness from boomslang.

 

That's what I was saying. But he's between a rock and hard place right now since he already bought the adapter harness for the auto setup.

 

Could I use harness I have to run the 30-6051 with manual sensors, or will it only work with auto? Would I need to send harness back for revisions, and what needs to be changed? Will all functions work on Gauge cluster, etc?

If I run my harness and convert to auto, would I just need to swap in a type s auto ecu to pass emissions? Will another harness or other parts be needed?

Should I just buy Dezod kit and hang my stupid harness on the wall and never use it? Already lost thousands from my purchases from 1foxbody, what is another 500 down drain.

I am almost convinced to just say fuck it and stop modding my car. Think of all the extra money I'd have. Would actually be able to go out on weekends.

 

The harness will not work with manual sensors because some of the plugs are different between the sensors. For it to work with manual sensors he would need to add a patch harness for those sensors to be used with manual ecu and then you would still need a jumper harness for the aem.

You can run auto sensor with the harness and ecu, but it would throw codes for auto sensors, unless you look into a way to have those cel not show up.

Best bet would be getting the Dezod kit and hang it up. Another option for the harness is trade with me. lol. i had manual setup that i sent back to add auto sensors and ecu plug changed for aem. He should be able to convert it back to full oem 6mt to run your manual sensor and stock ecu.

 

The harness you have will only work with auto sensors AND auto harness. So not only would you have to change the sensors on the engine side, but also the harness..making it a huge PITA to convert back to manual for emissions. I'm sure you would throw a mil light for a manual trans with the auto ecu as the ecu would be be missing communication with the auto trans. Maybe not though, not exactly sure.

The dezod kit is close to 2k and he will only sell the aem and harness as a package deal. It's also not the 30-6051 model that's listed for our application. He's using a different model that he doesn't disclose..it might be the v2 box for the s2000. Again not sure. The other slightly cheaper option would be to keep your motor/harness stock manual, buy AEM separately, move the jumpers inside to the manual hall sensors, and get a harness made by somewhere like rywire or boomslang. That should put you closer to $1500.

Personally since you mostly autox your car, I don't see the price/dollar benefit of aem. You're paying all that money for maybe 15-20whp. If your car was forced induction then yes, no brainer, AEM all day. It sounds like you could benefit from maybe a VAFC which boomslang or rywire also make a harness. You'd probably pick up a decent amount of power just by leaning the car out a bit. Again..worth it? Your call.

If I were you, I would be looking into the 3.842 final drive swap from the 4g sh-awd TL. This will keep your car better in the power band and just about completely elimate dead spots at certain speeds/between gears. Probably looking at $1000-$1500 for that as well as theres some modifying/drilling that needs to be done to the gear. RP did it, but bought from TB motorworx which, since they need to turn a profit, is more expensive

Could also swap in a j35 for cheaper than all these options LOL. Just rambling

 

Wait so your harness is setup to plug to aem EMS, stock ecu, or both? Would jumper harness still be needed. Would be willing to trade, PM me details.

If you don't need to swap sensors then why are you doing it?

Seems like my 2 options are buy and run dezod kit or use my harness and convert to auto. Would need to figure out a way to make my car emission exempt. Maybe class it as classic car or racecar since I drive under 5k miles per year.

 

It was posted in other thread that dezod kit uses 30-6050 ems2 instead of 30-6051.

I disagree with you completely on aem not being worth it. I drive my car on street and track, not just autocross. P2R already showed that peak gains aren't huge, but power under the curve went up roughly 40 hp. Not sure why it matters if forced induction or not. Engine will also run smoother tuned.

Final drive would make me slower at autocross and force me to have to shift to 3rd gear. Shifting will slow me down. Also not something I would do until clutch needs to be replaced again.

My engine is healthy, so not gonna swap in a j35a3. Personally I like having 3.2 engine that came with car.

Probably won't do any tuning in 2016.

 

My harness was orginally a tucked 6mt harness for my jswapped civic. I converted to auto sensor and aem and had tuck tech do the necessary mods to the harness again to run it. It still has the manual sensor plugs on it but auto/aem ecu plugs. He would need to delete the auto sensor plugs and repin it back to oem manual

 

So if you use my harness you wouldn't need to change anything? My harness is setup for stock injectors btw. Would my harness be considered a tucked harness? Anything else different between 2 harnesses that you know of? What are you doing about emissions?

Thanks for answering my questions.

 

Happy holidays. My present will be working on the CL today. Gonna try and tackle the side skirts.

 

Side skirts should work. Need to modify them, make custom brackets and figure out where on chassis to bolt to. The hard part, like always, will be figuring out how to do it by myself. It really is a 2-3 man job. Just need to wait for rain to stop so I can cut metal outside.

 

Think I'll just send my harness back to Tucktech to modify it to manual connectors. Will be easier and faster for me that way.

 

Brian: It sounds like you are starting to realize, firsthand, the law of diminishing returns. Best of luck. I know you will figure it out.

 

I figured that out 10 years ago. Never expected to get any of money back I spent, so fine with that. Just getting frustrated trying to do bigger jobs by myself. Think I am at the limit basically of what can be done by 1 person.

Considering how my car drives, and cars I can beat think money was well spent. I don't regret a thing.

Take side skirts for example. I probably spent 5 hours today just trying to hold one side up in position and use tape, boxes, etc to keep it in place. If I had civic they were made for, whole job would take 2 hours tops. Since they weren't made for my car and I am doing it alone, we are talking probably 40 hours of work. That is were frustration sets in.

 

You probably could have made your own set with all that time lol.

The only thing i that would need to be done with be to change the shock tower pinout/plugs

 

Problem is I don't have ability to bend over 6 feet long pieces of 1/16" thick aluminum. My bender can't even bend 6" long piece, otherwise would make myself. That is why my rear diffuser is all angled aluminum. It works, but adds a lot of extra weight.

 

Damn was trying to set my photobucket albums to private, but accidentally scrambled all the pictures. Would be too much work to fix it and post another thread.

 

Can't reestablish links without moderator privileges, so seems this thread is dead. Oh well can use all time spent posting on other things.

 

One of the most annoying features of this site. I have literally no clue what this helps to prevent. I'm a moderator on CB7Tuner and I can review the previous versions of any post if anything harassing or inappropriate were to come up. Otherwise, as long as the post is yours, feel free to make edits 10 years later. Most of them are like that.

 

Yea it sucks. Mods you can close this thread unless you want to give me moderator privileges to fix it.

Think I am done posting my builds online. I see no benefit in doing so and won't be missed.

Will still occasionally post videos on my youtube channel.