teh CL

iTrader: (1)

J35A3 & alot of hacks...

gurudude

Already had it all apart, new timing belt installed and yes I'm doing water pump too now that I'm gonna change all that stuff out. Won't be till the 4th till I start popping the motor back out

gurudude

6 speed bolted up and water passage being swapped

Tube had extra port on auto and passage was different as well

Here's the J32A after getting proper sensors and timing pulley, looked slightly different

6 speed sensor and crankshaft gear installed, absolutely different and no way to mount belt guard because of missing mount hole... Oh well.

Old water passage and it almost to the point of initial crank up. Fuel connection to engine was a little different, automatic one may have worked?

Just needs the clips and some plastic reinstalled
Thought I'd also add: Crankshaft pulley, P/S, ALT pulleys aren't original and a light weight from proimporttuners.com was installed

gurudude

I meant to reply to this post in thanks of the help, zeta!
Worked well, no codes at all, and literally cranked right up after the second try in 2 seconds.
I've posted pics and elaborated more about it down below replying to the wrong post! Guess what? 1 item wasn't adaptable, but I think it'll be fine? See below.

gurudude

Yes all that was different. Water passage had to be swapped as well. Other had too many hoses and different connections for sensors.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
When dealing with an 'automatic trans' engine, either a JDM J32A / J32A2 from 2G cl /tl or J35A3 from 01-02 MDX, it appears the only way to get around not having that upper 'bolt boss' on the oil pump assembly for the TB stopper plate, is to take the oil pump assembly from the 6-speed motor or do without.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

I've never had an issue with that bracket & only having the one bolt to secure it. It's not going anywhere.

Charlie Mariner

ok so I finished it finally sorry about the long wait anyhow was working out of town and couldn't work on it.
just need to make everyone aware on the cls the ckp A sensor is the one on the transmission the B sensor is the one on the pulley side pin 8 goes to pulley side is ckp 2
pin 12 goes to tranny is ckp 1

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Charlie, did you drill the TL clutch case or change it out for a CL-S6 case?

Charlie Mariner

I got a cl tranny for 500 and sold the tl tranny to a guy with an accord for the lsd

Charlie Mariner

I also purchased a new rsx ckp sensor to make sure it works and it does

Im very impressed at how fast the car is now with just header and intake cat back still stock clears 150 in 5th no problem

Charlie Mariner

Does 0 to 100 quick as shit too

Charlie Mariner

anyone know how much boost the stock build can hold

Charlie Mariner

oh ya before i bought the new tranny i did try this out lol

Charlie Mariner

it did change the code from ckp a to out of range so i knew for sure and yes i know it doesn't read there i just wanted to see what would happen

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear the alternative RSX ckp sensor worked out!
Sounds good and glad you can now enjoy your car! I love that sweet VTEC pull in third gear myself.

hehe, mines been handling 5-6 psi on a CT-E S/C'er with no tune since 2005.


Hey, it's worth a try!

Thanks for updating your progress!

Charlie Mariner

No problem

Atlee Zabel

So why does the 6 speed throw PO335 crankshaft position sensor A no signal?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

335 = sensor did not respond to the ECU
336 = sensor has responded to the ECU but the values are not within spec.

​​​​

619rcr

Bump old thread to share recent CKP issue...
03 CLS6 bone stock engine and trans, recently swapped in clutch masters LFW, stage 3 clutch and pressure plate setup. After reassembly, with car still on jack stands got the dreaded P0336 CKP A circuit range / performance. Reset with code reader, went on test run and came back with loss of power and same DTC after about half mile. Did some research here, and considering the invested time and money for LFW, clutch and pressure plate setup opted to gamble $20 on replacement trans side sensor. Swapped in a RSX knock off per another thread suggestion:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-p...ilable-960248/

Thanks to poormansr btw. With only 10 miles from a short test run can't say it's fixed for sure, but fingers crossed

On a side note, the experimental mounting of sensor on thread 94 might've worked, had it been mounted by the ~1/4" protruding tabs which extend from the flywheel toward the pressure plate, not the teeth that the starter engages. Just my 2 cents.

619rcr

Update to last, little over 200 miles and no CKP code. But, I've had a couple noisy starter attempted starts. Presumably the teeth on the starter is not engaging the LFW teeth right. FML...

Funny I'm about to scrap an 01 Accord EX-L. Before it was stolen and abused, it used to be 339WHP (JDM H22 w/nitrous). Too bad the 4cyl mounts can't easily convert to V6. Much rather have the lighter frame.

gurudude

……

About 30k down the road TDC sensor bank 1 had issues with rubbing and ended up ending the sensor. New timing belt and replaced both sensors with only the right one with a slot chewed into it. Added spaces a little larger than slot. No codes has been good so far. Seems good to mention for people doing converts. Maybe the shaft is a little shorter on these. Pulley does not seem to rub. It’s little square parts on the inner pulley that had bad tolerance.

619rcr

That's interesting. I recently put new p8e heads from p2r on my new block and noticed a slight rubbing on one of the sensors when rotating the cam gear off the block. i put a small washer on the back and verified no more rubbing. p2r had warned me the cls6 head had a slight difference in the castings that i could fix by grinding something down on the front head and that it would be obvious when i saw it. i should clarify that i have rl cams with p2r cam shim kit, didnt do any other mods. anyways i have about 250 miles on the new engine assembly.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

The guy on the video below starts to talk about this 'difference' @5:35minutes then he shows @7:00 minutes the 'small indentation from the factory' on the front CL-S6 head.
I believe this is what you are referring to?
Check it out.

619rcr

hey Zeta, that is probably what p2r was referring to. Except, in my install I used the manual backing plate not the auto one. The plate seemed to fit fine, just that the sensor protruded just a hair too far and was lightly scraping the inner teeth on the cam gear. I attributed this to the rl cam spacers, but who knows for sure. Long story short I put a small washer between the back of the plate and one of the two sensors (forget which one) to pull it back from the inner cam gear triggering teeth. seemed to do the trick... Still good to know in case I ever get the aem ems. Picked up an AT front cam backing plate, front cam gear, AT sensors and timing drive gear from thefireball. Already had the AT engine wire harness.