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Edit: nevermind, answered by TSX Hokie

JTso

iTrader: (2)

They don't work exactly the same. The swaybar initially didn't do anything until the bushings (endlinks and D bushings) are compressed to the point that the "gives" are gone. Poly bushings being harder reduces that reactiion time and the swaybar seems more responsive and therefore, behaves like a larger bar. There are also solid bushings which further enhances that affect.

05_TSX_GP

Is grease gun a must-have tool to grease up the bushings? For on-going maintenance, is it easy to apply grease to the bushings without grease gun?

I suppose to access the bushings for greasing, jacking up the rear end is pretty much a must? I wonder if I could ask the dealer service guys to do that for me (even on an aftermarket rear sway) when I bring to car in for a regular maintenance any idea?

Alin10123

Well... if you dont have a grease gun the only way to grease up the bushings is to take the bushings off, grease them, and them put them back on. Which will be a PITA.

SO i guess... even with greaseable bushings, it's impossible to grease the bushings without a grease gun without taking the bushing off.

A grease gun is only like $10 @ home depot. It's worth the investment.
On my 4runner you didn't have to jack up anything to get to the bushings. I just reached under there and put a few squirts.
On the TSX though... i have to take a look. Someone will be able to chime in here. But it's still not a hard job to do.
When i took my 4runner in for an "alignment check" at a tire place, they greased it up for free for me when the technician heard a little bit of squeeking. It only takes 2 seconds.

05_TSX_GP

Thanks for your input

I am a giant when it comes to holding the tools/parts and doing things myself. I do read up and easily understand most mechanical stuff but just not used to "getting my hands dirty" so to speak. Not that I don't want to, I totally intend to start trying to do these simpler stuff myself

NightShredder

When I say once a month is recommended I am not speaking from personal experience. I have rubber bushings. Someone I know who is knowlegable in cars suggested the greasing once a month or I will hear a noise from the rear end. Possibly since it is very dry in Colorado that kind of maintenance is needed here more often that other places. Climate plays tricks on our cars no matter which car you have, that is why the manual has normal and severe driving conditions as far as maintenance goes. It all depends on where you live I guess.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

If you have the greaseable fitting on the D-bushing, then you should be able to apply the grease with the grease gun without taking the bushing apart, as the bushing has "channels" inside to distribute the grease. I have the non-greaseable poly bushings on the other car and I only greased it during the initial installation about 6 years ago and I've never had to lube it again since. I used the grease from Energy Suspension. I did the same thing to my Toyota truck about 2 years ago with the same result. I think using the right kind of grease would lessen the lube interval.

NightShredder

Oh I was just emphasizing how confused I was. It didn't make sense to me, but I am a noob here so it all makes sense in the end.

GIBSON6594

It's all good, your confusion confused me

Alin10123

When you say the car feels a lot more stable now. Is that while going through turns at higher speeds? Or higher speeds as in highway driving?

GIBSON6594

Both, it used to feel a little unstable when I started hitting the 90-100mph, now that is gone, its solid at high speed now.

You can also take turns now that were a bit shakey to take before, you can really throw her around a bit more now.

CCColtsicehockey

ok i have heard to much about this I am getting a rear sway as my next mod no questions

vwong

Are you sure? Neither the Comptech nor the Progress are JDM.

leftride

iTrader: (1)

CCC is screwed

Alin10123

If you're afraid to get grease under your fingernails, just buy some latex gloves.
That's what all the tech's at the dealership use. lol
But using a grease gun wont get your dirty at all. The grease fitting fits directly into the head of the gun. Just pull the trigger and grease flows into the bushing.

Alin10123

Ok, i just went out and looked under my TSX for you. It doesn't look like you have to jack up the rear in order to get a grease gun under there. So... just get on your knees and reach under the car.

On a side note, man... the stock swaybar is TINY!

Alin10123

If anyone here needs greaseable bushings here's a link.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

Click on the "energy suspension" link.
Here's the part # ENS-9-5158G

They are the black ones that are graphite impregnated (prevents squeeking even more), plus they have the zerk fitting on there. These are for the 22mm swaybar. If the TSX had end link bushings, then you could get those too from summit racing. But from closer inspection, the stock ones dont have endlink bushings. So,... these will do. Not bad for $13.

CCColtsicehockey

well thats the thing I have both my local tuner shops looking right now and calling everywhere to find me a JDM one. Maybe I will go with H&R

ForceSHO

Instructions..
http://www.thefesteringcyforce.com/g...sx-sway-04.jpg

It says outer holes are softer setting

I had it for about 3 month now... haven't heard any noise but i figure by winter Ill need to get under there..

I been able to take turns marked at 35 around 60-65.. scaring people left and right...

The HR bar supposely has special poly bushing that requires no grease, it just came out and on heavy back order... also 22mm.. I'm hoping one day to buy their bushing since I already own the the progress bar

vwong

H&R isn't JDM either.

CCColtsicehockey

but its not american either

jmathew34

it's european

05_TSX_GP

Thanks Alin for all the wonder info!!! I am not afraid to get my hands dirty, just don't want to mess things up on my ride, that's all... so doing lots of research before actually ordering and installing anything on it. There's no better place than a-tsx to search on TSX

One question out of curiousity. I've been having some noise from the rearend from time to time, sounds like metal tapping noise which (from my previous searches here) may have to do with endlink (my car is bone stock). It seems a good number of users here have experienced noise from stock endlink (being loose and whatnot). Now you mention there's no endlink bushing on the stock bar, can this be a reason for those endlink noise?

Couple more related questions On the stock bar without endlink bushing, can I still somehow apply some grease to that joint? Would that eliminate the rearend noise I have?

CCColtsicehockey

CALLING ALL JDM COMPANIES. SOMEONE PLEASE MAKE A REAR SWAY FOR THE EURO R I WILL BUY IT!!!!!!

CCColtsicehockey

after putting in my new suspension i also have noise from the endlinks how do I get rid of it

05_TSX_GP

Man, that hurted my eyes

questions regarding Euro-R: what size is the stock rear sway on it?? Same as our TSX stock one? You mean, not Mugen, not Spoon has a beefed up rear sway for the Euro-R ?!?!

Dan Martin

It's 14mm so it must be close if not he same as the TSX.

NightShredder

sway bar is cool but you should also get the a-spec sport suspension. A-spec and sway go together like pb and jelly. Everything they said about response and handling with sway +10.

NightShredder

The other day I passed a line of cars on Loveland Pass here and looked down to see 105 mph. Loveland is a two lane mountain pass with a speed limit of 35. I didn't even know or feel like I was going that fast. Needless to say I slowed down, but it was suprising how stable and smooth the car was at that speed.

Physics still applies in turns. Be careful of oversteer. I don't go into corners as hot as I come out but I do go into them faster than if I had stock. Once I get into the turn I can stomp it and the car just sticks.

Alin10123

One thin you could do is get under there and take your hand the try to wiggle it. The end links on the sway bars are ball joints. Usually the ball joints that i have typically seen have a rubber seal that's already on there and those rubber seals are usually filled with grease. So... from my personal experience with other swaybars, i dont think that the grease is the problem. Now on the other hand, if you take your hand and you wiggle the endlinks and there's a little bit of play somewhere between the suspension and the actual swaybar end. You might want to try tightening the bolt up that connects the swaybar to the endlinks. Otherwise... if it's still loose, you may have a bad endlink.

Let me know what you find. I'll do my best to help you out.

Alin10123

After the suspension settled in did you get under there and retorque everything to spec? If not, that's probably your culprit.
If the bolt is tight within specs, you may want to take your hand and try to wiggle the endlink. The endlink is basically made of ball joints. The balljoints should be moveable by hand but there should be a LOT of resistance. If it's loose or you can move the balljoints easily while it's connected to the swaybar, you may have a bad balljoint. Also, if there's grease leaking out of the balljoint, you may have a bad endlink. Go and check under the car, and let me know.

CCColtsicehockey

Already got the tein flex coilovers

CCColtsicehockey

I look at my speedo all the time after not paying attention and realise I am doing like 20 over it is not a good habit but the car has such a good feeling at high speeds you dont even realise it.

al8818

1. I have the EuroR CL7R and have fitted the Comptech 22mm sway bar for about a year now.

Apart for some weight differences due to luxury items and sound proofing and cosmetic styling differences, the JDM Accord, Australian Accord Euro, European Accord and TSX run similar if not identical mechanicals and suspension mounting points. There may be slight differences in damper rates and spring rates but are in the same ballpark.

2. When a sway bar is fitted to any axle, it connects left and right and reduces its independence. It also reduces the overall total grip produced by that axle. It also has the pleasant side effect of reducing body roll. However chassis tuners use it to compromise grip to provide closer to neutral handling when a stiffer bar is used.

It is a torsion bar and only works when it is twisted. It is only tristed when one side is compressed and the other is in extension like in a corner. There is more lean with a soft(standard) suspension and hence the sway bar produces the greatest twist with large suspsnsion movements.

If you limit suspension travel by using stiffer springs, the twist effected by the sway bar is then also less. Most sway bars should come as a complete set with the springs and dampers. However sales of this package is terribly slow I suspect that is why they are sold seperately so you have the freedom to mix and match. (customers like this idea)

The stiffer sway bar is to induce oversteer at the limit. Before the limit, its effect is mainly to limit body roll which is why many users say it is so stable. In an oversteer or even neutral steer, it is typically described as "loose" in the back, some would even describe it as having the willies.

3. Honda has done such a good job in the CL7/CL9 with the rear suspension geometry, there is actually too much grip compared to CL1 and DC2 which were very willing to oversteer. The CL7 errs on the side of safety which is understeer.

TechSX

I agree with you that the stiffer bushings will improve the reaction time and responsiveness of the rear sway, but the ES poly bushings that I purchased had the same stiffness and flex as the factory rubbers. It really comes down to how well both products were made. Honestly speaking, I didn't feel any difference w/ the poly bushings, and I doubt anybody else did. This is just my personal opinion, no flamming intended.

Alin10123

Eeer? Really? The polys felt as hard as the rubber ones? hmm... there should be a LITTLE difference. The difference may not be too noticeable, but i'm willing to bet it still helps.

csj0952

How hard is this progress bar to install? I've never done any mechanical work like this before? Does anyone have any pictures or instructions? Thanks so much.

Savio

this is for the comptech but you should get the idea...

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21136