kaikai114

Just went to have my alignment done at Firestone. For some reason, the technician kept on telling me that the front camber can't be adjusted, I thought the only ones not adjustable are the rear cambers? Front cambers are within range @ 0.3 Left and -0.2 Right, while the Rear is @ -1.4 Left and -2.3 Right My car is sitting on stock springs/shocks so I'm surprised that right rear camber is that much off, is that normal??? Please help, thanks.

Dan Martin

I was under the impression that the front camber was adjustable but it definitely isn't. It just doesn't change as much as the rear when lowering.

The rear camber on your car is out of spec. It's supposed to be within -0.5 to -1.5.

xizor

that's significantly off for a stock setup, I don't think you can get it back in spec from those ranges w/o a camber kit. Have you hit anything bend the rear suspension?

dzuy

heck no. that's way off. that's how bad mine was - until i got a camber kit.

:troutslap

kaikai114

I don't think I've hit anything significant that I can hear or remember. For a while, the rear right wheel always looked a lot more slanted than the left, I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me.

I'm just a bit concerned why it is so off in the stock setup. Especially on the right side, will camber fix that or is there another problem to it? I know this is probably repeating one of the posts, but since the left is @ -1.4 degrees, cant I also have the alignment shop adjust the rear right to -1.4 as well? Just seems kinda odd to me to have that big of a difference between left and right in stock form.

Dzuy, was ur camber similar to -2.3 degree before you lowered your car or after?

-K

JTso

iTrader: (2)

That so called in range front spec of 0.3 Left and -0.2 Right can still cause your car to pull the the left. Just imagine what happens when the car is lowered.
I'd rather spend the extra $ to make sure I can adjust the settings when necessary. Why pay for an alignment job when the settings can't be changed?

vwong

That is exactly why I don't like the ball joint type camber kit. Just look at the distance between the knuckle and the UCA that the ball joint had increased, and the nut sticking out on top of the UCA. If the car is low enough (or even in hard cornering), that nut can bottomout and hit the inner metal. I've seen that happened before on Civics, Integras, and Preludes.

How low is your car, JTso? Have you experienced bottoming out with that ball joint?

JTso

iTrader: (2)

My car is lowered 1.9" front, but didn't experience any bottom out yet. I can measure the upper clearance above the ball joint when I get home later.

TSX 3Pedal

I agree...ever since I bought my TSX, the left and right rear camber seemed to be different from each other. So I thought that it was just me looking at them at a weird angle or something.

kaikai114

With all that being said, I did not see much tire wear or uneven wear in the rear when I replaced my stock rims/tires My cross camber is at 0.8 degrees, just on the edge of factory spec, that's possibly the reason I wasn't getting much wear or none at all. The back just don't look so nice with the wheels slanting inward that much

-K

LannyM

Since you're stock, you have to at least get them to adjust the rear suspension carriage so that you could even out the camber to -1.85 per side.

The stock tires are so hard that they really don't show any wear from the camber issue. A guy I work with ran his RSX-S on H&R race springs (2.5" drop), no camber kit, same tires as us but 16", 15K miles with /\ crazy rear camber, didn't even rotate, and his tires showed only minimal inner wear.......

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Hey vwong, thanks for the heads up. I took some measurement and it has about 2" of clearance above the big nut. However, I think it did touch the inner metal at some point as it left a mark. I believe it happened when I installed my first set of lowering springs awhile back with the bump stop trimmed off. The bump stops were replaced shortly after. I probably will look for another set of camber kit without the clearance problem. Perhaps something like this with built-in caster adjustment. What do you think?

AlterZgo

kaikai,

My stock rear camber was -1.0 left and -2.1 degrees right. The right side was out of spec from the factory and the car has a very slight pull to the left that I don't notice much anymore.

Since there is no fix from the factory, I plan on adding a rear camber kit when I lower my car.

JKV808TSX

Geez, and I thought I was pist when I paid $93.70 to get my tires aligned then the techs told me my rear/front cambers cant be adjusted and recommended camber kits... frick. So what was the $93.70 for!? Uhhggg, times like that..feels like I just wanna throw back my stock suspension. GRRRR

vwong

It's better to find out early rather than later when a hole has already developed.

The one you posted looks nice, but I think it still would hit. See the distance between the top of the ball joint and the top of the UCA? It seems like a lot to me. The ones I like the most are the Skunk one for the Integras and Civics, and the Cusco one for the G35s. These are similar to the one JTso posted, but without caster adjustment. They are lower profile and less chance of the arm bottoming-out. Another design I like is the ones used in the Realtime TSXs. I don't know if there is a name for this type of design, but they use shims to adjust the camber.

kaikai114

a rear camber kit will totally fix the problem right? i hope that off to the right isnt a problem with the suspension carriage being not aligned.

-K

kaikai114

Toe matters more than camber, if that alignment shop did make sure your Toes (not the 10 you got on ur feet) are within spec, then it's worth it. Though $94 bux for one time alignment seems pretty steep to me. My Acura dealer actually have Firestone alignment shop do alignments, think they have a business contract. So I suppose Firestone is pretty reliable, they have life time alignment for $150

-K