JRock

And I think you're right about a flywheel and clutch being mods for down the road. Especially a clutch. I was just thinking of it at the track and an upgraded clutch is always a good thing when you're launching hard and shifting hard. The flywheel though, should offer some sort of improvement in how the car revs, especially if you also do pulleys to remove some of the parasitic drag from accessories, etc, and raise the rev limited with an ECU reflash or piggyback.
I'm assuming we're trying to get the best possible track ET here. If you're just talking daily driver with added performance for a dragstrip visit forget all this and either stick with I/H/E for minimal gains (or just stay stock as far as engine mods go) or go with a supercharger kit if/when one is available.

So when I was looking at getting the most performance out of the TSX I was looking toward the track and the minor improvement I/H/E would add was negligable, but the improvements from suspension and transmission upgrades would more noticeably add benefit at the track.

TSX Cman

JTso , your car looks dope. those rims with the ride hieght and body kit make your tsx look like none other.
good job

jiggaman

:whocares:

gsclifton

iTrader: (2)

Talk about a thread hijack . . . .

JT-

Looks good man.

jaydub

Looks very nice. Also nice to see that you don't have to butcher the stock stuff to install the Konis, like you do on the EP3 civics.

Good work!

zzzed

has anyone used these on TSX? http://www.kingmotorsports.com/produ...48&vehicle=TSX the koni threaded spring perch sleeves? it looks like it makes the koni's adjustable?

jmathew34

yep, just like the description on the page says

"Koni Threaded Spring Perch Sleeves allow you to convert a Sport Strut into a fully ride-height adjustable suspension system. You gain additional ride-height adjustment over the standard Sport Struts and the vehicle can also be corner weighted for perfect cross balance. Another benefit is the ability to run the standard range of 2.5" ID or 2.25" ID race springs."

jmathew34

yep, just like the description says:

"Koni Threaded Spring Perch Sleeves allow you to convert a Sport Strut into a fully ride-height adjustable suspension system. You gain additional ride-height adjustment over the standard Sport Struts and the vehicle can also be corner weighted for perfect cross balance. Another benefit is the ability to run the standard range of 2.5" ID or 2.25" ID race springs."

xizor

if you search, jtso and i looked into it in another thread and there is more information

zzzed

yeah, i saw that.....but what i was really wondering is if the threaded spring perches just allow infinte setting between the grooves on the shock, or does increase the range of shock mounting points-that is can you lower the spring mount more than the factory grooves on the shocks? i looked on the koni website and did not see the threaded adjusters.....i guess i may call kingmotorsports and see if they know.....

shitbox

does anyone know where i can get koni yellows in toronto? how much does it cost?
does is matches with the DF210 Tanabe springs?

kaikai114

wow.... JTso, very nice work on ur cg tsx, i love how the TL rims look on our tsx. I have a set coming soon myself and I got a SSM, will post some pics when they're ready. your car gave me a huge inspiration on getting the TL rims, all the mod you've done are nice and clean, keep up the very nice work

also, just a quick question for u guys experienced with aftermarket springs coupled with stock shocks. If you have the Comptech Springs (drops 1 inch front/back) with stock strut/shocks, how long would you expect the stock strut/shocks to last under normal driving conditions? What are the signs of wear & tear on the stock shocks that I should be aware of? any advice would be appreciated

curik_euro

Hi Jtso,

I just purchased a set of yellow koni for my accord euro. Which perch are you using for the front and rear? Does the stock (highest perch) gives the height of the stock shocks? I will be using prokit and I like the drop of it.

Also, how would you adjust the stiffness of the shocks? I tried to give it a go and the knob can just turn infinitely, so how are we supposed to know how far are we from the stiffest/ lowest settings?

I will really appreciate all your advice before I proceed with installing them on the euro. Thanks!

xizor

do a search on koni's and you'll find a ton of information from jtso, vituralbong and others that have installed koni's

Perth_Euro

i just had konis fitted to front. Will post pics in a couple of days

curik_euro

First I'd like to thank everyone here for recommending the konis. They are really great on the euro. By the way, for anyone who have spent their time finding a good setup on the damping levels, how many turns are you guys recommending for compliant ride and good handling compromise? currently I have all 4 set to the softest and it feels fine. Thanks!

Perth_Euro

i have fitted em to mine too
before



After




Koni's on front with King springs super lows.
Rear is just king springs super lows

i find that the konis are cosiderable firmer. The ride heigh is exactly how i want it.
Over continous undulations the front becomes a bit "rattley"
I have also developed a drive train noise front right side..... im hoping its not a drive shaft.

Perth_Euro

kyotousa

It's firmer because you dropped like 3inches

anyway....you guys choose koni + shock over coilover?

why's that? Tein basic cost almost the same

Perth_Euro

I realise this

shane2

JTso, I've bought a set of Koni yellow dampers for my Honda Accord Euro, which in Australia is probably the same car as the Acura TSX. See http://www.honda.com.au/wps/wcm/conn...odel+Overview/

I do not want to lower the car and I will be using the standard springs. I just want a better damped ride.

The Konis I have bought look the same as yours and have the following part numbers -
1. 8041-1329 rear
2. 8041-1322L and R for the fronts

I have tried to install these dampers on the weekend. I started with one of the rears but struck some problems and ended up reinstalling the standard damper for the time being. Most of these "problems" were caused by me not reading the instructions closely enough (well they're just diagrams mostly) but I have two issues remaining please.

1. Did you use the washers provided by Koni to be installed either side of the eyelet at the bottom of the rear damper body? I don't think these will fit and may have been supplied to be used when these dampers are fitted to a different vehicle?

2. How did you remove the bump stop retainer plate from the standard dampers? I didn't try very hard and it may just need a tap with a hammer? Mine felt as though it was pressed on but it is sold as a seperate part by here by Honda suggesting that it is removable.

Thanks,
Shane.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

It's been awhile since I installed the Konis so I'm going by memory...

1. I don't remember about the washers... If Koni provides new ones, then use them. The ID on the replacement washers might be larger to fit the Koni shaft. There should be new metal sleeves with larger ID to replace the stock metal sleeves that go through the bushings.

2. If you are referring to the thick washer that goes on top of the bump stop, then you simply turn the shock upside down and tap the washer with a hammer. It will come right off.

3. You also have to enlarge the top of the dust boot to fit over the Koni shaft.

shane2

Answering your comments respectively JTso -

1. I'm not sure that we're discussing the same part here. The Koni provided washers will, if fitted, sit vertically either side of the lower end of the damper body, either side of the eyelet. The eyelet and washers then sit in a clamp and a bolt goes through all parts horizontally. This holds the entire lower end of the damper body. I don't reckon these washers will fit and may not be needed?

2. Okay, I'll tap the washer off lightly.

3. No worries with the dust cover. That won't be hard.

Thanks for your help JTso!!
Shane.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Ah, now I kinda of remember those washers. They are for the rear shocks lower mount on either side of the eyelet. I didn't use those as the shock fits perfectly without them. I think those are for other model applications.

shane2

Thanks again JTso. That's what I thought. Sorry I didn't point out clearly that I was talking about the rear dampers.

We're having a second go tomorrow and I feel confident. I'll let you know how we go.

Thanks again for your help,
Shane.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

No problem. There is a trick when removing the rear shock from the lower mount. You need to push down on the knuckle while lifting the shock up and out of the lower mount.

shane2

Hi JTso,
I have the Konis installed with OEM springs and a Whiteline 18mm rear sway bar. I'm really happy with the result and the rear suspension is now a lot less busy. Damping is greatly improved too, especially in the rear.
Some mates and I ended up installing the rears ourselves but I had to pay to have the fronts installed. We were unable to compress the spring without an industrial bench spring compressor.
Shane.

sane

hi jtso, great info! quick question if you don't mind:

i'm assuming the bigger shock is front and the smaller is the rear.

which ring positions would be equivalent to stock height with stock springs?
and, with stock springs, what would the drops (inches) be at each ring position?

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Wow, this thread is old. According to the previous pics, the one with the larger spring seat is the rear. However, I can't remember which setting is stock height, as I didn't use that particular setting. Also, keep in mind there is another Neuspeed/Koni setup which has more increment height adjustment than the one I used.

sane

ya i noticed it was, thx

also noticed the neuspeed shocks did give more adjustability than the koni ones ("sp3" part #s), if anything i just wanted to see what WAS achieveable if i didn't go the neuspeed route.

thanks anyhow!

hotpinoy69

Hey JTso, I know this is an extremely old thread but I figured you'd be the best to answer a question I had about the konis. This may be kind of stupid but on the front shocks, does it matter which one goes on the left or the right? I noticed one had a bracket on it and the other did not. I just installed mine today with the eibach pro-kit springs and the driver's side front tire won't stop rubbing (I figure I might have installed them backwards if that was the case) and I rolled the fender, tucked the plastic liner in, and have the shock set on the top ring. If you or anybody else has any ideas please help me out, I've tried searching everywhere for answers to only come up with nothing.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

If I remember correctly, there's a difference because of the brake line mounting bracket.

blair

The Koni shocks for the front are specific to the right or left. There are different part numbers for the front shocks. The right side shock has a R in the part number and the left side shock has a L in it. The front shock with the bracket should go on the left/driver's side wheel.

http://www.neuspeed.com/products/product_details.asp?app=63|TX&type=2&ltype=ns_impo rt&p_id=1817

Blair

hotpinoy69

Right after I typed that, I figured that out. Now I need to figure out how to not rub.