TSXTuner

Progressively and then suddenly worse last week I started picking up
bumb steer effects from the rear.

The inside of my tires, new fuzions, are cupping and noisy.

The camber shifted to -2.8 and -2.3, toe was not terrible.

The rubber on the inside camber link is compressed and squeezing out,
both sides. The outer end and the toe links "look" ok.
If this bushing is shifting on bumps induces large toe shifts in our rear
suspension. The tire noise has cleaned up with alignment but bump
steer still there. Good thing I got the lifetime alignment, I tip the
guy every time too. They could balk about non original equipment.

I've also been picking up suspension noises on bumps, the comptech
RSB frame bushings are doing the same think, squeezing out where they
are slit.
The noise may be the camber or RSB bushing or both.

I have new poly RSB bushings coming, anyone know what size type
poly bushings can be used in the ingalls links?

moda_way

Not sure you can remove them. As I recall they were compressed in.

Did you torque everything correctly? Sounds like a few things either didn't get torqued enough or got over-torqued. First I've heard of this.

Take some pics and post. I'd also suggest sending to Ingall. They take their products pretty seriously.

iTimmy

If you are having rear bump steer something is seriously wrong, that simply should not happen with a 5 link rear suspension that does not turn - like the TSX uses. If it is rear bump steer it would very hard to correct, you would need to shorten or lengthen which ever link was not moving on the same axis as the others. Are you sure its not coming from the front? I've never experienced rear bump steer before.

TSXTuner

Yes I very carefully torqued everthing twice. The last alignment did
well for a long time but this started up after 10k miles. It seems the
rubber bushings gave out.

Down and loaded it's compressed and squeezing out the sides, a bump would
compress it more to the limit and then on rebound when this compression is fully released would be 2-3 degrees of camber shift which on our car moves the toe significantly, thus rear bump steer.

I set up my own alingment before and then had it checked at the shop. When adjusting the ingalls camber link the toe moves significantly, that's how our
multilink works. So I think this rubber bushing moving around is producing
toe shifts.

I'll get pictures Saturday.

moda_way

Definitely sounds like a failure for sure. Make sure you try to warranty it with Ingall.

castillo183

I have a set of rear ingalls install?????? I dont know everytime that I am doing over 60 mph the back wheel move around like they are loose?

moda_way

sounds like your toe has moved out of spec. That is what you are feeling when you hit a bump. More than likely, the locking nut wasn't locked down as tight as it could be. You'll need to take it back and get the alignment checked. Tell the service tech to make sure a crow's foot is used to tighten down the locking nuts on the bar which controls toe. I had a failure on this once and it chewed up my tires on a 1500 mile trip.

aaronng

The locking nuts for the lower control arm are meant to be replaced with new ones each time you remove them. Unfortunately, Ingalls does not provide new ones, nor can you find these metal-tab locking nuts at your usual dedicated nut and bolt shop. Mine we loose in a way that I could tighten them up with all my strength, but then was able to loosen them with very little force. So I used loctite to keep the nut from loosening itself.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Most hardware stores should carry nylon nuts for such purpose. However, they are also designed to be single use only.

http://www.germes-online.com/direct/..._Lock_Nuts.jpg

JTso

iTrader: (2)

My wife's car experienced similar problem with an adjustable camber kit. She was mentioning about this noise from the rear every time she goes over a bump. Unfortunately, before I had a chance to take a look at the problem, the threads on the adjustable camber shaft stripped while she was driving on the freeway. The rear wheel went inward as a result and the tire was rubbing against the coil spring. Eventually the entire side wall of the tire disappeared within a matter of seconds.

aaronng

Yeah, but I wonder what was the reason for Acura to use metal tab locking nuts? Was there a something that the nylon locking nuts couldn't achieve? Long lifespan?

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

I am not clear on the issue with the camber kit. This would be the first ingalls complaint wever heard.

Bushing squishing out?

Do you have some pics?

Nothing wrong with reusing those locking nuts either guys. Don't put crappy nyloc nuts on.

aaronng

I reused them, but one of the nuts doesn't lock anymore. Instead, I used loctite to hold it in. I don't have confidence in nylon nuts because the nylon part will crack when exposed to the environment and vibration.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Shouldn't tightening it be sufficient? I have R&Red at least 100 of these things in the last 3 years.

Marcus

aaronng

I did try tightening it tightly. Then I did a test to see how much force it took to loosen up and it came off without me needing to put in any strength! Was quite alarming. I'll check it periodically, but in the end, I think I will need to get a new locking nut from the dealer.