GTSX-05

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I am looking for some help in regards to an issue that has been prolonged since the end of summer. I got into an accident with my TSX and ended up skidding, then hitting a curb with my driver side wheel head on pretty hard, so hard that the wheel was slightly bent, so I decided to replace it.

Furthermore, after getting an alignment done, my vehicle does drive fairly straight with only the slightest pull to the left; however there appears to be visually way too much negative caster on the driver side wheel compared to the passenger side.

I am not sure what exactly is wrong; I believe my lower control arm might be bent? But I am not an expert nor have the slightest hint as to what could be causing the problem. I believe on our vehicles caster is not adjustable?

Any input of any degree would be greatly appreciated, there are lots of pictures attached if it helps?

Picture of negative caster


Driverside wheel lifted


Wheel removed


Upper strut


Lower control arm






Front sway bar endlink










I am not sure if any of these pictures help? or if anyone could spot something that looks wrong. I am guessing I might need a new control arm, however I have no idea.

curls

It does look further set towards the rear of the car than normal.

What are the specs from the alignment (they normally give a printout of the before/after specs)? Specifically, the caster numbers compared to each other.

Once you know if it truly is out, then diagnosing the exact part is next. That's where I can't help but an alignment expert likely could, especially if you provide him with the information about the curb incident.

GTSX-05

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the comment Curls...

I have been doing some reading up on different forums and what not, seems like 99% of the situations that are very similar to mine resulted in a bent LCA, or a bent strut. Since the Koni struts were swapped in after the accident it can’t be a bent strut issue. Visually it’s almost impossible to tell if the LCA is in fact bent, all I know is that there is a lot of negative caster and it’s really starting to bother me. Summer is fast approaching and I want to straighten out this issue before I mount up my new wheels and tires.

I am going get an alignment/ body shop take a detailed look for me tomorrow if I get some free time and order the new LCA.

$298.00 CDN + taxes is what I was quoted from a local dealer for a new LCA.

LukeaTron

The LCA does seem a likely culprit. You should probably take it to a place that does collision work and has a full frame rack just to make sure the frame is still true. That must have been a jarring collision.

GTSX-05

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I am not sure if anyone here can help me but I learned a lot from reading this thread and wanted to check to see if anyone had or could give me any advice on a situation I am having with an automatic 2005 Acura TSX. The vehicle was involved in an accident; loss of control causing it to violently hit a curb on the front driver side wheel. As a result the wheel was bent and replaced, at first there seemed to be way to much negative caster as the body-shop informed me that the sub frame took most of the impact and was bent. They told me they pulled it to the best of their ability and if I wanted more positive caster that the LCA might be a likely suspect.

I then swapped out the driver side LCA with a new one yet the problem still persisted. There was no gain in positive caster at all, leading me to think that the LCA was not the issue however since it was pretty obvious that the subframe was bent as it was pulled, lead me to change the subframe with a new one.

However no gain in positive caster at all, I still have the exact same problem as before. I had both subframes side by side and it was pretty obvious that one looked stressed and was bent, however after the new one had been installed I still have the same negative caster issue.

It is important to note that the front subframe bolt was bent very slightly. I informed the shop to change it however it ran late into the day and the dealership sent the wrong subframe bolt so they swapped the old one in for now. However It’s only bent very, very slightly I am sure it’s not going to fix the issue at most it might help improve it very slightly.

The driver side wheel is pushed back by shy over a finger gap versus the passenger side.

It is also important to note that new struts were also swapped in as I suspected they might be bent so I ordered a new set.

I wanted to check with you guys as to see what my next plan of action should be, by looking at the picture below and after reading everything I’ve had to say does it look like a good alignment shop might be able to shift the subframe and move it a shy over finger gap into the positive? This is the only thing I haven’t tried unless you guys think I might have bent a UCA or something else in the wheel assembly.

I am going to swap in a new front subframe bolt tomorrow morning however since it was only bent very slightly I don’t think it’s going to fix my problem

Any advice is greatly appreciated, this has turned out to be a very costly fix and I don’t want it to be for nothing I would like to fix this issue.

-Gary. (ps picture is attatched)

curls

Well it should be obvious, but I would try doing the cheaper stuff first, like replacing the bolt w/ a good one, vs paying a shop $XX/hr to shift the subframe.

Have you seen any recent caster measurement angles from this body shop? Is the caster within spec? (Sorry I don't have my manual handy but according to the latest alignment I had, the spec for front suspension should be):
Measurement / Min / Max
Caster / 2.5* / 3.9*
Camber / -0.7* / 0.7*
Toe / -0.05* / 0.05*

Check your angles against these and see what comes of it. Maybe the numbers are OK but the entire suspension, including top strut mount, had been shifted backwards about 3/4" (finger width?)? If that's the case, but your numbers are OK, I'd say to live with it instead of throwing good money at something that might never be fixed.