I've noticed this more lately, I think, because of the colder weather.

When I am at a stop light, etc, I notice a mild vibration from the engine translating through the steering wheel even after the engine has warmed up.
As soon as I start to accellerate the vibration goes away.

Is this just maybe do to the cold weather ~30F or is my engine running rough?
I recently got the oil changed so I don't think it's that.

 

I notice it too at stoplights when the car is still warming up (~1000 rpms). It goes away on my car when it reaches operating temp and the idle drops to 750-800 rpms.

Its probably a resonance point in the torque converter if its an auto tranny. Could be a bad motor mount if its a manual, though not likely on a newer car.

 

It's AT and only has about 13k on it.

 

I get the same, but it's a very slight vibration in the wheel. I mostly feel it through the seat, pedals, and stick. It only lasts until the idle drops below 1000rpm.

 

I'll keep an eye on the rpms the next time. Thanks for the heads up.

 

is your A/C on? a friend of mine was in my car and hit virtually every button on the dash, and i didn't realize he turned the A/C on. i opened the hood, and found that the compressor would blow air every time i came to a stop, and the tach would also waver uncharacteristically. i don't know how non-nav models work, but with mine, if neither "On" nor "Off" are highlighted on the A/C screen, it means the A/C is definitely on.

i drove for a full week with the A/C inadvertently turned on, and the idling/vibrating was worrying me.....until i turned off the A/C.

hopefully, that's the same problem you're having.

 

Auto mode will turn on the AC as needed. The only way to prevent that is to hit the OFF button.

 

Here's what I noticed happens. When you hit the auto button, air comes on and the compressor kicks in as well. Eventually, the system will open the vent. If you decide to close the vent, the auto light will go out, BUT the AC system will still be on.

Like Dan said, you have to hit the off button to make sure...

 

If you hit AUTO then all the controls are on automatic and will try to keep the temperature at your setting. After "AUTO" if you hit the "A/C" button it will turn off the air conditioning but keep all the other functions on automatic (fan speed, which vents, inside/outside air etc.).

 

I have the vibration during warmup also. It's especially bad around 1000RPM, and I think it's definitely an AT thing. If you throw it into nuetral, it gets a lot smoother. But, once the engine is warmed and the rpm is at 600-800, it's very smooth in drive.

I've noticed when it's cold the engine first warms up at about 1500rpm, then bumps idle down to about 1000rpm. Once it's fully warmed up it will idle around 700rpm.

 

Mine does this too while warming up. I looked down the other day and it was reving at 900 rpm and vibrating the steering wheel. I have an 05 5AT.

 

I've notice on a 2003 honda accord v6 w/ navi, when i go to turn on the front defrost (its cold here at boston mass) the compressor kicks on. the temp settings is on 80. is that suppose to happen? also if i want to turn on the heat manually on the screen I select off on the navi screen, select where the vent blows, then select the fan speed and the ac stays off.

but with the 2005 tsx w/navi if i do the same thing (select off on the ac b4 i turn everything on) the off deselects it self and the compressor kicks on and i have to turn it off again. does anybody has the same problem??

 

This vibration has been bugging since day one.

As most have posted, it immediately goes away when you turn off the A/C and feels worst when both the A/C compressor and engine fan are on. Not only can you hear it but also feel it resonate through the steering column.

... Would it be possible to dynamat the compressor?

 

I went to dealer try to fix the same problem, they told me that is normal / common issue, and the vibration is caused by the A/C fan...

 

i have the same issue on a brand new 06'.
why does the compressor always come on? i just want heat and i don't see why the compressor always has to go on.. it seems to waste a lot of gas too when compressor is on.

why didn't acura just put a "heat" button? is turning the heat on possible without turing on the compressor? right now i just hit the A/C button below the Navi and hit one of the fan speeds.. but i think it still turns on the compressor even if "on" or "off" is not highlighted.

 

They use the compressor to dry the air in the winter to prevent your windows from fogging up. It shouldn't go on all the time, just when it needs to.

 

well as soon as i turn the heat on the compressor comes on.. i assume it's not on all the time even when heat is on but it's sort of stupid to automatically come on for defrost reasons since that's why there are defrost buttons.

i just find the car using alot of gas an i'm wondering if it's because the compressor.. right now i'm getting about 22MPG, i filled up the car 3 times and the car only has 850 miles.. seems like a lot of gas to me, even for the break-in period..

 

22mpg is fine for the first little while. I didn't start to save any fuel until after the first scheduled maintenance.

 

A relative of mine works for Acura. He contacted engineers at Honda regarding the rough idle and driveability issues raised by me regarding my 06 5AT TSX, They claim that there have been no issues raised by customers regarding the 'rough idle', and therefore no effort is being made to address the issue - yet. He suggests that if a few customers raise these concerns, it will be handled expeditiously. I guess its a case of "the squeaky wheel getting the grease"!

 

I have recently noticed my 6MT idles a bit rougher at a stop light when warmed up and idling at ~750 RPMs. It used to be un-noticable, now I feel a slight vibration. I have almost 12K miles, and have never used any fuel injector cleaner at all. Has anyone had any experience with Lucas brand fuel injector cleaner? I have heard it's really effective...

 

Resontant Frequency. With the engine running at a certain rpm, and the AC compressor on, both will be vibrating and certain frequencies. Things around the car will have the same frequency and "Resonate" when mechanical parts are operating at these frequencies.

On my Integra I noticed that at different rpm's different things around the car will resonate. Whether its the change slot, the door panels, the center console, etc. It's something that really can't be avoided, just minimized.

 

yah same for me.......last about 2 sec...
is that normal?

 

I've had the same issue since I got the car in July of 2005. I have a 2005 5AT. I'm just about to hit 10,000 miles and take the car in for its first scheduled maintenance. I was going to mention the problem when I take it in, but I didn't want to sound stupid if it's a normal thing.

It's cold here in Ohio and I certainly haven't had the air conditioner on recently. I don't use the defrost much, so I assumed that the compressor was OFF. Are you all saying it's coming on anyway? Even when you need heat (not A/C) and the defroster is not on?

 

Here's a typical example of discussion thread giving the impression the problem is worst than it really is.

Maybe it's just me but that little vibration thing really didn't bother me -- it only lasts a minute or two. It's certaintly not something that I would ask the dealer to check and try to fix. I learned that the less the dealer messes with the car, the better. (The only people that I wouldn't mind touching my car is the people who built it

 

my dealer told me that its just a characteristic of a 4cyl from honda.

not that bigga deal doesn't bother me once i found out there was nothing to worry about.

 

Good to know. It's not that it bothers me so much that I want it fixed. I only planned to mention it to the dealer because I wanted to make sure it wasn't a sign of something worse. Now that I know it's normal, it's no big deal.

FWIW, my 98 Honda Civic used to do it too... but it didn't start doing it until around 80,000 miles or so.

 

as with all hondas, if you select front defrost, the A/C automatically comes on. there is probably a fix for it (it happened on my '04 RSX, but there was a trick to disable it). it would actually turn on A/C when i selected defrost, and there was no way to turn it off. pain in the butt. i eventually did get it disabled by holding two or three buttons when starting up the car (weird!). since you can select defrost and then turn A/C off in the TSX, i'm fairly certain there isn't a way to turn off A/C altogether unless you want it.

besides, if you hit the defrost button (i have nav, so i'm not sure if it's the same w/ non-nav people), it takes all of 15 seconds to clear the windshield. i can live with 15 seconds of A/C, but driving with it on all the time hurts engine performance.

 

It's supposed to turn on the A/C if you select defrost. This is because it needs to dry out the air in order to defrost. I'm sure most cars do this, I think most just don't make a point of it (that is, an A/C light doesn't light up).

What I don't understand is why the A/C would come on when I don't have defrost on and it's cold outside so I need heat. Some people suggested this is happening. I can't imagine why it would need to turn on the A/C then unless it suddenly "can tell" there's moisture in the air.

 

Our climate control always has the A/C on, regardless you are using defrost or not. The only way to disable the A/C at any temperature is to hit the A/C button, so it indicates "A/C OFF."

BTW, like someone's mentioned before, "A/C OFF" functionality doesn't apply to defrost mode.

 

But why? I don't understand why the A/C needs to be on at all times. It can't possibly be needed at ALL times. There isn't always extra moisture in the air.

 

There are no matinence lights on it keeps reving up and down but drives normal. i changed the throttle body gasket and it just started. I checked for vacum leeks but there is none. Please help!!

 

Keeps reving up n down but runs great

 

Suggest checking for massive air leak; pcv, vacuum brake booster. If you removed throttle body to clean, something may be disconnected.

Did you force throttle plate open to clean? I've read you can damage the throttle plate sensor/actuator by forcing open.

I've read that only way to open throttle plate is to turn keyswitch to On, and force accelerator pedal to floor w/ something to cause throttle plate to open for cleaning.

good luck