Reg transmission fluid change..
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: VA
Age: 48
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Reg transmission fluid change..
Hi All,
I changed the transmission fluid ( basically i drained it and refilled up to 3 Quarts). When i drained it only half gallon came out.
When i checked the level using the dip stick it was clearly above the high mark..
Is overfilling causes any problems ?? ( i guess i might have put close to 1 quart extra)...
Before changing the transmission fluid i checked the level and it was clearly below the lower mark on the dip stick..
thanks
mars.
I changed the transmission fluid ( basically i drained it and refilled up to 3 Quarts). When i drained it only half gallon came out.
When i checked the level using the dip stick it was clearly above the high mark..
Is overfilling causes any problems ?? ( i guess i might have put close to 1 quart extra)...
Before changing the transmission fluid i checked the level and it was clearly below the lower mark on the dip stick..
thanks
mars.
#2
Pro
You should always consult your owners manual to see how much you need to add. With that being said I believe you need anywhere from 2.6-2.8 quarts. Filling it with 3 quarts should be ok. I have been doing it for years in my Accords without any problems. Not sure if it applies to newer transmissions but I wouldn't see an issue with it.
Did you also clean the metal shavings off of the drain bolt and put on a new crush washer?
Did you also clean the metal shavings off of the drain bolt and put on a new crush washer?
#3
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Location: VA
Age: 48
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You should always consult your owners manual to see how much you need to add. With that being said I believe you need anywhere from 2.6-2.8 quarts. Filling it with 3 quarts should be ok. I have been doing it for years in my Accords without any problems. Not sure if it applies to newer transmissions but I wouldn't see an issue with it.
Did you also clean the metal shavings off of the drain bolt and put on a new crush washer?
Did you also clean the metal shavings off of the drain bolt and put on a new crush washer?
Thanks a lot for your response.. Yes i have cleaned the metal dust that was accumulated on the drain bolt..
How ever i used the same crush washer !! ( It looked fine !!).
The transmission fluid when i drained was not black completely . it has the red tinge so i guess it wasn't as bad as i expected..I am not sure whether i will go through the 3 cycle which many of the members suggested..
If i had to change the crush washer may be i will do another drain over the weekend..Is it really crucial ??
Really appreciate your response..
Thanks
mars
#4
Pro
What the crush washer does is fills in any of the imperfections both the drain bolt and the housing have to make a tight seal. The problem is once it is crushed it won't form a good seal the next time. You may have a leak maybe not now but possibly down the road. It's up to you if you want to chance it or not; personally for $12 in transmission fluid I would do it again. Wait a few days though so that the new fluid you put in there mixes well and drain it.
You only really have to do a drain and fill unless your transmission fluid has turned brown and shows no sign of a reddish color.
You only really have to do a drain and fill unless your transmission fluid has turned brown and shows no sign of a reddish color.
#5
Make a hole, coming thru!
Related question ... I just had my B 1 2 service done, and the manuals recommended 5AT tranny fluid changed if driven in "severe" conditions. Which were generally described as overly hot year-round weather or up and down steep hills, towing etc. Otherwise ... 80K (or was it 100K?).
Is there a consensus that this is too conservative?
Is there a consensus that this is too conservative?
#6
Pro
Related question ... I just had my B 1 2 service done, and the manuals recommended 5AT tranny fluid changed if driven in "severe" conditions. Which were generally described as overly hot year-round weather or up and down steep hills, towing etc. Otherwise ... 80K (or was it 100K?).
Is there a consensus that this is too conservative?
Is there a consensus that this is too conservative?
Before the MM system was introduced I would change my fluid every 30k miles in my Accords. Every time I did a drain and fill the fluid looked almost new so going 60-100k miles on the same fluid doesn't see out of the question. I would just check it from time to time to make sure it doesn't smell burnt or has turned brown.
In Hyundai's the fluid turns brown soon after the fluid change, but on a Honda it should always be red.
#7
Make a hole, coming thru!
The 2005 manual (p. 194) says to do the 5AT fluid at 120,000 or 6 years, then every 90,000/5 years thereafter. The severe conditions[1] schedule says to do it at 60,000/3 years, then every 30,000/2 years thereafter.
[1]
The 2007 manual lists it under B3, yes, but at 60,000 miles if driving at low speeds in mountainous terrain.
So I'm getting the consensus that normal driving in most of the United States would not be "severe," requiring the 5AT fluid to be changed earlier than 90,000. Thanks!
[1]
Extensive idling or long periods of
stop and go driving, such as a taxi or
a commercial delivery vehicle.
Driving less than 5 miles (8 km) per
trip or, in freezing temperatures,
driving less than 10 miles (16 km)
per trip.
Driving in extremely hot [over 90°F
(32°C)] conditions.
Trailer towing, driving with a roof
rack, or driving in mountainous
conditions.
stop and go driving, such as a taxi or
a commercial delivery vehicle.
Driving less than 5 miles (8 km) per
trip or, in freezing temperatures,
driving less than 10 miles (16 km)
per trip.
Driving in extremely hot [over 90°F
(32°C)] conditions.
Trailer towing, driving with a roof
rack, or driving in mountainous
conditions.
So I'm getting the consensus that normal driving in most of the United States would not be "severe," requiring the 5AT fluid to be changed earlier than 90,000. Thanks!
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