chumley

Anyone change their rear wheel bearing and care to give a few tips/pointers on what to watch out for. Do I need a shop manual or is the replacement procedure obvious. Any special tools required? Anyone have a pic or blowup of the parts involved? Aftermarket Timken part versus OEM? Thanks.

davieo23

I need to do the same thing. Acura sells a complete wheel hub assy and not just a bearing.

Anyone out there done this in the past?

curls

I can't comment on the specifics of this job on this car, but its likely that the replacement aftermarket bearing is a press-in type, so you'd have to remove the rear hub assembly, bring it to a shop, slip the guy a few bucks and have him press out the old one and press in the new one.

As for the Timken part, they are quality parts. I would not hesitate to run them in my car. Plenty of good experiences w/ their parts in the past, and my 'parts guy' swears by them -- never has customers complaining about them.

poltergeist

The rear hub/bearing comes as an assembly. A relatively easy r&r once you get the rear caliper and rotor off. Four bolts thru the knuckle hold the hub on. No press required on the rear, only on the fronts.

chumley

Can someone with a manual kindly supply the torque setting for the bearing nut. Is a new bearing nut required or recommended.

poltergeist

There is no "bearing nut", there are 4 hub/bearing mounting bolts. There is no mention of them being one time use bolts in the S/M. Their torque spec is 47lb/ft. You are supposed to replace the o-ring between the hub/bearing and the knuckle, but I'm not sure there's a need to if the original one is undamaged.

chumley

Thanks for your reply. Assume the o-ring is just a seal for the splash guard?

poltergeist

I believe the o ring is there to keep water out of the back of the bearing.

kvan2007

FWIW, I did this about six or eight weeks ago. It was a bit of a PITA, but it's because I had shoulder surgery earlier this year and still lack full strength in my left shoulder. Aside from the need of brute force, the job itself was straightforward. I recommend an impact screwdriver for the rotor retaining screws (mine were pretty rusted in), a little Deep Creep or WD40 for the stuck-on bolts, and some Aleve for the next day. I paid for access to the Helms manual, though the instructions were not terribly clear. I ended up accidentally unscrewing the brake fluid line, because I could not tell from the instructions which little 12 mm bolt I needed to loosen. Oy. At any rate, it's the lug nuts, two rotor screws, two caliper bolts, and four bearing bolts that have to be removed and re-tightened.

I could not fit my torque wrench in the space, so I tightened them as best I could, using the wrench and my mallet, and then I had them torqued by the Honda dealer when I had the brake fluid flushed a few days later. I ordered mine through Hondapartsnow.com. They are pretty cool.

If you need any pointers, let me know. I was going to do a DIY, but it turns out that it takes me three times as long as it should to do something. LOL.