Problem....
#1
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Problem....
Well first of all i like to say that recently ive been getting alot of problems with this car. I meant dont get me wrong its an amazing car but some of it can be better. For example, sometimes when im in a long line, or heavy traffic on the freeway my car just intends to just stop running the engine. And i dont know if it just the battery that died or crashed for just a second but it really has been bugging me lately.
This has happened to me more than 5 times already. Usually when it dies im in drive and just there standing still. I dont know if Honda just made a shitty battery to the Acura or if something is really terribly wrong with my car.
Any Ideas?
This has happened to me more than 5 times already. Usually when it dies im in drive and just there standing still. I dont know if Honda just made a shitty battery to the Acura or if something is really terribly wrong with my car.
Any Ideas?
#4
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Its a AT.
It basically just shuts down while im still in drive.
It only shuts down when im like in heavy traffic or im in a super long line.
It never shuts down when im going faster then 20 mph.
Just when im going super slow.
It basically just shuts down while im still in drive.
It only shuts down when im like in heavy traffic or im in a super long line.
It never shuts down when im going faster then 20 mph.
Just when im going super slow.
#6
Originally Posted by paranode
Take it to the dealer and get if fixed!
#7
Definitely something is wrong. Could be a simple sensor like an Idle Control Speed sensor, etc. Or something similar.
What year is your car? Miles? Do you still have the factory warranty left? If so take it to the dealer to get it fixed.
What year is your car? Miles? Do you still have the factory warranty left? If so take it to the dealer to get it fixed.
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#8
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2006 Acura TSX 5 AT w/Navi PWP
Miles= 4,425
I still have warranty and im going to take it to the dealership tomorrow and i know if they fix it even though im under warranty they are still going to charge. Theyll say w.e excuse to makke us pay even though were under warranty.
Miles= 4,425
I still have warranty and im going to take it to the dealership tomorrow and i know if they fix it even though im under warranty they are still going to charge. Theyll say w.e excuse to makke us pay even though were under warranty.
#10
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Nah haha i got it all taken care of im a big 17 year old lol. Im mature enough. I just dont know why it does this and i know alot of people has had the same problem. And i dunno why Acura will sell a 30,000 car to a person with a shitty battery.
#11
Originally Posted by ttefabian
2006 Acura TSX 5 AT w/Navi PWP
Miles= 4,425
I still have warranty and im going to take it to the dealership tomorrow and i know if they fix it even though im under warranty they are still going to charge. Theyll say w.e excuse to makke us pay even though were under warranty.
Miles= 4,425
I still have warranty and im going to take it to the dealership tomorrow and i know if they fix it even though im under warranty they are still going to charge. Theyll say w.e excuse to makke us pay even though were under warranty.
Try dealing with any of the big (suckass) 3 and you will see what I mean.
#13
They CANNOT charge you for anything if you are under warrenty. You have a brand new 2006. Go in there VERY disappointed and you will be taken care of.
4 years ago I bought a brand new 2002 Toyota Highlander. Brought it in a week later to have the factory alarm get installed. Waited 6 hours, they finally installed it. When I got home the rear window did not roll down or the blinker did not work. I checked the bulb it was fine.
So I knew they fucked something up installing the alarm. I went in the next day raising hell cuz those monkeys cant even install a simple factory toyota alarm. I demanded a rental car. I was not going to wait a single hour or even 20 minutes. They got the highest paid tech to work on my car sooo fast and I was out of there within 15 minutes. They fried a relay under the drivers side dash. 100% dealers fault.
Car has been rock solid. 75k miles and 0 problems.
No dealership is perfect. I dont trust them either.
Let us know if they fix the problem!
4 years ago I bought a brand new 2002 Toyota Highlander. Brought it in a week later to have the factory alarm get installed. Waited 6 hours, they finally installed it. When I got home the rear window did not roll down or the blinker did not work. I checked the bulb it was fine.
So I knew they fucked something up installing the alarm. I went in the next day raising hell cuz those monkeys cant even install a simple factory toyota alarm. I demanded a rental car. I was not going to wait a single hour or even 20 minutes. They got the highest paid tech to work on my car sooo fast and I was out of there within 15 minutes. They fried a relay under the drivers side dash. 100% dealers fault.
Car has been rock solid. 75k miles and 0 problems.
No dealership is perfect. I dont trust them either.
Let us know if they fix the problem!
#14
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Well they obviously said there going to charge me to get my oil changed so i expect them to charge me for this problem.
And if its gonna cost more to fix the battery or w.e ill just simply buy a battery that wont have this problem again.
And if its gonna cost more to fix the battery or w.e ill just simply buy a battery that wont have this problem again.
#15
Originally Posted by ttefabian
Well they obviously said there going to charge me to get my oil changed so i expect them to charge me for this problem.
And if its gonna cost more to fix the battery or w.e ill just simply buy a battery that wont have this problem again.
And if its gonna cost more to fix the battery or w.e ill just simply buy a battery that wont have this problem again.
My advice is have them fix the stalling issue first. Dont go in for the oil change because they will change the oil and most likely WONT fix the stalling issue. They will probably say, "cannot duplicate the problem".
Have them just fix the stalling issue so they can focus on that.
#16
Deep Breath...... they will charge you for an oil change because this is the customers responsability. Maintenance is not included in Acuras or Hondas.
If your battery fails anytime in the first 4 years or 50,000 miles, it will be replaced for free.
I don't know where you base your assumption that "I just dont know why it does this and i know alot of people has had the same problem." because I haven't heard of it and we have TONS of traffic here.
My thoughts are Idle Speed Control (ISC), Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT), or the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. OR it could just be some bad gas. Regardless, it is a warranty issue and unless you've modded the car (and forgot to tell us) you shouldn't be charged anything.
If your battery fails anytime in the first 4 years or 50,000 miles, it will be replaced for free.
I don't know where you base your assumption that "I just dont know why it does this and i know alot of people has had the same problem." because I haven't heard of it and we have TONS of traffic here.
My thoughts are Idle Speed Control (ISC), Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT), or the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. OR it could just be some bad gas. Regardless, it is a warranty issue and unless you've modded the car (and forgot to tell us) you shouldn't be charged anything.
#18
my acura sanctuary
It might be too late before someone can respond to my question, but can some Mechanically inclined gear head explain how much is being drawn from the battery when the engine is running? I am not a gearhead but my intuition is telling me that a car will not stall while running because of a low charged/bad battery--it might not start, but shouldn't cause stalling. I think asking the dealership for a new battery might show a bit a naivety, which you might not want to display, because regardless of how much of a "big boy" you are, going in young and hot headed might not get you the results you desire. Colin mentioned a bunch of possible causes that seem more believable. but that is just because I'm no gear head (unfortunately).
I hope you get your problem resolved really quickly.
I hope you get your problem resolved really quickly.
#20
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Originally Posted by pedalbikeplus
It might be too late before someone can respond to my question, but can some Mechanically inclined gear head explain how much is being drawn from the battery when the engine is running? I am not a gearhead but my intuition is telling me that a car will not stall while running because of a low charged/bad battery--it might not start, but shouldn't cause stalling. I think asking the dealership for a new battery might show a bit a naivety, which you might not want to display, because regardless of how much of a "big boy" you are, going in young and hot headed might not get you the results you desire. Colin mentioned a bunch of possible causes that seem more believable. but that is just because I'm no gear head (unfortunately).
I hope you get your problem resolved really quickly.
I hope you get your problem resolved really quickly.
#22
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Originally Posted by gsrthomas
So I knew they fucked something up installing the alarm. I went in the next day raising hell cuz those monkeys cant even install a simple factory toyota alarm. I demanded a rental car. I was not going to wait a single hour or even 20 minutes. They got the highest paid tech to work on my car sooo fast and I was out of there within 15 minutes. They fried a relay under the drivers side dash. 100% dealers fault.
I've switched to a new dealership now, especially since the people who work in the old one would also drive like maniacs in the cars they were fixing (the honda pilot was pretty good jumping curbs at high speeds)
#23
Originally Posted by JTso
Once the engine is started, the alternator provides all running electricity including charging the battery. I'm suspecting problem in the fuel system as he didn't mention any CEL. What it sounds like is the engine had stalled and it can be caused by many other reasons.
Of course I doubt this is ttefabian's problem since he mentioned no need to jump start the car.
#24
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Originally Posted by ttefabian
The only thing ive done to the car is a 35 % tint and thats it.
Listen to what Colin said. What you are experiencing is definitely a warranty issue. It should not cost you one cent to have it checked and repaired. Oil changes are a completely seperate issue. If you take it in and get both taken care of you should only be charged for the oil change. Maybe its a hiccup in the ECU code.
#25
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I drove my parents' '04 Sebring for a while when it was new, and it would stall on me while in traffic too. It would just stop all of a sudden and it was really scary (people behind me were understandably pissed if a light turned green!). I took it back to the dealer and they reflashed the software and then it was fine.
#26
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Originally Posted by ttefabian
Nah haha i got it all taken care of im a big 17 year old lol. Im mature enough. I just dont know why it does this and i know alot of people has had the same problem. And i dunno why Acura will sell a 30,000 car to a person with a shitty battery.
Originally Posted by ttefabian
The only thing ive done to the car is a 35 % tint and thats it.
GSRTHOMAS are you saying they can give me a new car? or a new battery?
GSRTHOMAS are you saying they can give me a new car? or a new battery?
#27
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Originally Posted by JTso
Once the engine is started, the alternator provides all running electricity including charging the battery. I'm suspecting problem in the fuel system as he didn't mention any CEL. What it sounds like is the engine had stalled and it can be caused by many other reasons.
I thought below a certain rpm (that is not enough to let the alternator provide enough electricity) the car still draws from the battery?
I'm asking because I had an experience where the battery was totally dead, we jump started it, and drove it back (soley on alternator at this point), but then it would die at an intersection when the rpm drops below a certain point during idle.... (but at this same rpm the car wouldn't die when the battery is good)...
#28
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Originally Posted by supraken
I thought below a certain rpm (that is not enough to let the alternator provide enough electricity) the car still draws from the battery?
I'm asking because I had an experience where the battery was totally dead, we jump started it, and drove it back (soley on alternator at this point), but then it would die at an intersection when the rpm drops below a certain point during idle.... (but at this same rpm the car wouldn't die when the battery is good)...
I'm asking because I had an experience where the battery was totally dead, we jump started it, and drove it back (soley on alternator at this point), but then it would die at an intersection when the rpm drops below a certain point during idle.... (but at this same rpm the car wouldn't die when the battery is good)...
Btw, I did this experiment long time ago with an older car. I disconnected the battery after the engine has started and quickly connected the two battery terminals together to complete the circuit. The engine kept on running without the battery. But don't try this at home!
#29
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Ok so this is what happened.
I went to the dealer today at 8 am in the morning. They came up to me and they asked me what was the problem with your car and i said My car has just recently been stalling alot when im idle when only there is heavy traffic and i always have to restart my car. So i was waiting there for 2 hours and they ran many test, test drove my car, etc. And they said there was nothing wrong with my car and they said its normal for this to happen. I was like WHAT! are you serious. Hes like yes TSX has been having many issues with the battery problems and i dont know if they are going to recall all the TSX to replace them with a new battery. Im like mkay... so howd all the test showed up. He basically said it all went good, levels were good and etc. So basically i guess it is normal for a car to stop like that. They said they can really figure out the problem if you leave the car for a whole at the dealership so we can run more test.
I went to the dealer today at 8 am in the morning. They came up to me and they asked me what was the problem with your car and i said My car has just recently been stalling alot when im idle when only there is heavy traffic and i always have to restart my car. So i was waiting there for 2 hours and they ran many test, test drove my car, etc. And they said there was nothing wrong with my car and they said its normal for this to happen. I was like WHAT! are you serious. Hes like yes TSX has been having many issues with the battery problems and i dont know if they are going to recall all the TSX to replace them with a new battery. Im like mkay... so howd all the test showed up. He basically said it all went good, levels were good and etc. So basically i guess it is normal for a car to stop like that. They said they can really figure out the problem if you leave the car for a whole at the dealership so we can run more test.
#30
>> So basically i guess it is normal for a car to stop like that.
who says this ? you or he ?
I knew that was as good as it's gonna get for you.
all this waiting and test-driving and they gave you that
I tried to warn you, BIG boy lol
who says this ? you or he ?
I knew that was as good as it's gonna get for you.
all this waiting and test-driving and they gave you that
I tried to warn you, BIG boy lol
#31
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The guy who helped me at the Acura dealership.
I dunno i thought it was total bs. But w.e
Maybe we should all just take our cars and say that there battery is messed up and a recall would happen hahaha
just for me?
haha
I dunno i thought it was total bs. But w.e
Maybe we should all just take our cars and say that there battery is messed up and a recall would happen hahaha
just for me?
haha
#32
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What complete BS.
Take it back to the dealer as soon as possible and DEMAND a proper diagnosis and fix. To state the obvious: a brand new 30 thousand dollar car should not be stalling on its own - they are hoping you will fall for their weak excuses and go away. Take it back, hand them the keys, ask for a rental, and be on your way.
If none of that works, ask to speak to the service manager. If that doesn't work, ask the service manager who his boss is, get his/her phone number and call them up. Escalate the situation step by step and eventually something will happen.
Take it back to the dealer as soon as possible and DEMAND a proper diagnosis and fix. To state the obvious: a brand new 30 thousand dollar car should not be stalling on its own - they are hoping you will fall for their weak excuses and go away. Take it back, hand them the keys, ask for a rental, and be on your way.
If none of that works, ask to speak to the service manager. If that doesn't work, ask the service manager who his boss is, get his/her phone number and call them up. Escalate the situation step by step and eventually something will happen.
#34
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So they didn't try a reflash? That's what fixed my parents' Sebring when it was doing the same thing. They said the software needed updating.
And you're the first person I've heard of having a problem with a TSX stalling, so I don't know about that battery recall. Try the reflash, that's my advice. If that doesn't work, take it to another dealer.
And you're the first person I've heard of having a problem with a TSX stalling, so I don't know about that battery recall. Try the reflash, that's my advice. If that doesn't work, take it to another dealer.
#35
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I'd try a different dealer if there's one nearby. A brand new car should be running like a brand new car. That's a big reason why people buy new cars, the warranty...
"And they said there was nothing wrong with my car and they said its normal for this to happen"
No excuse for any dealer excuses on an '06. End of story, buh bye!
"And they said there was nothing wrong with my car and they said its normal for this to happen"
No excuse for any dealer excuses on an '06. End of story, buh bye!
#36
Originally Posted by BulldogHockey
I'd try a different dealer if there's one nearby...
ummm ...that's EXACTLY what that service rep wanted - to get his ass GTFO -
his practically just rolled out of the dealer,
stick with the one you bought from !
#37
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Next time it dies, use the acura roadside assistance and get the car towed back to the dealer. Then tell them it stalled and to fix it. I'm guessing that if there was really soemthing wrong witht he car, you would not have had it towed and they would be more inclined to do some proper diagnostic on the car.
Sorry to hear your trouble...maybe spending a few bucks to get the electrical system checked out by a good independant mech might help.
Sorry to hear your trouble...maybe spending a few bucks to get the electrical system checked out by a good independant mech might help.
#38
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While I agree the dealer needs to fix this car, I would at least try a different battery like an Optima and see if that helps any. At least you yourself can elminate the battery being the problem if it happens again. Then it would probably point to electrical.
Oh, and maybe its time to call Acura Client Services 800-382-2238
Oh, and maybe its time to call Acura Client Services 800-382-2238
#39
dude, we know your a big boy and all, but 90% of the service reps will treat you like dirt because of your age.
they really think your gullible, and you are if u believe the service tech that its normal
they would not given that answer to your parents, who bought the car i presume.
let your dad or mom take the car there and then see what they do.
DEMAND that they not only fix the problem for you but they also supply you with a rental (you might be too young, but they will give one to your parents). Dont talk to the service reps, go straight to the manager.
they really think your gullible, and you are if u believe the service tech that its normal
they would not given that answer to your parents, who bought the car i presume.
let your dad or mom take the car there and then see what they do.
DEMAND that they not only fix the problem for you but they also supply you with a rental (you might be too young, but they will give one to your parents). Dont talk to the service reps, go straight to the manager.
#40
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Originally Posted by JTso
You are correct and it would be different if the battery is totally dead. Normally, when the engine is spinning at idle ~750 rpm, the alternator outputs ~ 12.5v to keep the engine running (the output is higher with higher rpm but will stop going up at a certain point). Basically keeping the main relay engergized to drive the fuel pump, ECU, ignition coils and power to the misc sensors. The basic vitals to sustain running on its own. However, if the rpm is so low that the alternator couldn't provide the required voltage and the battery is also dead, then the engine would stall. The battery is kind of an auxiliary power once the engine is started.
Btw, I did this experiment long time ago with an older car. I disconnected the battery after the engine has started and quickly connected the two battery terminals together to complete the circuit. The engine kept on running without the battery. But don't try this at home!
Btw, I did this experiment long time ago with an older car. I disconnected the battery after the engine has started and quickly connected the two battery terminals together to complete the circuit. The engine kept on running without the battery. But don't try this at home!
ahh ok... thanks for clarifying