F (6 & 10), R (3 & 4) - Tire thread depth
#1
F (6 & 10), R (3 & 4) - Tire thread depth
Hello,
I'm just curious to know your opinion on this. Due to flat tire issues I have currently ended up with front tires with 6/32" and 11/32" (new) thread depth and rare tires with 3/32" & 4/32".
Do you guys recommend replacing 3 tires?
I live Boise ID, summers are pretty hot, goes to 100F and there is lot of rain and icy roads in winter.
Thanks in advance.
I'm just curious to know your opinion on this. Due to flat tire issues I have currently ended up with front tires with 6/32" and 11/32" (new) thread depth and rare tires with 3/32" & 4/32".
Do you guys recommend replacing 3 tires?
I live Boise ID, summers are pretty hot, goes to 100F and there is lot of rain and icy roads in winter.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Let me help you!
You should always replace tires by axles (either both rear tires, both front tires, or all 4 tires). If you replace only one side, the car might not behave predictably.
I would replace the rear tires first. You can still put more miles on the front tires. Legally you can drive the tires until 2/32". However, if you think it'll rain soon (or you'll drive through water puddles), you might want to replace the front tires once it reaches 4/32".
I would replace the rear tires first. You can still put more miles on the front tires. Legally you can drive the tires until 2/32". However, if you think it'll rain soon (or you'll drive through water puddles), you might want to replace the front tires once it reaches 4/32".
#3
in the 24th and a half...
Also, counter-intuitively to some, you always want your best tires on the rear in a front wheel drive car if any of the tires are somewhat worn. The reasoning is that if the rears start losing traction in a turn, you get oversteer...when the fronts lose traction in a turn, you get understeer. In the overall scheme of things, understeer is the best choice, and is actually how most manufacturers set-up their vehicles.
Think of it as either having to dial in a little more steering angle in a turn to keep where you want to be (understeer) because you are dirfting a bit wide or having to unwind the steering in the turn (oversteer) to keep from driving deeper into the turn.
Secondly, at and below 4/32", you have weak response in wet conditions, braking distances can increase by up to 50-60% over new ( http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...ay.jsp?ttid=85). I would replace three tires now and keep the 6/32" tire as an in the garage spare.
Think of it as either having to dial in a little more steering angle in a turn to keep where you want to be (understeer) because you are dirfting a bit wide or having to unwind the steering in the turn (oversteer) to keep from driving deeper into the turn.
Secondly, at and below 4/32", you have weak response in wet conditions, braking distances can increase by up to 50-60% over new ( http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...ay.jsp?ttid=85). I would replace three tires now and keep the 6/32" tire as an in the garage spare.
#4
Thanks SoCaliTrojan and DuckDodgers.
DuckDodgers, as per your suggestion, I'll keep 6/32" in the garage and buy another 3 tires. I'm getting $70 off on Michelin, which helps.
DuckDodgers, as per your suggestion, I'll keep 6/32" in the garage and buy another 3 tires. I'm getting $70 off on Michelin, which helps.
#5
Burning Brakes
duck is partly right.
You want your 2 best tire in the rear for any kind of drive train except 4WD/AWD as all 4 are replaced at the same time. But this only applies to when you are purchasing 2 new tires.
But if your not replacing any tire, you just keep them as they are and rotate them every 5,000 mile. other wise you dont rotate your tire to follow this 2 best in the rear and i guarntee you'll void your tire waranty. as tire warranty requires you show evidence that you do take care of them by doing your tire rotation & balancing every 5K mile and alignment every 6k or 6mo which ever comes first.
Michellin was the first to start this 2 best tire in the rear WHEN BUYING 2 NEW TIRE campaign as they got sued up their ass and lost a ton of money.
So:
1. when buying two new tire .. toss em in the rear regardless if its rear or front wheel drive. AWD requires you to change ALL tire at the same time so you dont mess up the drive train.
2. rotate, balance, and align your car regularly. i'd go 5k since you gotta rotate and balance every 5K mi ... might as well do the alignment too since you'll be in a shop anyways.
You want your 2 best tire in the rear for any kind of drive train except 4WD/AWD as all 4 are replaced at the same time. But this only applies to when you are purchasing 2 new tires.
But if your not replacing any tire, you just keep them as they are and rotate them every 5,000 mile. other wise you dont rotate your tire to follow this 2 best in the rear and i guarntee you'll void your tire waranty. as tire warranty requires you show evidence that you do take care of them by doing your tire rotation & balancing every 5K mile and alignment every 6k or 6mo which ever comes first.
Michellin was the first to start this 2 best tire in the rear WHEN BUYING 2 NEW TIRE campaign as they got sued up their ass and lost a ton of money.
So:
1. when buying two new tire .. toss em in the rear regardless if its rear or front wheel drive. AWD requires you to change ALL tire at the same time so you dont mess up the drive train.
2. rotate, balance, and align your car regularly. i'd go 5k since you gotta rotate and balance every 5K mi ... might as well do the alignment too since you'll be in a shop anyways.
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