UR Ultra SS: Underdrive Pulley Sets (Comming Soon)
#1
Polar Chicken
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UR Ultra SS: Underdrive Pulley Sets (Comming Soon)
I have been discussing this with Unorthodox Racing and it looks like a SS kit will be forthcomming. Based on my research in the RSX and Accord forms this seems to be a good buy as the gains are similar to what is seen with the addition of a CAI. Not sure if UR will provide dyno numbers or not but is anybody else intrested in this?
Segment of my conversation with UR:
You are correct, the RSX pulley will fit on the TSX but we are still waiting to collect the data in regards to the sustained voltage required for normal operation. The kit must be used in a complete set to maintain proper function of the accessories. We will have more information with in the next month, which will give you the answer you are looking for.
Segment of my conversation with UR:
You are correct, the RSX pulley will fit on the TSX but we are still waiting to collect the data in regards to the sustained voltage required for normal operation. The kit must be used in a complete set to maintain proper function of the accessories. We will have more information with in the next month, which will give you the answer you are looking for.
#3
Polar Chicken
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That is why UR test to see what the required sustained voltage is before kits are released. My only concern would be the alternator as I run a heavy draw with my Amps but that could be fixed with a CAP.
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Originally Posted by Zasker1
Based on my research in the RSX and Accord forms this seems to be a good buy as the gains are similar to what is seen with the addition of a CAI.
But of all the mods I made on my previous Accord, the UR pulley set was one of the best mods, after the flywheel. No sacrifices (not supposed to be: if you have problems with electrical system, it means your pulley set is ), just improvement.
UR is a little costly for the bang though.
#5
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I am plannning on installing an Injen CAI and DC Header this weekend or next. Exhaust seems to be a waist on the TSX from the dyno's I have seen so the UR seems the next logical choice
#6
Originally Posted by Dan Martin
I'm not a big fan of the whole underdrive pulley idea. I value my A/C, power steering, and alternator.
i can't for someone to make cams and hondata. those will be my next two mods, if any.
:troutslap
#7
Originally Posted by sauceman
Don't expect so much gains. Yes there are some, but they are not, or very barely noticeable. And you will notice, much like a flywheel, mostly a rev-happier engine, better transmition of torque but little to no hp gains.
But of all the mods I made on my previous Accord, the UR pulley set was one of the best mods, after the flywheel. No sacrifices (not supposed to be: if you have problems with electrical system, it means your pulley set is ), just improvement.
UR is a little costly for the bang though.
But of all the mods I made on my previous Accord, the UR pulley set was one of the best mods, after the flywheel. No sacrifices (not supposed to be: if you have problems with electrical system, it means your pulley set is ), just improvement.
UR is a little costly for the bang though.
Wow, that's the exact opposite from my experience with UR. I had a set of my previous car and I gained 19 whp on the dyno.
~20 hp for $300 is a GREAT VALUE I think!
Hopefully the gains are similar in the TSX. UR makes great quality pullies. Way better than AEM or any other company out there.
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Originally Posted by loxllxol
Wow, that's the exact opposite from my experience with UR. I had a set of my previous car and I gained 19 whp on the dyno.
~20 hp for $300 is a GREAT VALUE I think!
Hopefully the gains are similar in the TSX. UR makes great quality pullies. Way better than AEM or any other company out there.
~20 hp for $300 is a GREAT VALUE I think!
Hopefully the gains are similar in the TSX. UR makes great quality pullies. Way better than AEM or any other company out there.
BTW, I forgot to say, I decided not to use the crank pulley, as I would have lost the harmonic dampener, and had heard too many accounts of people who had cracked or downright broken their crankshafts after time. It wasn't a risk I was ready to take, given the mileage I travel.
#10
Originally Posted by sauceman
What car did you have?
BTW, I forgot to say, I decided not to use the crank pulley, as I would have lost the harmonic dampener, and had heard too many accounts of people who had cracked or downright broken their crankshafts after time. It wasn't a risk I was ready to take, given the mileage I travel.
BTW, I forgot to say, I decided not to use the crank pulley, as I would have lost the harmonic dampener, and had heard too many accounts of people who had cracked or downright broken their crankshafts after time. It wasn't a risk I was ready to take, given the mileage I travel.
he had an accord v6 before- if that's the same car he's talking about is beyond me.
#12
Originally Posted by dzuy
i know. i never heard of a car gaining 19hp to the wheels.
he had an accord v6 before- if that's the same car he's talking about is beyond me.
he had an accord v6 before- if that's the same car he's talking about is beyond me.
Here we go. You guys satisfied now? UR Pullies are definitely worth the money if you're in it for performance.
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Nevertheless, you don't expect that kind of gains with a 4 cyl, far from it.
I remember seeing a Mustang dyno with that mod, and even a Mustang didn't exceed 5 whp gain.
There really is something fishy with that dyno.
I remember seeing a Mustang dyno with that mod, and even a Mustang didn't exceed 5 whp gain.
There really is something fishy with that dyno.
#15
Originally Posted by loxllxol
Wow, that's the exact opposite from my experience with UR. I had a set of my previous car and I gained 19 whp on the dyno.....
#16
Photography Nerd
What is the total power drain for all the accessories driven by the engine? 20hp seems way too high for just slowing down the speed that they run at. I think you'd need to remove accessories to be able to save that kind of power.
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Originally Posted by Dan Martin
What is the total power drain for all the accessories driven by the engine? 20hp seems way too high for just slowing down the speed that they run at. I think you'd need to remove accessories to be able to save that kind of power.
They didn't put the belts back on before the Dyno run!
#18
Originally Posted by Dan Martin
What is the total power drain for all the accessories driven by the engine? 20hp seems way too high for just slowing down the speed that they run at. I think you'd need to remove accessories to be able to save that kind of power.
And guys, I don't work for UR, nor am I sponsored by them. I'm just giving your factual evidence from my experience. I have absolutely nothing to gain by telling you guys what my car (and others as well) have dynoed.
The difference really is like night and day. I was skeptical at first as well, but as soon as I installed the pullies, there was no doubt in my mind! Hey, when I first read about the comptech sway bar, I was SKEPTICAL that a lil bitty old bar can change the driving characteristics so much, but again, I was wrong! The sway bar works great, and if the same gains are similar in the TSX as they were in the Accord V6, then you guys will believe me.
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No they won't be, they haven't been in my F22B1 Accord a few years ago, no reason why they should be significantly better on the TSX now.
I swear, you ran that dyno beltless.
I swear, you ran that dyno beltless.
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I don't really understand how getting pulleys can affect the A/C, Alternatior, etc... I don't really know much about swapping pulley and gaining performance, but I don't see how just changing them can effect the other units the belt and pulley are attached to.
#22
Polar Chicken
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The effects them as the pully wheels are typicaly smaller thus they turn slower. So for teh Alternatior at idle you are not sustaninging the same voltage to your electrical system as stock. (Not a problem while driving). Likewise for the AC system is being under driven as well, agian this is realy more of an issue at idle.
I am not so worried about eh A/C, or power steering but the Alternatior could be a problem as I have an upgraded stereo system thus I am drawing more current.
I am not so worried about eh A/C, or power steering but the Alternatior could be a problem as I have an upgraded stereo system thus I am drawing more current.
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Yeah, he got it wrong. It's the other way around. Accessory pullies are larger diameter, and crank pulley is smaller diameter, resulting in a substantial underdrive.
They are usually cnc manufactured out of billet aluminum
A typical alternator pulley weighs > 400grams, and power steering pulley > 250 grams.
Big gains are to be made with the crank pulley, but with big risks too.
They are usually cnc manufactured out of billet aluminum
A typical alternator pulley weighs > 400grams, and power steering pulley > 250 grams.
Big gains are to be made with the crank pulley, but with big risks too.
#25
Originally Posted by sauceman
Yeah, he got it wrong. It's the other way around. Accessory pullies are larger diameter, and crank pulley is smaller diameter, resulting in a substantial underdrive.
They are usually cnc manufactured out of billet aluminum
A typical alternator pulley weighs > 400grams, and power steering pulley > 250 grams.
Big gains are to be made with the crank pulley, but with big risks too.
They are usually cnc manufactured out of billet aluminum
A typical alternator pulley weighs > 400grams, and power steering pulley > 250 grams.
Big gains are to be made with the crank pulley, but with big risks too.
What are the risks with the crank pulley? Isn't this similar to doing a flywheel mod?
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No. For some reason (and I'm not sure I get why) The crankshaft is only dampened on one end.Maybe it is because the FW, Clutch and transmition represent so much more mass that it is naturally dampenned with the centrifugal forces of all that rotating mass.
If you change crank pulleys, you positively need to know that you keep your OEM harmonic dampeners, because the "noise" from the internals will end up causing the crank to wear prematurely.
But then again, small 4 cylinders like D16s don't need harmonic dampeners.
It is similar though as the flywheel mod in that it will remove significant rotating mass, but it will also help underdrive the accessories: Accessories turning slower per RPM means less effort to make them turn = Torque and Hp gains!
If you change crank pulleys, you positively need to know that you keep your OEM harmonic dampeners, because the "noise" from the internals will end up causing the crank to wear prematurely.
But then again, small 4 cylinders like D16s don't need harmonic dampeners.
It is similar though as the flywheel mod in that it will remove significant rotating mass, but it will also help underdrive the accessories: Accessories turning slower per RPM means less effort to make them turn = Torque and Hp gains!
#28
Polar Chicken
Thread Starter
Update from UR:
I got confirmation this morning from Brice at Alamo that everything checks out as per our standards. I'm awaiting dyno graphs from Brice and they will be posted shortly after the new web-page goes up later this week.
When the Dyno is available, I will post.
I got confirmation this morning from Brice at Alamo that everything checks out as per our standards. I'm awaiting dyno graphs from Brice and they will be posted shortly after the new web-page goes up later this week.
When the Dyno is available, I will post.
#32
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Originally Posted by sauceman
No. For some reason (and I'm not sure I get why) The crankshaft is only dampened on one end.Maybe it is because the FW, Clutch and transmition represent so much more mass that it is naturally dampenned with the centrifugal forces of all that rotating mass.
If you change crank pulleys, you positively need to know that you keep your OEM harmonic dampeners, because the "noise" from the internals will end up causing the crank to wear prematurely.
But then again, small 4 cylinders like D16s don't need harmonic dampeners.
It is similar though as the flywheel mod in that it will remove significant rotating mass, but it will also help underdrive the accessories: Accessories turning slower per RPM means less effort to make them turn = Torque and Hp gains!
If you change crank pulleys, you positively need to know that you keep your OEM harmonic dampeners, because the "noise" from the internals will end up causing the crank to wear prematurely.
But then again, small 4 cylinders like D16s don't need harmonic dampeners.
It is similar though as the flywheel mod in that it will remove significant rotating mass, but it will also help underdrive the accessories: Accessories turning slower per RPM means less effort to make them turn = Torque and Hp gains!
Josh
Excelerate LLC
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Originally Posted by Excelerate
I am not in any way refuting your opinion on this matter but this so called harmonic dampener and premature wear on the crank is a theory and a theory ONLY! It has never been proven and there are sundry cars with the UR crank pulleys and UR lightweight pulleys on their car that have never suffered from this supposed premature wear. You can believe it and that is fine but don't state it as a fact b/c there are people who are new to the import scene who will take your word as fact when it is really not factual. There is no evidence of this claim. If anyone has any further questions about UR pulleys please PM me as I am a dealer for UR. And if anyone is in need of a Ultra SS set let me know.
Josh
Excelerate LLC
Josh
Excelerate LLC
When there are so many accounts of failures that all seem to be pointing to that particular part, the burden is upon YOU (or UR for that matter) to prove that particualr part isn't the troublemaker.
As for the acc. pulleys, as well as flywheel, you have found yourself your best ally with me. I have definitely loved those mods.
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any updates on these yet
#35
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Originally Posted by sauceman
Josh, I'm sorry, but when there are so many accounts of broken cranshafts after having installed the pulley, cannot ignore those occurances. Crankshafts just don't break for the fun of it. This thread was pretty revealing to me: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=319189
When there are so many accounts of failures that all seem to be pointing to that particular part, the burden is upon YOU (or UR for that matter) to prove that particualr part isn't the troublemaker.
As for the acc. pulleys, as well as flywheel, you have found yourself your best ally with me. I have definitely loved those mods.
When there are so many accounts of failures that all seem to be pointing to that particular part, the burden is upon YOU (or UR for that matter) to prove that particualr part isn't the troublemaker.
As for the acc. pulleys, as well as flywheel, you have found yourself your best ally with me. I have definitely loved those mods.
People are getting the pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on 90 degree V8 and V6 engines. The pulleys on most of the new import engines have a rubber ring incorporated into them like the dampers which is there for noise suppression from the A/C compressor, P/S pump and the alternator, What the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to passenger compartment noticeable noise and vibration. If you look at some of the pulleys on older imports there is no rubber to be found. I have samples of mostly Honda, An Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Ford, Chrysler 2.2L, 1.8L VW and a few others all with no rubber. The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to keep the crank from cracking which is not necessary on your engine. The pulleys have been out there running for over 5 years and there have been no complaints to us. There is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys, anyone saying anything bad has not actually tried the parts. You really have nothing to worry about. If you would
like to read more info on the subject, visit the FAQ section on our web site or you
can
contact me directly at
(631)-586-9525 Ext. 12
Joe ///M
I would have to say that there has been no proof that the UR pulleys actually cause damage. It is people speculating that they do.
Josh
Excelerate LLC
#36
Polar Chicken
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Team,
Its Out: http://www.unorthodoxracing.com
I wanted and have stated I would buy and than dyno this part but I will have to give it some more though as 2 acura dealerships have cautioned against this, while not objecting to a CAI, Exhaust, Header, etc
Its Out: http://www.unorthodoxracing.com
I wanted and have stated I would buy and than dyno this part but I will have to give it some more though as 2 acura dealerships have cautioned against this, while not objecting to a CAI, Exhaust, Header, etc
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Originally Posted by Excelerate
I have never seen one guy w/ a brokem crank b/c of installing a pulley. And I have seen only a few amount of ppl w/ problems after installing the UR crank pulleys. The problem you run into is that how do you know how well the person treated the car before and after putting on the pulleys. Who is to say it's not a lemon or car that has been highly abused? Usually all these posts are highly speculative.
Originally Posted by Excelerate
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to keep the crank from cracking which is not necessary on your engine.
The K24 is an even larger crankshaft with 99mm throws, and even though it is balanced using counter-rotating shafts, I would not be surprised they still require the harmonic dampeners.
Originally Posted by Excelerate
The pulleys have been out there running for over 5 years and there have been no complaints to us. There is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys, anyone saying anything bad has not actually tried the parts. You really have nothing to worry about.
Take for example gimpyaccord, who I'd compare to JTso somewhat to over here. No doubt the guy knows his business. He complained to UR about his problem, and guess what? He got the same BS letter that you got from them. Read it, it's in the thread I referred you to.
Another example here: http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/underdrive/pulley.shtml (good thing this link is still up)
It seems as though UR would expect that people would need to prove beyond a doubt that their crank pulley is harmful, while obviously these folks don't have the means, the methods and the equipment to do so. Until that they discard it as rumors. Which I think is wrong. The burden is on them to make sure, come up with tests and studies proving that their crank pulley isn't harmful in any way, be it on the crank, crank seals or oil pumps.
Originally Posted by Excelerate
I would have to say that there has been no proof that the UR pulleys actually cause damage. It is people speculating that they do.
As I said, the burden lies on UR to prove that the pulley is OK. Not the other way around. It's not third-world here with consumers being completely left to themselves.
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And Josh, I don't mean to shit on the products you sell. I am in business too, I make my living out of selling. But I will argue someone to the ground if I feel something is fishy with what they sell.
I am not shitting on UR's line either. Aside from the crank pulley, I think they're awesome products with great quality, and have bought the flywheel and accessory pullies from them. But I seriously doubt about their work ethics.
To me, the way they deal with their customers when they have complaints is , STFU and