Tanabe SMH full screen video --- 56K warning ---
#41
Originally Posted by JTso
I went out and tested the 1/4 mile with the GTech tonight. I did a few runs for warm up and they ranged from 15.35, 15.45 and 15.38. Then the last run it happened when I reved the engine a little higher while feathering the clutch...
Just right click and save target as.... Then play it on your computer.
Note the 0-60 time when the display blinked for a second. It displayed 6.36 which is pretty close to what I got earlier this morning with the scan tool @ 6.33. Then when it reached 1/4, it displayed 14.73 second @ 96.6 mph! I realize this device is not 100% accurate. I would be happy if it's even at 14.95.
Just right click and save target as.... Then play it on your computer.
Note the 0-60 time when the display blinked for a second. It displayed 6.36 which is pretty close to what I got earlier this morning with the scan tool @ 6.33. Then when it reached 1/4, it displayed 14.73 second @ 96.6 mph! I realize this device is not 100% accurate. I would be happy if it's even at 14.95.
#43
Originally Posted by DateTSX
Nice videos man. I like how the tach needle shoot up to red line so effortlessly. I'm gonna try that on my auto. I wonder why I never redline mines before.....
#44
Originally Posted by rmpage
The 5AT shift points top out at 7,000 RPM. The only time you can advance all the way to 7300 (or 7600 if you have the Hondata reflash) is if you are in sportshift mode.
I'm just scared if something happen to it if I redline it. I spend 15,000 miles pampering her. I dont 'think I ever went pass the 4,000 rpm mark before! I just hate to see something mess up later on. Haha some say I take care of my car more than my g/f
#45
Originally Posted by Xtremespeed2102
man, i wanna hear these things in person... we need another otown meet, with TSXs with exhaust
#46
Originally Posted by rmpage
Yeah, if it had been around when I was catback shopping I might have opted for it over the Fujitsubo.They look very similar (although I don't have a bodykit) and from what I can tell, the interior sound is nearly identical. ps. Congrats on a ~14 second 1/4 mile time!
heres a pic of mine without the body kit
#51
Originally Posted by JTso
I went out and tested the 1/4 mile with the GTech tonight. I did a few runs for warm up and they ranged from 15.35, 15.45 and 15.38. Then the last run it happened when I reved the engine a little higher while feathering the clutch...
Just right click and save target as.... Then play it on your computer.
Note the 0-60 time when the display blinked for a second. It displayed 6.36 which is pretty close to what I got earlier this morning with the scan tool @ 6.33. Then when it reached 1/4, it displayed 14.73 second @ 96.6 mph! I realize this device is not 100% accurate. I would be happy if it's even at 14.95.
Just right click and save target as.... Then play it on your computer.
Note the 0-60 time when the display blinked for a second. It displayed 6.36 which is pretty close to what I got earlier this morning with the scan tool @ 6.33. Then when it reached 1/4, it displayed 14.73 second @ 96.6 mph! I realize this device is not 100% accurate. I would be happy if it's even at 14.95.
#54
Originally Posted by rmpage
Something like this?
Originally Posted by sauceman
Awesome run Johnny! Get it validated at the track.
And don't be scared to do full throttle quick shifts. The car can and will handle it.
And don't be scared to do full throttle quick shifts. The car can and will handle it.
I've tried quick 1st to 2nd shift before, and it usually ends up grinding a little as it enters in second. Almost seems like the synchro is off or something... but I'll try it again.
Originally Posted by CJams
Sounds killer Johnny! 10:34? Does the wife know you were out playing that late or did you push the TSX out of the drive way again?
#55
Part 4: Dyno results!
Just got back from the dyno for some numbers...
This is a comparison with the big bored TB project (the last real gain). As you can see, there isn't much more peak gain but it's where the usable horsepower and torque that really matters. There is a spike near the end of the torque curve so the peak torque is not 170.77 (I wish) but more like 162.5 at 4300 rpm. I'm happy with the performance from the custom cat and Tanabe exhaust. The car really pulls and drives like a dream. Judging from the hp and tq curves, one might think I just got another Hondata reflash!
This is a comparison with the big bored TB project (the last real gain). As you can see, there isn't much more peak gain but it's where the usable horsepower and torque that really matters. There is a spike near the end of the torque curve so the peak torque is not 170.77 (I wish) but more like 162.5 at 4300 rpm. I'm happy with the performance from the custom cat and Tanabe exhaust. The car really pulls and drives like a dream. Judging from the hp and tq curves, one might think I just got another Hondata reflash!
#58
Originally Posted by CobaltForge
So JTso, how much did this setup cost you? And do you think the same gains could be gotten out of a different catback (GReddy, Comptech, Fuji) paired with a custom cat?
#60
Sorry, too many people didn't right click and save the file, and causing some bandwidth issue. Links are down until I can find some place else to host them again.
Edit: I'm currently looking at Google video. They allow unlimited size of upload and storage but they will not be full screen mode , so I should have the links up soon.
https://upload.video.google.com
Edit: I'm currently looking at Google video. They allow unlimited size of upload and storage but they will not be full screen mode , so I should have the links up soon.
https://upload.video.google.com
#61
Originally Posted by JTso
I spent about $2200 on engine performance mods (all bolt-ons external mods). A high flow cat is always a good idea to unleash the potential from a catback system, but don't forget the header is also important. It's difficult to speculate if similar gain can be obtained from a different setup, as I have not seen any independent dyno results from any other catback systems.
#63
Originally Posted by CobaltForge
Thanks for the info JTso. I was actually just wondering how much the custom catback and exhaust cost you (not including the header, etc.). I was thinking about going the header route first. Would you recommend that first vs. the custom high-flow cat & exhaust route?
#66
Couldn't get recompression to work, so here are the vids in original form.
RIGHT CLICK, SAVE TARGET AS. IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS IT USES MUCH MORE BANDWIDTH. THIS IS THE REASON WHY JTSO'S HOSTING CRAPPED OUT.
Nighttime interior clip
0-60 clip
1/4 mile clip
RIGHT CLICK, SAVE TARGET AS. IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS IT USES MUCH MORE BANDWIDTH. THIS IS THE REASON WHY JTSO'S HOSTING CRAPPED OUT.
Nighttime interior clip
0-60 clip
1/4 mile clip
#68
No problem mang.
The reason why I obsess over internal muffler construction is because everything I've read and learned about exhaust systems says that baffled mufflers are really bad for a performance exhaust. The objective of designing a performance catback is to take those pulses from the engine and allow them to flow freely out into the atmosphere without getting too messed up, because if they're left unmolested the rarefaction (low pressure area) behind each compression actually pulls the next compression (high pressure area) down the pipe, just like how intake manifolds and headers work. So when you put a baffled muffler at the end of the pipe, it totally ruins the uniformity of the pulses, so that added advantage is lost.
There will still be benefits of reduced backpressure, but that's only part of the problem (just like with a header). I think the GReddy Evo2 is the only catback to utilize free flowing mufflers.
The reason why I obsess over internal muffler construction is because everything I've read and learned about exhaust systems says that baffled mufflers are really bad for a performance exhaust. The objective of designing a performance catback is to take those pulses from the engine and allow them to flow freely out into the atmosphere without getting too messed up, because if they're left unmolested the rarefaction (low pressure area) behind each compression actually pulls the next compression (high pressure area) down the pipe, just like how intake manifolds and headers work. So when you put a baffled muffler at the end of the pipe, it totally ruins the uniformity of the pulses, so that added advantage is lost.
There will still be benefits of reduced backpressure, but that's only part of the problem (just like with a header). I think the GReddy Evo2 is the only catback to utilize free flowing mufflers.
#69
rmpage, here's an idea for ya. How about utilizing an exhaust cutout device similar to the one below, and place it where the Y pipe is on the TSX. Connect one side to a normal quiet type muffler for normal driving. Connect the other side to a straight through type muffler for performance. The control will be managed by an adjustable pressure/vacuum switch connects to the intake manifold. When the engine hits atmospheric pressure or whatever the adjustment is on the pressure/vacuum switch, the exhaust cutout is energized and routes the exhaust through the straight through muffler. This way the TSX still retains the dual muffler look but with the benefit of a single muffler setup. It would be very easy to do.
Btw, you might need two cutout devices. When one opens, the other closes.
Pressure/Vaccum switches
Btw, you might need two cutout devices. When one opens, the other closes.
Pressure/Vaccum switches
#72
got mine from www.hpautoworks.com ... everything was 714 shipped to jax fl
#73
Originally Posted by JTso
rmpage, here's an idea for ya....
Activation via manifold vacuum would be really kickass though. Such a circuit could be enabled via a dash-mounted switch.
Hmm...
#74
rmpage, this is for you . Perhaps wire it to the DBW circuitry.
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